Linkage bearing removal

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12/16/2017 5:39 PM

Does anybody know on a 08 yz 450 if the linkage you can press out or if there is a shoulder in the middle. Looks like the U shaped part has a shoulder but I cant tell on the smaller L shaped piece.

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12/16/2017 7:29 PM

Can you get a pic to post up? To be safe, you might try a blind bearing puller. Autozone has them in the loan-a-tool program (you buy the tool, use it for up to a certain time-I think 90 Days-then return for a refund).

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12/16/2017 7:43 PM

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12/17/2017 4:48 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/17/2017 4:50 AM

The shock linkage on every Yamaha we've had hasn't had a shoulder, in fact they usually have a single bearing that's the full width rather than two smaller ones. The dog bone link, where it connects to the frame, will have a shoulder.

To remove the bearings from it please use a puller as suggested above. Don't try and knock it out with a punch as I've seen so many of them where people have made a mess doing exactly that. One trophy sat on our 'shelf of mongs' is oval shape where it had been crushed in a vise.

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12/17/2017 6:20 AM

I use a vice and socket as a press. Works like a charm.

Don’t know about your question specifically on this bike. Good luck!

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Washed up moto and enduro weekend warrior.

12/17/2017 7:48 AM

Thanks going over to a buddies house today and see if we can press out with a vice like we did before on a different bike. Im going to be careful. I do have a blind bearing puller on order. Found one on ebay for 36 bucks, may be junk but I cant afford the 250 dollar motion pro one.

Thanks guys for the help, one more question how do you know when when the bearings are bad? I know the one in the dog bone was bad because it was all rusty and all the needles just fell out but the other two looked not bad and looked to have grease in them. But I started trying to clean them and some needles fell out. While putting back in more would fall out. I would put 1 in and 2 would fall out so I said screw it because the new linkage bearing pack comes with these ones. Not sure if they were bad or not tho.

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12/17/2017 8:57 AM

With the bike on a stand lift the back wheel and move it up and down without compressing the suspension. If there is too much movement have someone else grab the wheel and look at all of the points and you'll likely see the movement. If it's too subtle then lightly lever against them with a pry bar. Lightly.

Don't try and clean them as the seals should keep dirt out, just periodically check them and pack grease in if needed. If they're lubricated correctly then the needles should stay in place, if they fall out then there isn't enough grease so they'll be on their way out. They can also fall out if the raceway is broken and the needles are pushing their way out the side of a bearing.

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12/17/2017 5:38 PM

Thanks for that. I knew about lifting the swingarm to see if they are bad. I just was not sure once it is apart how to tell. Thanks for the explanation.

Got the 4 bearings out of the L-shaped link portion by using the socket and vice method came out super easy.

I got the bearing puller on order to get them out of the dog bone. To day we tried using a copper pipe sliced so it will flair out with a threaded rod in the middle of it with a tapered socket on the flaired side. Tried to tighten a nut up against the socket and hammering it out. It did not work.

Just will have to wait a week or so. Ive got liquid wrench in it right now and will be adding more every day for until the puller gets in. Hope to have it out soon.

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12/18/2017 10:38 AM

You can't. You need to apply a load to a bearing to see if there is excessive play.

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12/18/2017 12:53 PM

Thanks I figured that.

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12/18/2017 1:42 PM

I've always use just used a flat head screwdriver or a pinch through the dog bone to the back of the race and it comes right out. Heat the aluminum with a small torch and they typically come out extremely easy as well.

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Race Bike: 2018 KTM 350SXF

Other Bikes: 1985 CR80R, 1990 CR250R, 1998 PW80, Specialized Fuse Comp 29.

Sold: 2016 YZ250F, 2012 CRF250R

12/18/2017 1:54 PM

Thanks for the tip. Kinda did the same thing with no luck. How much heat should I put. If I do too much the bearing will get hot and expand with the aluminum correct? Do you do like 10 sec or 1 min? I have a propane torch

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12/18/2017 8:02 PM

I'm pretty sure you can press them through the u-shaped piece. Curious to what you find out when you pull them.

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12/19/2017 6:33 AM

In the Yamaha manual it shows a shoulder. My puller should be in in three days well see how it goes.

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12/19/2017 1:55 PM

Get it HOT. I torched mine for at least a minute. The Aluminum case expands at a higher rate than the steel bearing races. They came out pretty easily using heat.

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Race Bike: 2018 KTM 350SXF

Other Bikes: 1985 CR80R, 1990 CR250R, 1998 PW80, Specialized Fuse Comp 29.

Sold: 2016 YZ250F, 2012 CRF250R

12/19/2017 2:40 PM

Thanks for the Tip Ill get it hot then. Was not sure what the trick was with that. I think I'm gonna wait for my puller before I destroy the race lip.

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12/19/2017 3:49 PM

I’m going through this as well. Haven’t had any luck with heat and a punch. Thinking of trying these kind of like that race remover tool. Or maybe one of the wall anchor bolts that can snug into the bearing so I can pop it out. What a pita these are

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12/19/2017 4:02 PM

For pity's sake, they're easy to remove. Don't use a punch or heat to remove them, use the correct damned tool for the job.

Tool

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12/19/2017 5:26 PM

I got my tool coming in the 22nd so I hope that will work. May need a little heat also.

Pirate eBay has the pullers for 36 bucks free shipping I'll let you know the quality and how it works. Motion pros are 250 way too much

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12/19/2017 6:51 PM

Mr Happy wrote:

For pity's sake, they're easy to remove. Don't use a punch or heat to remove them, use the correct damned tool for the job.

Tool

Is a blind bearing remover the correct tool to use? Honestly, because I’ll buy one if it is, don’t want to mess up my linkage arm because they are nla.

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12/20/2017 8:02 AM

I am pretty sure it is. Or as correct as it will get.

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12/20/2017 3:02 PM

I use a carbide cutter in an air tool, cutting on an angle. Makes a huge “pop” when it’s done, falls right out. Granted, I have tools the average guy might not, because I fix my own rigs, but it does work very nicely.

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12/21/2017 9:10 AM

Tusk bearing puller is a lot chepaer than $250. I have one, and I used it one time so far, and it worked well.

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12/21/2017 9:21 AM

Says 94 bucks for the set. Ill give the 36 dollar one a try first.

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12/21/2017 10:31 AM

Do you have a link to the eBay one?

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12/21/2017 10:35 AM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9PCS-Blind-Hole-Slide-Hammer-Pilot-Bearing-Puller-Internal-Extractor-Removal-Kit/401214599326?epid=878366447&hash=item5d6a40f09e:g:zrQAAOSw8-xZzooC

this is the one I bought may be junk but we will see. Had to take the chance for the price. Probably harbor freight quality.
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12/21/2017 5:09 PM

Update- my tool came in today so I left work early to work on the bike. Put the tool together and heated the dog bone up and got to hammering. Right away it moved a tad. But then nothing. More heat more hammering and nothing. Ran out of propane so went to get more. Came back tons of heat and nothing.

Then I decided to take the slide hammer off and keep the expanding piece in it and put the old pin from the bearings in from the other side and use a real hammer to pound the pin into the expandable piece. Got them both out with about 15-20 wacks. I will say the slide hammer may have worked if I had a vice but I dont have one. That is the next tool on the list. Not sure how I made it this far without one.

The quality seemed fine on this tool cheap but worked fine for the few times I will use it.

Thanks guys for all the help but my bearings may have been a tad more stuck than normal.

I will say be careful with your hand I got a nice blood blister when I pinched it between the hammer and the end.

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12/21/2017 5:14 PM

lcgordon711 wrote: https://www.ebay.com/itm/9PCS-Blind-Hole-Slide-Hammer-Pilot-Bearing-Puller-Internal-Extractor-Removal-Kit/401214599326?epid=878366447&hash=item5d6a40f09e:g:zrQAAOSw8-xZzooC

this is the one I bought may be junk but we will see. Had to take the chance for the price. Probably harbor freight quality.

I have that set. It's saved me a few times.
I haven't had any issues with it.
Hopefully you've checked the size pieces and there's a match for your particular application.

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"Nothing happens until something moves"

12/21/2017 7:32 PM

lcgordon711 wrote:

Update- my tool came in today so I left work early to work on the bike. Put the tool together and heated the dog bone up and got to hammering. Right away it moved a tad. But then nothing. More heat more hammering and nothing. Ran out of propane so went to get more. Came back tons of heat and nothing.

Then I decided to take the slide hammer off and keep the expanding piece in it and put the old pin from the bearings in from the other side and use a real hammer to pound the pin into the expandable piece. Got them both out with about 15-20 wacks. I will say the slide hammer may have worked if I had a vice but I dont have one. That is the next tool on the list. Not sure how I made it this far without one.

The quality seemed fine on this tool cheap but worked fine for the few times I will use it.

Thanks guys for all the help but my bearings may have been a tad more stuck than normal.

I will say be careful with your hand I got a nice blood blister when I pinched it between the hammer and the end.

So is it smooth all the way through? I swear I pushed them through with a vice and sockets, no lip. Then again it's on an 09 Yz250f.

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12/21/2017 8:51 PM

That set looks like the Tusk one pretty much.

Good job on getting it out. Use anti-seize on the new ones.

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