Posts
6161
Joined
1/31/2018
Location
Mansfield, OH
US
Thought id try here one last time before cutting my losses and getting rid of this bike. Currently it starts and runs as long as you want. Once its hot and you turn it off it wont restart till it cools. Ive had the bike randomly die on me a couple times after its hot too. Ive replaced about half the electronics on it.
Replaced parts:
Main harness(not the harness that goes to the throttle body sensors and temp sensors)
Ecu
Coil
Spark plug cap
Spark plug
Kill switch
Capacitor
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump
Spark plug is dry when i pull it out and the tip is tan.
So far the stator ohms okay. .5/.6 is where the leads are when its hot. Manuals range is .5-1.1 ohms.
My plan is to fix this bike and sell it. For whatever reason its been absolutely terrible all year. Any help or guidence is appreciated. My kawi dealer is even lost.
Replaced parts:
Main harness(not the harness that goes to the throttle body sensors and temp sensors)
Ecu
Coil
Spark plug cap
Spark plug
Kill switch
Capacitor
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump
Spark plug is dry when i pull it out and the tip is tan.
So far the stator ohms okay. .5/.6 is where the leads are when its hot. Manuals range is .5-1.1 ohms.
My plan is to fix this bike and sell it. For whatever reason its been absolutely terrible all year. Any help or guidence is appreciated. My kawi dealer is even lost.
So what now? I have stainless valves from prox. Will lapping the valves fix my problem? Worth a try? I know you cant lap titanium but wasnt sure about stainless.
I was thinking the same thing too. I either have a defective head or valves or maybe carbon is holding it open.
I rebuilt a kx250f about the same time with the same parts but didnt run into any issues like this.
Also, my dumbass had tdc off by 180 degrees causing it to read 80%. Cold leakage is 20% at the correct tdc. Thats still high though. 5-10% is what ive always been told is good
The Shop
Were new valve guides installed?
Were new seals installed?
You can't lap those valves.
Paw Paw
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