Posts
6161
Joined
1/31/2018
Location
Mansfield, OH
US
kb228
5/30/2018 3:58pm
5/30/2018 3:58pm
Edited Date/Time
6/9/2018 3:02pm
Finally got my bike back from the shop - its been 5 weeks and the guy couldnt figure it out. Bike will run and turn off like you hit the kill switch.
Ive done ohm & continuity tests on the stator, kill switch, @ crankshaft sensor. All checked good. No shorts or anything. Have a new fuel pump & tip over sensor - those should be good.
Next i started checking for spark, and i noticed it took about 20 kicks to get the spark tester to light up. After the kicks it would spark strong everytime.
Any ideas? Weak stator? Bad capacitor? Whatever it is seems like its not strong enough to get a fast charge & hold it for the bike to run.
Ive done ohm & continuity tests on the stator, kill switch, @ crankshaft sensor. All checked good. No shorts or anything. Have a new fuel pump & tip over sensor - those should be good.
Next i started checking for spark, and i noticed it took about 20 kicks to get the spark tester to light up. After the kicks it would spark strong everytime.
Any ideas? Weak stator? Bad capacitor? Whatever it is seems like its not strong enough to get a fast charge & hold it for the bike to run.
Paw Paw
If still a problem, borrow a friends ecu. I had a stock one go bad on a 18 recently that intermittently worked.
Ill have to go get a 12v bike battery from walmart tomorrow. Looks like ill need to make up some harnesses with alligator clips to measure all of the input/output voltages. I definitely want to rule out all of the sensors before i buy an ecu
The Shop
Service manual says 1.13k ohms at 104 degrees.
Edit: after heating the sensor to 104F, it reads 1.20 k ohms. Manual calls out a tolerance of 0.095 k ohms. Should be in spec
My readings:
Primary: .8 ohms
Secondary: 13.78 k ohms
Kawi spec:
Primary resistence: .28-.38 ohms
Secondary resistence: 7.65-10.35 k ohms
Tomorrow at work ill have our electrician confirm this as a bad coil. Hes got killer tools.
Paw Paw
My service manual is saying if theyres ignition coil trouble, it will shut off the coil.
That would explain why the bike dies as if you hit the kill switch. Also explains why theres no spark until you kick it a lot.
With the added resistence, theres not enough voltage in the capacitor to provide a spark. And since heat seems to raise the resistence, it only gets worse until it shuts off or the capacitor is out of juice.. sorry random thinking. Likely will order a new cap & coil tomorrow.
Paw Paw
Paw Paw
Have a question to run by you guys. I havent been in a position where ive had cam chain guide wear issues before. Right now the guide on the intake side is visibly worn. Ive noticed that the chain is hitting the cylinder head up by the gasket surface. Either the guide is flexing & allowing the chain to get loose(as shown by the dark marking on the wall of the head) or the tensioner is weak. Im replacing the guide, chain, and tensioner regardless, but would like some input just to learn. Can a bad guide cause stalling issues or am i trying to blame the motor?Pics below of the guide & where the chain hits the head.
Having this misfire/stalling issue happen all the sudden(on a jump landing), i would have never guessed the plug on the ecu. It only came to mind after desperately going through every inch of wire and plug, and checking all the sensors.
The bike was at the shop for 5 weeks. Ive had it back for almost 2 now. Had a TON of time to learn about electrical diagnostics and all that
Post a reply to: Kx450 ignition probs SOLVED