Katoom 85/105

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2/18/2018 11:57 AM

Hi all, looking for a little edumacation on 85/105s (and the newer Husky's I guess). Basically, I'm looking for a used one for my wife, early in the search for sure but I'm kind of between a higher hour (but reasonably well maintained) 2012 SXS and a 2017 Husky with about 20 hours on it. Either will get 19/16 wheels, and maybe a 105 cylinder. Any weak links I should be looking for? I know some of them had crank issues, not sure which years though. Any spots on the frame or anything like that to look for?


2/20/2018 11:15 AM

13+ is a different bike with only a couple updates until the new ones came out in '18. The 13-17 are excellent bikes and I would choose one over a 12-older no question. You can find them cheap since the 18's came out.

Crank issues were more prevalent in the 12-older due to design but even the newer ones can burn big end bearings if not set up correctly. KTMtalk has a ton of threads on it. We run the hell out of ours and love them. Very easy to work on & parts are relatively cheap...........


2/20/2018 4:19 PM

^^agree. Get a newer one and avoid the pre 12 models


2/20/2018 7:51 PM

I have built a couple of superminis for a customer, one '14 and one '16. The KTM 105 kit is nice and will cause zero problems. These bikes still need the rod bearing replaced sooner than others. The 105 kit makes pretty good power for a bolt on kit. I had really good luck with Faster USA wheels on both of those bikes.


2/20/2018 9:21 PM

Thanks for the replies! Think I'll take everybody's advice and go for the '17. I'll have to read up on the rod bearings but I'm not overly concerned at this point with the newer one, anyway. I'll probably let her try out the bike before going for the 105 kit, but she's used to a bit of low-end, so I think I'll be doing that sooner rather than later. I'll check out the Faster wheels as well-they're not as pricey as I'd thought, turns out. Anything else I should keep an eye on or any setup tips?

Thanks again, everyone!


2/21/2018 2:22 PM

r_outsider wrote:

Thanks for the replies! Think I'll take everybody's advice and go for the '17. I'll have to read up on the rod bearings but ...more

If you need to replace main bearings switch LH to a caged ball bearing instead of roller.
Use ProX connecting rods& stock crank if needed to rebuild - NO HOT RODS!!!
Buy Nihilo decking tool so setting top ends is easy - deck/timing/PV setting
When replacing pistons use Vertex and buy a few different sizes of base gaskets to set final deck height/squish
18+ front fender and number plate bolt right on for slightly updated look.
Maxima MTL75 in transmission for best clutch feel & life. Common for clutch to not disengage all the way on these
be careful installing air filter as they can go in wrong and suck air.
Jetting base around see level we found works best-
118 main
42 pilot
HH Needle (leaner than stock) in 2nd clip
1.5 on Air screw
Keep extra rear brake pads around and keep an eye on pedal setting
I shim LH of swingarm to frame gap but it's not imperative.

They are very good bikes my boy rides hard and I am a maintenance freak so all above may not be necessary just off top of head a few things I can think of.............


2/21/2018 8:37 PM

Thanks for all that. I'm saving all that for future reference.

Funny enough, I went to check out the used '17 at the dealer, the kid in the back pulled the wrong bike from storage.A leftover '17 that wasn't advertised. $500 more than the used one and we start the year with a new TC 85? Sold. Pick it up Friday, we'll get setting it up ASAP. Should last her a while.