125/150/250/300 KTM/HUS/GG jetting thread

5/25/2021 3:08pm
Great thread! I have a 2017 ktm 125 xcw and have struggled with getting the jetting right. My current settings are
Base gasket replaced
32.5 pj
As1.5
Jd blue needle on clip pos 5.5
Mj 460
Slide 4
Nj R8
99 octane fuel 60:1
This seems to work well but I am going to try the settings digger and aj have recommended, I am in the uk with temps around 15c at sea level full hgs. What are people setting their float height to? And are the settings recommended by aj and digger still a good starting point for me? Thanks again to everyone on this thread 👍
dave_daum
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5/25/2021 3:20pm
Great thread! I have a 2017 ktm 125 xcw and have struggled with getting the jetting right. My current settings are Base gasket replaced 32.5 pj...
Great thread! I have a 2017 ktm 125 xcw and have struggled with getting the jetting right. My current settings are
Base gasket replaced
32.5 pj
As1.5
Jd blue needle on clip pos 5.5
Mj 460
Slide 4
Nj R8
99 octane fuel 60:1
This seems to work well but I am going to try the settings digger and aj have recommended, I am in the uk with temps around 15c at sea level full hgs. What are people setting their float height to? And are the settings recommended by aj and digger still a good starting point for me? Thanks again to everyone on this thread 👍
Check the air vent hose on the gas cap. Blow through it to make sure you don't have a vapor lock.
5/26/2021 12:53am
No that’s fine that is, like I said it runs well with those settings, jd recommend 4.5 on the needle for my bike so I’ve had to go 1 and a half clips richer to make it run right it was more of question of where people are setting there float height and would the settings digger and aj recommend still be a good starting point for my scenario, thanks again

The Shop

AJ565
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5/26/2021 7:15am
No that’s fine that is, like I said it runs well with those settings, jd recommend 4.5 on the needle for my bike so I’ve had...
No that’s fine that is, like I said it runs well with those settings, jd recommend 4.5 on the needle for my bike so I’ve had to go 1 and a half clips richer to make it run right it was more of question of where people are setting there float height and would the settings digger and aj recommend still be a good starting point for my scenario, thanks again
All of my testing has been with MX, it should be a solid start for you tho. You didn’t say what problems you’re having with your current setup tho as everyone seems pretty happy with the settings so far. There has been a few guys that have needed bigger main jets tho so keep that in mind when ordering extra jets.
5/26/2021 10:50am
If I was being picky with my setup it’s if I crack the throttle open I can bog it out (lean bog) but if I was to go leaner on the needle or pilot it would be over rich, thanks for the reply, I’ll try the settings you suggest and get back to you 👍
JT227
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5/26/2021 11:14am
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to test AJ’s setups, but before that I’d want to ask if anyone have tested these setups with HGS pipe and silencer? Or do you guys believe these setups will be suitable also with HGS? I have stock engine with HGS pipe, 500 main jet, 37,5 pilot, richer stock needle(I’ll check the number) stock slide and stock needle jet on my tc250 2020. I’m riding only on sea level. It’s cold here in Finland so it’s usually something 5-15°C (30°-40°F) warm when I’m riding. Our pump gas is 98oct (RON 98,8 / MON) 87,6) and it has about 2% of oxygen.

I feel my bike runs a lot better that stock, but I’m not very good at these things, so maybe you can help me? As I said I’d like to test AJ’s setups,if you believe those runs well also in here?

I hope you understand my bad english. Thank you guys!
AJ565
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5/26/2021 11:28am
JT227 wrote:
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to...
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to test AJ’s setups, but before that I’d want to ask if anyone have tested these setups with HGS pipe and silencer? Or do you guys believe these setups will be suitable also with HGS? I have stock engine with HGS pipe, 500 main jet, 37,5 pilot, richer stock needle(I’ll check the number) stock slide and stock needle jet on my tc250 2020. I’m riding only on sea level. It’s cold here in Finland so it’s usually something 5-15°C (30°-40°F) warm when I’m riding. Our pump gas is 98oct (RON 98,8 / MON) 87,6) and it has about 2% of oxygen.

I feel my bike runs a lot better that stock, but I’m not very good at these things, so maybe you can help me? As I said I’d like to test AJ’s setups,if you believe those runs well also in here?

I hope you understand my bad english. Thank you guys!
Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more bottom go with a shorty like the 304. I don’t know anyone running a HGS pipe or even a FMF around here. On the ‘18’s (which is the same as the ‘20’s) the PC pipe picked up a little over 1hp from stock taking it from 47.xx to 49.xx
1
JT227
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5/26/2021 11:35am
JT227 wrote:
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to...
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to test AJ’s setups, but before that I’d want to ask if anyone have tested these setups with HGS pipe and silencer? Or do you guys believe these setups will be suitable also with HGS? I have stock engine with HGS pipe, 500 main jet, 37,5 pilot, richer stock needle(I’ll check the number) stock slide and stock needle jet on my tc250 2020. I’m riding only on sea level. It’s cold here in Finland so it’s usually something 5-15°C (30°-40°F) warm when I’m riding. Our pump gas is 98oct (RON 98,8 / MON) 87,6) and it has about 2% of oxygen.

I feel my bike runs a lot better that stock, but I’m not very good at these things, so maybe you can help me? As I said I’d like to test AJ’s setups,if you believe those runs well also in here?

I hope you understand my bad english. Thank you guys!
AJ565 wrote:
Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more...
Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more bottom go with a shorty like the 304. I don’t know anyone running a HGS pipe or even a FMF around here. On the ‘18’s (which is the same as the ‘20’s) the PC pipe picked up a little over 1hp from stock taking it from 47.xx to 49.xx
Thank you AJ Smile

I will make it a little richer than your setup and see if it feels too rich. I think it’s colder and more oxygen rich in here, so believe it is better to start with rich setup.

I’ve been thinking to chance my pipe for PC, but it is a little bit difficult to buy in here.
StevenMX
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5/26/2021 11:38am
JT227 wrote:
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to...
Hello guys! I’ve been reading through this topic but I did not find coversation about how pipe and silencer affects for carb setups? I’d like to test AJ’s setups, but before that I’d want to ask if anyone have tested these setups with HGS pipe and silencer? Or do you guys believe these setups will be suitable also with HGS? I have stock engine with HGS pipe, 500 main jet, 37,5 pilot, richer stock needle(I’ll check the number) stock slide and stock needle jet on my tc250 2020. I’m riding only on sea level. It’s cold here in Finland so it’s usually something 5-15°C (30°-40°F) warm when I’m riding. Our pump gas is 98oct (RON 98,8 / MON) 87,6) and it has about 2% of oxygen.

I feel my bike runs a lot better that stock, but I’m not very good at these things, so maybe you can help me? As I said I’d like to test AJ’s setups,if you believe those runs well also in here?

I hope you understand my bad english. Thank you guys!
AJ565 wrote:
Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more...
Pipe and silencer didn’t change my jetting. I run a PC pipe and the long silencer for more top end over rev. If you want/need more bottom go with a shorty like the 304. I don’t know anyone running a HGS pipe or even a FMF around here. On the ‘18’s (which is the same as the ‘20’s) the PC pipe picked up a little over 1hp from stock taking it from 47.xx to 49.xx
To add to the data set...

I managed to ding my stock pipe so I am now running the FMF Fatty Series with FMF Turbincore 2 silencer... my jetting is exactly as AJ's from the front page (main, pilot, slide, etc.) The FMF Fatty smoothed out the bottom end but still kept that awesome pull up and through the top end. I balanced it by running the vented cover (I was given both) to lean it out a touch and it gave that bottom end kick back Smile .

This is on the 2021 KTM 250sx.. runs beautifully on the motocross tracks up here in PNW in temps 45-80F so far at 0-1,000ft tested.

2
JT227
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5/26/2021 11:01pm
StevenMX wrote:
To add to the data set... I managed to ding my stock pipe so I am now running the FMF Fatty Series with FMF Turbincore 2...
To add to the data set...

I managed to ding my stock pipe so I am now running the FMF Fatty Series with FMF Turbincore 2 silencer... my jetting is exactly as AJ's from the front page (main, pilot, slide, etc.) The FMF Fatty smoothed out the bottom end but still kept that awesome pull up and through the top end. I balanced it by running the vented cover (I was given both) to lean it out a touch and it gave that bottom end kick back Smile .

This is on the 2021 KTM 250sx.. runs beautifully on the motocross tracks up here in PNW in temps 45-80F so far at 0-1,000ft tested.

Thank you StevenMX. Good to hear that that setup works well also with fatty and on those altitudes and temperatures. Excited to try it out and see how it works. Thank you guys!

I've been planning to add 300cc kit and change the pipe for FMF or PC, but before that, I'd want to make that 250 HGS setup run as good as possible. I'm mostly riding MX, but I also ride in forests and some more difficult areas, so I'm mostly looking for stronger bottom end and easier handling. More top end and over-rev are also welcome, but the most important thing is to improve tight corners and other slow speed areas.
swatdoc
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5/28/2021 5:12pm
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2 strokes, and already has premix oil at 40:1 . With C12 you have to still buy premix oil. And since it's slightly oxygenated, shouldn't T2 make a tad bit more power?
AJ565
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5/29/2021 9:21am
swatdoc wrote:
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2...
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2 strokes, and already has premix oil at 40:1 . With C12 you have to still buy premix oil. And since it's slightly oxygenated, shouldn't T2 make a tad bit more power?
I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the cheapest and T2 was about $20 more. u4.4 is just over $100 with tax at most of the bike shops local. There was a shop that sadly went out of business that I’d buy my fuel from and was getting any of them for $65/5 gal so I ran u4.4 which made the most power. My original jetting was developed with C12 because that’s what I had when I got the bike and most people seem to run that over the oxygenated fuels.

Interesting thing to note that I learned with fuel testing, 10% ethanol pump would cause a rattle noise at higher RPM with a very light load on it. I’m not sure it it was a knock or a piston flutter hitting the cylinder walls, but I went back to ethanol free and it went away. I had my buddy try the same fuel and he also noted the same noise in his bike. That could be the pipe bang that some people talk about.
DuroTools
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5/29/2021 3:31pm
Great thread! I have a 2017 ktm 125 xcw and have struggled with getting the jetting right. My current settings are Base gasket replaced 32.5 pj...
Great thread! I have a 2017 ktm 125 xcw and have struggled with getting the jetting right. My current settings are
Base gasket replaced
32.5 pj
As1.5
Jd blue needle on clip pos 5.5
Mj 460
Slide 4
Nj R8
99 octane fuel 60:1
This seems to work well but I am going to try the settings digger and aj have recommended, I am in the uk with temps around 15c at sea level full hgs. What are people setting their float height to? And are the settings recommended by aj and digger still a good starting point for me? Thanks again to everyone on this thread 👍
dave_daum wrote:
Check the air vent hose on the gas cap. Blow through it to make sure you don't have a vapor lock.
I just took the ball bearing out of my cap cause I was having weird issues with random bogging to the point of almost stalling out of the blue, if I'm riding moto do I really need this or should I put it back?
swatdoc
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5/30/2021 9:20am
swatdoc wrote:
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2...
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2 strokes, and already has premix oil at 40:1 . With C12 you have to still buy premix oil. And since it's slightly oxygenated, shouldn't T2 make a tad bit more power?
AJ565 wrote:
I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the...
I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the cheapest and T2 was about $20 more. u4.4 is just over $100 with tax at most of the bike shops local. There was a shop that sadly went out of business that I’d buy my fuel from and was getting any of them for $65/5 gal so I ran u4.4 which made the most power. My original jetting was developed with C12 because that’s what I had when I got the bike and most people seem to run that over the oxygenated fuels.

Interesting thing to note that I learned with fuel testing, 10% ethanol pump would cause a rattle noise at higher RPM with a very light load on it. I’m not sure it it was a knock or a piston flutter hitting the cylinder walls, but I went back to ethanol free and it went away. I had my buddy try the same fuel and he also noted the same noise in his bike. That could be the pipe bang that some people talk about.
I would probably go ethanol free pump too - but there's nothing even remotely close to where I am in SoCal. So if I want ethanol free gas, it's gotta be VP for me, which I can get 5 minutes away from me at the local bike shop. So I'll probably just go with T2
AJ565
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5/30/2021 11:07am
swatdoc wrote:
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2...
AJ - was curious why you go with C12 instead of T2? Where I'm at they're roughly the same price. T2 is more for modern 2 strokes, and already has premix oil at 40:1 . With C12 you have to still buy premix oil. And since it's slightly oxygenated, shouldn't T2 make a tad bit more power?
AJ565 wrote:
I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the...
I currently run ethanol free pump gas actually. I’ve run T2, C12, pump with 10% ethanol, ethanol free pump, and u4.4. Around here C12 is the cheapest and T2 was about $20 more. u4.4 is just over $100 with tax at most of the bike shops local. There was a shop that sadly went out of business that I’d buy my fuel from and was getting any of them for $65/5 gal so I ran u4.4 which made the most power. My original jetting was developed with C12 because that’s what I had when I got the bike and most people seem to run that over the oxygenated fuels.

Interesting thing to note that I learned with fuel testing, 10% ethanol pump would cause a rattle noise at higher RPM with a very light load on it. I’m not sure it it was a knock or a piston flutter hitting the cylinder walls, but I went back to ethanol free and it went away. I had my buddy try the same fuel and he also noted the same noise in his bike. That could be the pipe bang that some people talk about.
swatdoc wrote:
I would probably go ethanol free pump too - but there's nothing even remotely close to where I am in SoCal. So if I want ethanol...
I would probably go ethanol free pump too - but there's nothing even remotely close to where I am in SoCal. So if I want ethanol free gas, it's gotta be VP for me, which I can get 5 minutes away from me at the local bike shop. So I'll probably just go with T2
I liked T2, but it was the same price as u4.4 so it was a no brained to run that. On a budget pump and C12 are a good option, which is why I have it on there.
1
5/31/2021 7:44am Edited Date/Time 5/31/2021 7:48am
Headed out to Nemo, SD later this week, gonna try the following setup in my 17 150xcw for the elevation change... Will report back if anyone cares to know Smile

Mikuni TMX 38
5.0 Slide
S4 needle jet
42-74 needle
clip 2
30 pilot
2-2.5 AS
470 Main
1.75 turns PV adjuster (from fully CCW) (Yellow spring)
91 pump ethanol free
either Motul 710 or Klotz TCW3 (Kl-302) @40:1

Temps are looking to be between 60-90F @4,500 or so
swatdoc
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6/1/2021 10:37am Edited Date/Time 6/1/2021 10:37am
I noticed on VHM's website that they offer an "inertia" crank. I think that's just their word for 'it's heavier" - like having a flywheel weight. Has anyone here tried a flywheel weight on their 150? Maybe that would help smooth out and broaden the powerband also?
Bruce372
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6/1/2021 2:17pm
swatdoc wrote:
I noticed on VHM's website that they offer an "inertia" crank. I think that's just their word for 'it's heavier" - like having a flywheel weight...
I noticed on VHM's website that they offer an "inertia" crank. I think that's just their word for 'it's heavier" - like having a flywheel weight. Has anyone here tried a flywheel weight on their 150? Maybe that would help smooth out and broaden the powerband also?
Have you ridden the bike yet?
swatdoc
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6/1/2021 2:44pm
Not yet Bruce - it’s a ‘22 - waiting for it to come in at the dealer. Doing my research now and buying some parts in advance. Building the bike is part of the fun for me
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Bruce372
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6/2/2021 2:12pm
swatdoc wrote:
Not yet Bruce - it’s a ‘22 - waiting for it to come in at the dealer. Doing my research now and buying some parts in...
Not yet Bruce - it’s a ‘22 - waiting for it to come in at the dealer. Doing my research now and buying some parts in advance. Building the bike is part of the fun for me
Good stuff, I wasn't trying to be negative, just don't over think it too much. These bikes are so fricken good to begin with and stuff like Vforce and pipes and silencers have often shown on the dyno to either do nothing or make it worse. Plus, in my experience so many aftermarket parts don't fit perfect and can lead to more frustration.

Once you get the mikuni dialed, it's a tremendously good ride and experience, just amazing clean and crisp running.

The STIC is either different or an improvement depending on how you look at things... certainly a much different riding experience.

As for porting and head mods, definitely ride the bike for a baseline. Quite often, it just moves the power vs increasing jt... this is where the dyno is key, so hopefully you can find a tuner with a validated setup.

I agree with you on building the bike is part of the fun, but so many times it's taken away some of the fun as well messing around with stuff that doesn't fit or work as perfectly as advertised. So insane these bikes stock blow away any of the Japanese 125s
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swatdoc
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6/4/2021 2:17pm Edited Date/Time 6/4/2021 2:20pm
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from JD Jetting today, so might take those to the track and try them out as long as it's not too windy and dusty

Moving around the power might be a good thing - instead of a big midrange hit and then falling off, a smoother, wider, more linear powerband might be just the ticket I'm looking for. Like you say, gonna ride it as is, with just the stock carb mods first and go from there. It is fun to experiment though
1
dsk360
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6/7/2021 12:07pm
Hey AJ I've been following this thread for awhile and first off want to say thank you for all the great info. I've made quite a few changes to my jetting based on what I read here. Currently I'm sitting at 42-71 needle in the 2nd clip, pilot 30, main 480, and the air screw at 2 out. I did switch to the #5 slide that I notched. I run ethanol free gas and ride at about 700 feet above sea level in Michigan. Last weekend it was in the high 80s. After a tight woods section the bike would bobble when I got out for a second or two then clean up and run good. Am I to lean? Or what should I change to help this? It also seemed like it loaded up at the gas stop and took about 200 yards to clean up and run good again.
romain524
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6/7/2021 12:43pm
swatdoc wrote:
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from...
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from JD Jetting today, so might take those to the track and try them out as long as it's not too windy and dusty

Moving around the power might be a good thing - instead of a big midrange hit and then falling off, a smoother, wider, more linear powerband might be just the ticket I'm looking for. Like you say, gonna ride it as is, with just the stock carb mods first and go from there. It is fun to experiment though
Did you ride the bike yesterday?
swatdoc
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6/7/2021 12:49pm Edited Date/Time 6/7/2021 12:50pm
swatdoc wrote:
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from...
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from JD Jetting today, so might take those to the track and try them out as long as it's not too windy and dusty

Moving around the power might be a good thing - instead of a big midrange hit and then falling off, a smoother, wider, more linear powerband might be just the ticket I'm looking for. Like you say, gonna ride it as is, with just the stock carb mods first and go from there. It is fun to experiment though
romain524 wrote:
Did you ride the bike yesterday?
Yep - took it out to Glen Helen on the REM track. It actually ran great right out of the box. I did have the FMF Fatty and PC shorty on it. No jetting changes at all. I’m curious if KTM changed the jets for 2022. Rear suspension beat me up though. I really need a revalve. The track got really chopped out and the acceleration and braking bumps were killing my back. Now I just need to ride a lot to get into shape. Bike was a lot of fun though. It’s fun to be riding again
3
AJ565
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6/7/2021 7:12pm
dsk360 wrote:
Hey AJ I've been following this thread for awhile and first off want to say thank you for all the great info. I've made quite a...
Hey AJ I've been following this thread for awhile and first off want to say thank you for all the great info. I've made quite a few changes to my jetting based on what I read here. Currently I'm sitting at 42-71 needle in the 2nd clip, pilot 30, main 480, and the air screw at 2 out. I did switch to the #5 slide that I notched. I run ethanol free gas and ride at about 700 feet above sea level in Michigan. Last weekend it was in the high 80s. After a tight woods section the bike would bobble when I got out for a second or two then clean up and run good. Am I to lean? Or what should I change to help this? It also seemed like it loaded up at the gas stop and took about 200 yards to clean up and run good again.
What bike? That’s the wrong needle for sure and is more then likely your problem. They seem pretty picky on having the wrong needle in it and even a half clip position makes a big difference.
AJ565
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6/7/2021 7:14pm
swatdoc wrote:
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from...
Picking up my bike tomorrow. Probably break it in at Glen Helen on sunday. As luck would have it, got all the carb parts in from JD Jetting today, so might take those to the track and try them out as long as it's not too windy and dusty

Moving around the power might be a good thing - instead of a big midrange hit and then falling off, a smoother, wider, more linear powerband might be just the ticket I'm looking for. Like you say, gonna ride it as is, with just the stock carb mods first and go from there. It is fun to experiment though
romain524 wrote:
Did you ride the bike yesterday?
swatdoc wrote:
Yep - took it out to Glen Helen on the REM track. It actually ran great right out of the box. I did have the FMF...
Yep - took it out to Glen Helen on the REM track. It actually ran great right out of the box. I did have the FMF Fatty and PC shorty on it. No jetting changes at all. I’m curious if KTM changed the jets for 2022. Rear suspension beat me up though. I really need a revalve. The track got really chopped out and the acceleration and braking bumps were killing my back. Now I just need to ride a lot to get into shape. Bike was a lot of fun though. It’s fun to be riding again
Speed up the rear rebound (try 3-4 clicks out) the rear likes to pack up with the stock settings.
swatdoc
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6/7/2021 7:41pm
I’ll definitely try that. Thanks AJ

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