125/150/250/300 KTM/HUS/GG jetting thread

FGR01
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3/29/2021 11:59am
StevenMX wrote:
From motocross mag... [url=https://motocrossactionmag.com/this-much-we-know-making-the-most-of-the-power-valve-on-your-ktm-250300-two-stroke/]Motocross source[/url] "(1) Preload. The main power-valve spring can be preloaded by turning the Allen head adjuster in the center of the power-valve...
From motocross mag... Motocross source

"(1) Preload. The main power-valve spring can be preloaded by turning the Allen head adjuster in the center of the power-valve spring cap. The stock spring preload is set at the factory to allow the power-valve flapper to open at 5600 rpm. If you turn the Allen head adjuster one turn out (counterclockwise), the power valve will open 150 rpm sooner (at 5450 rpm). If you turn it in a full turn (clockwise), the power valve will open 150 rpm later (at 5750 rpm). The longer the power-valve flapper is closed, the harder the power will hit?because it will have built up more rpm. Most MXA test riders run the stock 5600 rpm setting. There is one caveat, though: once you change the power-valve adjuster setting, you have to count turns to keep track of where the stock setting was."


This leads me to believe that even with tight tolerances... there might be some variances from bike-to-bike, given that lets say the 1 additional turn adjusts the range roughly 150rpms either direction per turn. So if you had those 3 ktm 85s within 2 turns deviation, you are talking about 300rpm variance at 5600rpms. That is a delta of ~5% when tuning to that specific rpm. I'm just speculating of course with the information I can find, but I imagine they do tune these as they do run them at the factory before delivery.
You could be absolutely right. Sounds reasonable that they'd fine tune each bike on the dyno as they come off the assembly line. It makes perfect sense that a system that relies on balls, ramps, springs, and a threaded preload adjuster is not going to be exactly consistent across bikes. Case in point, when we speak of adjusting preload on our rear shocks, we don't tell someone to back the adjuster all the way off and then go x-turns in from there, say, for example, 4.5 turns for 180 lbs. No, instead we measure the output and say go wherever you need to go to get 105mm of sag.

Out of curiosity I just measured the "stock" setting on my TC125 and it is 3.5 turns in from all the way out. I'll try the recommended 1.75 in this thread and see what the change is.
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Rickyisms
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3/29/2021 1:36pm
Rickyisms wrote:
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but...
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but other than that runs fine. Going to see how the oxygenated fuel messes with it and then go from there.
Bruce372 wrote:
2018 is pretty close stock. Use the 32.5 pilot, 490 main and stock needle 2 or 3 and no need to change the s4 nozzle in...
2018 is pretty close stock.

Use the 32.5 pilot, 490 main and stock needle 2 or 3 and no need to change the s4 nozzle in there.

You could cut the slide slightly, I did my own and also tried the oem 5 slide and the 5 slide was a little too lean.

I don't see massive changes with the T2 fuel.

I've got a fresh can at home i will try soon but I can't see me making big carb changes based on experience.

The silencer is critical on the 150 and many more restricted silencers can mess up the jetting.

Pc shorty or stock.
I run a full PC setup on my 16 125 and 150. This is a friends bike, only mod is a FMF turbinecore spark arrestor for our harescramble series.
StevenMX
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3/29/2021 1:51pm
FGR01 wrote:
You could be absolutely right. Sounds reasonable that they'd fine tune each bike on the dyno as they come off the assembly line. It makes perfect...
You could be absolutely right. Sounds reasonable that they'd fine tune each bike on the dyno as they come off the assembly line. It makes perfect sense that a system that relies on balls, ramps, springs, and a threaded preload adjuster is not going to be exactly consistent across bikes. Case in point, when we speak of adjusting preload on our rear shocks, we don't tell someone to back the adjuster all the way off and then go x-turns in from there, say, for example, 4.5 turns for 180 lbs. No, instead we measure the output and say go wherever you need to go to get 105mm of sag.

Out of curiosity I just measured the "stock" setting on my TC125 and it is 3.5 turns in from all the way out. I'll try the recommended 1.75 in this thread and see what the change is.
Right, you have all these moving variables of spring tensions, wear over time, etc. that move in unison to get to this end formula. Knowing even with the best of manufacturing ISO standards there is going to be that moving target among the various variables x + y + z = Answer... as long as you have the final Answer number (5600rpms for KTM on PV apparently), the adjustments at x + y + z may be slightly different from each bike to reach that Smile .

The Shop

Bruce372
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3/29/2021 3:09pm
Rickyisms wrote:
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but...
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but other than that runs fine. Going to see how the oxygenated fuel messes with it and then go from there.
Bruce372 wrote:
2018 is pretty close stock. Use the 32.5 pilot, 490 main and stock needle 2 or 3 and no need to change the s4 nozzle in...
2018 is pretty close stock.

Use the 32.5 pilot, 490 main and stock needle 2 or 3 and no need to change the s4 nozzle in there.

You could cut the slide slightly, I did my own and also tried the oem 5 slide and the 5 slide was a little too lean.

I don't see massive changes with the T2 fuel.

I've got a fresh can at home i will try soon but I can't see me making big carb changes based on experience.

The silencer is critical on the 150 and many more restricted silencers can mess up the jetting.

Pc shorty or stock.
Rickyisms wrote:
I run a full PC setup on my 16 125 and 150. This is a friends bike, only mod is a FMF turbinecore spark arrestor for...
I run a full PC setup on my 16 125 and 150. This is a friends bike, only mod is a FMF turbinecore spark arrestor for our harescramble series.
Sounds good... I also run an fmf turbine sparky and it does make a difference, negatively effecting performance over the pc shorty... plus, the bike does spooge more with with fmf sparky
AJ565
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3/29/2021 6:11pm
Rickyisms wrote:
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but...
Anyone got a starting baseline for a bonestock 2018 150SX running T2 in Florida? Bike bogs when you wack the throttle quickly on pump fuel, but other than that runs fine. Going to see how the oxygenated fuel messes with it and then go from there.
Run the jetting that’s on the first page with a 500 main. You may need one size bigger pilot, but you should be in the ballpark. T2 will need about 3% more fuel then pump because of the oxygen. I had good luck with that fuel in the 250.
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AJ565
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3/29/2021 6:13pm
dsk360 wrote:
Where is the power valve in the stock position?
FGR01 wrote:
Don't rely on what anyone tells you. Check your bike to know where it is at. They seem to vary from the factory regardless of what...
Don't rely on what anyone tells you. Check your bike to know where it is at. They seem to vary from the factory regardless of what anyone says the stock position is "supposed" to be. We had 3 brand new 2021 KTM 85's all side by side. Checked them all and all 3 had different PV settings and all 3 had the yellow paint dab on them indicating a QC check was done at the factory. I believe one was 1.5, another 2.5, and the third one was 3.5.
This. Mine was at 3 in. I like it the best at 1.75 turns on on the stock spring.
FGR01
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4/5/2021 7:44am
Another (third) update on my 2021 TC125 running AVGAS 100LL. Important to note this fuel as it seems to require quite a bit richer jetting.

Today I rode the same track. Motoland MX park, AZ. 1400ft, 80-90 degrees. Here's where I started (when it was hotter), then when it was 70-80, and where I am at now:

2021 Husq TC125
100LL Avgas, Maxima Super-M 40:1
Vented airbox cover
V-Force 4 reeds
Stock pipe/silencer---------------> Now Bill's pipe and MX2 Carbon silencer
Slide-5 (no notch on front)(no notch is not actually true, the 5.0 slide comes with a very small notch in it)
Needle Jet S4
Needle 42-74-----------------------> Now 42-73------------------------------> Back to 42-74
Clip-2--------------------------------->Now Clip-3-------------------------------> still clip 3 with the 42-74
Pilot 35------------------------------->Now 37.5
Main 500----------------------------->Now 540
AS - 1-1/2 turns-------------------------------------------------------------------> Now 1.75
PV - 3.5 turns in-------------------------------------------------------------------> now 2.25 turns in, more info below.

Bike absolutely rips. No hint of a bog anywhere, no rich stumble or stutter, and zero drool. Additional note, I also changed to the 2016 and older KTM Domino throttle housing from G2 with G2's +20% quicker turn tube. I like the shorter throw much better than stock and I think it has the added benefit of making it easier to get the bike into the richer part of the needle and the main.

4/5/2021 PV update. We had some previous discussion about PV preload setting. I tried going to AJ's 1.75 turns setting. As expected, the bike became lazy on the bottom and required dropping to 2nd more and more clutch abuse in corners. I then tried 2.75 and this was too snappy and touchy. Was lighting the tire up on shiny spots and the power would spool up too quick and then fall flat, many times peaking too early for the next jump. I could see this being great on a really tight track or in the woods maybe. So, I split the difference and went to 2.25 and now it's really nice. Comes on just quick enough and strong enough but is smooth and steady. At the end of the day, it seems both jetting and PV preload affect the response of the bike in different, but complimentary ways. So you have to balance the 2.
2
StevenMX
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4/7/2021 10:37am
FGR01 wrote:
Another (third) update on my 2021 TC125 running AVGAS 100LL. Important to note this fuel as it seems to require quite a bit richer jetting. Today...
Another (third) update on my 2021 TC125 running AVGAS 100LL. Important to note this fuel as it seems to require quite a bit richer jetting.

Today I rode the same track. Motoland MX park, AZ. 1400ft, 80-90 degrees. Here's where I started (when it was hotter), then when it was 70-80, and where I am at now:

2021 Husq TC125
100LL Avgas, Maxima Super-M 40:1
Vented airbox cover
V-Force 4 reeds
Stock pipe/silencer---------------> Now Bill's pipe and MX2 Carbon silencer
Slide-5 (no notch on front)(no notch is not actually true, the 5.0 slide comes with a very small notch in it)
Needle Jet S4
Needle 42-74-----------------------> Now 42-73------------------------------> Back to 42-74
Clip-2--------------------------------->Now Clip-3-------------------------------> still clip 3 with the 42-74
Pilot 35------------------------------->Now 37.5
Main 500----------------------------->Now 540
AS - 1-1/2 turns-------------------------------------------------------------------> Now 1.75
PV - 3.5 turns in-------------------------------------------------------------------> now 2.25 turns in, more info below.

Bike absolutely rips. No hint of a bog anywhere, no rich stumble or stutter, and zero drool. Additional note, I also changed to the 2016 and older KTM Domino throttle housing from G2 with G2's +20% quicker turn tube. I like the shorter throw much better than stock and I think it has the added benefit of making it easier to get the bike into the richer part of the needle and the main.

4/5/2021 PV update. We had some previous discussion about PV preload setting. I tried going to AJ's 1.75 turns setting. As expected, the bike became lazy on the bottom and required dropping to 2nd more and more clutch abuse in corners. I then tried 2.75 and this was too snappy and touchy. Was lighting the tire up on shiny spots and the power would spool up too quick and then fall flat, many times peaking too early for the next jump. I could see this being great on a really tight track or in the woods maybe. So, I split the difference and went to 2.25 and now it's really nice. Comes on just quick enough and strong enough but is smooth and steady. At the end of the day, it seems both jetting and PV preload affect the response of the bike in different, but complimentary ways. So you have to balance the 2.
That is awesome to hear FGR... I was able to get a few more hours on my 21 KTM 250sx with the fully spec'd AJ jetting from the main page, I dropped the pilot from 35 to 32.5 (I forgot the night before I went riding to pop that in) and now our weather this coming week is finally hitting the 70s which should put me in the sweet spot going forward. I have not played with the PV yet and I will still need to repack the silencer from the stock jetting as I suspect it oiled up the packing quite well in the short amount of hours I ran it with stock jetting. Will start adjusting/fine tuning that AS and PV next as I get more time and comfort on the bike, makes sense adjusting the PV could be beneficial given the track layout and where you want the rpm's to be at for the riding style. Interesting notes, appreciate it !
FGR01
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4/7/2021 10:59am
StevenMX wrote:
That is awesome to hear FGR... I was able to get a few more hours on my 21 KTM 250sx with the fully spec'd AJ jetting...
That is awesome to hear FGR... I was able to get a few more hours on my 21 KTM 250sx with the fully spec'd AJ jetting from the main page, I dropped the pilot from 35 to 32.5 (I forgot the night before I went riding to pop that in) and now our weather this coming week is finally hitting the 70s which should put me in the sweet spot going forward. I have not played with the PV yet and I will still need to repack the silencer from the stock jetting as I suspect it oiled up the packing quite well in the short amount of hours I ran it with stock jetting. Will start adjusting/fine tuning that AS and PV next as I get more time and comfort on the bike, makes sense adjusting the PV could be beneficial given the track layout and where you want the rpm's to be at for the riding style. Interesting notes, appreciate it !
Yeah, glad I played around with the PV. Now that I see what 1.75, 2.25, and 2.75 feel like, it makes me realize I was way too far in at 3.5 and why it felt so ultra-snappy. It also makes sense that the 3.5 likely was the result of the rpm tuning at the factory with the stock jetting and was a good match for that but was out of synch with the crisper jetting from this thread.
StevenMX
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4/7/2021 11:10am Edited Date/Time 4/7/2021 11:13am
FGR01 wrote:
Yeah, glad I played around with the PV. Now that I see what 1.75, 2.25, and 2.75 feel like, it makes me realize I was way...
Yeah, glad I played around with the PV. Now that I see what 1.75, 2.25, and 2.75 feel like, it makes me realize I was way too far in at 3.5 and why it felt so ultra-snappy. It also makes sense that the 3.5 likely was the result of the rpm tuning at the factory with the stock jetting and was a good match for that but was out of synch with the crisper jetting from this thread.
Makes sense... I'm curious how much the RPMs shifted from the factory set PV tuned range by adjusting the jetting. Are you using any special tool to turn the PV? I still haven't measured where mine is set from factory.

** Thinking more about it... if you went from 3.5 to 2.25 that's 1.25 turns which from the mag article they mentioned what a 150rpm swing per 1 turn at 5600rpms so ~187rpm swing from the stock jetting to your happy spot.
4/7/2021 11:13am
StevenMX wrote:
Makes sense... I'm curious how much the RPMs shifted from the factory set PV tuned range by adjusting the jetting. Are you using any special tool...
Makes sense... I'm curious how much the RPMs shifted from the factory set PV tuned range by adjusting the jetting. Are you using any special tool to turn the PV? I still haven't measured where mine is set from factory.

** Thinking more about it... if you went from 3.5 to 2.25 that's 1.25 turns which from the mag article they mentioned what a 150rpm swing per 1 turn at 5600rpms so ~187rpm swing from the stock jetting to your happy spot.
I took a piece of 3/16 keyway material and bent it 90° in the shape of a small allen wrench. Fits the square hole perfectly and is small enough to keep in your pocket when testing without the fear of impaling yourself :-)
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FGR01
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4/7/2021 11:39am
StevenMX wrote:
Makes sense... I'm curious how much the RPMs shifted from the factory set PV tuned range by adjusting the jetting. Are you using any special tool...
Makes sense... I'm curious how much the RPMs shifted from the factory set PV tuned range by adjusting the jetting. Are you using any special tool to turn the PV? I still haven't measured where mine is set from factory.

** Thinking more about it... if you went from 3.5 to 2.25 that's 1.25 turns which from the mag article they mentioned what a 150rpm swing per 1 turn at 5600rpms so ~187rpm swing from the stock jetting to your happy spot.
I kind of look at it from another way. With the jetting being crisper/leaner, the rpm's ramp up faster. Since the PV opens on a centrifugal system and not a direct 1:1 connection, it cannot open at the exact same rpm. So, 3.5 turns was good for the stock jetting, but with leaner jetting the PV was not opening quick enough or at the same rpm's. It literally felt like the engine/jetting was trying to rip through the rpm range but the PV was holding it back. In other words, I had to reduce the preload on the PV to allow it to open at the same rpm's with this jetting that it was previously opening with the stock jetting. I think anyway! It would be nice to have 2 carbs with each jetting spec and swap back and forth and try different PV settings so you could more easily recognize the differences.

As for the tool, the shank on a Craftsman screwdriver just happens to be the right size. I've noticed some of the tools you can buy are actually pretty cheap too.







2
StevenMX
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4/7/2021 12:22pm Edited Date/Time 4/7/2021 12:23pm
FGR01 wrote:
I kind of look at it from another way. With the jetting being crisper/leaner, the rpm's ramp up faster. Since the PV opens on a centrifugal...
I kind of look at it from another way. With the jetting being crisper/leaner, the rpm's ramp up faster. Since the PV opens on a centrifugal system and not a direct 1:1 connection, it cannot open at the exact same rpm. So, 3.5 turns was good for the stock jetting, but with leaner jetting the PV was not opening quick enough or at the same rpm's. It literally felt like the engine/jetting was trying to rip through the rpm range but the PV was holding it back. In other words, I had to reduce the preload on the PV to allow it to open at the same rpm's with this jetting that it was previously opening with the stock jetting. I think anyway! It would be nice to have 2 carbs with each jetting spec and swap back and forth and try different PV settings so you could more easily recognize the differences.

As for the tool, the shank on a Craftsman screwdriver just happens to be the right size. I've noticed some of the tools you can buy are actually pretty cheap too.







I wonder (I'm assuming you are using the yellow/stock spring), if just changing that aux spring then would effectively do the same thing? Interesting article I found... https://www.kreftmoto.com/power-valve-tuning
FGR01
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4/7/2021 2:16pm
StevenMX wrote:
I wonder (I'm assuming you are using the yellow/stock spring), if just changing that aux spring then would effectively do the same thing? Interesting article I...
I wonder (I'm assuming you are using the yellow/stock spring), if just changing that aux spring then would effectively do the same thing? Interesting article I found... https://www.kreftmoto.com/power-valve-tuning
Yep using stock yellow spring. Different colored springs are another whole variable in the equation I have not played with yet.
tsmitty2661
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4/10/2021 5:45pm
Hey guys need some help or ideas...

I have a 2019 KTM 150sx. I am running the suggested jetting from the first page. Maxima Super M mixed 40:1 with VP110. 5.0 slide is notched as well. The bike rips when out on the track and no complaints but I'm having some starting issues which is very frustrating.

Ive dropped from a 30 to a 25 pilot and the bike still struggles to start when i sit for 20-30 minutes in-between motos, and its not first or second kick when cold either. Ive even wet fouled some plugs. Seems my problem occurs when I'm done doing a moto and lug back to the truck. Once i get the bike running i need to clear it out for sure but after that its good to go.

Checked the reeds, theyre good, top end has less than 20 hours on it and kicker has good compression by feel. Everything leads me to think i need to drop to 22.5 but thats seems pretty far off from whats recommended.... I haven't set the air screw properly but its definitely over 3 turns out just messing with it to get the bike started. The past couple times I've ridden its been 70-80 degrees in the Pittsburgh Pa area so ~1000' elevation
Bruce372
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4/10/2021 6:46pm
It sounds like your pilot is too small if it's hard to start.

Have you updated the jet block gasket?
tsmitty2661
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4/10/2021 6:50pm
Bruce372 wrote:
It sounds like your pilot is too small if it's hard to start.

Have you updated the jet block gasket?
Yes jet block gasket has been replaced, and float height was set at 8-8.5mm. From my experience, when the pilot is too small the bike would scream when kicked over; I'm having to clear it out when kicked over.
FGR01
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4/11/2021 5:20pm
Hey guys need some help or ideas... I have a 2019 KTM 150sx. I am running the suggested jetting from the first page. Maxima Super M...
Hey guys need some help or ideas...

I have a 2019 KTM 150sx. I am running the suggested jetting from the first page. Maxima Super M mixed 40:1 with VP110. 5.0 slide is notched as well. The bike rips when out on the track and no complaints but I'm having some starting issues which is very frustrating.

Ive dropped from a 30 to a 25 pilot and the bike still struggles to start when i sit for 20-30 minutes in-between motos, and its not first or second kick when cold either. Ive even wet fouled some plugs. Seems my problem occurs when I'm done doing a moto and lug back to the truck. Once i get the bike running i need to clear it out for sure but after that its good to go.

Checked the reeds, theyre good, top end has less than 20 hours on it and kicker has good compression by feel. Everything leads me to think i need to drop to 22.5 but thats seems pretty far off from whats recommended.... I haven't set the air screw properly but its definitely over 3 turns out just messing with it to get the bike started. The past couple times I've ridden its been 70-80 degrees in the Pittsburgh Pa area so ~1000' elevation
VP110 on a stock motor (stock compression) is going to cause the bike to run rich. 110 is too much octane for a stock motor and the jetting from this thread. I would drain the bike and try some 91-93 octane pump gas just to see how it runs.

Next, enlarging the notch on the front of the slide increases the draw on the pilot as Digger has said many times. I personally have not enlarged the notch and am running a 37.5 (on a 125) and it's great. Can you post a pic and dimensions of the enlarged notch on your slide?
tsmitty2661
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4/12/2021 8:22am
Hey guys need some help or ideas... I have a 2019 KTM 150sx. I am running the suggested jetting from the first page. Maxima Super M...
Hey guys need some help or ideas...

I have a 2019 KTM 150sx. I am running the suggested jetting from the first page. Maxima Super M mixed 40:1 with VP110. 5.0 slide is notched as well. The bike rips when out on the track and no complaints but I'm having some starting issues which is very frustrating.

Ive dropped from a 30 to a 25 pilot and the bike still struggles to start when i sit for 20-30 minutes in-between motos, and its not first or second kick when cold either. Ive even wet fouled some plugs. Seems my problem occurs when I'm done doing a moto and lug back to the truck. Once i get the bike running i need to clear it out for sure but after that its good to go.

Checked the reeds, theyre good, top end has less than 20 hours on it and kicker has good compression by feel. Everything leads me to think i need to drop to 22.5 but thats seems pretty far off from whats recommended.... I haven't set the air screw properly but its definitely over 3 turns out just messing with it to get the bike started. The past couple times I've ridden its been 70-80 degrees in the Pittsburgh Pa area so ~1000' elevation
FGR01 wrote:
VP110 on a stock motor (stock compression) is going to cause the bike to run rich. 110 is too much octane for a stock motor and...
VP110 on a stock motor (stock compression) is going to cause the bike to run rich. 110 is too much octane for a stock motor and the jetting from this thread. I would drain the bike and try some 91-93 octane pump gas just to see how it runs.

Next, enlarging the notch on the front of the slide increases the draw on the pilot as Digger has said many times. I personally have not enlarged the notch and am running a 37.5 (on a 125) and it's great. Can you post a pic and dimensions of the enlarged notch on your slide?
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec sheet he sent me said c12 so the gas shouldn’t be the issue.

I want to check my needle valve and float height again today. Maybe it’s bleeding through and flooding the engine. Noticed after cleaning the bike yesterday that when I lift and lean it over onto the stand I was overflowing gas with the hose looped
1
AJ565
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4/12/2021 11:45am
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec...
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec sheet he sent me said c12 so the gas shouldn’t be the issue.

I want to check my needle valve and float height again today. Maybe it’s bleeding through and flooding the engine. Noticed after cleaning the bike yesterday that when I lift and lean it over onto the stand I was overflowing gas with the hose looped
I set my float height so they are parallel with the bottom of the carb.
FGR01
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4/12/2021 12:31pm
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec...
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec sheet he sent me said c12 so the gas shouldn’t be the issue.

I want to check my needle valve and float height again today. Maybe it’s bleeding through and flooding the engine. Noticed after cleaning the bike yesterday that when I lift and lean it over onto the stand I was overflowing gas with the hose looped
Does the spec sheet list the squish, head volume cc, and compression psi? If not, I would consider measuring the squish and compression and try to make a determination if you really need that much octane. I've seen a few times before where builders have told people they need some high octane when the engine really did not require it.
tsmitty2661
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4/12/2021 2:42pm
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec...
I notched the slide per diggers recommendations. 5/32 chainsaw file 4mm deep. Also the top end has been ported and polished by lynks and the spec sheet he sent me said c12 so the gas shouldn’t be the issue.

I want to check my needle valve and float height again today. Maybe it’s bleeding through and flooding the engine. Noticed after cleaning the bike yesterday that when I lift and lean it over onto the stand I was overflowing gas with the hose looped
AJ565 wrote:
I set my float height so they are parallel with the bottom of the carb.
Float was pretty much parallel with the flange. Needle valve doesn’t appear to be leaking through either. Guess I’ll try the 22.5 pilot and see what it does
Richy
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4/15/2021 4:13am Edited Date/Time 4/15/2021 9:31am
So from someone with the carb knowledge of a baked potato, with a way more basic question, after changing the jetting / slide / etc my idle seems a touch high and with the bike sat on the stand running the revs almost seem to hang slightly, kind of on the brink of hunting I guess would be a fair assessment...

Air screw is only a turn out with the above symptoms, same temps/elevation/jetting as Page 1 and I did manage to get a 5.75 slide in the end.

This is on a 250sx, any suggestions, any answers appreciated, thanks again folks.

I set the float height (or rather didn't set it, it was actually correct as it was weirdly) and replaced the jet block gasket while I was in there.
1
Hi Side
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NC US
4/15/2021 8:56am
I have a 2019 Husqvarna TC 125 with stock engine and stock Mikuni carb.

I have made the following modifications:

1) V-Force 4 reed block
2) FMF Factory Fatty pipe
3) FMF Powercore 2.1 silencer
4) Renegade SX2 race fuel mixed with Maxima 927 at 32:1

I live in the southeast and ride at an elevation between 600'-1200'. Can someone give me a starting point for jetting please? I would prefer it to be just a shade on the lean side.

Thanks in advance!
Richy
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UK GB
4/15/2021 9:30am
First post on the first page is the way to go it seems, then usual rule of up one on the pilot and up a couple on the main would probably be a fair starting point maybe? I'm sure there was a percentage to alter jetting by fuel oxygen content...

Sure someone will chime in with a proper answer soon. And hopefully to my post above yours too, air screw didn't cut it, just about to kick it over with a 35 pilot.
1
FGR01
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Fantasy
1327th
4/15/2021 12:32pm
Hi Side wrote:
I have a 2019 Husqvarna TC 125 with stock engine and stock Mikuni carb. I have made the following modifications: 1) V-Force 4 reed block 2)...
I have a 2019 Husqvarna TC 125 with stock engine and stock Mikuni carb.

I have made the following modifications:

1) V-Force 4 reed block
2) FMF Factory Fatty pipe
3) FMF Powercore 2.1 silencer
4) Renegade SX2 race fuel mixed with Maxima 927 at 32:1

I live in the southeast and ride at an elevation between 600'-1200'. Can someone give me a starting point for jetting please? I would prefer it to be just a shade on the lean side.

Thanks in advance!
From Renegade's website, SX2:

Octane – R+M/2 104.5
Motor Octane 100
Research Octane 109
Specific Gravity 0.717
RVP 8.35
Oxygen 5.6%
Leaded Yes

Based on the specs, I would say it's pretty close to the AvGas I run (low'ish spec gravity) and then with O2 content added. Take a look at my specs a few posts back. They are basically the original specs from this thread with a little bit of richening up to account for the low spec gravity. The O2 content of your fuel is going to lean it out a bit from there.
1
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
4/15/2021 7:12pm
Richy wrote:
So from someone with the carb knowledge of a baked potato, with a way more basic question, after changing the jetting / slide / etc my...
So from someone with the carb knowledge of a baked potato, with a way more basic question, after changing the jetting / slide / etc my idle seems a touch high and with the bike sat on the stand running the revs almost seem to hang slightly, kind of on the brink of hunting I guess would be a fair assessment...

Air screw is only a turn out with the above symptoms, same temps/elevation/jetting as Page 1 and I did manage to get a 5.75 slide in the end.

This is on a 250sx, any suggestions, any answers appreciated, thanks again folks.

I set the float height (or rather didn't set it, it was actually correct as it was weirdly) and replaced the jet block gasket while I was in there.
Back out the idle screw. Personally my bike doesn’t idle, but will stall on its own after 2-3 seconds.
1
AJ565
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Location
San Antonio, TX US
4/15/2021 7:18pm
Hi Side wrote:
I have a 2019 Husqvarna TC 125 with stock engine and stock Mikuni carb. I have made the following modifications: 1) V-Force 4 reed block 2)...
I have a 2019 Husqvarna TC 125 with stock engine and stock Mikuni carb.

I have made the following modifications:

1) V-Force 4 reed block
2) FMF Factory Fatty pipe
3) FMF Powercore 2.1 silencer
4) Renegade SX2 race fuel mixed with Maxima 927 at 32:1

I live in the southeast and ride at an elevation between 600'-1200'. Can someone give me a starting point for jetting please? I would prefer it to be just a shade on the lean side.

Thanks in advance!
First page has good base settings. Running 32:1 will lean it out as well as the type of fuel will be a bit leaner because of how it burns. You might want to try it and and see how it runs and maybe go back to 40:1 to richen it back up.
1
Richy
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UK GB
4/15/2021 11:04pm Edited Date/Time 4/15/2021 11:04pm
Thanks for your help again man, I tried the airscrew at different points but ended up on a 35 pilot last night, just a little variance on my specific engine I suppose (I'm not 100% on what kind of health mine is in right now). Thanks man!

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