KTM 300 XC won't start intermittently

papo#915
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15
Joined
5/3/2018
Location
Fayetteville, NC US
2013 KTM 300 XC: Electrical Troubleshooting Advice badly needed for fairly new KTM owner who just reinstalled electric starter parts. WARNING! Long read and some Electrical knowledge required. Comment or PM with details please!

Issue: INTERMITTENTLY not getting any ignition spark (wire or cap), but most times when moving the CDI/ECU box around I'm able to get spark again! But sometimes it goes out longer as if the CDI box was in some kinda protective mode.

Background: bought bike without E-starter kit. It had a Baja Designs voltage regulator and stator mod for DC voltage (unknown to me during initial troubleshooting) to run lights I didn't get with bike. Installed E-starter and new battery but it wouldn't start with E-start on cold engine, only by kickstarter. But it would not produce more than 13.4 Volts with bike running. I even de-modded the stator back to OEM standard (AC v) and OEM voltage regulator. But not much improvement. Then I started having the no-spark issue, especially after E-start attempts, which I attributed to a combination of bad stator/pick-up coil and ignition coil since some of the readings were borderline off.

I decided to get a new stator and voltage regulator and while at it new ignition coil. Installed all the new stuff and it cranked much stronger and even E-started it a couple times on a somewhat cold engine. Then it would lose spark again. I tested everything I could with a multimeter (ohms) and it passed the continuity tests as per the manual. However, I haven't found any data on troubleshooting the CDI box. I know I got continuity between pins 2 (ground, br) and 11 (pick-up coil/CPS, gn) in the CDI box. Not sure if CDI pin 11 should be grounded to pin 2 internally or if any other terminals should be grounded to each other in the CDI. All wiring harness wires have continuity and no shorts. I even moved them around while checking. Wiring harness connector to CDI was a little questionable cuz it slips out a little on one side but even while pressing it I'm still not getting spark at the ignition when cranking (intermittently). I'm leaning toward CDI box with a slight change it could be the connector. Thoughts? guidance? recommendations?

New Parts: OEM stator, OEM voltage regulator, OEM ignition, Neuron starter, Shorai battery

Used Parts: CDI/ECU box, bendix, wiring harness, starter relay
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Paw Paw 271
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Location
Benton, LA US
5/25/2019 7:34pm
The very first think I would do is load test the battery. It sounds like it is very low, even with it being new. What battery did you install? Lead acid or a li unit?
Also your charge voltage is low.

Paw Paw
1
papo#915
Posts
15
Joined
5/3/2018
Location
Fayetteville, NC US
6/3/2019 9:06am
The very first think I would do is load test the battery. It sounds like it is very low, even with it being new. What battery...
The very first think I would do is load test the battery. It sounds like it is very low, even with it being new. What battery did you install? Lead acid or a li unit?
Also your charge voltage is low.

Paw Paw
Well got it fixed. The battery wasn't the problem 'cause even with kickstart it wasn't getting spark. The wiring harness was the problem and I suspected it because if I moved it around sometimes it would get spark again. But it threw me off that I tested the harness with the multimeter and it had continuity from one end to the other on each cable and no shorts to other cables. It wasn't the CDI and I'm happy about that. I got the Lithium 210 cca one and with all that cranking amp I still can't start the bike most of the time if it's been sitting anymore than 5-10 minutes. So gonna charge the battery just to see if that changes anything. Lots of people are saying that the e-start on these bikes is for hot re-starts only but dang 5 minutes? that's not even cold and it was 100 degrees yesterday and would ride 30-60 minutes at the time and still the same crap. Got new stator and voltage regulator too.
1
Layton
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299
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8/16/2018
Location
Geneseo, IL US
6/5/2019 6:48am
Have you checked the four bushings the bendix and drive gears run on? If the Teflon is gone then the bushings are worn out and will cause the electric starter to not work very well.
1
papo#915
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Location
Fayetteville, NC US
6/5/2019 12:46pm
Layton wrote:
Have you checked the four bushings the bendix and drive gears run on? If the Teflon is gone then the bushings are worn out and will...
Have you checked the four bushings the bendix and drive gears run on? If the Teflon is gone then the bushings are worn out and will cause the electric starter to not work very well.
I did check them and they’re still there and seem fine; however, they’re black not orange. Do I have to replace them if they’re not orange on the inside? They’re not bare metal but black.

The Shop

Layton
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299
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8/16/2018
Location
Geneseo, IL US
6/5/2019 1:07pm
All of the stock ones are orange. Maybe the Teflon is gone. If so I’d replace them. They are cheap anyway.
1
papo#915
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Location
Fayetteville, NC US
6/5/2019 4:18pm
Layton wrote:
All of the stock ones are orange. Maybe the Teflon is gone. If so I’d replace them. They are cheap anyway.
Yeah gonna do that this weekend. I got some new ones I ordered a couple weeks ago,

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