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The stock KTM rear axle is nothing more than a big flange bolt, washer, and nut. The Honda style is essentially replacing the flange bolt with a standard bolt and adding a washer. Both setups hold everything together, and so long as the torque is high enough to prevent movement (as it absolutely should be!), there should be no noticable difference between the two setups from a stiffness standpoint. Or in other words, there is nothing floating about a "floating axle". With everything properly tightened and held together, both setups will flex the same.
I've never had a problem adjusting chain tension as others are mentioning, but I've never personally used the stock KTM axle setup either. I always replace that with our axle blocks, which are identical to the KTM stuff in concept, but have tighter tolerances, a better fit, and a hard anodized finish. Perhaps that's what is allowing an easy chain tension adjustment? Or maybe it's just my technique. Regardless, it works well for me, and using the integrated axle block/axle setup like stock KTM is just a more elegant solution - fewer loose parts to fiddle with when changing a wheel and lighter weight.
The Shop
Just guessing
Another thing I just thought of -
Wheel bearings wear out. That makes side to side play get larger and larger which proves alot of side loads being present. Maybe the axel system and swing arm are twisting and on that note, there is are many reasons why croch rockets street bikes have fat swing arms. Fatter tires, higher speeds, higher g's, big axels.
It must make a difference some way / some how.
That's the issue with science and experience - they dont make sense according to the rules sometimes.
Pit Row
Post a reply to: Husky/KTM Axle Blocks?