Helicoil Tips

Acidreamer
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Acidreamer
Found out my kx had a helicoil installed from who owned it before me. Well i noticed the oil leaking after i changed it and put a new crush washer on. Went to re-drain the oil and the helicoil backed out. Helicoils dont seem like the best solution for holding oil. A timesert looks better. Anyways, im going to go ahead and put another helicoil in since i cant go from a helicoil to a timesert. Usually at work we install them with red loctite. Since this is holding oil, should i use red loctite or use that pipe tape stuff? I want this thing to not leak. Or maybe what i could do is red loctite on the helicoil, and use Yamabond or something instead of a crush washer to prevent leaking.

Not 100% sure on what to do here to keep this from leaking.
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harescrambled
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harescrambled 8/27/2017 3:07pm
8/27/2017 3:07pm
Acidreamer wrote:
Found out my kx had a helicoil installed from who owned it before me. Well i noticed the oil leaking after i changed it and put...
Found out my kx had a helicoil installed from who owned it before me. Well i noticed the oil leaking after i changed it and put a new crush washer on. Went to re-drain the oil and the helicoil backed out. Helicoils dont seem like the best solution for holding oil. A timesert looks better. Anyways, im going to go ahead and put another helicoil in since i cant go from a helicoil to a timesert. Usually at work we install them with red loctite. Since this is holding oil, should i use red loctite or use that pipe tape stuff? I want this thing to not leak. Or maybe what i could do is red loctite on the helicoil, and use Yamabond or something instead of a crush washer to prevent leaking.

Not 100% sure on what to do here to keep this from leaking.
You could use a drop of red loctite on the helicoil...just make sure the helicoil and the hole it's going into are both oil free or it won't bond. Also, when you install the helicoil, make sure to let the loctite dry, then run a tap through it to clean out any loctite residue that made its way to the ID of the helicoil. Also, the helicoil must be installed so it's below flush with the sealing surface. The crush washer is what keeps the thing from leaking....this is why the helicoil has to be below the level of the sealing surface. Install a new crush washer when you put the oil drain bolt back in.
Acidreamer
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Acidreamer 8/27/2017 3:20pm
8/27/2017 3:20pm
Acidreamer wrote:
Found out my kx had a helicoil installed from who owned it before me. Well i noticed the oil leaking after i changed it and put...
Found out my kx had a helicoil installed from who owned it before me. Well i noticed the oil leaking after i changed it and put a new crush washer on. Went to re-drain the oil and the helicoil backed out. Helicoils dont seem like the best solution for holding oil. A timesert looks better. Anyways, im going to go ahead and put another helicoil in since i cant go from a helicoil to a timesert. Usually at work we install them with red loctite. Since this is holding oil, should i use red loctite or use that pipe tape stuff? I want this thing to not leak. Or maybe what i could do is red loctite on the helicoil, and use Yamabond or something instead of a crush washer to prevent leaking.

Not 100% sure on what to do here to keep this from leaking.
harescrambled wrote:
You could use a drop of red loctite on the helicoil...just make sure the helicoil and the hole it's going into are both oil free or...
You could use a drop of red loctite on the helicoil...just make sure the helicoil and the hole it's going into are both oil free or it won't bond. Also, when you install the helicoil, make sure to let the loctite dry, then run a tap through it to clean out any loctite residue that made its way to the ID of the helicoil. Also, the helicoil must be installed so it's below flush with the sealing surface. The crush washer is what keeps the thing from leaking....this is why the helicoil has to be below the level of the sealing surface. Install a new crush washer when you put the oil drain bolt back in.
Yea i think the helicoil was sticking out a bit when i put the plug back in after the 1st drain. im leaving the plug out till next weekend to let every ounce oil drip out. Thanks for the tip. Didnt think about using a tap to clear loctite.
Paw Paw
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Paw Paw 8/27/2017 6:20pm
8/27/2017 6:20pm
OK, the only Loctite product to use on this application is "Threadlock Green". It will hold up to the hot oil where as the Red Loctite will break down.
Remember that the engine case is very thin where the drain plug is located.

Paw Paw
m.hardesty16 8/27/2017 6:49pm
8/27/2017 6:49pm
Step one: stop using helicoil they suck and will pull them selves out, I dont trust them. Next chance you get look out for a used case and install it when you tear apart your motor or maybe get it welded and tapped as a cheaper option if possible.

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omalley
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omalley 8/27/2017 7:02pm
8/27/2017 7:02pm
m.hardesty16 wrote:
Step one: stop using helicoil they suck and will pull them selves out, I dont trust them. Next chance you get look out for a used...
Step one: stop using helicoil they suck and will pull them selves out, I dont trust them. Next chance you get look out for a used case and install it when you tear apart your motor or maybe get it welded and tapped as a cheaper option if possible.
Agree with this^^^. However, to get you by until then, is it possible to source a drain bolt/washer that would fit the threads that the helicoil goes into? Possibly from a car/truck? Then you could ditch the helicoil.
swatdoc
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swatdoc 8/27/2017 7:41pm
8/27/2017 7:41pm
I like Time-serts instead of Heli-coils any day
Acidreamer
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Acidreamer 8/28/2017 2:37am
8/28/2017 2:37am
m.hardesty16 wrote:
Step one: stop using helicoil they suck and will pull them selves out, I dont trust them. Next chance you get look out for a used...
Step one: stop using helicoil they suck and will pull them selves out, I dont trust them. Next chance you get look out for a used case and install it when you tear apart your motor or maybe get it welded and tapped as a cheaper option if possible.
omalley wrote:
Agree with this^^^. However, to get you by until then, is it possible to source a drain bolt/washer that would fit the threads that the helicoil...
Agree with this^^^. However, to get you by until then, is it possible to source a drain bolt/washer that would fit the threads that the helicoil goes into? Possibly from a car/truck? Then you could ditch the helicoil.
If i was stupid enough to strip the threads in the first place, i would have done a timesert for sure. According to timesert you cannot go from helicoil threads to a timesert thread. Also the external threads on timeserts and helicoils arent standard threads. The insert will be stronger than aluminum threads anyways.
Paw Paw
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Paw Paw 8/28/2017 8:19am
8/28/2017 8:19am
The amount of case material at that location is very little and it is not solid. Neither thread insert will last as there is nothing for them to get a good bite into.

Paw Paw
Acidreamer
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Acidreamer 8/28/2017 9:28am
8/28/2017 9:28am
Paw Paw wrote:
The amount of case material at that location is very little and it is not solid. Neither thread insert will last as there is nothing for...
The amount of case material at that location is very little and it is not solid. Neither thread insert will last as there is nothing for them to get a good bite into.

Paw Paw
Yea i saw that when i put a flashlight in there. Im about at the point of fixing it and selling it instead of rebuilding the motor with new cases. Nothing more infuriating than people who dont know how to turn a ratchet but try anyways.

What do you think about some kind of rubber washer or pipe tape to seal the plug?
Paw Paw
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Paw Paw 8/28/2017 3:15pm
8/28/2017 3:15pm
I have tried to fix those several times with limited success due to the thin case. The only real fix is to replace that case half, if you can find one. This is a very common issue with these bikes.

Paw Paw

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