Disassemble fork suspension - now oil lock missing! See last post

I'm getting a little rusty in this stuff, but is there not a piece threaded into the bottom of the slider, that you unscrew, to release the assembly? Seems to KYB of that era were an Allen socket type, thinking Showa is a standard nut? If that's the case, you may not get that loose now, but put a bar through the fork lug, and try a big bar with the appropriate tool.

The big ugly Canadian is correct, you have to remove the base valve from the bottom to get the cartridge out.

You'll need an impact with likely a 14 or 17mm Allen socket compressing the spring agent the spring seat to stop the cartridge from spinning while you zap the base valve out. Otherwise you have to have a special tool hold the cartridge while you use a ratchet to unscrew the base valve.

Lol Look in the mirror lately? Only thing I have on you is size. Dickhead.

Hey buddy, my mom said I was the most handsome young man at John Holst Elementary school!

No, you don't need to remove the fork lug. The cartridge sits in the fork lug and the base valve holds it in. Once you fully remove the base valve from the bottom of the fork you will be able to just slide the cartridge out of the fork tube.

Considering that school consisted of 100% short yellow bus and mini van ramp drop offs, I wouldn't put too much stock into that. I'm guessing you got trophies for just showing up, even back in the 70's. So, at least you can say you were ahead of the trend. Hell, you might have even been part of the start of it.

As far as assembling the cartridge, reverse order with an impact and spring pressure or a cartridge holding tool if you want to tighten the base valve with a rachet/torque wrench.

Your next issue will be disassembling the cartridge once it's out, you can't really remove the oil lock(what you called the slide bearing) because it'e held in place with a circlip that had a retaining washer that is crimped on. When you get the cartridge out of the tube you'll see that it has a threaded seal head that you unscrew by once again using the special cartridge tool, or making one yourself that works, and locking it in the 4 posts of the spring seat(seen in the inside bottom of your 2nd photo) while holding the cartridge in a vice with a shaft clamp of proper dimensions.

Guess what? yep, not done yet... When you finally get the cartridge apart you'll still have to get the lowering spacer in place. for that you should be able to clamp the Cartridge rod with another shaft clamp, probably 12mm, and unscrew the entire rebound tower(the part that holds the rebound piston/valving to rod) from the rod and then slide your spacer on the rod and reinstall the rebound tower. You need the spacer between the seal head assembly and the rebound tower to limit travel.

Oh yeah, one more thing. What's your plan for the added pre load the lowering spacer is going to add to the fork spring? You will need to remove the same amount of length from the spring as your spacer is.

Hey, sorry, I took a road trip and I'm out of town for the weekend so I'm just getting a look here. The older forks sometimes need a tug to get the cartridge out of the fork tube, but sounds like you got that figured out. It looks like when you took the base valve out the nut unscrewed and left all the valving inside the cartridge. Form your picture with the base valve in the plastic bin it either unscrewed or even looks like the threads on the BV post may have broken? It doesn't look like there many threads left..