Disassemble fork suspension - now oil lock missing! See last post

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12/15/2016 2:06 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/15/2016 2:14 PM

Hi,

I've dissassembled my fork, but don't succeed in the very last bit.
I want to get the rod out of the compression damper ( = inner tube), but the stop in the middle of the tube (as visible in the second picture) prevents me from. Looks like there are 2 options:
1. Getting that one out
2. Getting the slide bearing in the middle of the rod (as visible in the first picure) of, so I can slide the rod out from the bottom end of the fork.

Has any of you experience with this? I need to get under the stop, in order to put a lowering spacer there. How to do so? It is a 1993 CR125 Showa 43mm fork

Thanks!

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12/15/2016 3:49 PM

I'm getting a little rusty in this stuff, but is there not a piece threaded into the bottom of the slider, that you unscrew, to release the assembly? Seems to KYB of that era were an Allen socket type, thinking Showa is a standard nut? If that's the case, you may not get that loose now, but put a bar through the fork lug, and try a big bar with the appropriate tool.

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12/15/2016 4:22 PM

The big ugly Canadian is correct, you have to remove the base valve from the bottom to get the cartridge out.

You'll need an impact with likely a 14 or 17mm Allen socket compressing the spring agent the spring seat to stop the cartridge from spinning while you zap the base valve out. Otherwise you have to have a special tool hold the cartridge while you use a ratchet to unscrew the base valve.

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12/15/2016 6:52 PM

Lol Look in the mirror lately? Only thing I have on you is size. Dickhead.

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12/15/2016 10:15 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/15/2016 10:16 PM

Yes I can screw the base valve nut off, from the hole in the fork foot. Almost did. But then I realised that I won't have good acces to put these little parts back on lateron, which got me thinking that I should be able to get the rod out with the valve as one assembly?

Or do you guys mean that I just need to get the fork foot off?

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12/16/2016 6:35 AM

scooter5002 wrote:

Lol Look in the mirror lately? Only thing I have on you is size. Dickhead.

Hey buddy, my mom said I was the most handsome young man at John Holst Elementary school!

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12/16/2016 6:39 AM

Henkies wrote:

Yes I can screw the base valve nut off, from the hole in the fork foot. Almost did. But then I realised that I won't have good ...more

No, you don't need to remove the fork lug. The cartridge sits in the fork lug and the base valve holds it in. Once you fully remove the base valve from the bottom of the fork you will be able to just slide the cartridge out of the fork tube.

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12/16/2016 7:03 AM

I think so too, only wondering how I get the valve parts back in nicely then.
Because you only have acces from the hole in the fork lug, to put these delicate valve parts back in.
I'll have a look tonight and take a picture if neccesary...

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12/16/2016 8:23 AM

scooter5002 wrote:

Lol Look in the mirror lately? Only thing I have on you is size. Dickhead.

slipdog wrote:

Hey buddy, my mom said I was the most handsome young man at John Holst Elementary school!

Considering that school consisted of 100% short yellow bus and mini van ramp drop offs, I wouldn't put too much stock into that. I'm guessing you got trophies for just showing up, even back in the 70's. So, at least you can say you were ahead of the trend. Hell, you might have even been part of the start of it.

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12/16/2016 9:03 AM

Henkies wrote:

I think so too, only wondering how I get the valve parts back in nicely then.
Because you only have acces from the hole in ...more

As far as assembling the cartridge, reverse order with an impact and spring pressure or a cartridge holding tool if you want to tighten the base valve with a rachet/torque wrench.

Your next issue will be disassembling the cartridge once it's out, you can't really remove the oil lock(what you called the slide bearing) because it'e held in place with a circlip that had a retaining washer that is crimped on. When you get the cartridge out of the tube you'll see that it has a threaded seal head that you unscrew by once again using the special cartridge tool, or making one yourself that works, and locking it in the 4 posts of the spring seat(seen in the inside bottom of your 2nd photo) while holding the cartridge in a vice with a shaft clamp of proper dimensions.

Guess what? yep, not done yet... When you finally get the cartridge apart you'll still have to get the lowering spacer in place. for that you should be able to clamp the Cartridge rod with another shaft clamp, probably 12mm, and unscrew the entire rebound tower(the part that holds the rebound piston/valving to rod) from the rod and then slide your spacer on the rod and reinstall the rebound tower. You need the spacer between the seal head assembly and the rebound tower to limit travel.

Oh yeah, one more thing. What's your plan for the added pre load the lowering spacer is going to add to the fork spring? You will need to remove the same amount of length from the spring as your spacer is.

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12/17/2016 2:09 AM

Thanks for your extensive help Slipdog.

I've inluded a picture of how far I am, to show the parts.
I thought the rod is sliding through the inner tube (green), but apparently there's another tube inside.That's the red assembly. I don't see how to get that out. By unscrewing the spring seat with a (home made) special cartridge tool?
That one looks crimped, but if you confirm it can be unscrewed, I'll give it a try.
Yeah then I should be able to reach the rebound tower, take it off and add a spacer.
From below I can't reach it wel, as shown on the last picture.

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So I should unscrew the spring seat as shown on this picture?
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12/17/2016 2:11 AM

This red and green parst I was talking about. Photo

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12/17/2016 5:08 AM

Already got the red circled cartrige out! Just needed a pull.
The rest will sort out I think. Let's see...

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12/18/2016 7:47 AM

Henkies wrote:

Already got the red circled cartrige out! Just needed a pull.
The rest will sort out I think. Let's see...

Hey, sorry, I took a road trip and I'm out of town for the weekend so I'm just getting a look here. The older forks sometimes need a tug to get the cartridge out of the fork tube, but sounds like you got that figured out. It looks like when you took the base valve out the nut unscrewed and left all the valving inside the cartridge. Form your picture with the base valve in the plastic bin it either unscrewed or even looks like the threads on the BV post may have broken? It doesn't look like there many threads left..

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12/18/2016 7:59 AM

Hi. Well I've almost completely dissambled it now, only the circlip is remaining.
I pulled the cartdige out, and unscrewed the spring seat while heating a bit. Good choice, 'cause loctite was applied.
Now the rod/valve is being stopped in upwards direction by a circlip. Am figuring out how to get that out. Then it's fully dissamlbed and I can see if all parts are OK, like you're describing Slipdog.

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12/18/2016 9:30 AM

Got it! Thanks all for your help. I'll put a short write-up on here before assembly, for anyone that might need it later..

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9/23/2017 1:24 PM
Edited Date/Time: 9/23/2017 10:16 PM

While I was finally assembling this fork again, I noticed it lacks one oil stop!
It was visible in the first picture of this tread already, but below once again.
I didn't know its function till now.

Should I source another oil lock for the empty cartridge rod or don't they do that much anyways?

Can i just make an alloy one on a latte, or should it be annodised afterwards like the other one (showing wear unfortunately)

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9/23/2017 2:36 PM

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