Crank bearings- reinstall

rucka356
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11/23/2019 8:21pm
When I put my cases together the crank would not hardly move so I split the cases again. Now the crank bearing is stuck on the new crank(no bind). Do I need to pull bearing off when I reinstall left side case or can I use crank puller tool and pull together just is I would if bearing was in case?
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pCp 252
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11/24/2019 8:30am
Yes you’re going to want to take the bearing off the crank before assembly and then press it back into the case. Use a large bearing separator to remove it from the crank. You can rent one from autozone.
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harescrambled
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11/24/2019 11:29am
rucka356 wrote:
When I put my cases together the crank would not hardly move so I split the cases again. Now the crank bearing is stuck on the...
When I put my cases together the crank would not hardly move so I split the cases again. Now the crank bearing is stuck on the new crank(no bind). Do I need to pull bearing off when I reinstall left side case or can I use crank puller tool and pull together just is I would if bearing was in case?
Next time you put it together, if the crank binds when the cases are properly torqued together, give the crank end (I start with the flywheel side) a good smack with a shot filled plastic mallet. In many cases, the crank binds because it's slightly off center...this fixes the problem. If hitting one end doesn't fix it, try the other side. Also, since you've already had it together, had an issue, and taken it apart again, it's a good idea to check the crank to make sure it's still true
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garagedog
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11/28/2019 5:30pm
You could put the crank in the freezer and warm up the cases. It should go on pretty easy. You may not even need the puller.
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rucka356
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11/28/2019 8:55pm
garagedog wrote:
You could put the crank in the freezer and warm up the cases. It should go on pretty easy. You may not even need the puller.
I actually did that the for thebright side. I was struggling with getting transmission in so by the time I got to the left side the crank was not too cold. going to give it another shot tomorrow, will out the case in my electric smoker to heat it back up

The Shop

Paul_Pitzonka
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Grand Terrace, CA US
11/29/2019 4:59am Edited Date/Time 11/29/2019 5:00am
garagedog wrote:
You could put the crank in the freezer and warm up the cases. It should go on pretty easy. You may not even need the puller.
rucka356 wrote:
I actually did that the for thebright side. I was struggling with getting transmission in so by the time I got to the left side the...
I actually did that the for thebright side. I was struggling with getting transmission in so by the time I got to the left side the crank was not too cold. going to give it another shot tomorrow, will out the case in my electric smoker to heat it back up
heat a slug of metal or a large socket the diameter of the inner race and place it on the main bearing... this allows you to install the transmission prior and not worry about the case cooling off...
kb228
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Mansfield, OH US
11/29/2019 12:46pm
Just adding to the existing advice... Something ive found works well is putting a thin layer of grease around the outer race. Seems to help it go in without binding.
rucka356
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11/29/2019 1:16pm
Really appreciate the tips guys, hoping I can get this finished over the weekend
rucka356
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12/4/2019 7:19pm
Next time you put it together, if the crank binds when the cases are properly torqued together, give the crank end (I start with the flywheel...
Next time you put it together, if the crank binds when the cases are properly torqued together, give the crank end (I start with the flywheel side) a good smack with a shot filled plastic mallet. In many cases, the crank binds because it's slightly off center...this fixes the problem. If hitting one end doesn't fix it, try the other side. Also, since you've already had it together, had an issue, and taken it apart again, it's a good idea to check the crank to make sure it's still true
I pulled it ack apart and put some calipers on it with it still in the clutch side case. everything appeared to line up, do these things really get knocked out of true that easily?
Paul_Pitzonka
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12/4/2019 7:46pm Edited Date/Time 12/4/2019 7:48pm
Next time you put it together, if the crank binds when the cases are properly torqued together, give the crank end (I start with the flywheel...
Next time you put it together, if the crank binds when the cases are properly torqued together, give the crank end (I start with the flywheel side) a good smack with a shot filled plastic mallet. In many cases, the crank binds because it's slightly off center...this fixes the problem. If hitting one end doesn't fix it, try the other side. Also, since you've already had it together, had an issue, and taken it apart again, it's a good idea to check the crank to make sure it's still true
rucka356 wrote:
I pulled it ack apart and put some calipers on it with it still in the clutch side case. everything appeared to line up, do these...
I pulled it ack apart and put some calipers on it with it still in the clutch side case. everything appeared to line up, do these things really get knocked out of true that easily?
To check if a crank is true you need a Truing stand (set of v blocks can work as well), or a lathe with a set of centers, and a couple of dial indicators... ideally you’re looking for anything less than .001” of runout. (The Factory service manuals allow for more, I think most manufacturers are around .0018-.002” which i find a bit too excessive). Also to answer your question; yes, you would be surprised how easy it is to knock a crank out of true... alot of brand new cranks aren’t true when you pull them out of the box...
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Engine Guy #1
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12/5/2019 1:35pm
If the crank is tight once the cases are bolted together ..... carefully hit the front engine mount firmly from the side with a steel hammer. Do this to both sides of the mount. Be careful to only strike the flat surface that would be touching the frame so as not to damage the case. This should free it up....if it doesn't then you have a crankshaft width problem or a bearing problem.
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Matt Fisher
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12/6/2019 10:29pm
You can pick up dry ice from most supermarkets for cheap. -109 F shrinks stuff better than the typical home freezer at 4 F.
rucka356
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Knoxville, TN US
12/7/2019 3:17pm
Should any machine shop be able to check the trueness?
rucka356
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12/22/2019 9:45pm Edited Date/Time 12/22/2019 9:46pm
Welp, had crank checked, got it back, put it back together and the damn thing is still binding up. #&#&×&×^# A!!! used cank pulling tool and everything
Momus
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12/29/2019 12:41am
rucka356 wrote:
Welp, had crank checked, got it back, put it back together and the damn thing is still binding up. #&#&×&×^# A!!! used cank pulling tool and...
Welp, had crank checked, got it back, put it back together and the damn thing is still binding up. #&#&×&×^# A!!! used cank pulling tool and everything
Take it to a mechanic now. You are out of your depth.

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