Crank alignment

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2/17/2020 8:32 PM

Just how easy is it to knock a crank out of alignment? Tried to knock it out with a rubber hammer before getting a right tool to push it out. Do I need to replace it or have it trued?



On another note: bearing came out with the crank on the stator side. Any tricks on getting it off?

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2/18/2020 3:57 AM

A 3 jaw puller should work to get the bearing off.

And you should check your runout on a truing stand to be sure. Dont guess based off how hard you hit it. If its knocked out just send it off to ken oconnor for a rebuild. Its roughly $240 after shipping.

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2/18/2020 5:24 AM

You need a bearing splitter... and always make sure a crank’s true regardless of method used for removal...

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2/18/2020 9:33 PM

Get a set of clam shells clamps from harbor freight. Slid them under the bearing and tap them together with a hammer. You can give it a good whack if needed.

One of the biggest reasons everyone think hot rods or wiseco cranks are shit is some times they get knocked out of tru and alignment in the shipping process. Think of it like this from factory to wearhouse to dealer to you or builder. Lot of moving around. So people just throw these cranks in without checking and blow their motor. Next thing you know oh hot rods suck.

Anyways send it out and have it trued. Im gonna tell you to send it to crank works im Tempe they do great work. They do a ton of custom work and for the factory teams. Have them tru, balance and weld the pin

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2/19/2020 8:40 PM

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2/21/2020 5:05 AM

Thanks guys for all the advice. I’ve emailed Ken and crank works for quotes. I’d like to ship the crank and case half to the same place. Need the drain filled and retapped too.

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2/21/2020 7:31 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/21/2020 7:32 AM

I rebuild my own cranks and I need a HD brass hammer to align them. I really have to whack them pretty hard to get the flywheels to move. Using a rubber mallet that absorbs the blows to pop the crank out seems like a gentle method to get it out of the cases. Unless you were caught off guard and it hit the floor, I doubt you disturbed the alignment. The removal would only disturb the width. Caliper the rod width of the flywheel and then the 6 oclock position (opposite the rod ). Copper jawed vice if too wide and a flat chisel too open it to the correct width measured at the rod side

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