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Thrust bearing washer surfaces are reasonably proud after minor "cleanup". Bearings will seat perfectly. Stupid bastards and complete lack of maintenance. Czech yer Sliders and chain tension!
Help a fellow out... The vast skills of Vital MX are a resource to be reckoned with and welcomed!
The first thing I do is give the culprit that let such damage occur, a right royal ripping. They can't handle that, they are welcome to f**k off. To let such a thing happen, is just piss poor. Inheriting such damage for a new owner really can give them quite a concern as the the rest of the bike.
Doing it properly, If I don't have a rod / plug machined already to the right size, I get the original bearing outer, and skim / linish it to a slip fit. That holds the bearing tunnel circular, but doesn't let it take a set ( when the metal is soft, and the interference fit 'expands' it), and then have the chance of the interference fit being lost. Even if the actual welding is not that close to the bearing 'tunnel' - I just don't risk it.
The outer landing is , generally, for a seal. To minimize the amount of work I have to do, I either machine up a slip fit insert for it, or if I've an old socket that I'm not too worried about that fits nicely, I use that. and fit it in the landing Then I TIG weld it up. With a good weld (and, they are generally layered, but I try to keep welding to a minimum) I usually end up with having to do no clean up of the seal landing ID after removal of the insert / socket. Then , It's on to the external re-profiling.
The vast, Vast majority of modern Aluminium Swingarms are of a self aging / hardening type, so I usually ask the owners to let it sit for a couple of weeks - but most, I know, just put them straight back in and ride.
I've never had a repair fail, despite the foolishness of some of my customers. Now, twonkers that come back a second time with the same damage? Yes, I've had a few, and they generally go off with their tails between their legs after I rip into them. I don't need the money from my work, to be honest, to have to save some idiots wallet a second time.
The Shop
http://trickeng.com/
Get a quote from him and compare to buying a different one.
The initial pic is after I did minor cleanup/de-burring of the chain wear. There were smear ridges/fold overs that were packed with grease.
Bearuno, thanks for the tips! Oh yes, the entire bike is getting a complete teardown/rebuild. The axles were shot as well, but no other "surprises" thus far. I already purchased a new OEM unit for $330 and have it on hand. Not too bad.
I am with ya on the sockets, etc. I also have some stainless shim stock I can wrap around sockets to get a precise fit to protect the seal area from excess weld/material ingress. Good idea on just a slip fit on the bearing outer to maintain circumference of the bearing tunnel. And the wait time...
Since I have a new one, in the spirit of the "Shade Tree Mechanic" I am going to try some Durafix rod and a MAPP torch to fill in the damage. I'll post some pics of my effort.
Sell that one to everyone that thinks it can be repaired
Bearuno, as I respect the depth of thought and detail you put forth, I have a cool prize for you. PM me your shipping address. Dunno what you can/cannot use, but free is always good. New 304's are always nice to have on hand. I'll pay for the lot. Some 03-07 RM125 pipe thingie.
WTF is wrong with this site... Hope I can attach correct pic... God help us...
Plus, I'm waaaaaaaay away in OZ.
Just sell it here to someone who needs it - there's Always someone who needs things for their scooters. And there seems to be a fair few here doing up 2ts - RMs especially.
Get a High Quality Chain Slider - TM designs have a variety of options, and plenty of other manufacturers now make replacent sliders as well.
I just try to help - whilst laying the Boot into peoples mistakes, I know. . I nearly always get criticized for going into too much detail with my posting, but I try to give enough info so things can be done / understood .
Oh my, oh my, I know. I roll TM stuff. I didn't get bit in the ass, rather caught it in flight during the sale. Upshot is all is well, and I have a full new OEM unit on hand. This "Refurbished" unit as a spare will do as well. I am a certified Master Clock builder, NAWCC... I do like to see what fellow members bring to the proverbial "repair" table.
I merely respect your well thought/concise response to possibilities of repair of a decent part needing skilled attention.
Free to the first 02'-07' RM125 rebuild thread we see. If you beat me to it, send them to me!
Shipping to OZ/UK/EU anywhere on EARTH isn't an issue if you NEED the 304... FREE.
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