Can this swinger be repaired?

YamahaJT1
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VA US
Edited Date/Time 4/14/2018 9:24am
Hmmm...

Can this swinger be repaired to a fully trustworthy/reliable state? Trash or try?







Bearing bore is still clean and undamaged.









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YamahaJT1
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2/22/2018 6:53pm Edited Date/Time 2/22/2018 7:01pm
Here is the bearing cavity...





Thrust bearing washer surfaces are reasonably proud after minor "cleanup". Bearings will seat perfectly. Stupid bastards and complete lack of maintenance. Czech yer Sliders and chain tension!

YamahaJT1
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2/22/2018 7:13pm Edited Date/Time 2/22/2018 7:21pm
So IF I were to try to repair, what are your suggestions? Durafix rod? TIG? JB Weld? I am all ears.

Help a fellow out... The vast skills of Vital MX are a resource to be reckoned with and welcomed!
mwssquad827
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Twin Falls, ID US
2/22/2018 7:56pm
I can’t weld worth a damn so... I would check craigslist/ your local buy sell trade/ eBay. I bought a complete rolling frame 08kxf 450 for $400 so my point being is look for a deal otherwise try and fix.. good luck
Bearuno
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2/22/2018 9:36pm
Unfortunately, I've lost count of the amount of repairs to damage like this that I've done over the decades.

The first thing I do is give the culprit that let such damage occur, a right royal ripping. They can't handle that, they are welcome to f**k off. To let such a thing happen, is just piss poor. Inheriting such damage for a new owner really can give them quite a concern as the the rest of the bike.

Doing it properly, If I don't have a rod / plug machined already to the right size, I get the original bearing outer, and skim / linish it to a slip fit. That holds the bearing tunnel circular, but doesn't let it take a set ( when the metal is soft, and the interference fit 'expands' it), and then have the chance of the interference fit being lost. Even if the actual welding is not that close to the bearing 'tunnel' - I just don't risk it.

The outer landing is , generally, for a seal. To minimize the amount of work I have to do, I either machine up a slip fit insert for it, or if I've an old socket that I'm not too worried about that fits nicely, I use that. and fit it in the landing Then I TIG weld it up. With a good weld (and, they are generally layered, but I try to keep welding to a minimum) I usually end up with having to do no clean up of the seal landing ID after removal of the insert / socket. Then , It's on to the external re-profiling.

The vast, Vast majority of modern Aluminium Swingarms are of a self aging / hardening type, so I usually ask the owners to let it sit for a couple of weeks - but most, I know, just put them straight back in and ride.

I've never had a repair fail, despite the foolishness of some of my customers. Now, twonkers that come back a second time with the same damage? Yes, I've had a few, and they generally go off with their tails between their legs after I rip into them. I don't need the money from my work, to be honest, to have to save some idiots wallet a second time.

The Shop

kb228
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Mansfield, OH US
2/23/2018 1:08am
Take it to a local metal shop. Have them weld it up and sand down the weld on the outside to match the radius. Then have them machine the counterbore for the seal. They should have zero problems doing this.
Radfonz
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2/23/2018 2:49am
dont even bother. its only damaged where the seal sits. new bearing. new seal.no worries
YamahaJT1
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2/23/2018 4:58am Edited Date/Time 2/23/2018 5:01am
Thanks for the replies!

The initial pic is after I did minor cleanup/de-burring of the chain wear. There were smear ridges/fold overs that were packed with grease.

Bearuno, thanks for the tips! Oh yes, the entire bike is getting a complete teardown/rebuild. The axles were shot as well, but no other "surprises" thus far. I already purchased a new OEM unit for $330 and have it on hand. Not too bad.

I am with ya on the sockets, etc. I also have some stainless shim stock I can wrap around sockets to get a precise fit to protect the seal area from excess weld/material ingress. Good idea on just a slip fit on the bearing outer to maintain circumference of the bearing tunnel. And the wait time...

Since I have a new one, in the spirit of the "Shade Tree Mechanic" I am going to try some Durafix rod and a MAPP torch to fill in the damage. I'll post some pics of my effort.
526
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Colgate, WI US
2/23/2018 6:04am Edited Date/Time 2/23/2018 12:34pm
Anything can be repaired but at what cost find a good used one and be confident in your bike IMO

Sell that one to everyone that thinks it can be repaired Smile
YamahaJT1
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2/25/2018 5:36pm
Bearuno wrote:
Unfortunately, I've lost count of the amount of repairs to damage like this that I've done over the decades. The first thing I do is give...
Unfortunately, I've lost count of the amount of repairs to damage like this that I've done over the decades.

The first thing I do is give the culprit that let such damage occur, a right royal ripping. They can't handle that, they are welcome to f**k off. To let such a thing happen, is just piss poor. Inheriting such damage for a new owner really can give them quite a concern as the the rest of the bike.

Doing it properly, If I don't have a rod / plug machined already to the right size, I get the original bearing outer, and skim / linish it to a slip fit. That holds the bearing tunnel circular, but doesn't let it take a set ( when the metal is soft, and the interference fit 'expands' it), and then have the chance of the interference fit being lost. Even if the actual welding is not that close to the bearing 'tunnel' - I just don't risk it.

The outer landing is , generally, for a seal. To minimize the amount of work I have to do, I either machine up a slip fit insert for it, or if I've an old socket that I'm not too worried about that fits nicely, I use that. and fit it in the landing Then I TIG weld it up. With a good weld (and, they are generally layered, but I try to keep welding to a minimum) I usually end up with having to do no clean up of the seal landing ID after removal of the insert / socket. Then , It's on to the external re-profiling.

The vast, Vast majority of modern Aluminium Swingarms are of a self aging / hardening type, so I usually ask the owners to let it sit for a couple of weeks - but most, I know, just put them straight back in and ride.

I've never had a repair fail, despite the foolishness of some of my customers. Now, twonkers that come back a second time with the same damage? Yes, I've had a few, and they generally go off with their tails between their legs after I rip into them. I don't need the money from my work, to be honest, to have to save some idiots wallet a second time.
Ya WIN!
YamahaJT1
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2/25/2018 6:35pm Edited Date/Time 2/25/2018 8:07pm
Not even close to finished... My bud failed on photos... LOL! Dead batteries... I am very old school, but my jeans look like carbon bits. Rock!


Bearuno, as I respect the depth of thought and detail you put forth, I have a cool prize for you. PM me your shipping address. Dunno what you can/cannot use, but free is always good. New 304's are always nice to have on hand. I'll pay for the lot. Some 03-07 RM125 pipe thingie.
YamahaJT1
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2/25/2018 7:22pm Edited Date/Time 2/25/2018 7:26pm
Bearuno... Dug into the depths of the bunker... 02'-07' RM125 Pro Circuit 304 to be specific.

WTF is wrong with this site... Hope I can attach correct pic... God help us...

YamahaJT1
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2/25/2018 7:32pm
FUCK... Damned stupid site. Anyhoo, PM me if ya can put it to use.



Bearuno
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AU
2/25/2018 7:57pm
YamahaJT1 - no need for presents.

Plus, I'm waaaaaaaay away in OZ.

Just sell it here to someone who needs it - there's Always someone who needs things for their scooters. And there seems to be a fair few here doing up 2ts - RMs especially.

Get a High Quality Chain Slider - TM designs have a variety of options, and plenty of other manufacturers now make replacent sliders as well.

I just try to help - whilst laying the Boot into peoples mistakes, I know. Whistling . I nearly always get criticized for going into too much detail with my posting, but I try to give enough info so things can be done / understood .
YamahaJT1
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2/25/2018 8:37pm Edited Date/Time 2/25/2018 9:25pm
Bearuno wrote:
[b]YamahaJT1 [/b] - no need for presents. Plus, I'm waaaaaaaay away in OZ. Just sell it here to someone who needs it - there's Always someone...
YamahaJT1 - no need for presents.

Plus, I'm waaaaaaaay away in OZ.

Just sell it here to someone who needs it - there's Always someone who needs things for their scooters. And there seems to be a fair few here doing up 2ts - RMs especially.

Get a High Quality Chain Slider - TM designs have a variety of options, and plenty of other manufacturers now make replacent sliders as well.

I just try to help - whilst laying the Boot into peoples mistakes, I know. Whistling . I nearly always get criticized for going into too much detail with my posting, but I try to give enough info so things can be done / understood .
I know you are in OZ. I just thought you'd like a bit of OG "kit" to hook up some of your "locals". International brethren. I RIDE RED.

Oh my, oh my, I know. I roll TM stuff. I didn't get bit in the ass, rather caught it in flight during the sale. Upshot is all is well, and I have a full new OEM unit on hand. This "Refurbished" unit as a spare will do as well. I am a certified Master Clock builder, NAWCC... I do like to see what fellow members bring to the proverbial "repair" table.

I merely respect your well thought/concise response to possibilities of repair of a decent part needing skilled attention.

Free to the first 02'-07' RM125 rebuild thread we see. If you beat me to it, send them to me!

Shipping to OZ/UK/EU anywhere on EARTH isn't an issue if you NEED the 304... FREE.
YamahaJT1
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Location
VA US
4/14/2018 9:24am
RM125 Pro Circuit 304 Factory Sound has been donated to fellow member DerickYZ for his RM125 build.

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