Posts
566
Joined
12/17/2009
Location
WV
US
Edited Date/Time
1/17/2021 5:34pm
Warning: long post ahead!
GOAL: To build a Vapor Blaster out of materials I have on my plantation, while only spending 200 dollars.
First a bit of definition.
Sandblasting - "Sand blasting, also known as abrasive blasting, is a generic term for the process of smoothing, shaping and cleaning a hard surface by forcing solid particles across that surface at high speeds, the effect is similar to that of using sandpaper, but provides a more even finish with no problems at corners or crannies. Sandblasting can occur naturally, usually as a result of particles blown by wind causing aeolian erosion, or artificially, using compressed air".
Wet Blasting - "The wet abrasive blasting process uses water as the fluid moving the abrasives. The advantages are that the water traps the dust produced, and lubricates the surface. The water cushions the impact on the surface, reducing the removal of material".
Vapor Blasting - "In this process, pressurized air is added to the water in the nozzle producing a high speed mist, called "vapor". This process is even milder than wet blasting, allowing mating surfaces to be cleaned while retaining their ability to mate. " The above from Wiki.
I have been restoring bikes for several years for my own consumption. Each year I have upped my game insofar as machinery used in the process. From a lathe to Zinc plating and everything in between, the end goal is to have the outcome be pleasing to the eye.
I have mulled over the purchase of a vapor blaster for a couple years. It all boiled down to the price. Seems like nothing out there for less than 4 or 5 thousand dollars. Way out of my price range. Lately I watched some DIY videos of peeps making their own from $550 to over a thousand. I wanted to go super cheap in price while still producing the desired finish. So I set my goal at two hundred dollars.
I do have the large industrial Harbor Freight blasting cabinet. It took over duties from the HF 40# cabinet, which has been taking up space in my shop, unused. This will be the bones of my Vapor Blast cabinet.
Yes I am starting out with the cabinet in my possession. If you had to purchase the cabinet, HF occasionally has a 30% off coupon which would only add 132 dollars to the price. Acceptable, in my eyes.
I watched these videos as research for my Bill of materials:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePNZ27eQzDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnCGT7mhGmE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oFn034YtD0
There are many videos out there for the above research. Watch several and take the best bits and incorporate it into your build.
I am going to break this build into 6 parts:
The cabinet
Air delivery
Water/media delivery
Electrical
Miscellaneous
Accessories
Prepping the cabinet.
Take your cabinet of choice and take it apart for waterproofing. I used a tube of Black Jack Neoprene Super Flash Cement between all joints. I did not want to use any type of silicone. If one wants to paint what you blasted, silicone is a no no. Be warned, this Black Jack Product is messy on the hands. But it does stay flexible and watertight up to 30 years.
I replaced all fasteners in the cabinet. This is not necessary as you can reuse the stock fasteners that came with the cabinet. The stock fasteners are undersized for the holes drilled, and are just, in my eyes, wimpy. I used 6mm bolts with a built in washer, which I picked up at my local dealers bolt bucket. These bolts are used on motorcycle crates. I also used 8mm bolts from the same bucket. I had the nuts and back up washers in my bolt stash. Lets call this an upgrade.
Second upgrade was the installation of 10-32 rivnuts (nutserts) in place of the nuts that hold down the glass. It is a PITA to take the glass holder off the cabinet. Aluminum rivnuts makes this process a breeze. Again not necessary for the blasting process. Accessory #2.
Now you should have a waterproof cabinet that we can start to outfit for Vapor Blasting! Chill out with a cold beverage and let the sealant dry overnight.
BILL OF MATERIALS
cabinet - https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-capacity-floor-blast-cabinet-68893…
Caulk - https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/waterproofin… $7.99
UPGRADES
Fasteners from your local motorsickle dealer - free -
Aluminum Rivnuts https://www.ebay.com/itm/113376534345 $14.00/100
GOAL: To build a Vapor Blaster out of materials I have on my plantation, while only spending 200 dollars.
First a bit of definition.
Sandblasting - "Sand blasting, also known as abrasive blasting, is a generic term for the process of smoothing, shaping and cleaning a hard surface by forcing solid particles across that surface at high speeds, the effect is similar to that of using sandpaper, but provides a more even finish with no problems at corners or crannies. Sandblasting can occur naturally, usually as a result of particles blown by wind causing aeolian erosion, or artificially, using compressed air".
Wet Blasting - "The wet abrasive blasting process uses water as the fluid moving the abrasives. The advantages are that the water traps the dust produced, and lubricates the surface. The water cushions the impact on the surface, reducing the removal of material".
Vapor Blasting - "In this process, pressurized air is added to the water in the nozzle producing a high speed mist, called "vapor". This process is even milder than wet blasting, allowing mating surfaces to be cleaned while retaining their ability to mate. " The above from Wiki.
I have been restoring bikes for several years for my own consumption. Each year I have upped my game insofar as machinery used in the process. From a lathe to Zinc plating and everything in between, the end goal is to have the outcome be pleasing to the eye.
I have mulled over the purchase of a vapor blaster for a couple years. It all boiled down to the price. Seems like nothing out there for less than 4 or 5 thousand dollars. Way out of my price range. Lately I watched some DIY videos of peeps making their own from $550 to over a thousand. I wanted to go super cheap in price while still producing the desired finish. So I set my goal at two hundred dollars.
I do have the large industrial Harbor Freight blasting cabinet. It took over duties from the HF 40# cabinet, which has been taking up space in my shop, unused. This will be the bones of my Vapor Blast cabinet.
Yes I am starting out with the cabinet in my possession. If you had to purchase the cabinet, HF occasionally has a 30% off coupon which would only add 132 dollars to the price. Acceptable, in my eyes.
I watched these videos as research for my Bill of materials:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePNZ27eQzDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnCGT7mhGmE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oFn034YtD0
There are many videos out there for the above research. Watch several and take the best bits and incorporate it into your build.
I am going to break this build into 6 parts:
The cabinet
Air delivery
Water/media delivery
Electrical
Miscellaneous
Accessories
Prepping the cabinet.
Take your cabinet of choice and take it apart for waterproofing. I used a tube of Black Jack Neoprene Super Flash Cement between all joints. I did not want to use any type of silicone. If one wants to paint what you blasted, silicone is a no no. Be warned, this Black Jack Product is messy on the hands. But it does stay flexible and watertight up to 30 years.
I replaced all fasteners in the cabinet. This is not necessary as you can reuse the stock fasteners that came with the cabinet. The stock fasteners are undersized for the holes drilled, and are just, in my eyes, wimpy. I used 6mm bolts with a built in washer, which I picked up at my local dealers bolt bucket. These bolts are used on motorcycle crates. I also used 8mm bolts from the same bucket. I had the nuts and back up washers in my bolt stash. Lets call this an upgrade.
Second upgrade was the installation of 10-32 rivnuts (nutserts) in place of the nuts that hold down the glass. It is a PITA to take the glass holder off the cabinet. Aluminum rivnuts makes this process a breeze. Again not necessary for the blasting process. Accessory #2.
Now you should have a waterproof cabinet that we can start to outfit for Vapor Blasting! Chill out with a cold beverage and let the sealant dry overnight.
BILL OF MATERIALS
cabinet - https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-capacity-floor-blast-cabinet-68893…
Caulk - https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/waterproofin… $7.99
UPGRADES
Fasteners from your local motorsickle dealer - free -
Aluminum Rivnuts https://www.ebay.com/itm/113376534345 $14.00/100
EDIT: I have been informed where the edit function is hiding.
Pic that should have been included in the above post.
Fasteners & waterproofing
Lets continue with the build...
AIR DELIVERY
Keep in mind that as of this writing I have not fired up this cabinet. Hopefully this works out as planned!
Items on hand:
Air compressor - 3.7 HP 60 gallon vertical. 11.5 SCFM @ 90 psi, 13.4 @ 40.
Dryer/Regulator - Sharpe 606A
With having a compressor and the dryer/regulator, the only item to address is getting the compressed air inside the cabinet and some form of on-off valve.
I used the stock air fitting (bulkhead fitting) that goes through the cabinet. I did add a 90 degree fitting on the outside for less hose stress. Inside the cabinet, on the opposite end of the bulkhead fitting, I added a 3/8"mpt x 1/2" barbed fitting with a stainless hose (worm) clamp. This fitting will connect to a length (26") of 1/2"ID hose that will go to the gun.
90 degree fitting on the bulkhead fitting
The other end of the bulkhead fitting
Time to talk about air valves. There are several ways to valve the air leading into the gun. The most common is the foot valve. Press the valve down with your foot and blast away. This works excellent with dry blasting, but becomes more complicated with vapor blasting because you have, or should, valve the water/media mix too. High end cabinets have both valved. Whymee's cabinet incorporates the KISS principal (keep it stupidly simple). I am going to turn on the pump with a switch (to be elaborated on later) and the air regulated with a simple ball valve right before the gun.
The opposite end of the 26" 1/2" ID hose coming from the bulkhead fitting is married to a 1/2" ball valve with the use of a hose clamp. A short piece of hose connects the ball valve to the gun with 2 more clamps. The fitting that comes with the gun is of the correct size for the hose I used.
The ball valve is from Home Depot. It is full port.
The Gun I selected was purchased off eBay.
This completes the air delivery segment.
BILL OF MATERIALS
AIR DELIVERY
1 3/8"MPT x 5/8" barbed fitting, nylon. Home Depot $2.27 (I prefer brass $3.78)
Air Hose - Lowes 5/8" ID, 20' long. 'bout $20.00
10 pack hose clamps, stainless Home Depot $8.94
1/2" Brass Ball Valve - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-2-in-Brass-Insert-Poly-Ball-Valve-… $6.85
Gun - https://www.ebay.com/itm/133581991006 $40.99
(Thanks for posting this)
Gun - https://www.ebay.com/itm/133581991006 $40.99
The Shop
The heart of any vapor cabinet is the water (trash) pump. This particular pump is 1.5hp, 4300 GPH, 120v. Should be more than enough to supply the media to the gun.
Items on hand:
PVC glue & primer
Agitator Construction:
Cut a 27" piece of 3/4" vinyl tubing. Insert one end into one side of the barbed "T". Insert 2 hose clamps over the tube.The other end of the tubing connects opposite of the end you just inserted. Tighten clamps with the leg of the "T" pointing up. Test fit in your bucket of choice before moving on with construction.
Items needed for agitator:
3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" nylon "T" (could use brass)
27" - 3/4" vinyl tubing. Length will vary with bucket size.
2 hose clamps
Manifold Construction:
Use Teflon tape on the 1" threads of the output of the pump (black fitting). Screw on the 1.25" slip x 1"FPT. Dry test fit the other fittings. Mark orientation. Make sure the 90 degree 3/4" fitting is pointed to, and in line with, the "T" fitting of the agitator. Prime & glue up the fittings. Install the 1/2"MPT x 5/8" barbed fitting opposite of the pump output.
Also see pic below for further explanation.
Items needed for manifold:
1-1/4" SCH40 "T"
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 1" FPT bushing (pump output)
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 1/2" FPT bushing (output to gun)
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 3/4" FPT bushing (output to agitator)
1/2" MPT x 5/8" barbed brass fitting. (output to gun)
Final assembly:
Set the agitator on the bench. put the pump inside the agitator. If your dry fit is correct, the output of the pump "T" and the agitator "T" should line up. Cut a piece pf 3/4" vinyl tubing 8" long and fasten the two "T's" together with 2 hose clamps. I used 3 stand offs made for conduit on the agitator. Zip tie instead of using a metal fastener. Position equal space around the vinyl tubing. This completes the construction of the pump assembly.
With one exception, Agitator holes:
One of my videos above (the middle one), the guy goes in great depth on sizing holes for the agitator. They need to be sized correctly as to not take too much flow away from the output of the pump, but still stir up the media/water mixture. The dude looks "out there" but the video is a must watch. You want to drill 14 3/16" holes at various points, spaced equally around the manifold. They need to be pointing down as well as toward the pump. Possibly some straight up. What ever it takes to keep the glass beads in suspension. Total guess work on my part. Hey if my orientation is incorrect I am only out some time and about a buck. I am going to drill 5 pointed down, 5 pointed to the pump (90 degrees from the ones I just drilled) and 5 pointing straight up (180 degrees from the first set I drilled), 15 total holes.
EDIT: I am starting off with eight holes. 4 pointed down and 4 pointed to the pump. I can always enlarge, or drill more.
Now you are really done with the pump assembly!
Bill of Materials
Water Pump - https://www.ebay.com/itm/132314015745 $59.89
agitator
3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" nylon "T" (could use brass) $4.31
27" - 3/4" vinyl tubing. Length will vary with bucket size. $2.25
2 hose clamps (10pk bought earlier)
manifold
1-1/4" SCH40 "T" $1.97
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 1" FPT bushing (pump output) $1.51
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 1/2" FPT bushing (output to gun) $1.45
1-1/4" SCH40 slip x 3/4" FPT bushing (output to agitator) $1.59
1/2" MPT x 5/8" barbed brass fitting. (Pump output) $4.21
3/4" MPT x 3/4" barbed nylon elbow $3.59
All of my electronics are 12v. I put an LED light bar for a car on top of the cabinet. Works great.
Agitator isnt exactly required. The pump does all of the work. When i had an agitator i found it got clogged up after the media settled. Maybe bigger outlet holes will solve that.
If you are speaking of ALL your electrics, you are incorrect. You should have an electric 120V AC pump. Yes the rest of the electrics can be 12-24VDC. Mine will follow this pattern.
Nice to know that the agitator might not be needed. But I can see where it would help keep the media in suspension, which should give faster cleaning times.
Thanks for the comments! Keep them coming, pro or con!
Whymee
The design isnt about being minimal. The extra electronics keep water and media out of your compressor. Even if you had regular manual valves the media can still destroy them and they wont seal
By now you should have your pumping assembly sitting in your bucket ready to rock!
We need to attach the pump to the gun.
In my instance, I added bracketry and wheels to my cabinets legs, letting the cabinet be mobile. In doing this, I have provided a place for my bucket to sit and function. I cut a piece of plywood and installed it on the brackets. Very sano.
With the bucket under the dump flap area (flap removed) snake a length of 5/8" ID tubing between the gun and the bucket, going through the bottom of the cabinet. I popped above the removable screen right beside the air inlet (right front corner) after I removed approx. a 4"x 4" from that corner of the screen. Cut and secure with 2 hose clamps. Zip tie the two hoses together. I did have to replace the media fitting on the gun with a 1/2"MPT x 5/8" barbed brass fitting.
We have the air and media delivery all finished. With the exception of the electrics for the pump.
Note: I did remove the dump flap brackets.
Bill of Materials
length of 5/8 ID vinyl tubing
1/2"MPT x 5/8" barbed brass fitting $4.21
Electrical Part 1
My electrics are going to be very simple.
Need 120V to the pump
Need 12V to the lights inside the cabinet.
That is it. (at this point)
I bought a new 5 gallon bucket with lid, white, Ace Hardware brand.
I anticipate that the media slurry dropping out of the cabinet, as it is recycling, can, and will be very messy. To combat this, stretch a length of inner tube over the bottom of the cabinet, where the dump flap used to be, making sure that it will fit into the big hole that you are just about to drill in the bucket lid. This big hole can also be used to route the pump electrical cord. Yes you should have installed the inner tube before the tubing to the gun. You just made the same tiny mistake that I did!
Note: Try to use a one piece inner tube. Less cracks mean less mess.
Bill of Materials
Bucket with lid $6.60
Although this has not been completed, this is my plan. I will edit if need be. Waiting on the brown truck to deliver more goodies.
Lets finish up the electrical.
The plan is to run the pumps electrical cord into a box that is attached to the cabinet. Same for the lights power supply.
Each will have their own switch. The box will be powered by plugging into a wall, like an extension cord would be.
I will then run the output of the power supply (12VDC) into the cabinet to power the LED lights.
This light is 3x3", 18W ,1.8A@12V, 1500 lumens X2
The power supply for the light is 5A @ 12V
The plan is to use magnets to hold the light up in the corners. We will see how that will play out.
Bill of Materials
LED lights https://www.ebay.com/itm/133623219932 $15.79
12VDC Power Supply https://www.ebay.com/324202198623 $7.04
Air Pressure Going to start at 40psi and work up from there. What ye say?
Media
I built the Vapor Cabinet to clean and refinish aluminum pieces parts. If anyone has a media recommendation I am all ears. Virgin here...
I am trying Glass Beads for the first time.
GLASS BEAD #9 - Fine - 25 lbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264915243594 $27.95
Water to glass bead ratio? What is the ratio and how much water to start out with? I am going to try 2 gallons & 2 cups of beads. Comments?
Clean viewing area
Those of you that have dry blasted in a cabinet, I am sure that you have messed with the thin Mylar sheet that protects the viewing glass. This sheet has to be replaced every few hours of blasting time. What about the glass in a vapor cabinet? I have read where you have to replace the glass, as the Mylar sheet is not compatible with the water being thrown around. I assume because water will get between the glass & the Mylar and make viewing impossible. At the very least, a trip to Lowes is in order to have them cut me a couple spare glass pieces. Right now I am using the stock glass that came with the HF cabinet. I probably will try a Mylar sheet, just for shits & giggles.
Along the same line as above, I have also seen where some peeps have adapted a windshield wiper to keep the inside clean. Motorized, even. Thoughts?
Anything else that I am missing? I would appreciate the comments!!
Heres the glass beads you want to use.
Blast Media, Glass Beads, Extra Fine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00867RC50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_CcmbGb…
I have many hours on my window and theres no scratching. The water protects it. I have the HF cabinet too. A wiper would be nice. I use a squeegee. Its annoying but super cheap.
Id suggest a 12” light bar. I had the pods at first and they werent bright enough.
As for lighting, I also think the pod won't be enough and a light bar would be better. This is what I ordered, it's also 110v
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264790041367
As for the nozzle, if the eBay one doesn't end up working out great, you could try making your own, which will end up being better quality following those plan
https://armoury-enterprises.myshopify.com/products/diy-vapor-blasting-g… (you can also buy a complete already built nozzle from the same guy)
For the exhaust vent, we will be using a bathroom fan instead of a vacuum
Just throwing some ideas, love seeing yours too
For anyone needing cheap replacement:
12” x 24” Tempered Glass
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