Bearings spinning in case

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8/1/2017 6:56 PM

I'm rebuilding a bike for a friend, 01 cr250r and the transmission shafts bearings are spinning in the cases. One of them I can almost just drop it in, I'm considering using .002 shim stock around the bearing to give it a press fit again. He doesn't want to buy new cases as it's just his mess around bike, so what I'm wondering is, is there an alternative to shimming it or would that be best route? I've measured the hole and bearing so I know what shim to use but thought I'd ask around since I would just buy new..

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8/1/2017 7:23 PM

Check with Bearing Services as they have a tube of material made just for this issue. I used it a few years ago in some heavy equipment bearings and it worked great with no issues. I just can't recall the name of the stuff.

Paw Paw

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8/1/2017 7:32 PM

OK sweet I'll look them up. Thank you

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8/1/2017 8:03 PM

Loctite has a product called Bearing Lock. Its made to hold bearing in place.

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8/1/2017 8:08 PM

Jterry wrote:

Loctite has a product called Bearing Lock. Its made to hold bearing in place.

I thought they had something but have never done this b4 so I wasn't for sure. Thanks

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8/2/2017 3:31 AM

Jterry wrote:

Loctite has a product called Bearing Lock. Its made to hold bearing in place.

Loctite has heaps of bearing retaining compounds all are rather good.

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8/2/2017 5:11 AM

Loctite 609 I think, they have several retaining compounds. I have considered loctite for a few projects with issues similar to yours. I just had an older Rm 250 case repaired by a motorcycle machine shop, crank bearing pocket worn, the owner/ machinists stated for the crank bearings the loctite products would not hold up, forces of crankshaft to great, he machined a press fit insert for the case, then used loctite retaining compound on the insert also. I also have a 96 Cr project going on, if your bearing is spinning on the left side case...ignition side, near the clutch actuation arm, inspect the pocket area for spider cracks, the left side cases for these bikes are NLA & appear to be failing from this issue, I just bought some eBay cases that looked good, but I"m having the left side tested for cracks before I reassemble the engine again. Let us know how you make out & what loctite product you use....

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8/2/2017 11:29 AM

I support the shim stock idea as loctite deactivates with heat and you dont want that shit in your transmission. The bearing lock works good for a lot of applications but theres better solutions for motors.

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2009 Kawasaki KX450F
2009 Kawasaki KX250F
2002 Suzuki GSXR 600

8/2/2017 4:31 PM

I'm a machinist and have worked in industrial machine shops where we would make bearing blocks for steel mills. We made the bearing blocks and the shafts that roll the melted steel into plate. We always used Loctite 640 I believe is the high temp bearing lock.

The Loctite 609 is the lowest grade bearing retainer that they make. And it has a working temp of up 300* and then it still takes about 400* to come loose. The engine will never get that hot and if it does your bearings are the last of your worries. 609 will also fill a gap of up to .010 which is way larger than what you have now.

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8/2/2017 5:37 PM

I really appreciate all of the info, I talked to the bike owner and he wants to try the shim first I'm going to throw cases in oven at 400 degrees and try to get the shim stock in with the bearings. I've done this with rear wheel bearings on a ktm 65 and it worked great so we will see

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8/2/2017 7:19 PM

No problem. Let us know how it works out.

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8/3/2017 9:29 AM

Arent they supposed to be somewhat able to move since they dont have any other way of removing them?

Every motor Ive rebuilt had a few trans bearings that I could take in and out by hand.

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8/3/2017 11:49 AM

rmoto003 wrote:

Arent they supposed to be somewhat able to move since they dont have any other way of removing them?

Every motor Ive rebuilt had a few trans bearings that I could take in and out by hand.

Really? I've always seen them pressed in, and if it's loose enough it'll spin in the case and that's not good. All bearings should be press fit, from my understanding

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8/3/2017 12:52 PM

ktm-5 wrote:

Really? I've always seen them pressed in, and if it's loose enough it'll spin in the case and that's not good. All bearings should be press fit, from my understanding

Im talking about the bearings that bottom out against a solid wall of the case. No way to get behind the bearing to remove it, so they arent pressed in. Im not sure if this is 100% correct, its just what ive noticed through all the motor rebuilds Ive done.

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8/3/2017 1:16 PM

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Thats y they have blind bearing pullers. This is used for the bearing that is pressed in against a solid wall of the case.
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8/3/2017 3:26 PM

rmoto003 wrote:

Arent they supposed to be somewhat able to move since they dont have any other way of removing them?

Every motor Ive rebuilt had a few trans bearings that I could take in and out by hand.

Those motors had ragged out cases...blind bearing pullers are used to remove the bearings you describe

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Many thanks to everyone helping me out this GNCC season: SRT Offroad, Acerbis, FCR Suspension, O'Neal Racing, Evans Waterless Coolants, Rekluse, Twin Air, Braking Brakes, Carbsport

Profile image credit Ken Hill Photography

8/6/2017 8:59 AM

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Well it worked out perfect. Just need to trim extra shim and I'll be done
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8/7/2017 7:48 PM

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All set worked out great now it's time to assemble it...thanks for all the help
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