Basic RM250 Enduro/Woods Mods

Softer suspension settings will also help make it more easier to ride.

www.karlzracing.com

Suspension setup, a fmf gnarly pipe should help keep the power a bit more tame and give some torqut. I'd suggest a 11oz flywheel weight, 13 is just too big in my opinion. My usual woods gearing is 13/51. Maybe look into a Scott's steering stabilizer to keep things more steady. They don't really affect your steering until you hit something and really need the help. Look into a rekluse clutch also, not only does it keep you from killing it, but it actually changes the power delivery and cuts out the twitchy feeling of a two stroke (I don't like it for that reason, but for what you're wanting it sounds ideal).

On my 07 I had a 11oz FWW, PC works pipe with shorty and a Vforce. I had the cylinder ports cleaned up but nothing major. Also had a Rekluse clutch pack in it. I dont remember the gearing I ran but I think it was 13/51 and of course suspension. I regret getting rid of my RM as it was arguably the best bike Ive ever ridden in the woods, it was just getting too hard to find parts for.

For comfort I ran an 18" rear and had RG3 rubber mounted clamps with PT 1-1/8 bars.

Of all the mods, I feel the Rekluse made the biggest difference, when you start to get tired and remind yourself you dont need to pull the clutch its so easy just to lug around.

Thanks for the advice guys!
I will start with the FWW and look around for a Gnarly pipe. I have an R-304 but cant imagine the shorty silencer being good for enduro as it makes the bike even more snappy?

I also have a Rekluse clutch system from my RMZ450 (which I'm not using) which will fit into the 250 so will definitely try that as well.

Will report back with any progress.

RussB wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys!
I will start with the FWW and look around for a Gnarly pipe. I have an R-304 but cant imagine the shorty silencer being good for enduro as it makes the bike even more snappy?

I also have a Rekluse clutch system from my RMZ450 (which I'm not using) which will fit into the 250 so will definitely try that as well.

Will report back with any progress.

Russ, Please report back about the FWW. I'm extremely curious to know if you'll like it, as I'm thinking about getting one for my 05 (for MX use though).

RussB wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys!
I will start with the FWW and look around for a Gnarly pipe. I have an R-304 but cant imagine the shorty silencer being good for enduro as it makes the bike even more snappy?

I also have a Rekluse clutch system from my RMZ450 (which I'm not using) which will fit into the 250 so will definitely try that as well.

Will report back with any progress.

And longer silencer will help you. FMF turbine core should be good for woods/enduro riding. Stocker is pretty good too.

Little update........
Not tested anything as of yet but will be this weekend.

I'm going to fit the 13oz FWW.
I also picked up an FMF Q Stealth Silencer. It's massive! Nearly 2 inches longer than the stocker. It looks pretty ridiculous but I think it will work well.
I'm also going to add 1/4 - 1/2 of a turn more tension onto the powervalve spring to delay the opening and smooth the power.

I'm hoping to test this before I go to my next enduro race this Sunday. So will report back if I get chance.

I still plan on fitting the Rekluse clutch but would like to spend a day at a practice track with it first before going straight to an enduro race with it

The Rekluse that you would put in the RM is as simple as it gets but you will need new stock clutch fibers and make sure the basket is mint. you just put it in, use the band provided to set the lever tension and boom your good to go. If you didnt know it had a Rekluse you would never notice it other than the lever pull is different as there will be constant pressure on the cable. I ran my Rekluse in my RM a full season and never adjusted it one time.

On the flip side, I have the full kit on my YZ and it was a huge PITA to get adjusted because you have to pull the clutch cover off every time but now that I have it set it works flawlessly.

10oz FWW, stock pipe/silencer, and vforce 3 reeds are a good combo. When I got my RM it was setup by a woods rider. Forget what gearing I had think it was 13/52 very smooth powerband.

Unfortunately I didn't get to test the set up before the enduro, but I'm pleased to report that the set up worked really well!
I can't pinpoint which mod made the most difference but I expect the 13oz FWW had the biggest effect. Then the combination of the silencer and 1/4 turn more preload on the powervalve spring really tamed the hit and made the transition into the power a lot smoother and more manageable.

I finished 54th out of a total of 144 riders, which I'm pretty damn happy with considering this was only my 2nd ever enduro!

Definitely need to sort the suspension next. Motocross valving on a 3 hour enduro race is just brutal. I'm sore today!

mattman631 - I really wish I'd have fitted the rekluse now! I have experience with it from using it on my 450 but just had a bad feeling about taking an untested clutch system to a race. Plus I am unsure of fibre and basket condition as I haven't opened up this clutch yet. But it will definitely be the next thing I do with the bike as it will make the bike even better

Hi Russ, I'm also trying to convert an mx bike for HH here in the UK. I couldn't help notice you were referring to the last CEC race at LLansilin. I should have been there but my bike wasn't ready. Hopefully I'll be at the next one at Tyn Twll in a couple of weeks. I was at Enduroland on Sunday trying out a new bike, but the mx suspension really beat me up. It was almost unrideable at any kind of speed. Any tips for setting up an RMZ250 with kyb air fork for HH would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah it was Llancilin I rode at, awesome place! Will definitely do another round there.
I won't be at Tyn Twll though unfortunately.

I've got 0 experience with RMZ250's. I've never owned or even rode one. So don't have much knowledge with the KYB air forks either.

I do have an RMZ450. Although I've never done an enduro on it. I would definitely recommend experimenting with the engine mounts, particularly the upper mounts. Remove one of the 2 bolts that screw into the frame on each side. This allows the mount to twist and flex a little, which will help soften the feel of the frame and take the edge out of the nasty stuff. I often do this on my RMZ at choppy, hardpack tracks and find it makes a difference.

I would also recommend going up 1-2 teeth on the rear sprocket to help with the lower speeds of enduro. Run thick tubes or mouses. and a set of handguards are always nice as well.

Hi again Russ. Done the basics, bash plate, hand guards etc. I think the gearing is ok, in fact I was thinking of going the other way to give it a bit more top speed, the bike seems to pull really well off the bottom. My main concern is the suspension. I might have to talk to a professional. I noticed that karlzracing posts on here, so maybe I'll start a thread and see if he knows much about it. I had a shock spring off him last week. I think I noticed that you came 5th in sportsman? we would have been swapping places if I was there because that's usually where I finish or thereabouts.(4th last time out at Long Compton). Thanks anyway.

Nick.

I'd definitely recommend taking your suspension to a shop. Getting the correct springs is always the best place to start, but the main issue with the suspension is the valving. MX valving is just far too firm for enduro. I rode my RM at 20 clicks out on compression front and rear, but it was still too firm.

Yep that was me! I will be doing more Cotswold enduros so will no doubt see you at one soon enough.