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Gilbert, AZ
US
Edited Date/Time
6/3/2017 5:16am
My brother has a 2012 CRF450R and is wondering if he can put in regular car oil. Fully synthetic 10w-30/40. Will anything work? Any specifics he should stay away from? Or better off to use motorcycle oil?
For the engine, yes an automotive oil will work. I don't find it to be a great option, but it'll work. If he is racing, a motorcycle specific oil that is friction modified for engines without wet clutches (meeting JASO MB specs) would be the best option. Best of both worlds in my humble opinion.
Personally I've been using shell rotella T 10/30 Diesel engine oil for almost 4-5 years now in all my bikes. Works great and reccomended by many.
The Shop
The engine can use a friction modified oil and would benefit from doing so.
Motor oil with modifiers in bikes with single sump: NO.
Motor oil with modifiers in bikes with dual sumps: YES (on the motor side).
Run it in all my Honda's, 06-17 bikes.
Highly recommend. And to boot, it's easy on the wallet
Automobile oils have additives that are extremely "slippery." This is for fuel economy in cars. Good for cars, bad for motorcycle clutches. You could use that in the engine side of the older CRFs, but not in the transmission side.
The rule of thumb is this: if it's going to touch the clutch, get a motorcycle oil.
Derek Harris recommended using it as he uses it in all his builds. On his dyno the mobile 1 makes more power than just about any other oil as well especially rotella.
A 5W-30 will definitely make more power than a 10W-40. This is because the oil is thinner at operating temperature and causes less fluid drag on the engine. Yamaha makes one specifically for this purpose, although it's a 15W-30.
Yes I know why a certain oil viscosity will make more power than another of a different viscosity. I was just stating what he told me. And it was that Mobile 1 makes more power than just about every other oil he tested especially rotella.
Probably just fine, but it's thin viscosity worries me.
Especially in a strung out 250f
Pit Row
In my CRF's?
HP4 WITH Moly in the cam side, and Rotella in the clutch side.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com.au/service-and-parts/Genuine%20Parts%20and%…
The API grades build upon each other, so any classification after SM would have the same results (SN, for instance.)
As was mentioned earlier, I wouldn't nessesary follow what a pro riders mech was using.
I know their bikes need to be reliable, but just for one round. If the oil gives a slight power advantage, that's gunna be their choice. The bike will be torn down and rebuilt for the next race anyway.
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