2019 KTM 350sxf Air fork

Oleary465
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I am riding a ktm 350 and are finding the air forks are just beating the snot out of me. I am not sure if they are way to stuff or to soft. I used the sliding thing on the travel portion of the fork and it is showing I am using the full travel. We have tried softening/stiffening and nothing has helped.

Anything tips would help!
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Oleary465
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3/21/2021 11:13am
Oleary465 wrote:
I am riding a ktm 350 and are finding the air forks are just beating the snot out of me. I am not sure if they...
I am riding a ktm 350 and are finding the air forks are just beating the snot out of me. I am not sure if they are way to stuff or to soft. I used the sliding thing on the travel portion of the fork and it is showing I am using the full travel. We have tried softening/stiffening and nothing has helped.

Anything tips would help!
Forks and rear shock both sprung and revalved by factory connection.
StevenMX
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3/21/2021 12:06pm
Just going through the basics... height/weight, have you checked the SAG and spring to see if that is set up to your weight first? Then adjust out the forks, etc.

What PSI are you running? What are your clickers at, etc? Just going off the fact you are using full travel of the forks are you bottoming out, riding it on track, trail, etc? I would be inclined only on that piece of information to say you need to stiffen the suspension, but again, need to check the other things first.
Oleary465
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3/21/2021 12:13pm
StevenMX wrote:
Just going through the basics... height/weight, have you checked the SAG and spring to see if that is set up to your weight first? Then adjust...
Just going through the basics... height/weight, have you checked the SAG and spring to see if that is set up to your weight first? Then adjust out the forks, etc.

What PSI are you running? What are your clickers at, etc? Just going off the fact you are using full travel of the forks are you bottoming out, riding it on track, trail, etc? I would be inclined only on that piece of information to say you need to stiffen the suspension, but again, need to check the other things first.
I am riding it on moto, sag is good, spring rate is set. Running 140 psi and these are my settings I was told to try...

138 psi no higher than 142
10comp
20 rebound

Shock
12 low speed comp
1 1/2 high speed
15 rebound

Leeham
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3/21/2021 12:17pm
Make sure your front end is put together right. What I mean the forks arent being put in crooked and not inline with each other. Makes the forks incredibly harsh.
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The Shop

AE448
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3/21/2021 12:34pm Edited Date/Time 3/21/2021 12:35pm
Take all the above info first, but you could also stiffen the forks up and get to the point where you aren't bottoming out. You need to experiment. I've found that sometimes your suspension can feel too hard when it's actually caused by being too soft, and visa versa. Check that rebound too, make sure the bike isn't packing (too slow), which will make your bike feel real harsh. If its rebounding too quickly you'll almost have a similar feeling, but the bike won't want to sit on the ground in the rough stuff! Make sure forks and shock are balanced. If your forks are OK but shock is way off, it will affect the forks too...
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StevenMX
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3/21/2021 12:40pm Edited Date/Time 3/21/2021 12:42pm
Good point Leeham... so loosen the pinch bolts on the forks and double check fork alignment. If it's binding that could be your issue.

How many hours, etc. are on this bike for you? I'd be inclined to say go back to stock settings from the manual to get back to baseline.

Step 1: Sag: 35mm/105mm for resting no weight and then rider... won't hurt to double check everything

Step 2: Fork PSI: I'm not sure why you were told only go up to 142 psi when the stock factory manual psi setting is at 150. It's dependent on rider but from 130-156+... my 21 250sx manual for instance states up to 174 max... I'm sitting at stock 151psi on mine at 165lbs dry weight without gear. Once you go around the track (go back to stock PSI) with the forks having 1-1/2" of room left (give yourself a margin of safety to bottom out) of travel using your fork slider then you have your Air PSI in the ballpark.

Step 3: Now you adjust the clickers to fine tune.

Step 4: Check the balance of the suspension as well.. plenty of good youtube videos describe this. But when you are off the bike, and you push down, making sure your bike's front and rear are "balanced" when being compressed. You don't want the front or rear being too stiff or soft (out of balance) when pushing down. I.E. the front not compressing and the back of the bike dropping or vice versa.

I'm no expert though, just what I've read up/learned so take that for what it is Smile .
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Oleary465
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3/21/2021 3:45pm
StevenMX wrote:
Good point Leeham... so loosen the pinch bolts on the forks and double check fork alignment. If it's binding that could be your issue. How many...
Good point Leeham... so loosen the pinch bolts on the forks and double check fork alignment. If it's binding that could be your issue.

How many hours, etc. are on this bike for you? I'd be inclined to say go back to stock settings from the manual to get back to baseline.

Step 1: Sag: 35mm/105mm for resting no weight and then rider... won't hurt to double check everything

Step 2: Fork PSI: I'm not sure why you were told only go up to 142 psi when the stock factory manual psi setting is at 150. It's dependent on rider but from 130-156+... my 21 250sx manual for instance states up to 174 max... I'm sitting at stock 151psi on mine at 165lbs dry weight without gear. Once you go around the track (go back to stock PSI) with the forks having 1-1/2" of room left (give yourself a margin of safety to bottom out) of travel using your fork slider then you have your Air PSI in the ballpark.

Step 3: Now you adjust the clickers to fine tune.

Step 4: Check the balance of the suspension as well.. plenty of good youtube videos describe this. But when you are off the bike, and you push down, making sure your bike's front and rear are "balanced" when being compressed. You don't want the front or rear being too stiff or soft (out of balance) when pushing down. I.E. the front not compressing and the back of the bike dropping or vice versa.

I'm no expert though, just what I've read up/learned so take that for what it is Smile .
Thank you for the tips, I am only 145lbs without gear.
Oleary465
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3/21/2021 3:48pm
StevenMX wrote:
Good point Leeham... so loosen the pinch bolts on the forks and double check fork alignment. If it's binding that could be your issue. How many...
Good point Leeham... so loosen the pinch bolts on the forks and double check fork alignment. If it's binding that could be your issue.

How many hours, etc. are on this bike for you? I'd be inclined to say go back to stock settings from the manual to get back to baseline.

Step 1: Sag: 35mm/105mm for resting no weight and then rider... won't hurt to double check everything

Step 2: Fork PSI: I'm not sure why you were told only go up to 142 psi when the stock factory manual psi setting is at 150. It's dependent on rider but from 130-156+... my 21 250sx manual for instance states up to 174 max... I'm sitting at stock 151psi on mine at 165lbs dry weight without gear. Once you go around the track (go back to stock PSI) with the forks having 1-1/2" of room left (give yourself a margin of safety to bottom out) of travel using your fork slider then you have your Air PSI in the ballpark.

Step 3: Now you adjust the clickers to fine tune.

Step 4: Check the balance of the suspension as well.. plenty of good youtube videos describe this. But when you are off the bike, and you push down, making sure your bike's front and rear are "balanced" when being compressed. You don't want the front or rear being too stiff or soft (out of balance) when pushing down. I.E. the front not compressing and the back of the bike dropping or vice versa.

I'm no expert though, just what I've read up/learned so take that for what it is Smile .
Oleary465 wrote:
Thank you for the tips, I am only 145lbs without gear.
The bike also has around 35 hrs on it
wrc777
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I would try raising pressure and see if that helps. Hard to believe you are bottoming out at 145 lbs but 140 psi is an xc setting.
Brent
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3/21/2021 5:32pm Edited Date/Time 3/21/2021 6:02pm
the problem with that fork is that it is very harsh on the mid stroke.

I own the exact same bike, and ultimately I had a mid valve installed by Kreft Moto which made a huge improvement on braking and acceleration square edge bumps and chop. KTM knows this and has made improvements to their newer 2021 fork.

your fork is great for big hits, but square edge stuff will just beat you up because the fork does not work well on chop in stock form, no matter how much it is adjusted.

If you don't want to modify the fork right now, then the best advice I can give is to back out the compression adjuster to 20 and raise the air pressure to 10.6 bar.

as you mentioned, there is a black o ring on the right fork leg, set it to the top of the slider and go ride where you normally do, then see where the O ring is on the fork leg after your ride.

the ideal setting is if the o ring is about 2 inches from the fork lug, then you know you have the correct air pressure for the fork and then you can proceed to experiment with the compression and rebound adjusters to fine tune the feel.

It can take a few riding sessions and a lot of experimentation to get the fork to work for you, but unfortunately because of a lack of a proper mid valve on the fork from that year, it will always beat you up even at the optimal setting.
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Motofinne
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4/5/2021 3:29am Edited Date/Time 4/5/2021 3:30am
The pressure that you got recommended is very, very low for a 350. My guess is that you're riding way too deep in the stroke and that is where you get the AER harshness.
soggy
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4/5/2021 6:20am
Motofinne wrote:
The pressure that you got recommended is very, very low for a 350. My guess is that you're riding way too deep in the stroke and...
The pressure that you got recommended is very, very low for a 350. My guess is that you're riding way too deep in the stroke and that is where you get the AER harshness.
FC did some work on them and I wouldn’t be surprised if they have them set up to run a lower pressure. If they told him to run at a lower pressure there is probably a reason
Motofinne
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4/5/2021 6:41am
Motofinne wrote:
The pressure that you got recommended is very, very low for a 350. My guess is that you're riding way too deep in the stroke and...
The pressure that you got recommended is very, very low for a 350. My guess is that you're riding way too deep in the stroke and that is where you get the AER harshness.
soggy wrote:
FC did some work on them and I wouldn’t be surprised if they have them set up to run a lower pressure. If they told him...
FC did some work on them and I wouldn’t be surprised if they have them set up to run a lower pressure. If they told him to run at a lower pressure there is probably a reason
Yeah i was about to add that. That is probably the case, but it still sounds weird to be that low with the pressure.
mark_swart
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4/6/2021 10:28am
I think I would try WAY out on compression -- like 25. I just put Gold Valves in my 17.5 AER on my 450, RT recommended 10 out but in order to get them feel like they were moving in the initai part of the stroke, I went way out on compression also. And I run my air around 140 (165lb rider, but I like a compliant fork).

If you are noticing the harshness on slap-down landings, I am beginning to think this is just an air fork attribute that may not be fixable. But your forks are more advanced than my version.
soggy
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mark_swart wrote:
I think I would try WAY out on compression -- like 25. I just put Gold Valves in my 17.5 AER on my 450, RT recommended...
I think I would try WAY out on compression -- like 25. I just put Gold Valves in my 17.5 AER on my 450, RT recommended 10 out but in order to get them feel like they were moving in the initai part of the stroke, I went way out on compression also. And I run my air around 140 (165lb rider, but I like a compliant fork).

If you are noticing the harshness on slap-down landings, I am beginning to think this is just an air fork attribute that may not be fixable. But your forks are more advanced than my version.
Harshness on slap down on these bikes has been attributed to the Nekken bars as well as the billet clamps. If you haven’t changed either of those try a pro taper evo bar first
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Yzf916
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4/6/2021 12:44pm
I went with MXA settings and liked them the most. I weigh 170 without gear. Fork. Air 140-144psi. Reb. 15. Comp. 25 out. . Shock. Reb. 11 out. Comp. 15 out. Softer than I’ve read elsewhere. But worked best for me.
Bruce372
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4/6/2021 12:58pm
If your forks are harsh on slap down landings, the shock is probably under sprung/damped.

Air forks seem to highlight a poor shock setting than spring IMO
wrc777
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4/6/2021 1:54pm
mark_swart wrote:
I think I would try WAY out on compression -- like 25. I just put Gold Valves in my 17.5 AER on my 450, RT recommended...
I think I would try WAY out on compression -- like 25. I just put Gold Valves in my 17.5 AER on my 450, RT recommended 10 out but in order to get them feel like they were moving in the initai part of the stroke, I went way out on compression also. And I run my air around 140 (165lb rider, but I like a compliant fork).

If you are noticing the harshness on slap-down landings, I am beginning to think this is just an air fork attribute that may not be fixable. But your forks are more advanced than my version.
soggy wrote:
Harshness on slap down on these bikes has been attributed to the Nekken bars as well as the billet clamps. If you haven’t changed either of...
Harshness on slap down on these bikes has been attributed to the Nekken bars as well as the billet clamps. If you haven’t changed either of those try a pro taper evo bar first
I have a ‘21 gasgas ex300 and between the forged clamps and updated fork it doesn’t have much sting on slap downs even with the Neken.
soggy
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wrc777 wrote:
I have a ‘21 gasgas ex300 and between the forged clamps and updated fork it doesn’t have much sting on slap downs even with the Neken.
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps which I’ve read are the same as gas gas I’m going to give them a try

wrc777
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4/6/2021 2:03pm
wrc777 wrote:
I have a ‘21 gasgas ex300 and between the forged clamps and updated fork it doesn’t have much sting on slap downs even with the Neken.
soggy wrote:
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps...
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps which I’ve read are the same as gas gas I’m going to give them a try

If you get those clamps ktm sells a bracket for the factory hour meter. The meter will not bolt to the forged clamps. I have heard the ‘21 ktms have less slap down harshness too so the clamps are not the whole story.
soggy
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wrc777 wrote:
I have a ‘21 gasgas ex300 and between the forged clamps and updated fork it doesn’t have much sting on slap downs even with the Neken.
soggy wrote:
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps...
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps which I’ve read are the same as gas gas I’m going to give them a try

wrc777 wrote:
If you get those clamps ktm sells a bracket for the factory hour meter. The meter will not bolt to the forged clamps. I have heard...
If you get those clamps ktm sells a bracket for the factory hour meter. The meter will not bolt to the forged clamps. I have heard the ‘21 ktms have less slap down harshness too so the clamps are not the whole story.
Yea it’s definitely not all of it but I have a spring conversion in now so bars and then clamps are my next move when I feel like it’s affecting me enough.
dbx33
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4/7/2021 6:44pm
wrc777 wrote:
I have a ‘21 gasgas ex300 and between the forged clamps and updated fork it doesn’t have much sting on slap downs even with the Neken.
soggy wrote:
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps...
That’s what I’ve heard and it’s the biggest comfort issue I have on my 19 350. When I find a good deal on some xcw clamps which I’ve read are the same as gas gas I’m going to give them a try

Ive got a set of new GG clamps & bar mounts for 280
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captmoto
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4/8/2021 11:36pm Edited Date/Time 4/8/2021 11:38pm
soggy wrote:
Yea it’s definitely not all of it but I have a spring conversion in now so bars and then clamps are my next move when I...
Yea it’s definitely not all of it but I have a spring conversion in now so bars and then clamps are my next move when I feel like it’s affecting me enough.
Did you go with a SSF spring set up or KYB internals, cone valves? I did a Racetech SFF conversion on my 17 FC450. Made a significant difference for me. It took the sting out of my wrists and it makes the front end more planted in turns and chop going into corners.
soggy
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4/9/2021 7:21pm
soggy wrote:
Yea it’s definitely not all of it but I have a spring conversion in now so bars and then clamps are my next move when I...
Yea it’s definitely not all of it but I have a spring conversion in now so bars and then clamps are my next move when I feel like it’s affecting me enough.
captmoto wrote:
Did you go with a SSF spring set up or KYB internals, cone valves? I did a Racetech SFF conversion on my 17 FC450. Made a...
Did you go with a SSF spring set up or KYB internals, cone valves? I did a Racetech SFF conversion on my 17 FC450. Made a significant difference for me. It took the sting out of my wrists and it makes the front end more planted in turns and chop going into corners.
Yea it’s just the SFF conversion. It works pretty well in my opinion. Much better then stock but not as plush as Mx tech lucky carbon setup. Did you install a gold valve as well? That’s likely my next move.
captmoto
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4/10/2021 9:13pm
soggy wrote:
Yea it’s just the SFF conversion. It works pretty well in my opinion. Much better then stock but not as plush as Mx tech lucky carbon...
Yea it’s just the SFF conversion. It works pretty well in my opinion. Much better then stock but not as plush as Mx tech lucky carbon setup. Did you install a gold valve as well? That’s likely my next move.
I already had the Gold Valves. I'm happy enough with the spring conversion.
soggy
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soggy wrote:
Yea it’s just the SFF conversion. It works pretty well in my opinion. Much better then stock but not as plush as Mx tech lucky carbon...
Yea it’s just the SFF conversion. It works pretty well in my opinion. Much better then stock but not as plush as Mx tech lucky carbon setup. Did you install a gold valve as well? That’s likely my next move.
captmoto wrote:
I already had the Gold Valves. I'm happy enough with the spring conversion.
Did you reconfigure the shim stack when you went to spring?
captmoto
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4/11/2021 5:38pm
soggy wrote:
Did you reconfigure the shim stack when you went to spring?
I asked RT about that and they said there was no need.
soggy
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4/12/2021 7:04am Edited Date/Time 4/12/2021 7:04am
captmoto wrote:
I asked RT about that and they said there was no need.
That’s interesting. I would think with the different spring rate curve would benefit from reconfiguring the shim stack but I’m no valving/suspension expert. Thanks for the info.
wrc777
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There is an interview somewhere with a wp employee and he explains that air definitely needs different valving than spring.
soggy
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wrc777 wrote:
There is an interview somewhere with a wp employee and he explains that air definitely needs different valving than spring.
Yea I think it’s the inside line podcast that was posted on here a week or two ago

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