2019/2018.5 ktm airbox mod

dannyboy123
Edited Date/Time 11/28/2018 11:01pm
Does anyone have any photos of the mod to open up the airbox on the 2019 or 2018.5 ktms. Also were mapping adjustments required?
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blaze 57
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blaze 57 8/24/2018 7:59pm
8/24/2018 7:59pm
You can either cut off or drill holes in that side flap thing on the right side of the air filter access cover. Its located on the inner part of the filter cover. It blocks a lot of air from coming through that right side of the cover. I have the FMF full exhaust and screen-less filter. Bumped my TPS to .63 and Tokyo Mods re-mapped the ECU. 2018 450 factory edition. You probably won't have to re-map other than checking your TPS to make sure its .60 at least.
dannyboy123 8/25/2018 12:13pm
8/25/2018 12:13pm
Thanks, I will take a look. I have been trying to find a part number for a plug so I can make a tps tool to check it out.
Digger29
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Digger29 8/27/2018 9:17am
8/27/2018 9:17am
dannyboy123 wrote:
Thanks, I will take a look. I have been trying to find a part number for a plug so I can make a tps tool to...
Thanks, I will take a look. I have been trying to find a part number for a plug so I can make a tps tool to check it out.
Rather drilling holes in the cover I cut the rib off of on the inside of the airbox to get more airflow. I've done it to both of my 300SX's and all 4 of my 450FE's. Definitely bump the TPS to at least .60. I've got mine at .63 and it runs awesome.



4
dannyboy123 8/27/2018 10:00am
8/27/2018 10:00am
dannyboy123 wrote:
Thanks, I will take a look. I have been trying to find a part number for a plug so I can make a tps tool to...
Thanks, I will take a look. I have been trying to find a part number for a plug so I can make a tps tool to check it out.
Digger29 wrote:
Rather drilling holes in the cover I cut the rib off of on the inside of the airbox to get more airflow. I've done it to...
Rather drilling holes in the cover I cut the rib off of on the inside of the airbox to get more airflow. I've done it to both of my 300SX's and all 4 of my 450FE's. Definitely bump the TPS to at least .60. I've got mine at .63 and it runs awesome.



Thanks for that. What procedure do you use for setting the TPS? Is it reading 0.63 with the bike not started and throttle closed?

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Digger29
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Digger29 8/27/2018 3:09pm
8/27/2018 3:09pm
Yes, plug the TPS tool and keep backing the idle out until the numbers on the meter stop going down. Most of them that I've done stop right around .40 and then bump the setting at least .60-61. It's a trial and error type of thing. Keep starting the bike and it should start with the a tap of the button and then should rev noticeably quicker and without any stumbles or hesitation. Then lock everything down and you're done. Most of mine have ended up at .63-64 but I'm running a 2 stroke filter cage, full FMF system and Renegade SX4 fuel.
dannyboy123 8/27/2018 9:23pm
8/27/2018 9:23pm
Digger29 wrote:
Yes, plug the TPS tool and keep backing the idle out until the numbers on the meter stop going down. Most of them that I've done...
Yes, plug the TPS tool and keep backing the idle out until the numbers on the meter stop going down. Most of them that I've done stop right around .40 and then bump the setting at least .60-61. It's a trial and error type of thing. Keep starting the bike and it should start with the a tap of the button and then should rev noticeably quicker and without any stumbles or hesitation. Then lock everything down and you're done. Most of mine have ended up at .63-64 but I'm running a 2 stroke filter cage, full FMF system and Renegade SX4 fuel.
So at which point do you need to turn the idle back up? I just thought I would plug in the tps tool and wind the tps until the reading is .60?
Digger29
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Digger29 8/28/2018 8:25am
8/28/2018 8:25am
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
atrdrvr7
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atrdrvr7 8/28/2018 9:35am
8/28/2018 9:35am
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
Did you remap your ECU? Thanks for the guide with the TPS. Mine was at .53 from the factory. Bumped it to .63. Haven't ridden it yet but it starts so much easier. Just one tap of the start button.
dannyboy123 8/28/2018 9:36am
8/28/2018 9:36am
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
So the plan is.

1. Mark where my idle is set currently.
2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS
3. Adjust TPS to between .60 - .63
4. Adjust idle screw back to where it was before
5. Start bike and fine tune idle down a touch to approx 2000 - 2200.


Does that sound right?
Thanks for the help by the way.
Digger29
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Digger29 8/28/2018 10:27am
8/28/2018 10:27am
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
atrdrvr7 wrote:
Did you remap your ECU? Thanks for the guide with the TPS. Mine was at .53 from the factory. Bumped it to .63. Haven't ridden it...
Did you remap your ECU? Thanks for the guide with the TPS. Mine was at .53 from the factory. Bumped it to .63. Haven't ridden it yet but it starts so much easier. Just one tap of the start button.
Yes, I had it dyno tuned by the Motolab and it was worth every penny because you can see the changes and improvements while he's tuning it. We also ran my Renegade SX4 against VP's T4 and we also did a few pulls with my stock header to compare it with the FMF header.
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Digger29 8/28/2018 10:31am
8/28/2018 10:31am
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
dannyboy123 wrote:
So the plan is. 1. Mark where my idle is set currently. 2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS 3. Adjust TPS...
So the plan is.

1. Mark where my idle is set currently.
2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS
3. Adjust TPS to between .60 - .63
4. Adjust idle screw back to where it was before
5. Start bike and fine tune idle down a touch to approx 2000 - 2200.


Does that sound right?
Thanks for the help by the way.
Yes and that's exactly how I should've instructed you how to do it because that definitely sounds easier the way you wrote than the way I did. You got this. Good luck :-)
1
dannyboy123 8/28/2018 10:41am
8/28/2018 10:41am
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
atrdrvr7 wrote:
Did you remap your ECU? Thanks for the guide with the TPS. Mine was at .53 from the factory. Bumped it to .63. Haven't ridden it...
Did you remap your ECU? Thanks for the guide with the TPS. Mine was at .53 from the factory. Bumped it to .63. Haven't ridden it yet but it starts so much easier. Just one tap of the start button.
Digger29 wrote:
Yes, I had it dyno tuned by the Motolab and it was worth every penny because you can see the changes and improvements while he's tuning...
Yes, I had it dyno tuned by the Motolab and it was worth every penny because you can see the changes and improvements while he's tuning it. We also ran my Renegade SX4 against VP's T4 and we also did a few pulls with my stock header to compare it with the FMF header.
Was the header much different? I'm going to fit the end silencer (my original one has a funny waffle thing in it). Just not sure if the header is worth it
Digger29
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Digger29 8/28/2018 12:59pm
8/28/2018 12:59pm
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at over 50hp than the stock header but in the long run it's probably not worth it. The FMF can is way better than the stock can and definitely is worth it.
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Tonynz
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Tonynz 8/30/2018 1:12am
8/30/2018 1:12am
I just did a quick fix for weekend, can still cover it in case it rains.
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Tonynz 8/30/2018 1:19am
8/30/2018 1:19am
Tonynz wrote:
I just did a quick fix for weekend, can still cover it in case it rains.

blaze 57
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blaze 57 8/30/2018 8:41am
8/30/2018 8:41am
Looks good. That area definitely would block air. I noticed on mine it took forever for the filter to get dirty so then I wondered if the air box design was too closed off? Appears it was because now my filter gets dirty much faster by a large degree after the air box mod. It is now breathing.
Paul_Pitzonka
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Paul_Pitzonka 8/30/2018 1:52pm
8/30/2018 1:52pm
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
dannyboy123 wrote:
So the plan is. 1. Mark where my idle is set currently. 2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS 3. Adjust TPS...
So the plan is.

1. Mark where my idle is set currently.
2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS
3. Adjust TPS to between .60 - .63
4. Adjust idle screw back to where it was before
5. Start bike and fine tune idle down a touch to approx 2000 - 2200.


Does that sound right?
Thanks for the help by the way.
I always set the idle first then adjust the TPS... because increasing/decreasing the idle will change the TPS setting...
1
dannyboy123 8/30/2018 2:19pm
8/30/2018 2:19pm
Digger29 wrote:
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once...
You'll actually need to turn the idle back up to start it or you'll have to hold the throttle partially open (which I don't recommend). Once you've got the idle reset to I think 2000 you'll be good to go. All of it is actually way easier than I'm making it sound and should take you no more than 20mins from start to finish. You're bike will run totally different and SO much better after the adjustment.
dannyboy123 wrote:
So the plan is. 1. Mark where my idle is set currently. 2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS 3. Adjust TPS...
So the plan is.

1. Mark where my idle is set currently.
2. Adjust idle until readings dont go any lower on TPS
3. Adjust TPS to between .60 - .63
4. Adjust idle screw back to where it was before
5. Start bike and fine tune idle down a touch to approx 2000 - 2200.


Does that sound right?
Thanks for the help by the way.
Paul_Pitzonka wrote:
I always set the idle first then adjust the TPS... because increasing/decreasing the idle will change the TPS setting...
If you change the tps setting it adjusts the idle aswell. I think it's just a balancing act
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blaze 57
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blaze 57 8/30/2018 4:58pm
8/30/2018 4:58pm Edited Date/Time 8/30/2018 4:59pm
Digger29 wrote:
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at...
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at over 50hp than the stock header but in the long run it's probably not worth it. The FMF can is way better than the stock can and definitely is worth it.
What was your total or highest HP/RPM output?
Digger29
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Digger29 8/31/2018 9:26am
8/31/2018 9:26am
Digger29 wrote:
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at...
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at over 50hp than the stock header but in the long run it's probably not worth it. The FMF can is way better than the stock can and definitely is worth it.
blaze 57 wrote:
What was your total or highest HP/RPM output?
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms when we did a few runs with the FMF header against my stock header. I've seen most all of his KTM 450 and Husky charts and mine actually had more HP stock then the other bikes ended up having tuned. I've got a good one.
1
blaze 57
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blaze 57 8/31/2018 1:20pm
8/31/2018 1:20pm Edited Date/Time 8/31/2018 1:21pm
Digger29 wrote:
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at...
The FMF header made .75 HP and had more on top than the stock header. I do like that it revved about 800 rpms further at over 50hp than the stock header but in the long run it's probably not worth it. The FMF can is way better than the stock can and definitely is worth it.
blaze 57 wrote:
What was your total or highest HP/RPM output?
Digger29 wrote:
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms...
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms when we did a few runs with the FMF header against my stock header. I've seen most all of his KTM 450 and Husky charts and mine actually had more HP stock then the other bikes ended up having tuned. I've got a good one.
Holy crap that is almost 59 hp. Insane amount of power on a 220lb + bike. Especially the way these bikes are so smooth and easy to ride.
mx317
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mx317 8/31/2018 1:28pm
8/31/2018 1:28pm
On Digger29's advice, I had The Motolab in CT re-map my ECU on my Rockstar Husky. It's hard for me to say what helped the most because I put on a FMF muffler (no header) and drilled the airbox at the same time. He told me to save my money on the FMF header and just use the muffler. All I know is that engine is smooth and strong and has the feel I was searching for.
Digger29
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Digger29 8/31/2018 4:27pm
8/31/2018 4:27pm
blaze 57 wrote:
What was your total or highest HP/RPM output?
Digger29 wrote:
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms...
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms when we did a few runs with the FMF header against my stock header. I've seen most all of his KTM 450 and Husky charts and mine actually had more HP stock then the other bikes ended up having tuned. I've got a good one.
blaze 57 wrote:
Holy crap that is almost 59 hp. Insane amount of power on a 220lb + bike. Especially the way these bikes are so smooth and easy...
Holy crap that is almost 59 hp. Insane amount of power on a 220lb + bike. Especially the way these bikes are so smooth and easy to ride.
No shit huh?? I was very impressed especially because I was there when he did my buddy's 18.5 450 and another buddy's new Rockstar 450 and my bike crushed theirs numbers wise. I'm borrowing a buddy's new Vortex ECU done by Twisted Development for the weekend. Heard so much good stuff about them. Taking the weekend off and going to MX207 to see what they've done up there in preparation for the Racer X event up there in 2 wks.
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mx317 8/31/2018 4:41pm
8/31/2018 4:41pm
Fill us in on the Vortex! He sent me this dyno chart.

mx317
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mx317 8/31/2018 4:46pm
8/31/2018 4:46pm


This is how I did my Husky.
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Digger29
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Digger29 8/31/2018 5:00pm
8/31/2018 5:00pm
mx317 wrote:
Fill us in on the Vortex! He sent me this dyno chart. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/08/31/284418/s1200_image.jpg[/img]
Fill us in on the Vortex! He sent me this dyno chart.

Will do. I just off of the phone with them and they all but guaranteed me that I'm going to very happy with their ECU.
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blaze 57
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blaze 57 9/1/2018 7:00pm
9/1/2018 7:00pm
Digger29 wrote:
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms...
It went from 56.23 to 58.77 after the tuning. I don't see the RPM's on my chart but I remember it gaining right around 800 rpms when we did a few runs with the FMF header against my stock header. I've seen most all of his KTM 450 and Husky charts and mine actually had more HP stock then the other bikes ended up having tuned. I've got a good one.
blaze 57 wrote:
Holy crap that is almost 59 hp. Insane amount of power on a 220lb + bike. Especially the way these bikes are so smooth and easy...
Holy crap that is almost 59 hp. Insane amount of power on a 220lb + bike. Especially the way these bikes are so smooth and easy to ride.
Digger29 wrote:
No shit huh?? I was very impressed especially because I was there when he did my buddy's 18.5 450 and another buddy's new Rockstar 450 and...
No shit huh?? I was very impressed especially because I was there when he did my buddy's 18.5 450 and another buddy's new Rockstar 450 and my bike crushed theirs numbers wise. I'm borrowing a buddy's new Vortex ECU done by Twisted Development for the weekend. Heard so much good stuff about them. Taking the weekend off and going to MX207 to see what they've done up there in preparation for the Racer X event up there in 2 wks.
YES! definitely do a write-up on the Vortex and what the various maps do. I have a used Vortex (10 maps) here right now that came off a guy's 18' 450. Not sure how it would work on my 18.5 Factory Edition? It was originally mapped for his 18' 450 KTM. He told me to just plug it in and try it but I want to send it to Twisted and have their maps for my 18.5 installed first.
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kdub84 9/5/2018 1:03pm
9/5/2018 1:03pm
Waiting on the Vortex ride report Digger! Curious if it’s worth the extra dinero or if I should just get the stock ecu remapped. Thank you!!
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will ktm
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will ktm 9/5/2018 5:24pm
9/5/2018 5:24pm
Hello, if you can help me, I want to make that TPS mod to my bike but I have never done it and I do not have the idea how to do what the procedure would be like
dannyboy123 9/5/2018 9:51pm
9/5/2018 9:51pm
will ktm wrote:
Hello, if you can help me, I want to make that TPS mod to my bike but I have never done it and I do not...
Hello, if you can help me, I want to make that TPS mod to my bike but I have never done it and I do not have the idea how to do what the procedure would be like
Hi, What bike do you have?

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