2018 YZ450F Is my ecu bad?

jbyrd494
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jbyrd494
Edited Date/Time 4/4/2019 11:48am
So i left my battery disconnected from my bike for 2 weeks(duh) and obviously it didnt have a charge when i reconnected it to the bike, so i decided i was going to jump it with a battery charger(big duh).

Well it turns out that when i put the charger on the battery i had the ground wire and the wire that is supposed to run from the starter relay to the starter motor swapped. So when i put power to them my fuel pump turned on and my launch control light started flickering and going dim and the bike wouldnt turn over(obviously). I immediately took the battery charger off and took the battery out the bike and tossed it.

So now i have a brand new battery in the bike and when i hooked it up and hit the starter the bike just turned over, fuel pump didnt turn on, and no other electronics turned on (launch control, ccu, bike has no spark..) but the bike is turning over . I put 12v to the fuel pump to make sure it works and it does. replaced main relay(looked burned up but tested fine) tested all 3 diodes, tested starter relay and fuses. tested stator, tested rectifier regulator , everything is in spec.

Seeing that basically no electronics work besides the starter motor That leads me to say that its the ECU but doesnt the ECU have to communicate with the starter relay because these bikes have a tip over sensor? Was just hoping some one would have some insight on what else i can test or how i can determine if it is in-fact the ECU that is bad.

Thank you for reading
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kdawson252
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kdawson252 2/13/2019 8:04pm
2/13/2019 8:04pm
Do you have a service manual? I would think there is a fuse or fusible link somewhere that is toast. Unless for some reason Yamaha didn't put a fuse in for protection.
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/14/2019 7:24am
2/14/2019 7:24am
Yes i have a service manual, that is where i got the specs to test what i have so far. The only 2 fuses the bike bike seems to have are both located on the starter relay. Both 15a, one is in use and one is a spare. tested both of them they both checked out ok. I also tried putting in the spare just to be sure. My first guess was the main relay but i replaced it and tested the new one . But power is not getting to the main relay so i am just trying to decipher this wiring diagram and find my break in the line. I am not very electronically inclined to say the least. Should have stuck with the ol kickstarter and i would be fine!
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/14/2019 7:28am
2/14/2019 7:28am
Heres the wiring diagram and the corresponding numbers. Not sure how well the pic will blow up on the PC.



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kdawson252
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kdawson252 2/14/2019 9:26pm
2/14/2019 9:26pm
Start at the battery and follow the power. The relay should have battery power on both of the red wires. It should receive a ground from the ECM on the blue wire to activate the relay. Then power will be sent to the brown wire. If your not receiving a ground signal on the blue wire, then test all of the powers and grounds at the ECM itself. If you are receiving a ground signal on the blue wire but the 12v is not being transfered to the brown wire, then the relay is bad. Which wire at the main relay are you not getting power on?
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jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 11:14am
2/15/2019 11:14am
I have power to all the red wires on the main relay. The ground on the blue wire is activated whenever i actuate the starter switch. When i test the brown wire without the starter switch actuated it reads 12v initially then immediately starts to drop volts quickly but whenever i actuate the starter switch the brown wire holds at 12v+. I can hook the relay up and hold it in my hand while actuating the starter button and feel and hear the relay clicking in my hand. So they main relay and starter relay check out but still when i hit the starter button, the fuel pump , ccu , launch control, none of them turn on like they should. :thinking:
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 12:27pm
2/15/2019 12:27pm
kdawson252 wrote:
Start at the battery and follow the power. The relay should have battery power on both of the red wires. It should receive a ground from...
Start at the battery and follow the power. The relay should have battery power on both of the red wires. It should receive a ground from the ECM on the blue wire to activate the relay. Then power will be sent to the brown wire. If your not receiving a ground signal on the blue wire, then test all of the powers and grounds at the ECM itself. If you are receiving a ground signal on the blue wire but the 12v is not being transfered to the brown wire, then the relay is bad. Which wire at the main relay are you not getting power on?
Ok first off just found out the fuel pump is getting full voltage from the red and blue wire but whenever i put my tester on the black and yellow wire instead of just grounding it i get 0 volts. So the black and yellow wire is not grounding out on the fuel pump. I just went and tripled check all my test from earlier and all of the red wires are putting full voltage to the relay (13.3v). The blue wire reads 12.8 volts. BUT then the brown wire is only getting 11.8 volts . So that means the brown wire is only sending 11.8 volts to the ccu and everything else down the line. Is that enough to cause my issue? Does everything have to get over 12 volts and the 11.8 isnt enough to get them to turn on? Thank you for your help so far and i look forward to your reply
pkiczuk
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pkiczuk 2/15/2019 12:34pm
2/15/2019 12:34pm Edited Date/Time 2/15/2019 12:37pm
If your getting 12V on the brown wire with out the relay being energized, even if the voltage drops quickly, then you have a bad relay. The clicking is just the coil being energized, but you should not get 12v on that brown wire at all if the relay is not being energized. Most relays in these applications only need about 150mA to activate, it's possible there is a spike suppression diode internally on the relay across the coils that got fried when you connected the cables backwards. Good luck man!
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 5:12pm
2/15/2019 5:12pm
pkiczuk wrote:
If your getting 12V on the brown wire with out the relay being energized, even if the voltage drops quickly, then you have a bad relay...
If your getting 12V on the brown wire with out the relay being energized, even if the voltage drops quickly, then you have a bad relay. The clicking is just the coil being energized, but you should not get 12v on that brown wire at all if the relay is not being energized. Most relays in these applications only need about 150mA to activate, it's possible there is a spike suppression diode internally on the relay across the coils that got fried when you connected the cables backwards. Good luck man!
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 5:13pm
2/15/2019 5:13pm
pkiczuk wrote:
If your getting 12V on the brown wire with out the relay being energized, even if the voltage drops quickly, then you have a bad relay...
If your getting 12V on the brown wire with out the relay being energized, even if the voltage drops quickly, then you have a bad relay. The clicking is just the coil being energized, but you should not get 12v on that brown wire at all if the relay is not being energized. Most relays in these applications only need about 150mA to activate, it's possible there is a spike suppression diode internally on the relay across the coils that got fried when you connected the cables backwards. Good luck man!
Wow i grabbed the old relay to do the test. I just doubled check and with the new(correct one) and the brown wire gets 12v when engaged, once you release the starter button the voltage slowly drops from 4 to 0.5 or so, is that normal? or should it be immediate? Also, is there a way to test diode #2(14 on the wiring diagram) while its functioning on the bike? The manual has you test them for continuity. There is 3 of them all together (2 smaller ones that are identical and one bigger one.) The 2 smaller ones on the bike had continuity but the bigger one didnt. So i bought a new one (diode #2) and tested it right out the package and according to my test it didnt have continuity either but it was brand new out the package, so maybe there is a way to test it while on the bike? This is turning into quite the electrical nightmare.
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 5:18pm
2/15/2019 5:18pm
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it to read either way, and like i said i couldnt get a reading right out the package




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Paul_Pitzonka 2/15/2019 7:35pm
2/15/2019 7:35pm Edited Date/Time 2/15/2019 7:37pm
jbyrd494 wrote:
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it...
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it to read either way, and like i said i couldnt get a reading right out the package




some multimeters dont put out enough voltage when in diode mode to produce a reading... you could switch to ohms to test just continuity alone, I believe...
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/15/2019 7:40pm
2/15/2019 7:40pm
jbyrd494 wrote:
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it...
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it to read either way, and like i said i couldnt get a reading right out the package




Paul_Pitzonka wrote:
some multimeters dont put out enough voltage when in diode mode to produce a reading... you could switch to ohms to test just continuity alone, I...
some multimeters dont put out enough voltage when in diode mode to produce a reading... you could switch to ohms to test just continuity alone, I believe...
I tried with ohms as well and it worked on the smaller diode but not the one im having trouble getting a read on
kdawson252
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kdawson252 2/15/2019 7:46pm
2/15/2019 7:46pm
I'm kind of at a loss here. Its really hard for me to follow the diagram without being able to blow it up. i'm assmuming you are following the trouble shooting section in the manual?
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Paul_Pitzonka 2/15/2019 8:05pm
2/15/2019 8:05pm Edited Date/Time 2/15/2019 8:15pm
jbyrd494 wrote:
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it...
You can see i am getting a reading on the small diode but when i replicate the test on the bigger one i cant get it to read either way, and like i said i couldnt get a reading right out the package




Paul_Pitzonka wrote:
some multimeters dont put out enough voltage when in diode mode to produce a reading... you could switch to ohms to test just continuity alone, I...
some multimeters dont put out enough voltage when in diode mode to produce a reading... you could switch to ohms to test just continuity alone, I believe...
jbyrd494 wrote:
I tried with ohms as well and it worked on the smaller diode but not the one im having trouble getting a read on
Ok, your multimeter doesn’t have a high enough output voltage in either mode and can’t pass a current through it... if you really want to test the diode with your multimeter; you’re going to have to have an outside power source to get either a continuity or voltage drop reading... if you can activate the relay you should be able to test voltage drop across it with the diode installed...
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4csHATER
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4csHATER 2/15/2019 11:36pm
2/15/2019 11:36pm
dude please let me know if you figure this out im having the same symptoms on my sprinter van lmao
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pkiczuk
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pkiczuk 2/16/2019 5:01am
2/16/2019 5:01am
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digi… the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should still basically be the same. Im sure you tested it by doing it this way, black probe to - terminal of diode, red probe to + terminal should show you continuity(that meter should beep when theres continuity), and there should be no continuity (no beep, and display should read 0) if you connect the red probe to - terminal and black probe to + terminal. as far as the meter not having enough output voltage, that's not true. You actually have the meter set to the Diode testing function. However, I do prefer to test diodes by passing voltage through and making sure there is voltage on the + terminal when voltage is applied to the - terminal, and no voltage on the - terminal when voltage is applied to the positive terminal.

I've been a professional 12volt tech for 16 years now, and that's what I find to be the best method for testing.
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Paul_Pitzonka 2/16/2019 8:46am
2/16/2019 8:46am
pkiczuk wrote:
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should...
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digi… the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should still basically be the same. Im sure you tested it by doing it this way, black probe to - terminal of diode, red probe to + terminal should show you continuity(that meter should beep when theres continuity), and there should be no continuity (no beep, and display should read 0) if you connect the red probe to - terminal and black probe to + terminal. as far as the meter not having enough output voltage, that's not true. You actually have the meter set to the Diode testing function. However, I do prefer to test diodes by passing voltage through and making sure there is voltage on the + terminal when voltage is applied to the - terminal, and no voltage on the - terminal when voltage is applied to the positive terminal.

I've been a professional 12volt tech for 16 years now, and that's what I find to be the best method for testing.
Sorry for the incorrect info... should’ve done some deeper research... check the capacitor/ condenser... I could see that having problems with having power fed the wrong direction... and that looks like it feeds power to the CCU... I may be wrong, it’s a little hard to read you’re schematic on my phone screen...
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jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/16/2019 9:25am
2/16/2019 9:25am
pkiczuk wrote:
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should...
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digi… the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should still basically be the same. Im sure you tested it by doing it this way, black probe to - terminal of diode, red probe to + terminal should show you continuity(that meter should beep when theres continuity), and there should be no continuity (no beep, and display should read 0) if you connect the red probe to - terminal and black probe to + terminal. as far as the meter not having enough output voltage, that's not true. You actually have the meter set to the Diode testing function. However, I do prefer to test diodes by passing voltage through and making sure there is voltage on the + terminal when voltage is applied to the - terminal, and no voltage on the - terminal when voltage is applied to the positive terminal.

I've been a professional 12volt tech for 16 years now, and that's what I find to be the best method for testing.
Ok thank you i will go and test the diode now , hopefully can get a reading that way.
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jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/16/2019 9:29am
2/16/2019 9:29am
pkiczuk wrote:
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should...
here is a good link on how to properly test a diode, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digi… the diode pictured may be different looks wise, but function and testing should still basically be the same. Im sure you tested it by doing it this way, black probe to - terminal of diode, red probe to + terminal should show you continuity(that meter should beep when theres continuity), and there should be no continuity (no beep, and display should read 0) if you connect the red probe to - terminal and black probe to + terminal. as far as the meter not having enough output voltage, that's not true. You actually have the meter set to the Diode testing function. However, I do prefer to test diodes by passing voltage through and making sure there is voltage on the + terminal when voltage is applied to the - terminal, and no voltage on the - terminal when voltage is applied to the positive terminal.

I've been a professional 12volt tech for 16 years now, and that's what I find to be the best method for testing.
Paul_Pitzonka wrote:
Sorry for the incorrect info... should’ve done some deeper research... check the capacitor/ condenser... I could see that having problems with having power fed the wrong...
Sorry for the incorrect info... should’ve done some deeper research... check the capacitor/ condenser... I could see that having problems with having power fed the wrong direction... and that looks like it feeds power to the CCU... I may be wrong, it’s a little hard to read you’re schematic on my phone screen...
I was really questioning whether it could be the condenser(smoothing condenser as they call it in the manual). I have gone over all of the troubleshooting pages in the manual and they dont mention anything about the smoothing condenser( I dont think they consider someone making the mistake i did) . Does anybody know of a test that i can do to test the condenser? Also let me try to get a better picture of the wiring diagram so maybe you guys can see something i am missing (likely).
watson44
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watson44 2/20/2019 11:22am
2/20/2019 11:22am
I have the exact same issue but I have power to everything and it wont shut off. I think we both have a relay issue somewhere. Mines stuck closed and yours is stuck open. Please keep this updated and I will do the same.
watson44
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watson44 2/21/2019 7:24am
2/21/2019 7:24am
it was my ECU. Mine is stuck on. Yours might be stuck closed
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/21/2019 8:03am
2/21/2019 8:03am
watson44 wrote:
it was my ECU. Mine is stuck on. Yours might be stuck closed
Yeah i finally took it into a dealer yesterday because i felt i had exhausted every option besides the ECU and the technician confirmed it was my ECU. New one will be in on wednesday. Finally i will have this thing running again. What caused your ECU to start acting up like that?
watson44
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watson44 2/21/2019 9:26am
2/21/2019 9:26am
I hooked up a regular battery charger to it without knowing/looking to see its a lithium battery. tried hitting the button with it connected. Where did your dealer get an ECU? They are out of stock EVERYWHERE
jbyrd494
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jbyrd494 2/21/2019 7:52pm
2/21/2019 7:52pm
watson44 wrote:
I hooked up a regular battery charger to it without knowing/looking to see its a lithium battery. tried hitting the button with it connected. Where did...
I hooked up a regular battery charger to it without knowing/looking to see its a lithium battery. tried hitting the button with it connected. Where did your dealer get an ECU? They are out of stock EVERYWHERE
I looked around a few places online and they were all like 2 weeks out so i just called a different dealer where i know the parts girl and she said it would be here wednesday. Yamaha must have a small stock of them

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