2017 kx250f shock nitrogen refill.

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12/20/2018 5:58 PM

What is needed to refill the nitrogen. Looked for a video to see how its done but couldn't find anything. It doesn't have a schrader valve like my cr250 did.

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No brains, No headaches.

12/20/2018 6:42 PM

It has a needle valve, I upgraded to a RT cap just so I would have the schrader valve

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12/20/2018 6:49 PM

I have this left over one lying around $25 dollar adoption fee! lolPhoto

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12/21/2018 7:58 AM

Spudnut wrote:

I have this left over one lying around $25 dollar adoption fee! lolPhoto

I'm interested in it. However I would still need the equipment to actually refill the nitrogen. Bottle, hose, regulator, no loss chuck..... Where is a good place to get all this stuff at a reasonable price? I can do all the work to change the oil, just can't recharge the nitrogen.

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No brains, No headaches.

12/21/2018 8:05 AM

Spudnut wrote:

I have this left over one lying around $25 dollar adoption fee! lolPhoto

Keith72 wrote:

I'm interested in it. However I would still need the equipment to actually refill the nitrogen. Bottle, hose, regulator, no loss chuck..... Where is a good place to get all this stuff at a reasonable price? I can do all the work to change the oil, just can't recharge the nitrogen.

Have you tried a welding supply store?

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12/21/2018 9:02 AM

Honestly, unless you are doing lots of shocks, it's easier and way cheaper just to take it to the
local moto shop and have them charge it for you. Most places will do it, no problem, for a small fee.

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12/21/2018 10:48 AM

MTB bike pump or Fork pump works fine. (I'm not trying to side track this thread).
The air we breath is 78% nitrogen. It will work fine and its free.

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12/21/2018 2:19 PM

Thanks for all the replies. But realistically FWYT is right. I would really only replace the oil once a year maybe twice if I had the equipment.

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No brains, No headaches.

12/21/2018 4:08 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/21/2018 4:10 PM

garagedog wrote:

MTB bike pump or Fork pump works fine. (I'm not trying to side track this thread).
The air we breath is 78% nitrogen. It will work fine and its free.

It doesn't matter that the air we breath contains 78% nitrogen, it has to do with how much water is in it. Pure Nitrogen is very dry, that is why it's used in race car tires and shocks. Shocks get very hot and filled with a fork pump will fluctuate pressure easily 10 PSI. Don't believe me let all the nitrogen out of your shock and go to the track and fill it with your fork pump.

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2018 KX450F
2005 KX250
2003 KDX 220
1984 KX 80
1982 RM 80
1980 RM 80
1977 XR 75
1969 Honda Mini 50

12/21/2018 5:36 PM

I will never charge a shock that I didn't put together and most shops wont , cuz if I put the clips in I know its rite I dont know what the other guy did and I like my fingers attatched to my hands

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12/21/2018 7:18 PM

FWYT wrote:

Honestly, unless you are doing lots of shocks, it's easier and way cheaper just to take it to the
local moto shop and have them charge it for you. Most places will do it, no problem, for a small fee.

Exactly. I do most of my own suspension and just bring the shock to my suspension guy and have him bleed it and charge it. I bring him $20 and he's happy...

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12/21/2018 7:56 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/21/2018 8:00 PM

garagedog wrote:

MTB bike pump or Fork pump works fine. (I'm not trying to side track this thread).
The air we breath is 78% nitrogen. It will work fine and its free.

dkurtd wrote:

It doesn't matter that the air we breath contains 78% nitrogen, it has to do with how much water is in it. Pure Nitrogen is very dry, that is why it's used in race car tires and shocks. Shocks get very hot and filled with a fork pump will fluctuate pressure easily 10 PSI. Don't believe me let all the nitrogen out of your shock and go to the track and fill it with your fork pump.

An MTB pump will work just fine,. Not too long ago, even Suzuki called for air or N2...

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vomiting equals disqualification.

12/21/2018 8:23 PM

garagedog wrote:

MTB bike pump or Fork pump works fine. (I'm not trying to side track this thread).
The air we breath is 78% nitrogen. It will work fine and its free.

dkurtd wrote:

It doesn't matter that the air we breath contains 78% nitrogen, it has to do with how much water is in it. Pure Nitrogen is very dry, that is why it's used in race car tires and shocks. Shocks get very hot and filled with a fork pump will fluctuate pressure easily 10 PSI. Don't believe me let all the nitrogen out of your shock and go to the track and fill it with your fork pump.

BR8ES wrote:

An MTB pump will work just fine,. Not too long ago, even Suzuki called for air or N2...

Have at it then, dump your shock nitrogen and be sure to let us know what your starting pressures were with the MTB Pump and after a fifteen minute moto what your new pressures were.

Also I can tell you my 1982 RM 80 called for Nitrogen so when did Suzuki call for air?

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2018 KX450F
2005 KX250
2003 KDX 220
1984 KX 80
1982 RM 80
1980 RM 80
1977 XR 75
1969 Honda Mini 50

12/21/2018 8:26 PM

dkurtd wrote:

It doesn't matter that the air we breath contains 78% nitrogen, it has to do with how much water is in it. Pure Nitrogen is very dry, that is why it's used in race car tires and shocks. Shocks get very hot and filled with a fork pump will fluctuate pressure easily 10 PSI. Don't believe me let all the nitrogen out of your shock and go to the track and fill it with your fork pump.

BR8ES wrote:

An MTB pump will work just fine,. Not too long ago, even Suzuki called for air or N2...

dkurtd wrote:

Have at it then, dump your shock nitrogen and be sure to let us know what your starting pressures were with the MTB Pump and after a fifteen minute moto what your new pressures were.

Also I can tell you my 1982 RM 80 called for Nitrogen so when did Suzuki call for air?

I have N2 and have used air before... maybe at your warp speed you can sense the temp and action, but for mere mortals and weekend warriors, they won't know the difference.

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vomiting equals disqualification.

12/21/2018 11:35 PM

pete24 wrote:

I will never charge a shock that I didn't put together and most shops wont , cuz if I put the clips in I know its rite I dont know what the other guy did and I like my fingers attatched to my hands

This is a good point and a very valid concern for the guys at the shop.
What I do is when I bring the shock in to the shop to have charged, I have it
pressurized from the air compressor at home. That way they are assured that the clips are in securely.

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12/22/2018 8:09 AM

Keith72 wrote:

I'm interested in it. However I would still need the equipment to actually refill the nitrogen. Bottle, hose, regulator, no loss chuck..... Where is a good place to get all this stuff at a reasonable price? I can do all the work to change the oil, just can't recharge the nitrogen.

I honestly just take mine to my local shop, Most will do it for free if you’re a regular face! And they should have a needle to be able to do the stock cap

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12/22/2018 8:11 AM

FWYT wrote:

This is a good point and a very valid concern for the guys at the shop.
What I do is when I bring the shock in to the shop to have charged, I have it
pressurized from the air compressor at home. That way they are assured that the clips are in securely.

Same thing I do just let them know they’ll need to bleed the air out lol you usually have to put just a bit of pressure in there when you’re purging the oil of air anyways

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12/22/2018 8:25 AM

Spudnut wrote:

I have this left over one lying around $25 dollar adoption fee! lolPhoto

Keith72 wrote:

I'm interested in it. However I would still need the equipment to actually refill the nitrogen. Bottle, hose, regulator, no loss chuck..... Where is a good place to get all this stuff at a reasonable price? I can do all the work to change the oil, just can't recharge the nitrogen.

Spudnut wrote:

I honestly just take mine to my local shop, Most will do it for free if you’re a regular face! And they should have a needle to be able to do the stock cap

I’ve only had one shop Leary of filling my shock up for me after a rebuild for the reason stated above. And I completely understand the reason as they have no idea if it’s going to blow up in their face. After assuring them it was built properly they refilled it. Now I do the same as you and fill it at home with my fork pump to the recommend pressure and take it in so they can see it holds and is assembled correctly. For me it’s a $10 charge at my local shop. As much as I’d love to have the stuff to do it at home because I’m more than capable, I just can’t justify buying all the equipment to do it maybe twice a year.

All good shops should have the needle required for your KX shock. But I would swap it out for a shrader valve style cap like found on other bikes because I’ve had that rubber bullet that the needle pierces inside the cap come loose and actually fall in the bladder and leak air. May have been an isolated case but still super glueing the rubber peice in place was kinda ghetto by my standards.

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12/22/2018 9:23 AM

Keith72 wrote:

I'm interested in it. However I would still need the equipment to actually refill the nitrogen. Bottle, hose, regulator, no loss chuck..... Where is a good place to get all this stuff at a reasonable price? I can do all the work to change the oil, just can't recharge the nitrogen.

Spudnut wrote:

I honestly just take mine to my local shop, Most will do it for free if you’re a regular face! And they should have a needle to be able to do the stock cap

colvin227 wrote:

I’ve only had one shop Leary of filling my shock up for me after a rebuild for the reason stated above. And I completely understand the reason as they have no idea if it’s going to blow up in their face. After assuring them it was built properly they refilled it. Now I do the same as you and fill it at home with my fork pump to the recommend pressure and take it in so they can see it holds and is assembled correctly. For me it’s a $10 charge at my local shop. As much as I’d love to have the stuff to do it at home because I’m more than capable, I just can’t justify buying all the equipment to do it maybe twice a year.

All good shops should have the needle required for your KX shock. But I would swap it out for a shrader valve style cap like found on other bikes because I’ve had that rubber bullet that the needle pierces inside the cap come loose and actually fall in the bladder and leak air. May have been an isolated case but still super glueing the rubber peice in place was kinda ghetto by my standards.

if you get shock oil on the cap around the needle fill port, it will tend to help the rubber insert fall out as you mentioned. Its a lot bigger issue on sled shocks because they dont use a bladder, just an IFP, so you always end up with some oil on it.
If you dont have oil all over it, one of the major reasons why it would fall out down into the shock in the bladder is from a dull needle.

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12/22/2018 5:14 PM

Spudnut wrote:

I honestly just take mine to my local shop, Most will do it for free if you’re a regular face! And they should have a needle to be able to do the stock cap

colvin227 wrote:

I’ve only had one shop Leary of filling my shock up for me after a rebuild for the reason stated above. And I completely understand the reason as they have no idea if it’s going to blow up in their face. After assuring them it was built properly they refilled it. Now I do the same as you and fill it at home with my fork pump to the recommend pressure and take it in so they can see it holds and is assembled correctly. For me it’s a $10 charge at my local shop. As much as I’d love to have the stuff to do it at home because I’m more than capable, I just can’t justify buying all the equipment to do it maybe twice a year.

All good shops should have the needle required for your KX shock. But I would swap it out for a shrader valve style cap like found on other bikes because I’ve had that rubber bullet that the needle pierces inside the cap come loose and actually fall in the bladder and leak air. May have been an isolated case but still super glueing the rubber peice in place was kinda ghetto by my standards.

dmm698 wrote:

if you get shock oil on the cap around the needle fill port, it will tend to help the rubber insert fall out as you mentioned. Its a lot bigger issue on sled shocks because they dont use a bladder, just an IFP, so you always end up with some oil on it.
If you dont have oil all over it, one of the major reasons why it would fall out down into the shock in the bladder is from a dull needle.

Makes sense how that can happen. still an inferior design compared to an Air valve in my opinion.

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12/23/2018 1:55 PM

colvin227 wrote:

I’ve only had one shop Leary of filling my shock up for me after a rebuild for the reason stated above. And I completely understand the reason as they have no idea if it’s going to blow up in their face. After assuring them it was built properly they refilled it. Now I do the same as you and fill it at home with my fork pump to the recommend pressure and take it in so they can see it holds and is assembled correctly. For me it’s a $10 charge at my local shop. As much as I’d love to have the stuff to do it at home because I’m more than capable, I just can’t justify buying all the equipment to do it maybe twice a year.

All good shops should have the needle required for your KX shock. But I would swap it out for a shrader valve style cap like found on other bikes because I’ve had that rubber bullet that the needle pierces inside the cap come loose and actually fall in the bladder and leak air. May have been an isolated case but still super glueing the rubber peice in place was kinda ghetto by my standards.

dmm698 wrote:

if you get shock oil on the cap around the needle fill port, it will tend to help the rubber insert fall out as you mentioned. Its a lot bigger issue on sled shocks because they dont use a bladder, just an IFP, so you always end up with some oil on it.
If you dont have oil all over it, one of the major reasons why it would fall out down into the shock in the bladder is from a dull needle.

colvin227 wrote:

Makes sense how that can happen. still an inferior design compared to an Air valve in my opinion.

How do you figure? In reality you can get a larger bladder cap on the res in the same geometrical area because you don’t have to package for the big Schroeder valve hanging off the bottom. I don’t mind the needle fills at all and it’s all I really use now between moto and sled shocks except my a kit shock.

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12/23/2018 2:33 PM

dmm698 wrote:

if you get shock oil on the cap around the needle fill port, it will tend to help the rubber insert fall out as you mentioned. Its a lot bigger issue on sled shocks because they dont use a bladder, just an IFP, so you always end up with some oil on it.
If you dont have oil all over it, one of the major reasons why it would fall out down into the shock in the bladder is from a dull needle.

colvin227 wrote:

Makes sense how that can happen. still an inferior design compared to an Air valve in my opinion.

dmm698 wrote:

How do you figure? In reality you can get a larger bladder cap on the res in the same geometrical area because you don’t have to package for the big Schroeder valve hanging off the bottom. I don’t mind the needle fills at all and it’s all I really use now between moto and sled shocks except my a kit shock.

Just to me with the fact that the rubber bullet can come out fairly easily if it gets wet, or if your needle isn’t sharp enough it’ll put to much pressure on it trying to pierce it that it will knock it loose. So the answer is always keep sharp needles on hand I guess. Plus having a valve to grab onto to pull the bladder up and out helps making servicing easier in my opinion. Maybe it’s just preference on my part since everything I’ve ever serviced airplanes, or bikes utilize a shrader valve so I prefer it and it’s my norm.” I dunno and if you prefer the needle method then thats awesome. But as you said A kit or works shocks (dirtbike, I have no idea about other machines) almost all utilize a valve so wouldn’t that be telling as to a superior design. Do both work? Yes absolutely!

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12/23/2018 3:57 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/23/2018 3:58 PM

For the average guy, Schrader valve is great. Never any problems, etc.

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vomiting equals disqualification.

12/23/2018 5:18 PM

colvin227 wrote:

Makes sense how that can happen. still an inferior design compared to an Air valve in my opinion.

dmm698 wrote:

How do you figure? In reality you can get a larger bladder cap on the res in the same geometrical area because you don’t have to package for the big Schroeder valve hanging off the bottom. I don’t mind the needle fills at all and it’s all I really use now between moto and sled shocks except my a kit shock.

colvin227 wrote:

Just to me with the fact that the rubber bullet can come out fairly easily if it gets wet, or if your needle isn’t sharp enough it’ll put to much pressure on it trying to pierce it that it will knock it loose. So the answer is always keep sharp needles on hand I guess. Plus having a valve to grab onto to pull the bladder up and out helps making servicing easier in my opinion. Maybe it’s just preference on my part since everything I’ve ever serviced airplanes, or bikes utilize a shrader valve so I prefer it and it’s my norm.” I dunno and if you prefer the needle method then thats awesome. But as you said A kit or works shocks (dirtbike, I have no idea about other machines) almost all utilize a valve so wouldn’t that be telling as to a superior design. Do both work? Yes absolutely!

Nice thing about the schraeder valve on my a kit shock is there’s a threaded hole in the center of the bladder cap you can thread a bolt into and pull it out. On the needle fills I just remove the circlip retaining the cap and then stroke the shock to pressure the bladder cap out. My kit shock is also from like 2010. In all reality the use of needle fill is probably a cost savings for production and nothing more because the bladder cap is still flush on production units.

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