2006 Suzuki rm 250 clutch

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5/25/2018 11:18 AM

Have any of u guys ever installed all new clutch assembly....basket , plates,springs everything and for some reason u can never seem to get the clutch to disengage all the way....like it still chugs when u pull the clutch all the way in and put adjustment all the way out so lever is only using last piece of adjustment???

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5/25/2018 1:05 PM

Lol broski theres major adjustment nuts further down the cable. Set your slack with that first and then your lever adjustment will only be used for adjustments later on

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5/25/2018 1:45 PM

kb228 wrote:

Lol broski theres major adjustment nuts further down the cable. Set your slack with that first and then your lever adjustment will only be used for adjustments later on

Hahahaha i know i got that one adjusted.but at the perch i have it adjusted and pulled tight and it still surges real bad even when warm.i put all new wiseco basket and hub.

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5/25/2018 2:07 PM

Not disengaging all the way. Absolutely positive you put it together correctly? Did you coat everything in oil before hand?

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If you're not mixing gas, you're not haulin ass.

5/25/2018 2:30 PM

TrailDigger wrote:

Not disengaging all the way. Absolutely positive you put it together correctly? Did you coat everything in oil before hand?

I soaked the discs prior....its weird i never had this issue with any other bike

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5/25/2018 2:44 PM

are you using an aftermarket clutch lever and perch?

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5/25/2018 5:10 PM

Bruce372 wrote:

are you using an aftermarket clutch lever and perch?

Yea....the cr bend lever....i even tried atf instead of 10 40 and still no change still has the chug...i have no clue

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5/25/2018 5:15 PM

Bruce372 wrote:

are you using an aftermarket clutch lever and perch?

motox766 wrote:

Yea....the cr bend lever....i even tried atf instead of 10 40 and still no change still has the chug...i have no clue

Go back to stock.

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5/25/2018 7:17 PM

either your using afti clutch springs or your
pressure plate is smoked

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5/25/2018 7:38 PM

pete24 wrote:

either your using afti clutch springs or your
pressure plate is smoked

Pressure plate is brand new.atf and 10 40 had same effect...i will try ordering a oem lever and perch

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5/25/2018 8:04 PM

pete24 wrote:

either your using afti clutch springs or your
pressure plate is smoked

motox766 wrote:

Pressure plate is brand new.atf and 10 40 had same effect...i will try ordering a oem lever and perch

I am not saying it will fix the problem, but I've run aftermarket in Suzukis before and swapped back to stock.

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5/25/2018 8:56 PM

pete24 wrote:

either your using afti clutch springs or your
pressure plate is smoked

motox766 wrote:

Pressure plate is brand new.atf and 10 40 had same effect...i will try ordering a oem lever and perch

Bruce372 wrote:

I am not saying it will fix the problem, but I've run aftermarket in Suzukis before and swapped back to stock.

Its worth a shot...

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5/25/2018 10:42 PM

Heres one thats not been suggested.. is your cable routed according to the service manual? You cant route it however you want. Is it free from pinching? Does your clutch actuation arm at the end of the cable move freely and through the entire range of motion?

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5/26/2018 10:00 AM

Its not the perch or lever, oil would not make it do that either.

Either your cable is jacked up ( also less likely ), or the clutch is wrong or put together wrong ( most likely ), possibly also check the arm / link that the cable attaches too and make sure it isn't messed up.

I have owned about 10 Rm 250's on top of many other bikes and never had that happen, but I have seen friends put there clutches in wrong and it wont work right, or had the wrong fiber plates and it wouldn't disengage properly.


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5/26/2018 10:56 AM

When you added the new basket, did you press on the gear on the back all the way?

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5/27/2018 3:12 PM

I have the same bike and had the same problem when I got it. When I took it apart some steel plates were turned different. There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine? I heard its important for all plates to be installed the same. I ordered a new kit but all my old plates measured to spec. New kit installed with all steels facing the same way and it works perfect. Tusk kit with EBC heavier springs is what I went with.

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6/5/2018 7:10 PM

lucas51 wrote:

I have the same bike and had the same problem when I got it. When I took it apart some steel plates were turned different. There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine? I heard its important for all plates to be installed the same. I ordered a new kit but all my old plates measured to spec. New kit installed with all steels facing the same way and it works perfect. Tusk kit with EBC heavier springs is what I went with.

Thanks im gonna try that

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6/6/2018 1:56 AM

lucas51 wrote:

I have the same bike and had the same problem when I got it. When I took it apart some steel plates were turned different. There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine? I heard its important for all plates to be installed the same. I ordered a new kit but all my old plates measured to spec. New kit installed with all steels facing the same way and it works perfect. Tusk kit with EBC heavier springs is what I went with.

"There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine?"

That's correct, otherwise you can keep buying plates coz they will burn.

try original plates and feder, with 10-40 oil,it should be good. let it bike idle a couple of times if you have everything new so the oil can get every where. when it idles keep pulling the clutch.

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6/20/2018 8:06 PM

lucas51 wrote:

I have the same bike and had the same problem when I got it. When I took it apart some steel plates were turned different. There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine? I heard its important for all plates to be installed the same. I ordered a new kit but all my old plates measured to spec. New kit installed with all steels facing the same way and it works perfect. Tusk kit with EBC heavier springs is what I went with.

r18b wrote:

"There is a rounded edge and flat edge. I believe the flat edge goes towards the engine?"

That's correct, otherwise you can keep buying plates coz they will burn.

try original plates and feder, with 10-40 oil,it should be good. let it bike idle a couple of times if you have everything new so the oil can get every where. when it idles keep pulling the clutch.

Still no luck....this thing is annoying....i can adjust the clutch all the way tight and it doesnt chug then with the clutch still pulled in it will start to chug and roll forward....im beginning to hate this bike!!!

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6/21/2018 5:07 AM
Edited Date/Time: 6/21/2018 5:08 AM

Something is wrong somewhere, this isn't normal for RM250's. The clutch on mine is perfect.

Almost sounds as if your clutch pack is too big (thick) and the pressure plate cant push off enough to disengage.
Do you still have your old clutch pack (steels and fibres)? Put them together as a group and measure the overall width. Then do the same with your new pack.
What brand clutch components have you put in?
Have you put the correct amount of steels and fibres in? Correct order?
Did you install the spacer between the basket and hub? That can stick to the hub on removal and then fall off quite often.
Is the hub seated properly on the splines, tab washer installed correctly and nut properly torqued?
Is the cable end properly seated in the actuator arm behind the ignition cover?

I'm just spit balling possibilities here but something is definitely wrong. With all of those parts replaced your clutch should be flawless.
Id recommend pulling it all back out again and following the manual to the last detail when you re install.

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@russ_69

6/21/2018 6:19 AM

Did you try the OEM lever and perch? It sounds like a leverage ratio issue to me.

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6/21/2018 7:58 AM

RussB wrote:

Something is wrong somewhere, this isn't normal for RM250's. The clutch on mine is perfect.

Almost sounds as if your clutch pack is too big (thick) and the pressure plate cant push off enough to disengage.
Do you still have your old clutch pack (steels and fibres)? Put them together as a group and measure the overall width. Then do the same with your new pack.
What brand clutch components have you put in?
Have you put the correct amount of steels and fibres in? Correct order?
Did you install the spacer between the basket and hub? That can stick to the hub on removal and then fall off quite often.
Is the hub seated properly on the splines, tab washer installed correctly and nut properly torqued?
Is the cable end properly seated in the actuator arm behind the ignition cover?

I'm just spit balling possibilities here but something is definitely wrong. With all of those parts replaced your clutch should be flawless.
Id recommend pulling it all back out again and following the manual to the last detail when you re install.

I agree its like it cant get enough room to disengage. I even put a spacer where the clutch cable goes into the case to get more pull and it still does this.....i never had any of my bikes ever have this issue.i may take it apart again and compare it to a pic breakdown and just check it out again.how much does the pack need to move out from the basket to be in spec?it should just be off a little to stop moving.....

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