Posts
73
Joined
6/30/2017
Location
Austin, TX
US
Edited Date/Time
9/30/2019 4:06pm
Hey guys
Started having some troubles with my power valve on my 06 CR250. At about 3/4 throttle the power would "pulsate" for lack of a better word. Went through the carb, the engine, and all the electronics before I removed the RC Valve cover and found that when I would get to about 3/4 throttle the valve would just pulsate and didn't look like it was opening up fully at WOT.
Opened the servo motor and found the rust bucket that some would call an electronic motor. Did some research and got the RS365SH replacement motor.
The reason I'm here is to ask if the wire polarity makes a difference. Obviously I would think it does, but does the replacement motor label +/- poles, and also which wire is + and which is -. I did my research and saw nothing of the polarity.
Didn't think to order a replacement brass gear, so has anyone been able to reuse the one that's pressed fit on the shaft?
One last thing, would replacing the Mikuni with a Keihin (aka unplugging the TPS) be my issue? Didn't have troubles at first but now I'm second guessing myself.
Started having some troubles with my power valve on my 06 CR250. At about 3/4 throttle the power would "pulsate" for lack of a better word. Went through the carb, the engine, and all the electronics before I removed the RC Valve cover and found that when I would get to about 3/4 throttle the valve would just pulsate and didn't look like it was opening up fully at WOT.
Opened the servo motor and found the rust bucket that some would call an electronic motor. Did some research and got the RS365SH replacement motor.
The reason I'm here is to ask if the wire polarity makes a difference. Obviously I would think it does, but does the replacement motor label +/- poles, and also which wire is + and which is -. I did my research and saw nothing of the polarity.
Didn't think to order a replacement brass gear, so has anyone been able to reuse the one that's pressed fit on the shaft?
One last thing, would replacing the Mikuni with a Keihin (aka unplugging the TPS) be my issue? Didn't have troubles at first but now I'm second guessing myself.
If you only changed the motor, do you recall info on the other questions I had?
https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1124517-cr250-rc-valve/
The Shop
replaced the servo motor and it’s still fluttering See Video. Unless this is normal and my problem is elsewhere..?
Paw Paw
i’m convinced it’s the potentiometer. does anyone know if there is a replacement or if i just need to buy a whole new assembly? i’d hate to do that since i just changed the motor and all.
The valve dont move or move randomly. I check everything and im suspected the potentiometre in the servo motor, I wanna know if its possible to buy only this piece.
Thanks for your answers. ✌🏽
If you're looking to purchase only the potentiometer, you're obviously looking to save money- no problem!
Go to eBay and type in "CBR600RR servo".
You'll find dozens available for only a few dollars.
If your CR250 servo motor is faulty, corroded or damaged-
Remove the CBR servo motor from the CBR case.
Install the CBR servo motor into your CR250 case and use the original CR250 plastic gears.
The CBR potentiometer and Sumitomo electrical connector can be used. You may have to rearrange the electrical wires in the connector from the CBR to match the CR but the connector will work.
Cheapest reliable way of changing the CR250 servo motor since the vast majority of CBR motors have obviously never been exposed to dirt or mud and have a higher probability of being corrosion free than purchasing used CR servo motors which have been exposed to dirt, mud, and pressure washers.
If your CR250 servo motor is OK- you can remove the CBR potentiometer and splice/solder to CR250 wires. The CBR potentiometer fits in the CR250 case.
Pit Row
Post a reply to: 2006 CR250 RC Valve issues [With Video]