17 TC 125 cutting out

dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
9/30/2018 10:25am
Alright, slide is cut and polished. 30 pilot 470 main 42-75 needle on the first clip.
Will reassemble the power valve and give it a try. I'm skepticle but we'll see, nothing to loose at this point.
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
9/30/2018 11:42am
Holy shit, it seems to be fixed!

In reinstalling the power valve I noticed that bushing #5 from the diagram was installed on the wrong side! It had been wrong for a while because I could see where the spring had been wearing into it. Not sure if it was that or the slide but it sure seems good now!

Thanks everyone!
5
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
9/30/2018 5:56pm
riv187, good work on that slide. Looks really good.

dtl210, glad it’s running better. Also make sure your floats are adjusted properly. I’ve seen a 2 bikes bog between jumps in a rhythm section (oddly enough it was the same section) from the float being not properly adjusted.
1
riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
9/30/2018 6:48pm
AJ565 wrote:
riv187, good work on that slide. Looks really good. dtl210, glad it’s running better. Also make sure your floats are adjusted properly. I’ve seen a 2...
riv187, good work on that slide. Looks really good.

dtl210, glad it’s running better. Also make sure your floats are adjusted properly. I’ve seen a 2 bikes bog between jumps in a rhythm section (oddly enough it was the same section) from the float being not properly adjusted.
AJ, I appreciate your threads.I also have a 17 tc250 that I learned a lot from your thread. I chased a poor running 1990 kx250 back,27 years back when it was almost new.Seller couldn’t get it running decent and dumped it on me. Yes I’m old. Like the huskys,, it had a rich slide that caused same symptoms. I cut it , systematically over and over to find perfect setting. The huskys and your threads made me remember that.
1

The Shop

riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
9/30/2018 7:34pm
If your air box isn’t opened up,,,do it. Note I cut 2 triangles out on right. Large on side, and smaller on front top. Left side front has top corner. I didn’t do left side panel holes as I race in sand and I think it wouldn’t help anymore. This gives the mid hit like Ktm.
1
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/1/2018 7:24am
Took it on a 20ish mile single track ride yesterday. It is good to go. There is a spot on the low end where it feels very flat, I'll open up the air box and see if that helps.

The bog is completely gone though, revs clean and smooth all the way through the rpm range. The F1 arms are in the mail, not sure if I'll keep them or just try to sell them on ebay.
riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
10/1/2018 7:59am
dtl210 wrote:
Took it on a 20ish mile single track ride yesterday. It is good to go. There is a spot on the low end where it feels...
Took it on a 20ish mile single track ride yesterday. It is good to go. There is a spot on the low end where it feels very flat, I'll open up the air box and see if that helps.

The bog is completely gone though, revs clean and smooth all the way through the rpm range. The F1 arms are in the mail, not sure if I'll keep them or just try to sell them on ebay.
Try the 32.5 pilot. I experimented with 27.5 and 30 early on and think the 32.5 was best, and carefully adjust air screw. The TMX is sensitive to air screw needle and runs less turns out my experiance. I was surprised mine was 1/4 out when I double checked it...but that is what the bike wanted that day at races. The point of needle is steep so 1/4 turn either way makes a difference.. The 2nd clip on needle was my cooler air(60s) setting with the 500 main,,had to go to 1st clip when the temps went 90s and smaller main. The TC125 is awesome 125- when jetted and running properly.
1
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/1/2018 8:16am
dtl210 wrote:
Took it on a 20ish mile single track ride yesterday. It is good to go. There is a spot on the low end where it feels...
Took it on a 20ish mile single track ride yesterday. It is good to go. There is a spot on the low end where it feels very flat, I'll open up the air box and see if that helps.

The bog is completely gone though, revs clean and smooth all the way through the rpm range. The F1 arms are in the mail, not sure if I'll keep them or just try to sell them on ebay.
riv187 wrote:
Try the 32.5 pilot. I experimented with 27.5 and 30 early on and think the 32.5 was best, and carefully adjust air screw. The TMX is...
Try the 32.5 pilot. I experimented with 27.5 and 30 early on and think the 32.5 was best, and carefully adjust air screw. The TMX is sensitive to air screw needle and runs less turns out my experiance. I was surprised mine was 1/4 out when I double checked it...but that is what the bike wanted that day at races. The point of needle is steep so 1/4 turn either way makes a difference.. The 2nd clip on needle was my cooler air(60s) setting with the 500 main,,had to go to 1st clip when the temps went 90s and smaller main. The TC125 is awesome 125- when jetted and running properly.
Thanks. Hoping to get to the track this week so I'll be able to dial it in a bit more. Although October weather in North Idaho is tough, it changes fast.

Just happy it's ride-able now after 3 weeks of frustration.
riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
10/1/2018 8:29am
Good deal! Depending on how cold air..and your ability to pin it wfo for long stretches...its good to be rich on main jet and go smaller in steps till it cleans up. I keep thinking about adding a adjustable power jet to mine.
1
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
10/1/2018 9:18am
Agreed that you should richen it to a 32.5. I forgot to mention that jetting was for 90's+ temps and didn't account for the cooler temps. Now that you're in the ball park you shouldn't have to make drastic changes. As the temp drops you will need to richen the clip up as cooler temps require more fuel than hotter temps. On my 250sx when its hot out I run a 32.5 PJ and drop my needle. When the temp drops I go back to a 35 PJ and bump up the needle one clip.
2
garagedog
Posts
837
Joined
4/23/2014
Location
Tulare, CA US
Fantasy
802nd
10/1/2018 3:48pm
How does the spark plug look? Tan, white?
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
10/1/2018 7:52pm
garagedog wrote:
How does the spark plug look? Tan, white?
Doesn’t matter. Unless he cuts it down to the base that’s the only way to get a true reading by measuring the ring around the base. For example my spark plugs are yellow, but when I cut the threads off my base ring is 2mm tall. If it’s shorter than that it’s lean, taller would be rich. Ideal is 2-2.5mm. The measurements are supposed to be taken on a new plug after a long WFO pull then pulling in the clutch and holding the kill button.
1
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/2/2018 7:19am
Did not check the plug. I was on tight super rocky single track so it would not be a good indicator.

Hoping to hit the track on Thursday. It's normally pretty deep and wide open so I plan to start a little rich and then lean it out as needed.
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
10/2/2018 7:44am
Here is the pictures of what I was talking about last night.



2
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/5/2018 7:21am
Finally got a good ride in. Ended up with a 35 pilot and a 490 main. No bog or cutting out whatsoever.

Only issue was the radiator cap, it fell off after 2 laps. Apparently drilling and putting a pin in these things is critical!
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
10/5/2018 7:27am
Sounds like solid cooler weather jetting numbers. The slide is the one thing everyone is afraid of changing on those carbs and it makes a huge difference that the JD kit can't match.
1
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/5/2018 7:29am
Yeah, I should have mentioned that. Was 45-50 degrees out.
riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
10/5/2018 11:00am
Good deal ! Isn't it amazing to think that last person rode it the other way and all it took was a dremel tool/30 minutes and a couple little pieces of brass.
2
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
10/5/2018 11:12am
It is. It was un-rideable to me. Yet the previous owner had raced it all the way across the country, heck it went to Loretta's from Washington state. It's a whole new bike now.

I spoke with the previous owner again when I was trying to get it running. He said they're running a 47.5 pilot with a 510 main, needle in the 3rd position main with our weather right now. He swears by the app on his phone that gave him those specs.
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
10/5/2018 12:04pm
You should let him ride it now. He'd shit his pants lol
3
Proper
Posts
1
Joined
5/13/2019
Location
Los Angeles, CA US
5/13/2019 4:52pm
riv187 wrote:
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the...
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the bike dangerous to ride on mx track. I didn't like the bike.I did play with mains and pilots. I installed the V-force to little avail. Went to a Denso IWM27 plug. Then I really started asking reading and going back over notes of other bikes I repaired.
The KTMs are not identical and have better flowing airbox-hence less jetting problem. A WFO rider that never lets off will not feel the problem- they jet for WFO.
Ignition readings are tough to get precise...see the temp reading for resistance?,and your leads can effect that too.
Your PV arms operate smoother than mine since you polished them-but my bike runs great with them from factory and do not hang up.
The solutions are opening up airbox see right and left side. Then the jetting.The slide is tooo rich and make the part throttle stumble bog blubber..Its clear in your video.The PV is RPM sensitive. The crackling rich stumble is at part throttle even thought the revs are up as the bike has no load.
Here's pictures of my modified slide.The peak is 7.2mm. Width is 24.8mm. This is close to a 5.5 slide now. This took 30 minutes with dremel and drum sander. The other jetting is PV-2.25,32.5 pilot,460-500 main(500 in sand),Needle 42-75 1st clip,S-7 nozzle, AS 1/4-1.(1/4 was current setting), 40-1 sunuco 110 with Klotz. I'm at 200 ft,,low 90s now,and 65+% humidity. You maybe at 4000 ft and thinner air which would magnify the rich stock slide. We have high humidity that nullifies the lower altitude. AJ that posted before and slipdog had posts last year that walked through a similar issue on TC250.
My bike runs like enduro model now...smooth excelleration from idle to top. Doesnt drool or foul plug. On the track the 125 races I've been in,I'm always in top 3 too first turn,,and on a twisty slippery track we run at wildwood fl the bike is sweet pulling from down low through midrange to revving like it should. The power delivery has me finishing 2-3 spots better. Some riders that say there bike is fine now...just don't know how good it could be....I hope I haven't wasted my time giving the answer. The slide mod will be night and day better.Good luck







can I purchase a leaner slide like this? I'd prefer not to modify the original in case I make a mistake.
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
5/13/2019 8:03pm Edited Date/Time 5/13/2019 8:03pm
riv187 wrote:
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the...
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the bike dangerous to ride on mx track. I didn't like the bike.I did play with mains and pilots. I installed the V-force to little avail. Went to a Denso IWM27 plug. Then I really started asking reading and going back over notes of other bikes I repaired.
The KTMs are not identical and have better flowing airbox-hence less jetting problem. A WFO rider that never lets off will not feel the problem- they jet for WFO.
Ignition readings are tough to get precise...see the temp reading for resistance?,and your leads can effect that too.
Your PV arms operate smoother than mine since you polished them-but my bike runs great with them from factory and do not hang up.
The solutions are opening up airbox see right and left side. Then the jetting.The slide is tooo rich and make the part throttle stumble bog blubber..Its clear in your video.The PV is RPM sensitive. The crackling rich stumble is at part throttle even thought the revs are up as the bike has no load.
Here's pictures of my modified slide.The peak is 7.2mm. Width is 24.8mm. This is close to a 5.5 slide now. This took 30 minutes with dremel and drum sander. The other jetting is PV-2.25,32.5 pilot,460-500 main(500 in sand),Needle 42-75 1st clip,S-7 nozzle, AS 1/4-1.(1/4 was current setting), 40-1 sunuco 110 with Klotz. I'm at 200 ft,,low 90s now,and 65+% humidity. You maybe at 4000 ft and thinner air which would magnify the rich stock slide. We have high humidity that nullifies the lower altitude. AJ that posted before and slipdog had posts last year that walked through a similar issue on TC250.
My bike runs like enduro model now...smooth excelleration from idle to top. Doesnt drool or foul plug. On the track the 125 races I've been in,I'm always in top 3 too first turn,,and on a twisty slippery track we run at wildwood fl the bike is sweet pulling from down low through midrange to revving like it should. The power delivery has me finishing 2-3 spots better. Some riders that say there bike is fine now...just don't know how good it could be....I hope I haven't wasted my time giving the answer. The slide mod will be night and day better.Good luck







Proper wrote:
can I purchase a leaner slide like this? I'd prefer not to modify the original in case I make a mistake.
Yes. They are option slides for a 2004 KX125. Look at OEM parts on Motorsport.com or your local dealer.
Dev_1leg
Posts
30
Joined
6/11/2019
Location
Glens Falls, NY US
6/11/2019 6:42pm
riv187 wrote:
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the...
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the bike dangerous to ride on mx track. I didn't like the bike.I did play with mains and pilots. I installed the V-force to little avail. Went to a Denso IWM27 plug. Then I really started asking reading and going back over notes of other bikes I repaired.
The KTMs are not identical and have better flowing airbox-hence less jetting problem. A WFO rider that never lets off will not feel the problem- they jet for WFO.
Ignition readings are tough to get precise...see the temp reading for resistance?,and your leads can effect that too.
Your PV arms operate smoother than mine since you polished them-but my bike runs great with them from factory and do not hang up.
The solutions are opening up airbox see right and left side. Then the jetting.The slide is tooo rich and make the part throttle stumble bog blubber..Its clear in your video.The PV is RPM sensitive. The crackling rich stumble is at part throttle even thought the revs are up as the bike has no load.
Here's pictures of my modified slide.The peak is 7.2mm. Width is 24.8mm. This is close to a 5.5 slide now. This took 30 minutes with dremel and drum sander. The other jetting is PV-2.25,32.5 pilot,460-500 main(500 in sand),Needle 42-75 1st clip,S-7 nozzle, AS 1/4-1.(1/4 was current setting), 40-1 sunuco 110 with Klotz. I'm at 200 ft,,low 90s now,and 65+% humidity. You maybe at 4000 ft and thinner air which would magnify the rich stock slide. We have high humidity that nullifies the lower altitude. AJ that posted before and slipdog had posts last year that walked through a similar issue on TC250.
My bike runs like enduro model now...smooth excelleration from idle to top. Doesnt drool or foul plug. On the track the 125 races I've been in,I'm always in top 3 too first turn,,and on a twisty slippery track we run at wildwood fl the bike is sweet pulling from down low through midrange to revving like it should. The power delivery has me finishing 2-3 spots better. Some riders that say there bike is fine now...just don't know how good it could be....I hope I haven't wasted my time giving the answer. The slide mod will be night and day better.Good luck







What did you do exactly?, I’m having a weird issue with my 2018 Tc125 converted to a supermoto. I did the air box mod only on the right side in a perfect triangle a tiny bit larger then yours, stock head exhaust and a factory husqy FMF power core (I can watch engine temp because of trail tech) It runs fine until WOT 2 days ago it was 89 outside it ran pretty decent with 35 pilot 490 main. Until I went WOT up an over the mountain twistys, then it fouled on me. I let the bike idle after kicking the pants of it with choke on and it loaded up obvi that seemed to fix it so I got home and assumed I needed to go richer main thought it was starving for fuel but today (on a new spark plug) I can see engine temp drop to 107. the air temp was around 76 out. The jetting is 500 main jet same pilot jet. worked fine till I got going faster and engine temp dropped to the 107 range bike bogged out wouldn’t go kept dying completely. So I choked the bike to start it, let it warm till about 128 and tried to make it home but it wasn’t happy. it cooled down again and was cut out a little. I idled at the light and temp came up and I made it home. Now I’m here I’m gonna put a 470main in and I would like to notch the slide. I’m very capable I just have no idea what your indicating in the pictures to complete the mod please help me my friend!!! Pinch
riv187
Posts
527
Joined
2/1/2015
Location
Lakeland, FL US
6/11/2019 9:18pm
riv187 wrote:
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the...
Hi Dt210, I'll try to help you again...I HAVE a TC125. I'm not arm chair guessing. I had the same bog in middle that made the bike dangerous to ride on mx track. I didn't like the bike.I did play with mains and pilots. I installed the V-force to little avail. Went to a Denso IWM27 plug. Then I really started asking reading and going back over notes of other bikes I repaired.
The KTMs are not identical and have better flowing airbox-hence less jetting problem. A WFO rider that never lets off will not feel the problem- they jet for WFO.
Ignition readings are tough to get precise...see the temp reading for resistance?,and your leads can effect that too.
Your PV arms operate smoother than mine since you polished them-but my bike runs great with them from factory and do not hang up.
The solutions are opening up airbox see right and left side. Then the jetting.The slide is tooo rich and make the part throttle stumble bog blubber..Its clear in your video.The PV is RPM sensitive. The crackling rich stumble is at part throttle even thought the revs are up as the bike has no load.
Here's pictures of my modified slide.The peak is 7.2mm. Width is 24.8mm. This is close to a 5.5 slide now. This took 30 minutes with dremel and drum sander. The other jetting is PV-2.25,32.5 pilot,460-500 main(500 in sand),Needle 42-75 1st clip,S-7 nozzle, AS 1/4-1.(1/4 was current setting), 40-1 sunuco 110 with Klotz. I'm at 200 ft,,low 90s now,and 65+% humidity. You maybe at 4000 ft and thinner air which would magnify the rich stock slide. We have high humidity that nullifies the lower altitude. AJ that posted before and slipdog had posts last year that walked through a similar issue on TC250.
My bike runs like enduro model now...smooth excelleration from idle to top. Doesnt drool or foul plug. On the track the 125 races I've been in,I'm always in top 3 too first turn,,and on a twisty slippery track we run at wildwood fl the bike is sweet pulling from down low through midrange to revving like it should. The power delivery has me finishing 2-3 spots better. Some riders that say there bike is fine now...just don't know how good it could be....I hope I haven't wasted my time giving the answer. The slide mod will be night and day better.Good luck







Dev_1leg wrote:
What did you do exactly?, I’m having a weird issue with my 2018 Tc125 converted to a supermoto. I did the air box mod only on...
What did you do exactly?, I’m having a weird issue with my 2018 Tc125 converted to a supermoto. I did the air box mod only on the right side in a perfect triangle a tiny bit larger then yours, stock head exhaust and a factory husqy FMF power core (I can watch engine temp because of trail tech) It runs fine until WOT 2 days ago it was 89 outside it ran pretty decent with 35 pilot 490 main. Until I went WOT up an over the mountain twistys, then it fouled on me. I let the bike idle after kicking the pants of it with choke on and it loaded up obvi that seemed to fix it so I got home and assumed I needed to go richer main thought it was starving for fuel but today (on a new spark plug) I can see engine temp drop to 107. the air temp was around 76 out. The jetting is 500 main jet same pilot jet. worked fine till I got going faster and engine temp dropped to the 107 range bike bogged out wouldn’t go kept dying completely. So I choked the bike to start it, let it warm till about 128 and tried to make it home but it wasn’t happy. it cooled down again and was cut out a little. I idled at the light and temp came up and I made it home. Now I’m here I’m gonna put a 470main in and I would like to notch the slide. I’m very capable I just have no idea what your indicating in the pictures to complete the mod please help me my friend!!! Pinch
Im not certain if our problems are same. The one I had,,and many others with 125s, and 250s and the Mikuni came when accelerating. When I cracked it open from idle it would start to take off- then hiccup some or sputter- then take off again. The hiccup during acceleration was because the cut in slide was too small. It didn't let enough air in when the valve was part way up. The blubber/sputter is a rich condition 1/4-1/2. The fix was grinding the slanted part taller and wider like shown in pictures. 24.8mm wide at bottom,,,and 7.2mm high. It maybe easier to buy a kx125 slide that is 5.5 or 5.75, if your unsure of getting the dremel grinder out to do this. Stock Husky is a 4 slide. At continuous wide open the slide 'cut-away' shape doesn't matter. If the problem is during acceleration or continuous 1/4-1/2 throttle, then my fix works. Pretty trick bike you have!!
1
AJ565
Posts
2075
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
6/12/2019 6:13am
What do the reeds look like? I wonder if they are toast and not atomizing the fuel correctly.
1
dtl210
Posts
141
Joined
8/12/2018
Location
Post Falls, ID US
6/12/2019 6:50am
Dev_1leg wrote:
What did you do exactly?, I’m having a weird issue with my 2018 Tc125 converted to a supermoto. I did the air box mod only on...
What did you do exactly?, I’m having a weird issue with my 2018 Tc125 converted to a supermoto. I did the air box mod only on the right side in a perfect triangle a tiny bit larger then yours, stock head exhaust and a factory husqy FMF power core (I can watch engine temp because of trail tech) It runs fine until WOT 2 days ago it was 89 outside it ran pretty decent with 35 pilot 490 main. Until I went WOT up an over the mountain twistys, then it fouled on me. I let the bike idle after kicking the pants of it with choke on and it loaded up obvi that seemed to fix it so I got home and assumed I needed to go richer main thought it was starving for fuel but today (on a new spark plug) I can see engine temp drop to 107. the air temp was around 76 out. The jetting is 500 main jet same pilot jet. worked fine till I got going faster and engine temp dropped to the 107 range bike bogged out wouldn’t go kept dying completely. So I choked the bike to start it, let it warm till about 128 and tried to make it home but it wasn’t happy. it cooled down again and was cut out a little. I idled at the light and temp came up and I made it home. Now I’m here I’m gonna put a 470main in and I would like to notch the slide. I’m very capable I just have no idea what your indicating in the pictures to complete the mod please help me my friend!!! Pinch
Not sure what's going on with your bike, but a couple things to check out

- These bikes like to stay warm. You might try blocking a radiator off a little bit to keep the temps up in the 120-130 range where the bike seems happy.

- Research the "Jarvis" mods. There are situations where the float bowl can actually run out of fuel after long pulls, these mods help fuel get into the main jet cavity quicker.

- If these issues just started, it's possible your top end is wearing out. A compression check never hurts.


On mine it was ok but still super finiky after doing everything described in this thread. I did the Jarvis mods and put in a JD jet kit. I haven't had to touch the carb since.
1
Dev_1leg
Posts
30
Joined
6/11/2019
Location
Glens Falls, NY US
6/12/2019 11:15am
AJ565 wrote:
What do the reeds look like? I wonder if they are toast and not atomizing the fuel correctly.
I bought them brand new 20 hrs ago they are the Vforce 4r I can check to see although I don’t think it’s that def wolnt hurt to look!
Dev_1leg
Posts
30
Joined
6/11/2019
Location
Glens Falls, NY US
6/12/2019 11:19am
dtl210 wrote:
Not sure what's going on with your bike, but a couple things to check out - These bikes like to stay warm. You might try blocking...
Not sure what's going on with your bike, but a couple things to check out

- These bikes like to stay warm. You might try blocking a radiator off a little bit to keep the temps up in the 120-130 range where the bike seems happy.

- Research the "Jarvis" mods. There are situations where the float bowl can actually run out of fuel after long pulls, these mods help fuel get into the main jet cavity quicker.

- If these issues just started, it's possible your top end is wearing out. A compression check never hurts.


On mine it was ok but still super finiky after doing everything described in this thread. I did the Jarvis mods and put in a JD jet kit. I haven't had to touch the carb since.
I would like to just get a 36mm Smart carb sc2 and really really be done with it,

https://technologyelevated.com/product/36mm-sc2-smartcarb/
Dev_1leg
Posts
30
Joined
6/11/2019
Location
Glens Falls, NY US
6/12/2019 9:45pm
470 main 35 pilot clip 3 ran ok till it got colder with in 3 miles acted up did weird stuff, Did the Jarvis mods such as crimped bent overflow notched the slide and dropped the clip to needle position 1 bike runs even more terrible I did pinch the gasket on the top of the carb in half so maybe that’s why 😡 I cut the slide and opened the hole on the slosh guard a size bigger changed the pilot to a 30 didn’t get to ride it because the pinched the gasket this issue is really making mad.. bike will stay running with the choke on but soon as I turn the choke off and touch the throttle it bogs but it sometimes will burst through the power band and then bog again. (Pic is your slide I just circled what I notched

Post a reply to: 17 TC 125 cutting out

The Latest