Put the nut back on by a few threads so that you don't damage the bolt. Give it a few hearty whacks using a heavy solid rod of either steel or better yet brass and a heavy hammer.

Thanks for the advice, I just got done doing exactly that before you posted. I left the nut on and beat the hell out of it with a BFH and a 1/2” steel rod and it won’t move. Should I heat that end at the frame with a torch?

Have you already removed the chain guide on the other side?

Pull up on the back wheel when you try to remove

aone wrote:

Have you already removed the chain guide on the other side?

aone wrote:

Have you already removed the chain guide on the other side?

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+1, chain guide is on the other side to be removed first.

The chain guard isn’t in the way as much as the kickstand mount (xc-f). I removed the back bolt and the dog bone is hanging just by that bolt now. I’ll mess with it when I get off work today, I’ll try to heat it up.

TejasTJ wrote:

The chain guard isn’t in the way as much as the kickstand mount (xc-f). I removed the back bolt and the dog bone is hanging ...more

TejasTJ wrote:

The chain guard isn’t in the way as much as the kickstand mount (xc-f). I removed the back bolt and the dog bone is hanging just by that bolt now. I’ll mess with it when I get off work today, I’ll try to heat it up.

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The chain guide to is bolted to the long pivot bolt you are trying to remove. It needs to come out to slide the long bolt out.

Interesting. I just had the same experience with the bolt on the other end of dogbone on my 17 450SX-F. I didn't think it would ever come out. I finally got it out by raising rear wheel and using a c-clamp to hold dog bone "together" and beating with a 5# sledge. What a pain in the ass. Funnier yet is bolt and fog bone bolt holes were immaculate and looked new. No pitying/rust.

Take the load of it by putting something under the tire, or remove the back 17+bolt first. And of course, chain guide on opposite end needs to be removed...

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

The chain guide to is bolted to the long pivot bolt you are trying to remove. It needs to come out to slide the long bolt out. ...more

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

The chain guide to is bolted to the long pivot bolt you are trying to remove. It needs to come out to slide the long bolt out.

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Here is a picture of the bolt. The chain guide is not attached to this bolt, only the dog bone. The bolt slides out on the right side so it’s really not that much of an issue. I got off work late today but I will try a torch tomorrow.

Interesting, different set up on my KTM. Based on that rust in the photo I bet it just needs some love to knock that thing out.

The flat of the nut looks out of position. Maybe causing some kind of binding.

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

Interesting, different set up on my KTM. Based on that rust in the photo I bet it just needs some love to knock that thing ...more

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

Interesting, different set up on my KTM. Based on that rust in the photo I bet it just needs some love to knock that thing out.

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I noticed my bolt was facing a different direction than most, but I’ve also seen schematic diagrams and other ‘16’s with the bolt facing the way mine is.

I finally got that sucker out. I heated it up with my proapne torch until grease was boiling out. I then drove it out with a socket (8mm) and extension just smaller than the OD of the bolt. It was dry as a bone and had a little surface rust on it.

The 6 point nut is a little chewed up so I’ll get another one eventually but I did notice when loosening this, it’s important to break it loose at the bolt not the nut, because of the flat spot in the nut that rests on the frame.

Anyway, this is why I took it apart in the first place.

I had a hell of a time getting this bolt out of my 15 xc300 a few years ago. That bolt used to have a cone shaped nut held by a flat spot on the frame, the factory loc tite was so good, that the nut spun on the frame tab so nothing could hold the nut...4 hrs later, a torch, half of the bike taken apart, I got that bolt out! I"m happy they changed that design. I"m in the process of greasing my 18 250sx, for the first time, after 25.0hrs of use...all bearings had factory grease & that bolt slid right out.....while we're on the subject... Has anyone had the swingarm needle bearings fall out during greasing them? Dam, they are so small it's hard to find them all....

sandman768 wrote:

I had a hell of a time getting this bolt out of my 15 xc300 a few years ago. That bolt used to have a cone shaped nut held by ...more

sandman768 wrote:

I had a hell of a time getting this bolt out of my 15 xc300 a few years ago. That bolt used to have a cone shaped nut held by a flat spot on the frame, the factory loc tite was so good, that the nut spun on the frame tab so nothing could hold the nut...4 hrs later, a torch, half of the bike taken apart, I got that bolt out! I"m happy they changed that design. I"m in the process of greasing my 18 250sx, for the first time, after 25.0hrs of use...all bearings had factory grease & that bolt slid right out.....while we're on the subject... Has anyone had the swingarm needle bearings fall out during greasing them? Dam, they are so small it's hard to find them all....

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Yes those swingarm bearings are a pain.

rikhek wrote:

Interesting. I just had the same experience with the bolt on the other end of dogbone on my 17 450SX-F. I didn't think it ...more

rikhek wrote:

Interesting. I just had the same experience with the bolt on the other end of dogbone on my 17 450SX-F. I didn't think it would ever come out. I finally got it out by raising rear wheel and using a c-clamp to hold dog bone "together" and beating with a 5# sledge. What a pain in the ass. Funnier yet is bolt and fog bone bolt holes were immaculate and looked new. No pitying/rust.

...more

I had this exact problem and tackled it in the same manner. Not sure why it was so tight as it was in good shape once I got it out.

getting rdy to change shock springs. hopefully mine will come out easier. po for sure had it apart. the torch saves the day again good job.