What valve brand to go with?

Manny555
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Manny555
Edited Date/Time 10/15/2015 9:39pm
Yes I am back again with valve questions. I have figured out im going with titanium valves but what brand? I have a stock motor and stock piston, but I have seen xcledyne valves and been thinking about them but those seem more for full blown race bikes. What valve brand do you guys think I should go with? 2013 kx250f

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dbrunski125 10/5/2015 7:24am
10/5/2015 7:24am
Manny555 wrote:
Yes I am back again with valve questions. I have figured out im going with titanium valves but what brand? I have a stock motor and...
Yes I am back again with valve questions. I have figured out im going with titanium valves but what brand? I have a stock motor and stock piston, but I have seen xcledyne valves and been thinking about them but those seem more for full blown race bikes. What valve brand do you guys think I should go with? 2013 kx250f

Stock motor go oem valves. If you building a race motor go pro circuit titanium valves. Basically everything pro circuit. Can almost buy a pro circuit race bike motor from there catalogue
Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 7:31am
10/5/2015 7:31am
So just use oem cause ive also lookes at the xcledyne ss valves which advertise that are just as good as ti. And what about kibble white valves? And why is it harder to find exhaust valves
dbrunski125 10/5/2015 7:35am
10/5/2015 7:35am
Manny555 wrote:
So just use oem cause ive also lookes at the xcledyne ss valves which advertise that are just as good as ti. And what about kibble...
So just use oem cause ive also lookes at the xcledyne ss valves which advertise that are just as good as ti. And what about kibble white valves? And why is it harder to find exhaust valves
I have no idea what valves your talking about. I'm a two stroke guy. But to be entirely honest, why on earth would you spend like 700+ $ on titanium valves on a completely stock bike. You'd honestly be so much better of buying a slip on pipe and oversize front rotor and using the lest over cash on tires clutch plates etc then you would be putting 4 titanium valves in a bone stock motor. Just my two cents.

But it is your money. Spend it how you want.

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Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 7:40am
10/5/2015 7:40am Edited Date/Time 10/5/2015 7:49am
Manny555 wrote:
So just use oem cause ive also lookes at the xcledyne ss valves which advertise that are just as good as ti. And what about kibble...
So just use oem cause ive also lookes at the xcledyne ss valves which advertise that are just as good as ti. And what about kibble white valves? And why is it harder to find exhaust valves
dbrunski125 wrote:
I have no idea what valves your talking about. I'm a two stroke guy. But to be entirely honest, why on earth would you spend like...
I have no idea what valves your talking about. I'm a two stroke guy. But to be entirely honest, why on earth would you spend like 700+ $ on titanium valves on a completely stock bike. You'd honestly be so much better of buying a slip on pipe and oversize front rotor and using the lest over cash on tires clutch plates etc then you would be putting 4 titanium valves in a bone stock motor. Just my two cents.

But it is your money. Spend it how you want.
My valves are completely shot so my bike wont start and the valve set with springs and retainers are like 200 bucks for the intake side.
FRANZINI499
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 7:04pm
10/5/2015 7:04pm
Oem is always a safe bet. DelWest titanium valves are the best you can get but I don't know what your price range is or your usage. Stay away from any kind of aftermarket Stainless Steel valves, the added spring pressure and harder material pounds the camshaft to death and the valve is heavier so it also makes the bike rev slower and not as high. If you are going to be replacing the valves at all you will need to at least have the valve seats re-cut otherwise those new valves that you spend all the money on are not going to last very long. If you want the economical package that will last and perform reasonably well, just put in oem valves but make sure you have the seats cut otherwise you are wasting your time. If you want something that will be just about bulletproof but will not have the downsides of stainless valves, send your head to Millennium Technologies with your new oem valves and have them make new softer valve seats matched to your specific valves.
Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 7:25pm
10/5/2015 7:25pm
FRANZINI499 wrote:
Oem is always a safe bet. DelWest titanium valves are the best you can get but I don't know what your price range is or your...
Oem is always a safe bet. DelWest titanium valves are the best you can get but I don't know what your price range is or your usage. Stay away from any kind of aftermarket Stainless Steel valves, the added spring pressure and harder material pounds the camshaft to death and the valve is heavier so it also makes the bike rev slower and not as high. If you are going to be replacing the valves at all you will need to at least have the valve seats re-cut otherwise those new valves that you spend all the money on are not going to last very long. If you want the economical package that will last and perform reasonably well, just put in oem valves but make sure you have the seats cut otherwise you are wasting your time. If you want something that will be just about bulletproof but will not have the downsides of stainless valves, send your head to Millennium Technologies with your new oem valves and have them make new softer valve seats matched to your specific valves.
By cute you mean lap them with grindinf compound right?
FRANZINI499
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 7:30pm
10/5/2015 7:30pm
Yeah, it should be done by a professional using diamond cutters and some lapping compound
Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 8:01pm
10/5/2015 8:01pm
FRANZINI499 wrote:
Yeah, it should be done by a professional using diamond cutters and some lapping compound
Alright sweet and ive been thinking about doing the piston and chain too. Can I get to the chain without splitting the case
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jhansen510 10/5/2015 8:10pm
10/5/2015 8:10pm
Do not lap them with grinding compound! Especially the titanium ones! You need to have the valves cut. If the seats are shot which they probably are given you went as long as you did. Have copper beryllium seats installed and then cut.
FRANZINI499
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 8:13pm
10/5/2015 8:13pm
Yeah you just have to remove cams the ignition cover and stator, then take off the flywheel and you will see there is a little gear there on the crank with the chain on it. And for a piston and chain I would not put anything other than OEM in it, the stock compression ratio is 13:8:1 and any aftermarket piston that is over that ratio you will have to run race gas.
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 8:16pm
10/5/2015 8:16pm
jhansen510 wrote:
Do not lap them with grinding compound! Especially the titanium ones! You need to have the valves cut. If the seats are shot which they probably...
Do not lap them with grinding compound! Especially the titanium ones! You need to have the valves cut. If the seats are shot which they probably are given you went as long as you did. Have copper beryllium seats installed and then cut.
Yes I agree, your best bet is to have copper beryllium seats installed and matched to new oem valves or DelWest titanium valves. They will not only make your valves last longer but will increase power. Also they will eliminate any chance of the valve seats falling out of the head due to the expansion of the beryllium is faster than the aluminum head so the fit actually gets tighter when heated up instead of the opposite with the stock steel seats.
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WileCyot 10/5/2015 8:29pm
10/5/2015 8:29pm
BC seats are nasty. Very nasty material to work with.
FRANZINI499
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 8:48pm
10/5/2015 8:48pm
WileCyot wrote:
BC seats are nasty. Very nasty material to work with.
Yes, it is true. And I believe beryllium is the only or one of the only toxic metals, but only if inhaled or ingested in dust form is it deadly. But the copper beryllium seats are usually only 1-2% beryllium and 98-99% copper so the chances are very low, and it is the absolute optimal material for valve seats. That is why you leave that job to the trained professionalsWink
Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 8:53pm
10/5/2015 8:53pm
How much does it cost to get the seats in the head
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 9:21pm
10/5/2015 9:21pm
That oem top end kit is exactly what you want. As for the valves, I would go with the xceldyne kit if you cannot find anything from DelWest. I would stay away from the Kibblewhite ones, the Wiseco's would be ok but what you are looking at there is just a single valve and would have to source springs, retainers, etc. elsewhere. If you are considering putting BeCu seats in, I would strongly suggest talking to someone over at Millennium Technologies. They do some great work, and remember if you do decide to send the head to them I would send them the valves as well so that they can custom match them to your specific valves and it will come back spot on perfect.

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Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 9:26pm
10/5/2015 9:26pm
I will for sure call the or email them. And the only thing with those xceldyne valves is they are not titanium they are stainless
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FRANZINI499 10/5/2015 9:38pm
10/5/2015 9:38pm
Ok, then stay away from those and find some that are titanium. Worst case scenario just buy a set of stock valves, using them with the BeCu seats they will last a lot longer than on the stock seats and will be a much less expensive option, but some good quality one piece TI ones would be ideal.
Manny555
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Manny555 10/5/2015 9:40pm
10/5/2015 9:40pm
Would it be bad if I run the becu seats on the intake and stocks on the exhaust?
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FRANZINI499 10/6/2015 8:37am
10/6/2015 8:37am
No, that would be just fine. If your exhaust valves and seats are within spec then I would just take them out and clean the ports and valves and then reassemble.
Manny555
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Manny555 10/6/2015 8:43am
10/6/2015 8:43am
Sweet thanks mam you guys gave been so much hell
Manny555
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Manny555 10/6/2015 7:09pm
10/6/2015 7:09pm
Has anyone ran the xcledyne ss valves?
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jhansen510 10/6/2015 10:12pm
10/6/2015 10:12pm
DO NOT RUN SS VALVES! It is harder on the valve train due to the heavier weight of the steel. It will also make your bike rev slower! Nothing about MX is cheap. Do not pinch pennies on the head work or valves/parts or you will be upset with the outcome. Doing it right the first time is cheaper then saving money and having to redo it sooner then you should/would have to.
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FRANZINI499 10/6/2015 10:16pm
10/6/2015 10:16pm
jhansen510 wrote:
DO NOT RUN SS VALVES! It is harder on the valve train due to the heavier weight of the steel. It will also make your bike...
DO NOT RUN SS VALVES! It is harder on the valve train due to the heavier weight of the steel. It will also make your bike rev slower! Nothing about MX is cheap. Do not pinch pennies on the head work or valves/parts or you will be upset with the outcome. Doing it right the first time is cheaper then saving money and having to redo it sooner then you should/would have to.
I agree 100%!!!!
Missing_Muffs 10/7/2015 10:56am
10/7/2015 10:56am
seriously? Manny Rodriguez? man I totally made than name up, if she comes looking for you just say you promise you are coming back you just don't know when. sorry bro


Manny555
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Manny555 10/7/2015 11:01am
10/7/2015 11:01am
Missing_Muffs wrote:
seriously? Manny Rodriguez? man I totally made than name up, if she comes looking for you just say you promise you are coming back you just...
seriously? Manny Rodriguez? man I totally made than name up, if she comes looking for you just say you promise you are coming back you just don't know when. sorry bro


Huh? What are you talking about
Manny555
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Manny555 10/11/2015 8:47am
10/11/2015 8:47am
So I hage decided I wanna go with del west or xcledyne valves but can I run stock spring and retainers? Havent read any input on what people do on the springs and retainers

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