Rust removal works 2 stroke pipe.

mx510
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Edited Date/Time 8/12/2019 7:42pm
As the thread title suggests I am trying to get thick rust off of a PC works pipe. I have been using steel wool, scotch brite and simple green. Any other suggestions?????
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BDP381
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Dallas, TX US
9/16/2013 7:15pm
Naval Jelly, make sure and wear gloves.
9/16/2013 11:44pm
A bit of regular old tin foil and WD40 works as good as any other products I have tried.

The Shop

Jakes Dad
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Brooksville, FL US
9/17/2013 6:51am
TSP Tri sodium phosphate, sold at Home Depot. It should attack the majority of the rust before you go at it with a scotch brite pad.
Tdub13
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9/17/2013 9:16am
I'm intrigued by the tinfoil comment. Does the aluminum react with the oxydized steel, or does it just mask the rust? Interesting...
Skerby
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9/17/2013 12:29pm
I start with 400 grit and move up to 1000. then hit it with a polishing wheel on an offset grinder. If it's not shiny enough to see yourself, you're doing it wrong.
newmann
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9/17/2013 7:19pm
Phosphoric acid metal cleaner. Got a local automotive paint supplier? PPG sells DX579. Great stuff. Eagle One aluminum wheel cleaner from the auto parts store will also work. Scrub it with a scotchbrite. Keep it out of the sun and it will stay wet longer. Scrub it clean and rinse with water. Repeat as necessary until clean and rust free. Spray down with oil or WD40.

Tdub13
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9/18/2013 9:13am
...unless your bike really IS a toilet...TonguePinch
lumpy790
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9/18/2013 12:58pm
Tdub13 wrote:
...unless your bike really IS a toilet...TonguePinch
it will cause every bare metal surface to rust .... nuts bolts ect.
FGR01
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9/19/2013 3:57pm Edited Date/Time 9/19/2013 3:58pm
Move to Arizona and never have this problem again.

My 125:

MOTODAD422
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9/19/2013 10:41pm
indy_maico wrote:
WD40 & maroon scotchbrite pads
Definitely Ditto, and after it is clean, use the green scotchbright ,it's finer ,and will look even better.
jsmx97
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9/20/2013 6:34am
FGR01 wrote:
Move to Arizona and never have this problem again. My 125: [img]https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/575778_434097846611379_1251842450_n.jpg[/img]
Move to Arizona and never have this problem again.

My 125:

I'm calling shenanigans that looks brand new!!!
jsmx97
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9/20/2013 6:37am
I used to used any penetrating oil and some maroon scotch bright...worked fine. If i wanted a smoother look I switch to a lighter scotch bright pad or a 2000 grit sand paper. When your done coat it again with WD40 or something similar.

Are you guys getting that much better results with all that special stuff you use??
FGR01
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9/20/2013 9:49am
jsmx97 wrote:
I'm calling shenanigans that looks brand new!!!
It still looks like that after 2 years. I stripped the paint off the stock pipe over 4 years ago and it still has no rust whatsoever. I haven't touched it with WD-40, scothbrite, or anything. One benefit of living in the desert anyway.
newmann
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9/23/2013 2:33pm
jsmx97 wrote:
I used to used any penetrating oil and some maroon scotch bright...worked fine. If i wanted a smoother look I switch to a lighter scotch bright...
I used to used any penetrating oil and some maroon scotch bright...worked fine. If i wanted a smoother look I switch to a lighter scotch bright pad or a 2000 grit sand paper. When your done coat it again with WD40 or something similar.

Are you guys getting that much better results with all that special stuff you use??
Special stuff? That depends on how bad the rust is. And here in Southeast Texas, it gets pretty bad. You can scrub all you want with a scotchbrite and WD but there will still be rust in the pores of the metal. The PPG Metalprep I posted up makes quick work of some really nasty stuff on a bare pipe. Just make sure the pipe is off of the bike as it will discolor cast aluminum and zinc hardware. Anything else I've found seems to take more time. If it's just light surface discoloration, other products and processes probably work just fine.
CamP
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9/23/2013 4:08pm Edited Date/Time 9/23/2013 4:10pm
Go to the local swimming pool supply and buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Mix about 4oz acid into 12oz of water in a plastic container. Always add acid to water, and not the other way around. Adding water to a strong acid can leave you without a face. Wear gloves and eye protection. Don't breathe the fumes.

Brush the solution onto the pipe and it will burn the rust off. Rinse with water and repeat as necessary. Finish with WD40 and Red Scotchbrite.
Berni
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9/25/2013 11:29am
CamP wrote:
Go to the local swimming pool supply and buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Mix about 4oz acid into 12oz of water in a plastic container...
Go to the local swimming pool supply and buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Mix about 4oz acid into 12oz of water in a plastic container. Always add acid to water, and not the other way around. Adding water to a strong acid can leave you without a face. Wear gloves and eye protection. Don't breathe the fumes.

Brush the solution onto the pipe and it will burn the rust off. Rinse with water and repeat as necessary. Finish with WD40 and Red Scotchbrite.
What he said, and if you get bored and want the get that cool look the pipe has when new in the welds, you can heat all the welds with a torch, the heat will make the metal become blue.
9/25/2013 5:09pm
CLR, calcium, lime & rust remover, You can get it at Wal Mart

Cleans it up like new, I've even used it on a works pipe where the rust was rough feeling, not just surface rust and it cleaned it right up
1
sandman768
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7/30/2019 2:50pm
CamP wrote:
Go to the local swimming pool supply and buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Mix about 4oz acid into 12oz of water in a plastic container...
Go to the local swimming pool supply and buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Mix about 4oz acid into 12oz of water in a plastic container. Always add acid to water, and not the other way around. Adding water to a strong acid can leave you without a face. Wear gloves and eye protection. Don't breathe the fumes.

Brush the solution onto the pipe and it will burn the rust off. Rinse with water and repeat as necessary. Finish with WD40 and Red Scotchbrite.
Winner 👍


1
JohnMatrix
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Irvine, CA US
7/30/2019 4:29pm
CLR, calcium, lime & rust remover, You can get it at Wal Mart [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2013/09/25/32747/s1200_71Gl18kd4dL._SL1280.jpg[/img] Cleans it up like new, I've even used it on a works...
CLR, calcium, lime & rust remover, You can get it at Wal Mart

Cleans it up like new, I've even used it on a works pipe where the rust was rough feeling, not just surface rust and it cleaned it right up
Always had luck with CLR and a scotch brite pad
Action69
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Howard Beach, NY US
7/30/2019 6:23pm
I used the tinfoil trick on a chrome axle ,it took off the surface rust but dulled the chrome out..
captmoto
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA US
7/31/2019 9:11am
Tell me where to find tinfoil please.

I used Lime Away, same thing as CLR. Both go back to the 80's. There are a few better though more expensive metal preservatives but they all burn off in just a couple minutes. I use Fluid Film. You can get it at Home Depot.
karlz
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GB
7/31/2019 1:18pm Edited Date/Time 7/31/2019 1:19pm
Ive used Coca-Cola and a scotchbrite on light rust, it may work on deep rust.
yz133rider
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8/1/2019 9:41am
Seriously a gallon or two of white vinegar and some water, submerge the pipe in it over night or longer depending how bad the rust is.

$2 worth of product. It will come out nearly like new. Might have to wipe off some rust. Hit it with wd40 immedialy upon removal from the vinegar or it will flash rust since its bare metal again.
sandman768
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8/2/2019 4:42pm
I have a pool, so I had some muratic acid, I mixed with water in a spray bottle... here is before & after with a scotch brite pad, about 20 minutes worth of sanding, then rinse with water, then wd40 wipe down.




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Falcon
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8/6/2019 6:38pm
If you have access to a bench grinder, get a wire wheel on that baby and go to town. I did that to a bare pipe once and it came out like new.

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