Rear Shock Snap Ring

Edited Date/Time 12/9/2015 5:42am
So what's the best way to get the snap ring out that keeps the shaft and valve stack inside? I have tried using a handful of screw drivers and a pick. The smaller ones generally bend and the bigger ones can't seem to get behind the ring (ground the blades of the screw drivers to a tip, as well as made the pick sharp). Obviously the shock shaft being in the way doesn't help.

I was thinking of using a dremel/drill to drill a hole above the ring and angle it behind it, so I can get something behind it (similar to how pistons are).

Any ideas? Persevere with screw drivers? It's even more frustrating because putting in a ring with holes probably would be possible!
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slipdog
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12/5/2015 6:12pm
I always use a pick and it is never a problem. You could also try using a feeler gauge.
12/5/2015 8:13pm
Well this shock looks like it has never been rebuilt because there was a lot of debris behind the cap. I'll know for sure when I get the valve stack out. I'll try getting some feel gauges in there.
mb
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12/5/2015 8:31pm
Make sure you've got everything clean in there. I always use two small flat blades. Push the ring out of the groove and down into the shock body near one of the ends. Use one screwdriver right before the ring seats back into the groove and use the other one to compress the very end of the ring some more and lever it up and out. Never used a feeler gauge but I can see how it would achieve the same thing, maybe a little easier.
Factor E
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12/5/2015 9:08pm Edited Date/Time 12/5/2015 9:12pm
I've used this for yrs from Snap on

Seal Remover, Spoon Tip, 5 11/32", Red

0 stars
11.45 USD
Item: SGSR3AR

The Shop

12/5/2015 10:33pm
Thanks for the tips. What I ended up doing was drilling a very small hole (about 1mm in diameter) where the snap ring goes and was able to push it out that way. And as suspected this shock has never been rebuilt (in 12/13 years) so it was super difficult to remove. I don't think the extra hole will pose a problem since the snap ring is outside of the sealed shock. Now I just have to grind down the peening on the outside of the nut using a grinder and the shock will be ready for servicing when the parts arrive.

Any idea on the volume of oil typically required for a shock rebuild? I have about 400ml left over from fork rebuilds (Honda Fork Cushion Oil 5W) but I think it might be a little short.
mb
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12/6/2015 9:18am
I always end up using about 75-80% of a bottle.

Also, fork oil is not suitable for use in the shock.
12/7/2015 7:43pm
mb wrote:
I always end up using about 75-80% of a bottle.

Also, fork oil is not suitable for use in the shock.
It's what the Honda manual recommends though?

motosicko
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Denver, CO US
12/7/2015 8:23pm
My suspension tuner showed me a trick to getting those snap rings out a few years ago. A shim slides under the ring and pops it out really easily.
lumpy790
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York, SC US
12/7/2015 9:25pm
make sure you debur the hole you drilled or it will cut the oring
12/8/2015 3:02am
motosicko wrote:
My suspension tuner showed me a trick to getting those snap rings out a few years ago. A shim slides under the ring and pops it...
My suspension tuner showed me a trick to getting those snap rings out a few years ago. A shim slides under the ring and pops it out really easily.
Yeah, I saw videos of people popping them out with no trouble which was why I was so confused. I'm chalking it up to the fact this shock hasn't been touched since it was made 13 years ago and the build up of debris (even after cleaning).

Thanks for the tips though. And the hole is covered by the ring but I have made sure everything is flush. Now waiting for the parts to arrive.
mb
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Columbia, SC US
12/8/2015 7:43am
If it's what the OEM recommends than run it.
12/9/2015 5:42am
mb wrote:
If it's what the OEM recommends than run it.
It seems we were both right. My fork oil was 10W and the manual says 5W. Nonetheless, I needed more oil anyway and the Honda shop had what I needed in stock. The shock oil is the 'special' fork oil, literally.

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