Posts
256
Joined
4/17/2013
Location
Chippewa Falls, WI
US
Edited Date/Time
8/18/2020 12:02pm
Hey everybody, I decided to do another bike (last one was a 2008 RM250), cant get bikes out of my blood!
Anyway, the bike of choice this time is a 1987 Honda CR250R. I am planning on doing a to the frame, RJ type replica with USD forks. I have already been working on this for a month so am catching everybody up. I have a brand new 89 CR250R aluminum side case that I will be putting on, any guidance on that will be appreciated.
Here are a few pics of my CR when it first arrived. I purchased this from CA, total cost to my door in WI was $1775, not cheap but not too bad for a semi clean running bike.
Anyway, the bike of choice this time is a 1987 Honda CR250R. I am planning on doing a to the frame, RJ type replica with USD forks. I have already been working on this for a month so am catching everybody up. I have a brand new 89 CR250R aluminum side case that I will be putting on, any guidance on that will be appreciated.
Here are a few pics of my CR when it first arrived. I purchased this from CA, total cost to my door in WI was $1775, not cheap but not too bad for a semi clean running bike.
And here is the video!
I will be yanking out this pre filter somebody installed.
The boss surveying my work lol
The Shop
I am for sure rebuilding the original forks and will keep them on the side just in case I want to try them out. FYI before reassembly I am sending my suspension out to Pro Circuit (93 Forks and stock shock) but will be keeping the originals with their stock valving.
Anybody have any leads on an Ohlins or Fox Twin clicker shock and/or a Pro Circuit Works Swingarm for this bike? I am sure they will be next to impossible to find...
Do me favour and keep hold of all the stock parts.
Mine and my 1988 both rotted through the water pump case; when I clicked your YouTube, the next vid that came up was a 1987 cr500 rebuild and his cases were rotten too...he did a nice reweld job
I understand pros wanting USD forks, but for weekend racers, the old style were more plush, and those 87 forks were the plushest of the plush. In my opinion, Honda has STILL not equaled those 87 cartridge forks. Anyhow, have fun and I look forward to more pictures of the build!
Pit Row
You know how it is, two years off and you start thinking "maybe I will redo a bike and ride it once in a blue moon, just for a hobby"
Ya right, it never works out that way lol
Pic of my 87 first CR250 in my bedroom, circa 1992!
You can see the tip up in this pic
90084-KF9-900 (alternator cap cover) and part number 91303-377-000 (o ring for alternator cap)
Do I need those?
Also I am concerned about adjusting my powervalves after the new cases are on, any tips? I found some conflicting info, here is what others had to say....
"There is a caveat to using the 89 though. The HPP Power valve is notoriously hard to adjust and maintain. I imagine there are a lot of these CR's around that run poorly because the power valves are not adjusted correctly. When you use an 89 right side case with the 87 water pump and center cases you lose the ability to disengage the power valve governor mechanism externally (which is why there is a access cap on the 89 and a threaded hole on the 87). The only way to reinstall the cylinder with the power valve actuation arm is to remove the right side case, drop the cylinder into place and match up the power valve actuator arm and then reinstall the right side case. I spent many hours getting the power valve adjusted correctly and then had to remove the right side case to install the cylinder because of this issue."
then somebody responded...
"Instead of removing the side cover in order to install the cylinder, why can't you just leave the side cover installed? Then, when you go to install the cylinder, hold the powervalves closed as you drop the cylinder onto the cases. That is how I did it before and after the "89 model side case upgrade
They should be closed anyway. If you have to hold them closed there is something wrong. Chances are the shaft splines are not lined up right when you dropped them into the cylinder which would cause them to not close completely."
then the first guy said...
"I am going to have to respectfully disagree. When the cylinder is not on the engine, the valves will naturally be in the open position. On the 1986 and 1987 CR250, the only thing holding the power valves closed is the governor shaft that comes up from the water pump area. If you remove the cylinder from the engine cases, the power valves should snap open immediately. Basically, on these models, the governor shaft is the only thing that closes the power valves. Conversley, the powervalve springs in the top of the cylinder are the only things that open the valves. There is no mechanical connection between the governor shaft and the powervalve rack that can "pull" the power valves open. Again, this is in reference to the 1986 and 1987 models only."
It seems to me that a person can hold the valves closed while dropping on the cylinder. You adjust the valves before installation correct?
Help! I really want my powervalves adjusted correctly, thanks so much!
Also do I need to use the old "cup" around the spring in the new cover or just ditch the spring cup?
One more thing. I don't get what the bolt is for on the old cover, the one that goes through the cover and puts pressure on the spring cup. Why is it even there? How does not having this affect my motor?
Thanks so much for the help, you are saving me mucho headaches.
Thanks again for the help
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