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hi so I started a thread about why my suzuki rm pistons keep getting blow by im on my second piston with about 3 hours on it and Its starting to get blow by already
so I put pics up and some of the old piston a few things were sugested one thing was to check the squish as the bike has been ported and has a an aftermarket cdi I was told it should run on premium pump gas
so im wondering if the cause is possibly detonation like suggested im hoping I don't have to run race fuel hopefully its something else so does anyone know what the squish should be for a slightly modified head to run premium pump gas on a 08 suzuki rm 125
Thanks in advance
so I put pics up and some of the old piston a few things were sugested one thing was to check the squish as the bike has been ported and has a an aftermarket cdi I was told it should run on premium pump gas
so im wondering if the cause is possibly detonation like suggested im hoping I don't have to run race fuel hopefully its something else so does anyone know what the squish should be for a slightly modified head to run premium pump gas on a 08 suzuki rm 125
Thanks in advance
Remember that all squish is , is a place where the fuel mixture is cooler and thus burns slower so as to not develop the pitting around the edge of the piston. Now I don't know what the OEM spec's were for the squish in your engine, but these figures come from a 2 stroke tuning guide. It will require a good 93 octane fuel mix, but not race gas.
Paw Paw
I have been watching some youtube videos on how to measure it but do you or anyone have any tips/advice on doing it taht may help would be appreciated
Thanks Darren
As you are in the UK I would recommend Tesco/Esso Super Unleaded 98 octane, I've ran that for years with 0 issues. Shell premium is also good.
A cheap way to make small changes to the squish measurement is via the base gasket.
I bought several from Athena (http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/models/view/4115-section-33/suzuki-rm-125) when doing my RM250. Actually surprisingly cheap and quick postage.
It is worth researching what raising/lowering the barrel will do to your bike before doing this though as it may not be what you are looking for power wise.
I think I will try and set it to what has been and see how it feels on the track and if its not what I was expecting I will and find a uk engine tuner and see they suggest
the only part im confused on is the 5 degree increase in incline towards the spark plug bit how do measure the angle
The Shop
As long as it is soft and easy to compress then it should work fine. 1.6mm will be perfect as you will be expecting a squish measurement of anywhere from 1-1.5mm
also looking at the vhm heads that mine has and the domes squish say 0.90mm 0.039" so will be interesting to see if the one I have is any different but also has me wondering if 0.030" as stated above would still be too small for pump gas
will post up results when it turns up
so has me wondering why im having piston problems if its not too tight squish and im running premium pump fuel anyone have any suggestions
I have it booked in at the end of month with my local garage to have a look and weld a small crack where the drain bolt is
thanks in advance Darren
You could be running it a hair lean, reducing the overall life. You could have an air leak causing more air into the mixture, again running lean.
What oil are you running?
Paw Paw
kott0n my piston are getting blow by at low hours and some detonation on the previous one there is some faint scrape marks on the new one think I may have been a tad lean when it was at a sand track running rock oil synthesis 2 racing at 32/1
slipdog I will look into the ignition thing more but I think its a hpi one which doesn't seem to say anything about the need for race fuel I will message them to see what they say
paw paw the squish is 0.035" from what I can gather thats stock vhm insert squish is that no good then
also does anyone know any decent tuners in the UK
thanks for all the help
but just out interest does any part of my setup so far sound like it could be the cause ie squish ignition or anything else that I failed to mention
also what would the signs of a possible air leak be not saying it is that just wondering
im also considering running avgas mix premium pump fuel if anyone has any advice on this
thanks in advance
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Race-Shop,42/Rm-125-enduro-build,1296503
Engine mods actually came with the bike when I bought it, VHM Head( used a thicker basegasket to set the squish to 1mm, to prevent detonation), Vforce Reedcage, Procircuit exhaust(makes a little more overrev), jetting.
Piston change every 20 hours, Pistonring 10 hours, crank bearings and rod 50 hours..
Be sure to change these items to prevent damaging more geardogs:
25355-37F00, 09440-04003 x2, 09209-05023 x2, 25323-34201, 25324-34201.
These were the parts I changed when i replaced worn gears and a worn "Shaft, drive".. Bike is shifting 100% correctly and is super smooth.
Since you are doing a enduro build you should send away either your cylinder or your head so the bike gets more bottom end because what i´ve felt there is no power down low at all ( a shorter silencer should help a little bit with more "pop" out of the corners)
at first I thought if you have it too tight then you will get detonation then I thought if its too big it causes detonation im going to try and do a bit more homework first
also going to try some avgas see if I can stop detonation without any other unwanted side effects
failing that I will try whats stated above and failing that I will take it to one of the engine tuners that have been suggested
tahnks for all the help so far
The answer is not always adding more octane. Too much octane will hurt performance as it will burn too slow.
Also squish is explained in great detail.
Paw Paw
If you are getting blow by on the piston, maybe you need to hone the glaze of the cylinder to get the ring sealing better?
Don't forget, the rm125 runs that expensive spark plug because it's got quite an aggressive ignition.....run a regular plug at your peril.
Pit Row
I will give the av fuel a try probably try something like 60% premium pump fuel 40 av see if it works if doesn't then I will bite the bullet and take to someone that knows what they are doing
I will talk to the garage about the cylinder when I get it booked in haven't had chance to get it in shop yet
thanks Darren
so I have roughly 2 possibly 3 more hours on the same piston that has blow by on it before getting it to the garage
they have checked it out and there isnt any signs of detonation so far thankfully so that's good news the verdict on the blow by was that it was caused by dirt again
they asked if I clean my filters after riding which I do and I have checked the airboot for signs of any dirt getting through or past my filters and it looks clean
the only thing I could think of was my tank may have some dirt in there so going to give that a good wash out with brake cleaner
hopefully will find the source of the dirt if anyone has any other suggestions what to check would be helpful if not I will update what I find
The thing you may be overlooking is piston to bore clearance .
You need to get an engineering shop to check this.
Here's what i'm talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7KaxX1lC78
Oh & here's how to check the squish
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDnZk53AxA4
Hope this helps
but the shop fitted the piston that is in there now so I would hope that they put the correct size in there
I have known main dealers on the phone that dont have the equipment or understand the concept.
It did have a B piston in it and the new one is a B also
my brother said he knows someone who can check the bore for me hes a car mechanic so hes pretty helpful when it comes to fixing bikes
SPARK PLUG NGK, R6918B-8
I come across these random markings on the cylinder just wondered if would be an insight into who did the cylinder work or who it belonged to as I was told it was a factory cylinder
or is it just normal to have these sort of markings
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