Posts
147
Joined
3/26/2019
Location
AU
Edited Date/Time
12/11/2019 8:15pm
Hey Guy's :-)
I'm wanting to build a set of rear Skunkworks linkages for my DT1 racebike, I remember there was a 7" and 11" kit, I ran the 7" kit on my Suz TM125L back in '75, I liked them (pity the 15 year old kid had no idea that the spring rate needed to be upped ;-) ), I have no idea what ever happened to them :-)
Not many sets made it here to Australia, but I imagine that there could still be some floating around the US? I'd appreciate if I could make contact with someone that has a set and get some dimensions.
Now knowing how they work, I could probably stumble across the correct dimensions after making a few sets; I'd rather be on the money first time :-)
http://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2012/11/skunk-works-gp-suspension…
Regards, John.
I'm wanting to build a set of rear Skunkworks linkages for my DT1 racebike, I remember there was a 7" and 11" kit, I ran the 7" kit on my Suz TM125L back in '75, I liked them (pity the 15 year old kid had no idea that the spring rate needed to be upped ;-) ), I have no idea what ever happened to them :-)
Not many sets made it here to Australia, but I imagine that there could still be some floating around the US? I'd appreciate if I could make contact with someone that has a set and get some dimensions.
Now knowing how they work, I could probably stumble across the correct dimensions after making a few sets; I'd rather be on the money first time :-)
http://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2012/11/skunk-works-gp-suspension…
Regards, John.
I have been thinking of making a set that way for a bike I'm building, but I found a test of the 7" version by Dirt Bike or MXA, who really wanted to like it, but said that with the recommended heavier springs, it was unusably stiff over small bumps, especially braking bumps. When I look at the ad, I wonder whether they inadvertently made it a falling-rate linkage in order to fit the available space. I could be wrong, but shouldn't the shock start perpendicular to the lower arm of the linkage, and swing to a more acute angle to make the rate rise?
If you try that on the bike in the photo below, I think the lower arm fouls the axle or adjuster area before it would bottom, plus you need a longer upper arm, unless you use a shorter shock. The 11" version didn't have the same falling-rate issue due to the swingarm shock mount being farther forward on something like a 1976 Elsinore. I hope there is a contemporary suspension maven out there who can clear this up, as I may have it backwards and be quite wrong, but if I made one for my bike, I intended to use different dimensions to address the issue I believe the original had.
I cannot link directly to the article, as it is a PDF download, but it's the Skunk Works item at article for a good look at the construction of the links.
The Shop
Probably only need a 20-30% higher than stock spring rate, and same increase in rebound damping if possible, like one click heavier on old Konis. I should think that when you mock it up, you can work out how to prevent the link from bottoming on the rear axle or adjusters, maybe by using shorter shocks but increasing their mechanical advantage a bit.
Yamaha DT400 YZ360 YZ250A DT250 DT360 Skunk Works Rear Shocks Absorbers
EBAY - Yamaha Skunkworks rear linkage
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