Very Nice 1979 CR 250 in For Sale/Bazaar section.

swatdoc
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6/15/2018 12:22pm
Kenny do you have any more of those billet rear motor mounts? I could use a few of those! I do have an aluminum one on my ‘79, but not nearly as nice.

6/15/2018 3:05pm
swatdoc wrote:
Kenny do you have any more of those billet rear motor mounts? I could use a few of those! I do have an aluminum one on...
Kenny do you have any more of those billet rear motor mounts? I could use a few of those! I do have an aluminum one on my ‘79, but not nearly as nice.

Now that is some sweet eye candy. I want that swing arm! Smile
PK97
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6/15/2018 3:47pm
That makes two of us Mike on the swing arm!!!
swatdoc
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6/15/2018 4:39pm Edited Date/Time 6/15/2018 4:44pm
I am very anxiously awaiting the release of the PDE swingarms. I'm sure they will be awesome. Would be super easy for them to run a weld bead down the arm as an option, for that RC look. I'll prob be one of the first to order one from Stevie - I need a new arm for my Tripes replica.

BTW - here is where I got some of my billet CR parts, including my rear motor mount (if you even notice the motorcycle parts on this webpage, LOL):
http://www.siegecraftnw.com/CP_Ray_evoparts.htm

The Shop

6/15/2018 6:37pm Edited Date/Time 7/8/2018 6:41am
There is Red Rocket info in the Mugen 360 thread, including a carb rebuild reference.

http://hollyequip.blog.jp/archives/4707618.html

http://hollyequip.blog.jp/archives/cat_141070.html
Ok.. here is a translation of the carb article;
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Carb Problems?

There weren't any oil leaks, and today it started first kick. If it's an everyday 430, That's a machine I can work on with my eyes closed, but I was nervous about the 360cc engine. I put on my boots and started it.

It had great compression and started right up, and I finished testing the clutch & transmission operation.

However, all was not good... · · · The engine accelerated very slowly with this dam carburetor. Original OEM
replacement parts are almost obsolete, so I tried the following..

1) Replaced the existing parts of this carb with parts from a company called DACHI & OH.

2) Replaced the cab internals with parts that I knew were good and taken from another one of the bikes in my shop.

3) Replaced the whole carb with another one taken from a bike in my shop

The 3rd try was the charm, however it is not as good as if I had a brand new Mikuni carb.

While it was a really beautiful looking carb, performance wise it just didn't work out. I have come to the conclusion that you just cant take this carb body and replace its internal parts.

Here is the conundrum..

1) Appearance-wise you can use the KEIHIN carb & stick to originality.

2) If you really want top performance, go with the Mikuni VM

Which route would you take? I really want an original NOS PE carb.

I will fret about this a little more.
6/15/2018 6:52pm
swatdoc wrote:
I am very anxiously awaiting the release of the PDE swingarms. I'm sure they will be awesome. Would be super easy for them to run a...
I am very anxiously awaiting the release of the PDE swingarms. I'm sure they will be awesome. Would be super easy for them to run a weld bead down the arm as an option, for that RC look. I'll prob be one of the first to order one from Stevie - I need a new arm for my Tripes replica.

BTW - here is where I got some of my billet CR parts, including my rear motor mount (if you even notice the motorcycle parts on this webpage, LOL):
http://www.siegecraftnw.com/CP_Ray_evoparts.htm
She wasn't quite my type so I was able to scroll down quickly past the face, but hesitated for a moment around the boobies, and then found the nice parts at the bottom. Thanks!
6/15/2018 10:13pm Edited Date/Time 6/16/2018 6:28am
Here is a translation of Holly's (Horiguchi-san's) article with all the pictures of his Mugen ME360 build..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mission Completed! ...Yahoo!!!

It has been a while since I got the bike in July 2011 (after 22 months of searching, I didn't find the Mugen swingarm), but this ME 360 project is almost finished. However, I still have to get the tank mounted and a few other things.

The grommet is a Holly original part, while the collar and the & bolt are works replicas. The fuel tank cap is a reproduction of the original, and the graphics are a perfect copy of the original.

The fuel petcock is NOS, the collar and the O-ring are brand new OEM parts. the bolt is a works replica. The tank is also perfectly painted underneath in the tunnel. The tank cap breather hose is OEM Suzuki and is the right inside and outside diameter, as well as material.

The reproduction fuel tank cap is made of Duracon resin, and is made by Pro Shop Shimizu.

The side panels are from VMX racing, the graphics are reproductions, the grommet and band are OEM, the collar and bolt are works replicas.

The seat cover is made by Myoga??, the seat brackets are powder coated, and the seat mount bolts are work replica pieces.

The Mugen decals were carefully applied to the swing arm, and finally the SHOWA decals on the forks!

Here are some pictures of what it looked like when I started.

It really took a long time, but it is finally completed!

I am exceptionally happy!

Here is a video of the final inspection. Gas and oil were completely removed after shooting this video.

Even today, the Showa works forks and shocks look state of art. That's excellent. This machine will be exhibited at Sugo on August 10th.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In addition to the images;

1) Gun coated sprocket / guard

2) OEM mounting grommet

3) OEM mounting collar

4) Works Replica Bolt 6-16

5) Works Replica Bolt 6 - 80

Are all required, of course.

I was able to complete the test start of the ME 360 successfully.

Everyone, let's restore (our bikes) and share this happiness!
6/16/2018 6:41am Edited Date/Time 6/16/2018 6:41am
Ok.. spent quite a bit of money already without your guys help Wink . Parts ordered from VMX racing, Holly Equip, Stevie Denton, as well as some NOS parts from ebay.

I also got these nice Fox air shocks.. thanks Todd!..



At this point, I decided to nostalgically build the bike like I raced it back in the day (with Fox air shocks and air assisted stock forks) with some additional parts that give it an RC works image.. billet parts, white gas cap, and HRC replica bolts.

I have a few questions that I hope you guys can help me with;
-I bought some regular Tahitian red paint to touch up the frame, but where did you guys find the Tahitian red engine paint which is a much flatter color? I cant find it.
-Anyone sell replacement fork springs for the stock 37mm forks, even the stock rate?
-Wossner or Wiseco piston & rings?

Thanks,
mike
newmann
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6/16/2018 6:59am
The engine paint is either a single stage automotive paint with a flattening base added or a basecoat/ clearcoat with low gloss matte finish clear.

Wossner ad Wiseco are both forged pistons. I would send the cylinder to Millenium and make sure it is properly clearanced before running either of those in place of the stock cast piston.
6/16/2018 12:17pm
Thanks.. I was thinking the engine paint was of the high-temp variety.

I ended up finding an NOS Honda piston and ring set... and quite a bit of NOS stuff actually.
swatdoc
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6/16/2018 2:00pm
Holly uses KG Gunkote in flat red for his engines
6/16/2018 2:07pm
ledger wrote:
Tokyo T, post a few pics of your new ride if you don't mind, I'd like to see it again. Thanks.
Here are the pics you asked for, Ledger. 100% original.. nothing changed or missing. It still hasn't been washed or anything.. maybe in decades. You can see how much time is on her by the wear on the original tires which have no rot whatsoever and not hard. She is not perfect, but most of the wear is from storage and not riding. She will clean up nice. I could paint the frame and everything to make it look perfect, but I am not sure that is the right thing to do since you lose what is special about the originality even with a few warts. I will definitely paint the cylinder and the front sprocket guard. Not s sure about the rest. Those original "Claw" tires sucked at the track, but not sure if I should replace those either. They are quite a time capsule piece in themselves. I would like to ride it a few times at Southwick and Unadilla VMX classes, but I need to give up riding totally after breaking my back riding a few years ago. This bike is in better condition than I am after almost 50 years of MX.






ledger
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6/16/2018 5:42pm Edited Date/Time 6/16/2018 7:56pm
She's a beauty! I don't see how it could get any better than that, unless there's one in a crate. Hard to believe the bike is 40 year's old, she's just 17 year's younger than I am, Laughing . I'm somewhat in the same boat as you when it comes to riding...I'm close to physically toasted, but still get a kick out of play'n in the dirt, lol. I'm happy that you got this bike,it's a jewel and it's definitely in good hands. Congrats Mike, and thanks for the pics. Alan.
swatdoc
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6/16/2018 6:57pm
try Cannon Racecraft for fork springs - they can make just about any size.weight
PK97
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6/16/2018 7:33pm
I got some springs from Race Tech that require a PVC spacer to set the pre- load.
6/16/2018 8:54pm
Thanks guys.. I will check out Cannon Racecraft and RaceTech.. If I was going to race this bike consistently, I woul have like a new pair of Ohlins in the back and Modified XR650 forks in the front, but I rationalized with myself that it wouldn't be worth it to try a couple of VMX races. I got a set of old DG air fork caps for the front, and plan to get as much spring in there as I can with a little air assist.

PK67: so Race Tech was able to sell you a new pair of springs? (probably stock rate or close to it and the PVC to stiffen up the pre-load on the soft spring, I imagine). I will take whatever I can get even if it only stiffens it up a little so I don't have to use as much air.

mike
6/18/2018 6:13pm
Contacted Race Tech and they did have springs in 3 different weights for the stock fork.. .38kg, .43kg and .48kg. The recommended .48kg for a 175lb B-level rider and 15 weight oil. I mentioned that I had a pair of DG air fork caps for it and they suggested starting at zero and increasing air pressure in 5 lb increments until bottoming is where I want it.

If I was going to do serious VMX, I would have done the 43mm cartridge forks from a late model XR650 with the gold valve modification, and a set of Ohlins or Race Tech rear shocks.

I will just cruise around a couple of VMX "Rewind" races at Unadilla, but other than that, the bike will just be for display as a 1978 RC imposter bike.

I can't seem to be able to find any pre-cut number plate backgrounds for the 78-79 model. Anyone know where they can be bought or do you have to make them yourself for this old bike?

PK97
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6/18/2018 6:46pm
I think the best thing for the side plates is to paint them on. That is what I have done and looks good
6/18/2018 7:44pm
PK97 wrote:
I think the best thing for the side plates is to paint them on. That is what I have done and looks good
can you share some pics of you bike, PK97? Would like to see it. Thanks.
6/19/2018 4:51am
Contacted Race Tech and they did have springs in 3 different weights for the stock fork.. .38kg, .43kg and .48kg. The recommended .48kg for a 175lb...
Contacted Race Tech and they did have springs in 3 different weights for the stock fork.. .38kg, .43kg and .48kg. The recommended .48kg for a 175lb B-level rider and 15 weight oil. I mentioned that I had a pair of DG air fork caps for it and they suggested starting at zero and increasing air pressure in 5 lb increments until bottoming is where I want it.

If I was going to do serious VMX, I would have done the 43mm cartridge forks from a late model XR650 with the gold valve modification, and a set of Ohlins or Race Tech rear shocks.

I will just cruise around a couple of VMX "Rewind" races at Unadilla, but other than that, the bike will just be for display as a 1978 RC imposter bike.

I can't seem to be able to find any pre-cut number plate backgrounds for the 78-79 model. Anyone know where they can be bought or do you have to make them yourself for this old bike?

Mike, EVO-MX over here in the UK do custom printed number plate back grounds for the Rockets. Awesome quality and great people to deal with. They do all ours.

Stevie
PK97
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6/19/2018 8:15am
Mike,

Mine has been a slow build, should have the motor built up and installed by the end of July. Fox Shocks are being sent off for rebuild and anodizing. I have a thread on here for PK's 79 CR 250 build as well showing what I started with.





6/19/2018 10:40am
Contacted Race Tech and they did have springs in 3 different weights for the stock fork.. .38kg, .43kg and .48kg. The recommended .48kg for a 175lb...
Contacted Race Tech and they did have springs in 3 different weights for the stock fork.. .38kg, .43kg and .48kg. The recommended .48kg for a 175lb B-level rider and 15 weight oil. I mentioned that I had a pair of DG air fork caps for it and they suggested starting at zero and increasing air pressure in 5 lb increments until bottoming is where I want it.

If I was going to do serious VMX, I would have done the 43mm cartridge forks from a late model XR650 with the gold valve modification, and a set of Ohlins or Race Tech rear shocks.

I will just cruise around a couple of VMX "Rewind" races at Unadilla, but other than that, the bike will just be for display as a 1978 RC imposter bike.

I can't seem to be able to find any pre-cut number plate backgrounds for the 78-79 model. Anyone know where they can be bought or do you have to make them yourself for this old bike?

StevieD113 wrote:
Mike, EVO-MX over here in the UK do custom printed number plate back grounds for the Rockets. Awesome quality and great people to deal with. They...
Mike, EVO-MX over here in the UK do custom printed number plate back grounds for the Rockets. Awesome quality and great people to deal with. They do all ours.

Stevie
Just ordered a set, Stevie.. many thanks for the tip!

mike
6/19/2018 3:39pm Edited Date/Time 7/8/2018 6:52am
PK97 wrote:
Mike, Mine has been a slow build, should have the motor built up and installed by the end of July. Fox Shocks are being sent off...
Mike,

Mine has been a slow build, should have the motor built up and installed by the end of July. Fox Shocks are being sent off for rebuild and anodizing. I have a thread on here for PK's 79 CR 250 build as well showing what I started with.





PK97,

I love your build as that is almost exactly how I was envisioning my build. We must be the same age and influenced by the same era 1976-78 of the RC bikes. We certainly have very similar tastes in the Red Rocket builds. Since you used the red fork boots, I imagine you were a fan of the killer 1976 RC500 that Karsmakers rode? The gold rims are also a very nice touch. A few questions..

-whose front motor mounts are those?
-Is that an VMX racing front fender?.. looks a little different than others I have seen, but might just be the angle.
-What is that wrapping on the front fork lowers made of? Is that a piece of white foam taped on with red tape?

mike
FreshTopEnd
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6/19/2018 5:05pm
Front fender looks like an earlier year CR.

newmann
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6/19/2018 5:11pm
Front fender looks like an earlier year CR.

76-78 CR125 / 75-76 CR250 front fender, same as used on the 77 RC’s. Now if someone could figure out that 77 RC rear fender, everyone could get their replicas that much closer. They didn’t use the 75-76 CR250 rear did they?? Off to google...
PK97
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Huntsville, AL US
6/19/2018 5:24pm
Mike,

Thanks for the comments. Yes, I really like the 1977 Type II RC250 and RC500 that Smith, Croft, and Pomeroy rode.

Newmann and FTE are correct, 1976 CR 125/250 front fender from VMX.

I got the front motor mounts off of eBay about a year ago. Check there or I'm sure Stevie D has some.

Sometimes in '77 those guys ran the red fork boots, I like the look.

The rims are from Full Circle.

Couldn't find any fork protectors, saw a post here in old school about how some guys were making their own.
I made a paper template, used a RubberMade tall kitchen trash can for the plastic and cut them out. Looked around and that was the best source of plastic I could find. Zip tied them to a piece of pipe and formed them with a heat gun.
Left them zip tied for about month and had to hit them with the heat gun a couple of more times.

PK

Hope to get a Holly tank in the near future.
ledger
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6/19/2018 5:52pm
Just a side note...the front motor mounts from eBay are fairly thick, so your'e gonna need longer bolt's, probably an extra 10mm to secure them. Also, as PK97 mentioned cutting up a trash can for fork guards is perfect, I did the same and rolled the guards tight and slid them into PVC pipe and applied heat untill I was satisfied...I forget what size PVC but it worked out great. Hey PK97...good look'n bike!!
6/19/2018 7:24pm Edited Date/Time 7/8/2018 6:55am
Ah, so I thought it looked like the front fender from my old 76 CR125.. like Pierre Karsmakers 76 Type I RC500 had.. one of the most beautiful works bikes of all time and a mind blower when it first showed up at the races. I like the way that fender looks on there!

I think I bought the same engine mounts off ebay. Fork protectors made out of plastic trash buckets.. how innovative Smile

mike

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