Stupid silly ‘87 RM 125H rebuild

JohnPainter
Posts
18
Joined
10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
Edited Date/Time 2/16/2020 6:50am
Why oh why do I buy cheap old (but not that old) bikes and get them running? To support the second hand parts market? See if my wife’s ability to swear is more fluent (she’s Hungarian)? Or maybe because garage therapy is pennies on the dollar compared to traditional psychotherapy. Well, I don’t know.

But here is my latest lost cause, a nothing special 1987 RM125 H with seized engine.


As you can probably guess I got it off Craigslist for $200.

Complete (well, we’ll see) but with mangled handle bars. And you can’t forget the free mouse nest in the airbox!



I’ll cut to the chase, the engine was seized because of this.



Left side crank bearing.

Why did it seize? My guess is.....



A catastrophic failure, probably ring failure. Look at that head! That thing had some s#%t in it!

Anyway after cleaning the brown goop out of the jug, no it’s not rust, it’s really really comprised engine oil, it looks to be pretty good.



So the engine comes out of the bike so I can clean up the frame, and scrape all the melanoma off the plastics.


So, as for a complete bike, everything initially looked complete internally..... but. I realized that something didn’t look right on one of the gear shift forks. The stopper cam and spring were missing.... of course. At least the little pin was still there.

Now it’s a waiting game, I’ve got both parts on order.

All total, I have just under $400 into this bike. I’ve salvaged some parts, rummaged though my parts boxes (my wife always tell me it’s junk, I should give it away!) and found many useful things, was able to get several key components like bearings, and stopper cam new, for reasonable price. Maybe it’s not a lost cause? But will it run?!
Poll

Lost cause or economical therapy

Choices
4
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rmxfreak
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106
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5/26/2017
Location
NZ
11/2/2019 10:27pm
I have a cool aftermarket silencer if you continue the build
1
GoMoto
Posts
31
Joined
9/6/2014
Location
Columbus, OH US
11/3/2019 4:24am
Been doing resto’s on old bikes for 20 years. Hell, I worked at a M/C junkyard for 10.

Nothing keeps me centered better than tooling around in my garage at 2am on a Friday night, listening to PulpMX and rescuing some poor, forlorn, abused and disused Honda pulled from the moldy bowels of some barn in southern Ohio. Hell yeah it’s cheap therapy. And thank God my wife tolerates it, good luck with the Zook.

My latest:


8
JohnPainter
Posts
18
Joined
10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/3/2019 7:25am
rmxfreak wrote:
I have a cool aftermarket silencer if you continue the build
Thank you but I’m sticking with the stock silencer since it has one in good shape, just needs to be repacked. Depending what I do with the bike if I keep it I might put a US Forestry Dept spark arrest or from a period PE on it for woods riding but I doubt that. Thanks anyway.

The Shop

brad74
Posts
5
Joined
10/30/2018
Location
MS US
11/4/2019 7:17pm
I have an 86 torn down in pieces if you need something. mine was also a complete bike but when I got it apart it needs a LH case.
JohnPainter
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18
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/4/2019 7:48pm
brad74 wrote:
I have an 86 torn down in pieces if you need something. mine was also a complete bike but when I got it apart it needs...
I have an 86 torn down in pieces if you need something. mine was also a complete bike but when I got it apart it needs a LH case.
Thank you but I’ve already got the last parts I needed on order. 👍🏻
11/4/2019 10:21pm
86- 87 RM125 would scorch a top end to the condition of the one in your pictures on the regular. That is detonation damage on the head. They would show good plug readings, jetted right, and the head would be ruined from detonation. About 6-8 races is a good life for one. Use the best gas you can buy.
2
JohnPainter
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/5/2019 8:30am
brad74 wrote:
I have an 86 torn down in pieces if you need something. mine was also a complete bike but when I got it apart it needs...
I have an 86 torn down in pieces if you need something. mine was also a complete bike but when I got it apart it needs a LH case.
I may have spoke too soon, I’d be interested in a stopper cam (25350-14501) part #18 in diagram and spring for it (09443-08036) part #19 if you have them, let me know pymt method if so.


sandman768
Posts
6071
Joined
3/21/2014
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/5/2019 10:06am
This is a photo from a 1988 Suzuki RM125 service manual. Many changes from 87 to 88 RM125, I doubt the ignition was one of them, hope this helps. If you need any other info from the manual let me know. After you have assembled the engine, perform a leak down test, as I found out, the cases behind the stator are very porous, causing severe air leaks, easy fix, just clean really good & epoxy the case where it is leaking. Also pay close attention to the poorly designed water pump impeller, it is plastic & bolts to the end of crankshaft, when it breaks, and they do, it stops coolant flow and well, you know, it over heats & melts down. There are some quirky differences between the 86,87 &88 RM 125”s, I think I listed them in my build thread from last year. I don’t think builds are stupid and silly, I really enjoy all the builds on here,
1
JohnPainter
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18
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/5/2019 11:01am
sandman768 wrote:
This is a photo from a 1988 Suzuki RM125 service manual. Many changes from 87 to 88 RM125, I doubt the ignition was one of them...
This is a photo from a 1988 Suzuki RM125 service manual. Many changes from 87 to 88 RM125, I doubt the ignition was one of them, hope this helps. If you need any other info from the manual let me know. After you have assembled the engine, perform a leak down test, as I found out, the cases behind the stator are very porous, causing severe air leaks, easy fix, just clean really good & epoxy the case where it is leaking. Also pay close attention to the poorly designed water pump impeller, it is plastic & bolts to the end of crankshaft, when it breaks, and they do, it stops coolant flow and well, you know, it over heats & melts down. There are some quirky differences between the 86,87 &88 RM 125”s, I think I listed them in my build thread from last year. I don’t think builds are stupid and silly, I really enjoy all the builds on here,
I appreciate that info on the porosity of the case behind the stator. I might just do a preemptive epoxy, though that part of the case looks excellent inside and out - the cover on the other hand... pitted, but usable, so I’m touching it up with JB Weld - it’s holding on to the areas that were pitted and am sanding it back. Its interesting to look at the changes between G, H, J variants on the bike and try to understand what Suzuki was trying to figure out in those areas.

I intend to paint the whole engine with Duplicolor Ford blue and attempt to prevent any other magnesium from pitting.

The water pump impeller, like piston and ring appear to be new, never run.

The engine, other than head, and stator cover is in really good shape, even the stator despite looking rough is working fine. Thank you. On related topic, did the bike come stock with DG pipe? Or is it after market? The bike I have has a very nice DG with no dents or dings and very light surface rust since it’s not painted. I really have to wonder if it was new.

sandman768
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6071
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3/21/2014
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/5/2019 12:05pm
I appreciate that info on the porosity of the case behind the stator. I might just do a preemptive epoxy, though that part of the case...
I appreciate that info on the porosity of the case behind the stator. I might just do a preemptive epoxy, though that part of the case looks excellent inside and out - the cover on the other hand... pitted, but usable, so I’m touching it up with JB Weld - it’s holding on to the areas that were pitted and am sanding it back. Its interesting to look at the changes between G, H, J variants on the bike and try to understand what Suzuki was trying to figure out in those areas.

I intend to paint the whole engine with Duplicolor Ford blue and attempt to prevent any other magnesium from pitting.

The water pump impeller, like piston and ring appear to be new, never run.

The engine, other than head, and stator cover is in really good shape, even the stator despite looking rough is working fine. Thank you. On related topic, did the bike come stock with DG pipe? Or is it after market? The bike I have has a very nice DG with no dents or dings and very light surface rust since it’s not painted. I really have to wonder if it was new.

The bikes did not come with DG pipes, that is aftermarket for sure, the bike I bought & redid last spring also came with a DG pipe & silencer....that’s good, 1 less thing you have to locate & buy!
mb60
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4743
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3/7/2010
Location
GRAPEVINE, TX US
11/5/2019 3:03pm
I bought a 86 rm 125 a couple of years ago for $ 300.00. Took it home and pulled the head off it and was surprised with new piston on standard bore. Only problem was they put the piston in backwards and it seized. LOL
1
JohnPainter
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18
Joined
10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/5/2019 3:20pm
mb60 wrote:
I bought a 86 rm 125 a couple of years ago for $ 300.00. Took it home and pulled the head off it and was surprised...
I bought a 86 rm 125 a couple of years ago for $ 300.00. Took it home and pulled the head off it and was surprised with new piston on standard bore. Only problem was they put the piston in backwards and it seized. LOL
Other than some oily fingers on it when I was removing it, the piston and ring sure looks new.



I think the PO attempted to rebuild but gave up when he couldn’t get the crank bearing off and then just buttoned it back up. I don’t know. It’s a fascinating little engine.


mark_swart
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2409
Joined
11/2/2011
Location
Chapin, SC US
11/11/2019 7:35pm
I think the main problem isn't the money, but the fact that when you are done, you'll have an '87 RM 125. If there is some emotional attachment to that year/model I say go for it, but if not, it's definitely not the most competitive bike out there for vintage racing in that era. I rebuilt the 88 RM 125 a few years back and was pretty disappointed at how it ran.
1
JohnPainter
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/18/2019 5:02pm
Ok, I’m stumped. Crap.

How do I install the stopper cam and spring?


sandman768
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Location
Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/18/2019 6:14pm
It hooks on the left case, it makes assembly a little tricky , see the post just under the crank pocket at 7pm...I remember this because I was confused at first also. You have to load the left case half first...

1
JohnPainter
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Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/18/2019 7:08pm
sandman768 wrote:
It hooks on the left case, it makes assembly a little tricky , see the post just under the crank pocket at 7pm...I remember this because...
It hooks on the left case, it makes assembly a little tricky , see the post just under the crank pocket at 7pm...I remember this because I was confused at first also. You have to load the left case half first...

I know the spring goes on the little post, but who was the evil contortionist who thought of this? I’m not even certain I have the orientation of the stopper cam correct, guess I’ll find out This is nuts, 🤯

Thanks for the assistance, I never figured this little bit would stump me.
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/19/2019 5:02am
I did it a bunch of times w/out the crank installed to make sure everything was installed correctly, bench test the trans gears etc. . I can take some photos of my service manual later in the week, if you need. , I am out of town at the moment.
1
JohnPainter
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
11/19/2019 6:02am
sandman768 wrote:
I did it a bunch of times w/out the crank installed to make sure everything was installed correctly, bench test the trans gears etc. . I...
I did it a bunch of times w/out the crank installed to make sure everything was installed correctly, bench test the trans gears etc. . I can take some photos of my service manual later in the week, if you need. , I am out of town at the moment.
Thank you Id appreciate that!
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/23/2019 6:38pm Edited Date/Time 11/23/2019 6:50pm
Not sure if these will help you,

1
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
11/23/2019 6:48pm
Here is the manual pages regarding the trans & shift assy installation...note: the left case is loaded first, then right case goes on, with the orientation of the shift drum spring, you have to load left case first.

1
JohnPainter
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Lewiston, ME US
11/24/2019 6:16am Edited Date/Time 11/24/2019 6:24am
Thank you, I appreciate the help.

Sure would be easier to do left side first... but I’m an idiot I got everything together and functioning correctly doing it totally backwards. Well until I realized the jug is out of round. 😩

So it’s off to the shop to get bored.

So the end is in sight,


JohnPainter
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18
Joined
10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
2/15/2020 7:27am
Well I’ve had to let the RM sit for awhile, just to clear my head and work with other projects. So it runs, sort of. I took a chance and didn’t replace the right crank case oil seal - anything to save a buck, stupid, right?!

It runs but smokes.... a lot. Also throws crank oil out the exhaust, so, yeah that’s epic. So obviously I have to fix my mistake.

My question is, while I have it apart, to replace right side seal for good measure, should I replace the left side again too?

https://youtu.be/L9Aazi4JhC8
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
2/15/2020 10:33am
The seals are cheap, replace them, I would replace the water pump seal also, inspect water pump impeller, they are driven off the end of the crank, not gear driven. Plastic impeller is weak, they are still available from Suzuki for cheap. My 87 had massive air leaks on the stator side from case porosity. There are 3 indents in the case behind the stator, I performed a leak down test & was amazed to see air/gas/oil leaking right through the case! Only on a Suzuki! Apparently this was common on Suzuki cases, I epoxied the 3 spots on the case & it solved the air leak.
1
JohnPainter
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18
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10/27/2019
Location
Lewiston, ME US
2/16/2020 6:50am
sandman768 wrote:
The seals are cheap, replace them, I would replace the water pump seal also, inspect water pump impeller, they are driven off the end of the...
The seals are cheap, replace them, I would replace the water pump seal also, inspect water pump impeller, they are driven off the end of the crank, not gear driven. Plastic impeller is weak, they are still available from Suzuki for cheap. My 87 had massive air leaks on the stator side from case porosity. There are 3 indents in the case behind the stator, I performed a leak down test & was amazed to see air/gas/oil leaking right through the case! Only on a Suzuki! Apparently this was common on Suzuki cases, I epoxied the 3 spots on the case & it solved the air leak.
The sound voice of reason.

That’s exactly what I’m doing now, while I doubt I’ll ever love these late 80’s RM 125’s they are fun to wrench on and pretty inexpensive on top of it all - though I hate spending money on a bike I’m just going to to play around on, being able to do that for less than the cost of a new crank for an ‘07 RM125 is nothing to complain about.

Thank you.

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