Posts
36
Joined
12/31/2016
Location
Corinth, MS
US
clayburns28
10/18/2019 7:13am
10/18/2019 7:13am
Edited Date/Time
10/20/2019 4:19pm
Been looking for a bike to race in the vintage races finally found one. Few questions
What is the best air filter setup for racing it doesn’t have one?
What all do I need to do to get it race ready upgrade wise?
Is race tech the best place to send the suspension?
Thx for any input
What is the best air filter setup for racing it doesn’t have one?
What all do I need to do to get it race ready upgrade wise?
Is race tech the best place to send the suspension?
Thx for any input
Air filter? Twin Air, Uni and DT1 all make stock replacements I do believe. Just make sure your original cage is in good condition. Filters and new air boots can be had through VMX Racing, Vintco, DC Plastics, Hotfoot moto and others.
Race ready?Look everything over for cracks in the rims, frame and swingarm.
The right foot peg mount bolts on, inspect it well. Larger pegs are available through VMX Racing or with a little effort and skill, late model YZ Titanium pegs can be made to fit. Cheap on Ebay.
The stock chain guide is pretty much junk. Weld on a bracket to the swingarm to fit a modern chain guide. I had a 92 KX125/250 guide on mine before switching to an aluminum swingarm.
Gear shift lever is probably starting to get loose on the shaft. File the gap so it will tighten up properly if needed. If the threads are buggered, file a flat spot on the backside so you can use a nut. Good shift levers are hard to find and expensive.
Jeff Clark at Badbrush Designs always has good cables in stock. Some brands of aftermarket ones have way too much stretch.
Use OEM Honda clutch plates and springs, never use Barnett Kevlars. They will wear out the hub and pressure plate in a hurry.
Inspect the fuel filter in the tank on the petcock to make sure it isn't plugged up or collapsed. It will restrict fuel flow.
Second and third gears are the trouble spot in the trannies. Make sure yours shifts good and baby it as long as you can. There are fixe$ for that...
A new firm seat foam is a must. Old clapped out mush will have you hating life. Stock seat pans are marginal at best, check the condition of yours. There are plastic repros available through DC and others.
Call or text Andy Cline at ACE Racing in Houston for a pipe first. Good guy, builds a nice pipe and very reasonable on cost. I think he has fixtures for the early CR. (281) 734-0228
Suspension? Yes, let Race Tech do the forks with new springs and Emulators. Wish I would have done that way back when instead of recently!
Rear shocks, I have always gone one inch longer than stock and slid the forks up in the clamps a small amount to help it turn better. Check your club rules to make sure you stay in the correct travel limit for vintage, usually 4 inches rear travel. Race Tech shocks sure are sweet but they can get quite pricey.
Those are some of the basics to get you started. If you plan to really start modding it up, the sky is the limit. I can help you spend plenty of money.
Vintco makes a new kickstart gear if yours appears worn. First thing to check is the ratcheting pawl and spring to make sure it is not damaged and working as designed. Common problem.
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