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Edited Date/Time
12/13/2019 9:27pm
I Put a backing plate with double leading shoes from an 1981 on my 1979 and the braking power is much improved even with the old shoes that came with the Backing plate,I going to buy some new shoes for it and was looking for suggestions on OEM vs after market shoes
What would the Vital vintage gurus suggest?
Has anyone had Race Tech do the Drum Brake Arcing for vintage bikes and what did you think?
It sounds good.
https://www.racetech.com/page/title/Brake%20Arcing
Thanks for any help in advance.
What would the Vital vintage gurus suggest?
Has anyone had Race Tech do the Drum Brake Arcing for vintage bikes and what did you think?
It sounds good.
https://www.racetech.com/page/title/Brake%20Arcing
Thanks for any help in advance.
You need to make sure your wheel is true because you can pull it out of round if you have to adjust your spokes after the arcing.
That's my bike they are arcing the drums in their pics BTW and in the shock development story.
https://racetech.com/html_files/yz465_project.html
Take note: use ONLY Yamaha OEM brake cables. Unlike the cheap aftermarket cables, the wire is larger in diameter and resists stretch and the "mushyness" feel.
It's very important to adjust levers so that the the shoe actuated by the short lever, touches the drum slightly before the shoe from the long lever.
Find a quiet location, spin the wheel and listen closely at the shoes contact and adjust accordingly.
You can also use a flat file and remove the high spots on the shoes until even contact from the drum-to-shoe is achieved. It works well for drums that are slightly irregular.
In all, it's a bit time consuming with repeatedly removing and installing the wheel but the results are great.
The Shop
The Yamaha DLS is very good. I have good luck using some adhesive back 150 grit 3" roll sandpaper applied and trimmed to fit inside the drum, then spin the wheel adjusting the brakes slowly till the shoes are sanded round, AKA arched.
Takes some time to do and usually have to remove wheel several times But easiest DIY way if you don't have access to a lathe.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Stikit-Blue…
Now to get to work.
I would say unless you are doing expert/pro level vintage racing the arching of the brake pads and roughing up the braking surface is all you need.
Never ever go cheap on cables. That goes for the CLUTCH cable too.
As with brake cables and larger wire diameter, the clutch action with OEM will feel much more positive than aftermarket pieces.
Spend the extra cash on OEM's and never be disappointed.
Just a side note:
Some aftermarket levers, especially the "adjust on the fly" types. They are produced with the smaller hole for the "dowell" and the narrow "slot" that the cable slides through on the levers. Be prepared to modify that type of lever when using the high quality OEM cables.
I was shocked how good it worked. I actually almost crashed in the driveway testing it because I locked up the front wheel.
Here's one I found on ebay. There are other sellers with prices ranging all over.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-NOS-VINTAGE-FT-BRAKE-CABLE-IT-YZ250-425…
I cant imagine them being drastically different.
I am going order one and check it out
Thanks again for all the info,you have been very helpful.
The only thing that you'll notice is that the cable used for the ......say, 1980,'81,'82.....will be SLIGHTLY longer given the increase in suspension travel over model years. Nothing to worry about. Just make sure the cable is secured where it needs to be. You don't want it flopping around close to the front wheel.
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