Any bearing experts on here?

Is it considered a heavy duty bearing because it has more ball bearings in it? Hence the two piece inner race?

I have found full pack single piece inner race bearings for my 74 CR250 race bike in the past but they too are in the $50.00-70.00 apiece range.

McGuire bearing in Seattle area's or a similar type of bearing specialist would know and get you bearings for cheaper prices. Price can depend on where it's made Japan and German made usually the most expensive.

Omni packing in Seattle has been sweet if you need orings locally. Used them a few times recently restoring this cool thai market Yamaha 150cc two stroke sport bike.

Yamaha said this oring that went around the ypvs drum was nla same with this one for the oil pump.
The old one's are on the right the one's i got from omni on the left got 350 miles on the bike no problem with the replacements and they was a quarter of Yamaha's price.

I went to my local Kaman bearing house today for crank & transmission bearings. They could not get the crank bearings as they have a unique inner race size, or should I say they could order them for 70.00 each, ok no big deal I get them from Honda for 30.00 each, so I get the remaining 3 bearings I need. I get home & look up the prices of the bearings from Honda, I saved about 5.00$ on one bearing & paid more for the other 2, then add in the tax I paid and subsequent traffic jam on the way home and I figure I lost $ and time. I"m not a bearing expert.....

Not a fan of plastic caged bearings. Especially in a high speed application.

Cheap bearings are just that.. its not the place to saving money IMO

The goal is to get Oem equivalent or better for less $... Sometimes it works out good & sometimes it doesn't. Ntn, Skf, Koyo, are not cheap bearings, that is what my bearing house sells.

Two piece bearings deep groove bearings have higher load capacity as they can get more contact area on the balls which increased load. 35KN over 29KN is a decent jump in performance (over 10%) and your at the end of the countershaft which has the highest shock load from the rear wheel. Worth the extra coin to me if you can get it. I'm also not a fan of plastic cages unless you talking low speed and low load.

Pick the stronger of the two. From your post I can't tell which is which so I just assumed.