96 CR250, thoughts?

nice find. Those 05' forks are worlds better than the stock 96's.

The carb is a little leaky, I'm gonna look into getting new seals but if i need to order a new one what should I get?

johnwonton wrote:

The carb is a little leaky, I'm gonna look into getting new seals but if i need to order a new one what should I get?

Airstriker off 2000 cr 250 I believe

Mine has had similar upgrades like the CRF forks and APPLIED triples. Also larger disc's and calipers.

Looks like you have an 18” rear wheel as well, unless it’s just the camera angle. Should’ve been a 19 if I’m not mistaken.

benchracermx wrote:

Airstriker off 2000 cr 250 I believe

Thank You! Just curious, what makes that particular carb "the one" so to speak?

What does it take to do the fork swap?

wfoyz250 wrote:

Mine has had similar upgrades like the CRF forks and APPLIED triples. Also larger disc's and calipers.

CHERRY! The new front end didn't come with bigger disks and calipers than the original?

omalley wrote:

Looks like you have an 18” rear wheel as well, unless it’s just the camera angle. Should’ve been a 19 if I’m not mistaken.

I'll have to double check that today.

jbrass715 wrote:

What does it take to do the fork swap?

I bought it already swapped, funny enough the guy use to work at applied! haha I'm sure if you call them up they would be more than happy to tell you.

Wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do with the bike when purchased. I've decided to keep the beat up plastics and re grease/replace all the bearings that I know how, change all the fluids and rip it in the desert. Top end has 40hrs on it so it will be coming apart in another 40. Any other preventative maintenance I'm forgetting? Also does anyone know where i can get a rear break lever from, mine is shot. Thanks for all the replies/input guys!

Man you are stealing my ideas haha. I have a 96 125 I'm doing the same idea with but with updated suspension and fresh engine

johnwonton wrote:

Wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do with the bike when purchased. I've decided to keep the beat up plastics and re grease/replace all the bearings that I know how, change all the fluids and rip it in the desert. Top end has 40hrs on it so it will be coming apart in another 40. Any other preventative maintenance I'm forgetting? Also does anyone know where i can get a rear break lever from, mine is shot. Thanks for all the replies/input guys!

John, Just saw a CR250 carb pop up on local CL listing. Not mine, btw.

YZed250 wrote:

John, Just saw a CR250 carb pop up on local CL listing. Not mine, btw.

I see the Mikuni but I'm on the hunt for a PWK Airstriker. Thanks for the heads up though man!

johnwonton wrote:

Wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do with the bike when purchased. I've decided to keep the beat up plastics and re grease/replace all the bearings that I know how, change all the fluids and rip it in the desert. Top end has 40hrs on it so it will be coming apart in another 40. Any other preventative maintenance I'm forgetting? Also does anyone know where i can get a rear break lever from, mine is shot. Thanks for all the replies/input guys!

YZed250 wrote:

John, Just saw a CR250 carb pop up on local CL listing. Not mine, btw.

johnwonton wrote:

I see the Mikuni but I'm on the hunt for a PWK Airstriker. Thanks for the heads up though man!

John, I have a used but clean 38mm (standard-not short) PWK airstriker. PM me if you’re interested, I can give you the rundown on it.

omalley wrote:

John, I have a used but clean 38mm (standard-not short) PWK airstriker. PM me if you’re interested, I can give you the rundown on it.

PM sent

johnwonton wrote:

Wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do with the bike when purchased. I've decided to keep the beat up plastics and re grease/replace all the bearings that I know how, change all the fluids and rip it in the desert. Top end has 40hrs on it so it will be coming apart in another 40. Any other preventative maintenance I'm forgetting? Also does anyone know where i can get a rear break lever from, mine is shot. Thanks for all the replies/input guys!

I would trust 0.0000% of what the seller told you about the top end or anything about the bike. That would be the first thing I would do.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16100-KZ3-J21?ref=acc3d564dad4cec09c3221dc8a85811ba8cfef42

Here's the PWK airstriker straight from Honda.

Does anyone happen to have a 96 CR250 service manual? Its a 4 week wait Also, anyone know the trans drain plug torque spec? I just found out a couple minutes ago that the "peep hole" (sorry my terminology is garbage) is stripped.

Rocky739 wrote:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16100-KZ3-J21?ref=acc3d564dad4cec09c3221dc8a85811ba8cfef42

Here's the PWK airstriker straight from Honda.

Thanks man, I might be needing this!

Rockinar wrote:

I would trust 0.0000% of what the seller told you about the top end or anything about the bike. That would be the first thing I would do.

I agree completely! I got to feel the guy out a while before I bought it but that doesn't mean bad things aren't around the corner. I'm leaving on vacation in a couple days and will be in the desert for a week, I'm going to do the stupid thing and keep my fingers crossed till after. I did change the oil and radiator fluid, both seemed to be brand new.

johnwonton wrote:

Does anyone happen to have a 96 CR250 service manual? Its a 4 week wait Also, anyone know the trans drain plug torque spec? I just found out a couple minutes ago that the "peep hole" (sorry my terminology is garbage) is stripped.

Scour EBay for a shop service manual, I picked one up and they are priceless... I'm old school and like having the hard copy in front of me. I suppose the Clymer manuals are better than nothing...
Engine oil drain plug 12x1.5mm bolt would be 18-25 ft lbs
YouTube helicoil thread repair and order a 6x1.0 kit for the oil check bolt

Rocky739 wrote:

Scour EBay for a shop service manual, I picked one up and they are priceless... I'm old school and like having the hard copy in front of me. I suppose the Clymer manuals are better than nothing...
Engine oil drain plug 12x1.5mm bolt would be 18-25 ft lbs
YouTube helicoil thread repair and order a 6x1.0 kit for the oil check bolt

Does the manual happen to be green? it seems they lump the years 1992-1996 together.

johnwonton wrote:

Does the manual happen to be green? it seems they lump the years 1992-1996 together.

Honestly not sure. My 86 one is blue and year specific. If it a shop service manual and not the owners manual it will have much more detailed information on engine and suspension service.

Have a stock manual at home, as well as an aftermarket. Any specific info you need? I can dig it out for you.

scooter5002 wrote:

Have a stock manual at home, as well as an aftermarket. Any specific info you need? I can dig it out for you.

Ring gap specs and I read something about needing to drill forged pistons but not cast ones?

scooter5002 wrote:

Have a stock manual at home, as well as an aftermarket. Any specific info you need? I can dig it out for you.

also curious as to whats the most reliable top end kit. Thanks Scooter

scooter5002 wrote:

Have a stock manual at home, as well as an aftermarket. Any specific info you need? I can dig it out for you.

johnwonton wrote:

Ring gap specs and I read something about needing to drill forged pistons but not cast ones?

The drilling you mention is generally in the area of the exhaust bridge for cooling/lubrication. I think Wiseco has instructions on their website. On my 02 that I just did, it was two holes in line with the bridge. You put the piston on with the cylinder, raised the piston in the stroke until the bottom ring was at the top of the port, and scribed each side of the bridge with a pencil. Then you pull it apart and drill the piston. If memory serves the holes were .060-.090 diameter, and the top one was .300 down from the bottom ring. The second was .375 down from that. I may have those two reversed in my mind though.

It sounds scarier than it is. Just chamfer the holes and blow out the piston to make sure no aluminum bits are in there.

Pro X engine parts are the way to go. They are the OEM supplier parts that are re badged under the Pro X name.