'76 CR125 Elsinore race build help... now with links

Related:
Create New Tag

2/21/2020 5:14 PM

Hung up the racing boots a few years back and told the wife "this time I am done. No more racing"

Some how I convinced her racing vintage dirt cycles isn't really racing as I won't be doing big triples and 100ft step ups. She said OK, so i picked up a nice 100% OEM '76 CR125 and it's time to go to work! Can you guys help me with a few things? I looked around and decided to start with these things, unless of course you guys can give me better ideas. Thanks in advance!

Looking for:
PFR Thor swingarm or equivalent (Spoke to Maicos Only, they probably won't be making anymore and VMX and AMS are all sold out)

Shocks - Worx Shocks? (Used to be Works Performance) Ohlins? Need advice here...

Need forks modded- Race Tech gold valve & springs? Who should I use for vintage Elsinore fork mods?

Head? More for the bling factor - would love to find one of the usuals - FMF, DG or Webco and no, I am not going to take out a second on the home to buy one...

Anything else?

Here' s the before. After coming soon...






|


2/21/2020 6:46 PM

Joe Newman on here would be the go to guy for answers on what to do to that CR125.

|

2/21/2020 7:20 PM

PK97 wrote:

Joe Newman on here would be the go to guy for answers on what to do to that CR125.

Joe still on vacation.

|

2/21/2020 8:29 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/21/2020 8:30 PM

Thanks for the tip. I 'll message him. Every time I do a net search for a trick part or info on an Elsinore I would end up finding Vital threads. I usually found the best info and was always impressed on how the people here helped get racers going with their bikes.

Guess I shouldn't have been surprised. Even with all the shenanigans that go on over on the moto-related board, Vital has one hell of a brain trust of everything motocross going on here!

|


2/22/2020 12:22 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/22/2020 12:30 PM

Thanks paradigm. Good info. The bike is on the second bore and it is fresh. Other than that it has only been lightly ridden and bone stock.

I may have found a Thor swing arm and I have a line on an FMF pipe, a webco Head or a FMF porcupine. I know the FMF head is more show than go, but damn that porcupine head looks bad ass. Always wanted one when I raced my '74 Yamaha mx at Saddleback and kept getting smoked by the FMF Honda Elsinore crowd.

I will take your advise on the race gas. I moved from So Ca to Arizona and can get VP locally. I run it in my Husky 2s now.

If I don't get the bike ported, would the Mikuni carb help any? Do I need to change the stock throttle cable to work with a Mikuni?

In all truthfulness, I intend to race it for fun and won't be hammering it every weekend or worrying about going after a Championship. I've done that and I am over that kind of racing. I am going after a build that will make the bike fairly fast, reliable and suspension that works and of course looks trick!

Like a lot of old mx'rs, at 16yrs old I never had the money back then to race the good stuff . Now that I am older I have the ability to afford the good stuff and I have this strange desire to go back and do it again. I've been fortunate enough to stay in shape racing Mountainbikes and have raced (all be it some years only a few times in a year) for every year from when I started at 16 yrs old until last year at 59yrs old. Hopefully my fitness and 40+ years of racing will make up for a race motor that is expensive and always has the chance of blowing up

This is me on my Husky 300 racing at Pala last year




|


2/22/2020 3:43 PM

Only ONE guy to take advice from on that bike -- Joe Newmann. However I will tell you that Ohlins or RaceTechs are far superior to any Works shocks. Works are cheap,and easy to find but there is a reason for that. I actually have several sets of Works on some of my bikes ,but on the 6 serious Vintage racers are exclusively Ohlins Piggybacks. All that being said, a well set-up set of Works will be much better than the stockers . Good luck, have fun, and email Joe.

One last thing, If you're looking for the hard to find go fast goodies for any vintage racer , put a " Wanted" ad on Marks Vintage swap meet site. I have 100% ALWAYS found what I was looking for on all of my builds, no matter how obsolete or impossible to find the part has been,

|

2/22/2020 4:17 PM

Last I checked none of those guys post here and Dave Miller is in pretty bad shape. Mossbarger is now run by a knowledgable and friendly young lady,however I would wager she hasn't ported a vintage 2-stroke lately.

Newmann has built many and has raced many Cr125's IN RECENT HISTORY and knows the good/useful mods and what to avoid in todays vintage racing world, AND he's more likely to actually be available to offer said advice. If you don't like Joe, thats fine, but don't question his early Elsinore knowledge,

I'm NOT a Honda guy ,but if I were to build an Elsie to race ,I'd have Newmann on speed dial.

And Barnett/Paradigm-- my advice was directed toward Jake48., not you. Not every thread has to be about you. You argue and name-call in almost every thread you enter. Don't you have somewhere else to be ? Lets say a Mustang forum or a Quad racer forum? Oh wait....you've been banned from those ones ,lmao--- Oh and one more thing, the term that you used ---"retard" , seriously ???

|

2/22/2020 4:20 PM

Nice save--- I see you edited your original word for "idiot" . LOL

|

2/22/2020 5:05 PM

Ignoring all the side banter -- that 76 looks like a damn clean starting point. good find Jake.

|

2/22/2020 6:44 PM

I had a 76 back in the day. And it was cool as it was red. After a few motos, I realized my trophy cabinet would not need an immediate expansion. I really liked the bike and enjoyed it. I modded the motor it was faster, but pipier as well. I broke the stock swing arm and it got a Cross Up. Added some Girlings and it was great. Final piece was a local pipe builder named Banke. The motor really zinged with that! All through 76, I feared no YZ or RM. Didn't really beat many of them, but I weren't scared!!!! Okay, I was a squid!
All was good until I rode a 77 RM......Ah, s the old Elsie was not the choice any more. Headed to the 250 class!

Loved the bike, have one in the barn to do, just got to find the time and energy.

I ran a ported 74 Cylinder, 32 carb, Banke pipe, Webco Head. Cross up swingarm. Girlings shockes, Webco fork springs, Metzler up front, Yokohama out back. Kept the 428H chain and Twin air. Was a great bike, better than I as a rider

|

2/22/2020 10:10 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/22/2020 10:13 PM

Thanks everyone. I know motocrossers all have strong opinions and so do I. At almost 60 years old now I pretty much take everything with a grain of salt and know that the truth always bubbles to the top.

Clearly I need to get a hold of Joe Newman and get his input.

I appreciate your advice paradigm, I was actually considering buying the Mikuni from the guy on ebay and you saved me some cash for sure. Thanks...

As far as building this bike goes, at my age, I find it a little easier to just be straight up honest. I had a good run... I survived over 49 years of racing and riding on tracks in So Cal. I was lucky enough to race or ride at Saddleback, Carlsbad, OCIR, Indian Dunes, Ascott, Cycle Haven, Castaic, DeAnza, Corona Raceway Under the lights, Starwest, Madera, Freemont Raceway, E Street in Marysville, Comp Park, Competitive Edge, Perris raceway, 395, Elsinore, Pala, Milestone, Cahuilla and Rynoland. I even managed to race in New York (Long Island MX) and France (retro enduro in the South)

For me, I was blessed enough to live a dream...

I never got faster than a solid So Ca Intermediate and I never had aspirations of being a Pro (talent got in the way of that). Now, I just want to build the bike I never had. I don't want to be an AHRMA Champion, hell, I don't even understand all the classes.

I do want to build a bad ass Elsinore that will get me around a local track at a Vintage race with out blowing up or throwing me over the bars. My experience has given me the knowledge to know the difference between a terrible, OK, good and holy shit that is good suspension and motor.

Not going for a pro bike build, more between a good and a holy shit that is a good bike build. Admittedly, I am not so worried about getting a hole shot every race as I am about building a trick looking bike that does what it is supposed to do and I have fun racing it.

I tell you guys all this because I want this thread to be fun and informative. Not an ego driven argument on how to build the fastest bike to win every race.

I came to Vital because egos aside, I believe the wealth of information here on all things moto can not be matched.

I am hoping this post will not only help me build an awesome vintage race bike, but provide other people who stubble on to this thread after doing a net search good information on how to build an '76 Elsinore to race.

Thanks again to everyone offering advice. I can't wait to get this bike done and spin a few laps on the track.

Damn I am lucky.

|


2/23/2020 3:42 AM

Every well said jakefortyeight! A lot of us are that way as well, myself included. Build the trick bike we never had or could afford and ride it and race some to have a super fun time, after all isn’t that why we all did this was for the fun and excitementOf it.. No one is getting a factory ride and do we really need more trophies to clutter the house.

|

2/23/2020 6:50 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/23/2020 7:08 AM

PK97 wrote:

Every well said jakefortyeight! A lot of us are that way as well, myself included. Build the trick bike we never had or could afford and ride it and race some to have a super fun time, after all isn’t that why we all did this was for the fun and excitementOf it.. No one is getting a factory ride and do we really need more trophies to clutter the house.

Exactly. I got rid of all of my trophies except one... I kept the first trophy I earned with a 1-1. 1980 Saddleback Saturday, 250 novice class, 10 riders in my class combined with expert minis. What I remember most from that race was the kid who won the mini expert was harder than hell to pass. I was on a Maico 250. He was on a YZ 80.

After the race he came up to me and said he wanted to pass me but the rocks my Maico was throwing hurt too much. Not going to lie, he was there the whole race and I might have clutched it a few more times than normal coming out of the turns. lol

I didn't care that it was minis I beat. I finally went 1-1. I had arrived!!!


Now about that bike...

I found a Thor swing arm for a '76 with the correct moved up mounts.

I found three heads all in good shape - FMF porcupine, Webco and a DG. I heard the Webco performed best, DG cooled the best and the porcupine was really not that great of a head as it didn't cool as well as the others. I guess because I think the porcupine looks cool, I am leaning towards that - unless the vintage guys here tell me that choosing the porcupine over the other two is a really bad idea.

Exhaust - Found an FMF pipe in good condition, however, it is for a '73-'75. It would require me changing the exhaust flange from the wider opening of the '76 to the smaller opening '73-'75 exhaust flange. Is this correct? Will there be a drop in HP, top end, less lower end, more lower end? If the '73 FMF pipe and smaller exhaust flange is going to rob me of HP not just move the power band, I would probably just throw a PFR exhaust on it and call it a day?

I will probably leave the barrel alone, but if going to a Mikuni from the Kiehn makes the bike faster, easier to ride or both? I would definitely do that. Do I need to buy a throttle cable that works with a Mikuni or will using the stock throttle cable work?

Suspension - I will have Race Tech go through the forks. I like what I read about their twin shocks, but think they are a little pricey and might be better than I need. How about Worx Performance. Are they pricey? Do they work well? I am partial to them as I ran Works Performance on my Maico and liked them. Don't know about the CR125 or what works. Advice here would be much appreciated.

The stock rims are perfect, the spokes are not (completely oxidized and rusty). I would prefer to just re-lace the stock wheels as I really don't plan on racing the bike more than a few times a year. Is this a mistake? What kind of spokes? Who would you use? Powder coat the hubs while they are apart? Is there a one stop place that can do powder coating and re lacing with good spokes?

Should I stay with the stock 428 chain or swap over to a 520?

Thanks again.

|


2/23/2020 7:52 AM

Go with Buchanan spokes they are the best, really inspect the rims for cracks because those rims weren’t that strong. Full Circle Racing offers very good rims for vintage bikes at a reasonable price. I am admittedly not an expect on the those year 125’s, but I would go with the porcupine head, very trick looking for sure. Find a local powder coat guy for you hubs and parts. VMX has the best plastics. I had a set of those works shocks I got on a 1973 CR250 I got and sold them to a guy with a ‘75 CR125 because I was building a stock bike. You will more then likely find those to suit your needs and riding you will be doing. Yes on the Race Tech forks springs. Don’t know what will be best for the pipe.

There are a lot of good knowledgeable people on here that can steer you in the right direction.

PK

|

2/23/2020 10:23 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/23/2020 10:24 AM

I really. really, really appreciate you taking the time to write that all out. I have to admit, finding the parts, puting it all together and making your bike an expression of your own personal style is one of the things I enjoy most

I have had Dubya build wheels for me before, I am going to check in with them and see what they can do.

Thanks again

|


2/23/2020 11:48 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/23/2020 11:59 AM

Them things were almost over ported from the factory. If they were not on the pipe, a lot of them just sat there and blubbered. Recall the old Skunk Works company had a kit to mount a 38mm carb on them. Lot of carb for that bike.

A spare "hot' cylinder, pipe, carb, and head ,along with a baseline setup to go back to would be good.

edit: The swingarm was a bit suspect on them if I recall. Look at how it seems to be a bunch of "stacked" metal plates at the axle slot area. Not the best design.

|

2/23/2020 3:12 PM

|

2/23/2020 5:15 PM

A lot of good info in here--- even from Barnett,lol.w00t A few things to add. The suspension mods you choose should be determined by the class you want to run that bike in AND the organization you are going to compete in. In the East here we run in some AMA races where that bike would be an "Evolution" bike and you're allowed 9" front and rear travel. In an AHRMA event that bike would be in the "Historic" class ,, however the AMA would also most likely allow you to run that bike in the "Vintage" class as long as you were running 7" travel in the front and 4" rear since the rules state 74 and prior and "like". They have been pretty lax on that "like" terminology, so if you keep the suspension travel in line, you should be golden with them. I don't what you guys run out west, but its just something you should consider. So I agree with Race-Tech as the go to fork guys whether your using a 7" or 9" travel set-up. Shock wise , if you are sticking with the 4" travel ,Vintage Works shocks will be fine, but if you are moving them up or laying them down going for the 9" travel, I'd opt for a better shock (Ohlins or Race-tech) But either way, just make sure they are sprung correctly for you intended use.

As far as heads go, I go for the "trickness" factor ,too, and nothing is tricker than an FMF Porcupine. I have them all at home on different bikes (Webco, DG , Porky, PDI ) The DG heads weigh twice as much as a comparable FMF head ,and I'm all about light weight, so another reason that the racers have the Porkys. As Barnett stated ,The Combustion chamber shape and squish setting is far more important than the brand of the head, so go for the smile factor.

I run 428 chains on all the 125's for less rotating weight and less drag. The current 428 chains are far superior to the ones 40 years ago, so I don't feel the "upgrade" to 520 is necessary as it was back in the 70's

There is probably more trick bits out there and available for the early CR125's than any other bike, so get out there,find them, buy them, build it ,ride it,race it and smile the entire time whether you're block passing a buddy on it in the last turn ,or just staring at it sitting on the stand in your garage. Like you, I'm 60 and I feel fortunate I'm able to enjoy every aspect of the Vintage Moto scene.

|

2/23/2020 7:30 PM

Awesome! Some great links. Some I discovered on my searches, some new. Perfect time for me to skeins time reading on the net. Snowed a little and it cold outside.

And OldPro, thanks for all the good info. I already know that the way most Vintage organizations split up the classes the '76 Elsinore is at an disadvantage compared to some of the bikes at the end later years for the class. I have decided to keep it in the shorter / stock travel range and just try and make sure the suspension works well.

I figured with newer technology for chains and the newer hard anodized alloy sprockets staying with a 428 vs 520 might be a better as it is lighter.

Thanks again

|


2/23/2020 8:06 PM

Great advice! I will use the old chain until I have it dialed in in the gearing.

|


2/24/2020 9:11 PM

A ton of good info in here. Mr. Joe and I will be building a 74 CR125 motor this upcoming weekend with one of the new Vintco cranks ($329...a bargain). I also have several year models of these CR's and prefer the combo of the 76 model pipe with the 78 cylinder for "historic" class racing. Honestly, I would not do much to the motor other than sort it out and make sure the gear box is good to go. For the 76 cylinder, not modified, go with a 32mm Mikuni and if modified the 34mm is the way to go. From personal experience on the swingarms I like the DG aluminum arm if you can find one. Karl Landrus builds some amazing swingarms but you should PM Joe before you go that route. I'll dig for pics of one. Somewhere floating on the net is an article on an Al Baker mod for the forks. There's a million things you can do with that bike but honestly I would focus on a sound motor right now and suspension work. The rear wheel is most likely cracked at the weld and if not it will be. Stay tuned...

|

2/25/2020 8:49 AM
Edited Date/Time: 2/25/2020 9:17 AM

Lonestar_399 wrote:

A ton of good info in here. Mr. Joe and I will be building a 74 CR125 motor this upcoming weekend with one of the new Vintco cranks ($329...a bargain). I also have several year models of these CR's and prefer the combo of the 76 model pipe with the 78 cylinder for "historic" class racing. Honestly, I would not do much to the motor other than sort it out and make sure the gear box is good to go. For the 76 cylinder, not modified, go with a 32mm Mikuni and if modified the 34mm is the way to go. From personal experience on the swingarms I like the DG aluminum arm if you can find one. Karl Landrus builds some amazing swingarms but you should PM Joe before you go that route. I'll dig for pics of one. Somewhere floating on the net is an article on an Al Baker mod for the forks. There's a million things you can do with that bike but honestly I would focus on a sound motor right now and suspension work. The rear wheel is most likely cracked at the weld and if not it will be. Stay tuned...

100% Agreed I plan on running a stock barrel with cleaned up porting, a 32 Mikuni, a head and a pipe. Admittedly, the head and pipe are more for show than go, but that is part of what it is about for me - making the bike my own. Speaking of which...

I found a Thor swing arm. It is on it's way from the UK. Go figure. The guy had a FMF porcupine head in great shape and offered it to me for a reasonable price, but I read that Dave Miller was making porcupine heads and pipes again for the CR125 so I called him to see if I could get a brand new one...

First, let me say this. In So Ca where I grew up racing, it was all about DG & FMF, but when you talked to the guys at the races back then, there were always three guys who came up as the three who were leading the way - Dave Miller of Miller Mano and Rudy and Dean Dickinson of R&D Racing. They had innovative ideas and their bikes were super fast and they worked! Hearing that one of the tuners from the '70's I looked up to was still at it, what better person could I call I thought. Don't get me wrong, so far this has been everything I have been hoping for. Racers and vintages guys helping me with this bike and sharing their knowledge and passion, but I have to take a minute and tell you what an awesome guy Dave Miller is.

You all probably know Daves' health took a turn for the worst (Go here for info and to help him) and I wasn't sure I could get through, but the idea he was making FMF Porcupine heads and pipes got me interested enough to call. I called and he answered...

I told Dave what I was doing and was interested in buying a porcine head. He confirmed that yes, he was making porcupine cr125 heads and told me the story of how he got Donny's permission. Unfortunately, his heads are for the '73-'75 CR125 not the '76-'78. I told him about the clean Porcupine head in the UK and he graciously took the time to explain the subtle differences between the two. Late that day when he returned to his shop he even texted me pictures to make sure I got it right. We BS'd on the phone about racing and building bikes and swapped a few stories. He passed on a few tips (A lot of which have been discussed here) and when I admitted I was not only building a bike that was race worthy, I was chasing parts to make it look good, he left me with this. His words...

"To me, vintage racers and us guys who like to build the bikes are like modern hot rodders. Making modifications to a bike for better suspension and a faster motor are one thing, but we all like to have a bike that looks good. The feeling you get when you are sitting in the pits and someone walking by, stops, looks at your bike and says , "now that is cool" makes all that hard work worth it." He concluded by telling me he loves seeing what people come up with and how much he enjoys seeing the bikes people build as an expression of themselves. I told him I looked forward to coming by his shop to pick up a pipe and check his shop out and he humbly said, "it isn't much of a shop, mostly just a garage with a few interesting projects tucked in the corners". If you have ever seen some of Dave's project bikes, you know what a humble statement that is. The guy is a true perfectionist and a legend.

Here's the info on the heads;

The '73-'75 head is narrower in width than a '76-'78 head by about 1/4 inch on both sides. From '73 to '78 they are all interchangeable, but you will either end up with a head that overhangs ('76-'78 head on a '73-'75) or a head that is too narrow ('73-75 head on a '76-'78). As far as FMF porcupine heads go there are two ways other than the width to tell the difference between a "73-"75 head and a "76-'78 head.

The '73-'75 head had fmf / fmf casted on to the bottom fin and most of them had one solid fin all the way around. By '76 Donny was scalloping the bottom fin on all of his heads and casting fmf on one side and his name "Emler" on the other. If you look up pictures of cr125's on the web, knowing the above, you will start to spot people who have the wrong head for the year bike.

I guess there could be some overlap of scalloping and solid bottom fin heads around between the two as well as the cast lettering I don't know, but the dead give away is the width. The '73-'75 is about 6 1/2 inches wide and the '76-'78 is a little over 7 inches wide. Both heads are about the same measurement in length, a little over 7 inches. I have never seen a solid bottom fin head that fir a '76, but there are lots of pictures out there of the scalloped "76-"78 porcupine head overhanging the barrel on a "73-"75 Elsinore.

Here are some good pictures depicting the above;



|


2/25/2020 3:12 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/25/2020 3:15 PM

Yes, I know about Klemm. Gary of DG lives here in my town of Prescott. He has immense respect for Harry and told me he contributes a large portion of his success due to Harry's intellect and work ethic. Gary also told me some really funny stories about the early days of DG. One involved Gary, Harry, Donny Emler and the "mafia" in Vegas.

But that story would need it's own thread... 😳

|


3/11/2020 2:49 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/11/2020 5:21 PM

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone helping me figure this whole vintage thing out. Still have a ways to go, but I managed to get a swingarm, pipe, some sweet factory bolts and a head. I wanted to post up some links and notes I wrote down from all the info everyone has been so gracious in providing to me. This is not, by far, a comprehensive list, nor can I vouch for it's 100% accuracy, but it should help others starting out from essentially a zero knowledge base like I did.
OEM Schematic / OEM Parts
Netherlands OEM parts & schematic
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cr125m2-elsinore-1976-usa_model585/partslist/#.XkxJZy3MwW9Custom

Builders / Parts
Honda trickery at it’s best. If you don’t see it ask. Stevie can do it!
https://www.phildentonengineering.com/

Dave Miller Concepts - Still makes Porcupine head and exhausts
https://www.facebook.com/Dave-Miller-Concepts-137383096290268/

https://www.redrocketparts.com/product-category/honda/cr/1974-78-125-elsinore-mr175/

Motor Work
Teddy Boyko – knows his Elsinores and vintage bikes
https://boykoracing.com/

Mikuni 32mm carb kit w/boots
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1976-Honda-CR125-Elsinore-New-Mikuni-32mm-Carb-Kit-Vintage-MX-CR-DG-FMF-/133119949511

Mikuni 32mm / 34mm
https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Round-Slide-Carburetor-VM32-193/dp/B00SJWQ1RW

http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900029375

https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Round-Slide-Carburetor-VM34-168/dp/B000GV8QAO/ref=sr_1_1

Exhaust
ProForm Exhaust PFR
https://www.vmxracing.com/1976-77-78-125-proform-pipe-build-in-silencer.html

DG Pipe
http://www.dgperformance.com/dg-performance-models.php?category=Honda&model=CR125&appYear=1975

'74 Exhaust Flange
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/joint-exhaust_18351360700/#.XkypaiRlDDs

Exhaust Springs
https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=187247

https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=187677

Shocks / Suspension
Shock Length
14 ¼ to 14 ¾ max
Whatever you do don't go above 14 3/4" or the bike will feel tall in my opinion for the fork setup...unless of course you are going to sport some Simon or Marzocchi 9" travel fork$ on it!

Mike Crow. He left Race Tech to be on his own. Go to guy for vintage knowledge and set up
https://www.facebook.com/crowperformance/

Race tech – They have own shock line / does fork mods
https://racetech.com/page/title/G3S%20Dual%20Shocks

Worx Shocks (Used to be Works Performance)
http://www.worxshocks.com/
http://www.worxshocks.com/html/vintage.html
worxshocks@gmail.com

Ohlins Shock builder
https://www.propilotsuspension.com/index.php/vintage-mx/

http://www.vintageohlins.com

Fork Tubes
https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=187281&cat=1074&page=1

Refinishes Fork Leg lowers and clear powder coats - $125.00 can do triple clamps too
sandman800ss@hotmail.com

Decals
DG Pipe decal
https://www.fastguystuff.com/DG-Pipe-decal-sticker-p/fg-81.htm

DG Swingarm decal
https://www.fastguystuff.com/DG-swingarm-decal-set-Warren-Reid-p/fg-302.htm

Tank for ‘74
Non OEM Painted / has no paint version for $249.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183845486219

Fuel Petcock
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-1976-1977-1978-CR125-CR125M-Elsinore-Fuel-Tank-Petcock-16950-400-005/163986930365?epid=1529563964&hash=item262e61fabd:g:9boAAOSw3XZcyJgR

Side panels / Number plates
https://www.fastguystuff.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=FG-238
Number plate ovals
https://www.fastguystuff.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=FG-216

Oval number plate backing dimensions
9 7/8" horizontal x 7 15/16"

Side panel rubber straps
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/83503-400-000

Side panel / number plate brackets
https://www.redrocketparts.com/product/universal-bracket-replacement-for-any-bike-plastic/?fbclid=IwAR2Exy25ufv7HLGgpmtm-ushsXLKO9j4RJCi3Saq8RzFOrVkGO5OtZZ6sTI

Cables OEM and Non OEM
@ Rocky Mountain Throttle, Clutch, Front brake
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/0

Rear Brake cable non OEM
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/rear-brake-cable-cr125m

Rear brake cable reproduction best version?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Cable-Honda-CR125-CR125M-MT125-MR175-Elsinore-43450-400-000/352854048037?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item5227bd7d25:g:yaAAAOSw5LRdzYKC

https://www.amazon.com/VintCo-Brake-Cable-Honda-CR125/dp/B082MXQF19

Genuine Spoke set (pricey $285)
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/honda-cr125m-spoke-set

Kill switch
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/honda-push-button-kill-switch

https://www.speedandsport.com/index.php/parts/accessories/killbutton-honda-cr-style/

Parts Misc

http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts?

https://www.vmxracing.com/HondaCR/1974-78-125-elsinore-mr175/

Chain guide
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CR125-CR250-1973-1974-CR125M-CR250M-Chain-Guide-Vintage-Protec-Elsinore/271401506414?hash=item3f30ca566e:g:Zw4AAOSwws5cWw8o

Reproduction ignition cover
https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=186878&cat=589&page=1

Seat
https://bikeseatfactory.com/Honda-1973-1974-1975-cr125-elsinore-motorcycle-seat-cover-foam/

https://bikeseatfactory.com/Honda-1973-1974-1975-cr125-elsinore-motorcycle-seat-with-metal-pan/

Buy plastic here - make sure it is same as VMX
https://amsracing.com/

Rear axle nut
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/honda-12mm-self-locking-axle-nut

Fuel tank collar?
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/cr125-cr250-fuel-tank-washer

Rear brake lever pin
http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/pin-b-brake-rod-joint

Handlebars Renthal - Jimmy Button
https://www.amazon.com/RENTHAL-HANDLEBAR-JIMMY-BUTTON-BLACK/dp/B002KOII26

Swing arms
http://www.klpracing.com/index.html
https://amsracing.com/product/1976-1978-honda-cr-125-thor-style

Foot pegs
https://amsracing.com/product/1974-1978-honda-cr-125
https://www.vmxracing.com/1974-78-cr125-wide-foot-pegs-set.html

Bolts
https://specbolt.com/honda-elsinore-1973-1987-cr-mr-mt-150pc-bolt-kit/

Works look - dished and flanged (Individual)
https://specbolt.com/nickel-wurks/

'76 bolt kits - engine
https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19676&cat=&page=17

http://re-mx.com/honda-cr125-cr250-parts/cr125-stainless-allen-head

Bolts for rest of bike:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Elsinore-Restoration-Bolt-Kit-CR-125-250-480-500-MR-MT-CR125-CR250-/150933919001?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

ASV Levers
Front brake F4
https://asvinventions.com/f4-series-off-road-brake-lever-bdf405/#product-tab-description

Clutch F4 Pro
https://asvinventions.com/f4-series-off-road-quad-pro-model-clutch-lever-cdf406px/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASV-F4-Series-Pro-Model-Clutch-Lever-Black-Short-CR-CRF-YZF-RMZ-KXF-125-250-450/233495486373?hash=item365d6a5fa5:g:Az8AAOSwM2deR02b

Clutch F4 Regular perch (needs dust cover)
https://asvinventions.com/f4-series-off-road-quad-clutch-lever-cdf406sx/#product-tab-description

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASV-Inventions-F4-Series-Clutch-Lever-With-Standard-Perch-CDF406SX/333504936333?hash=item4da671798d:g:EaoAAOSwHEleOYNM

F2 Brake
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASV-Inventions-F2-Series-Universal-Cable-Brake-Lever-w-Perch-Black-BDF205-K/273120165385?hash=item3f973afe09:g:DiAAAOSwfHVbMT0I:sc:UPSGround!86303!US!-1

F2 Clutch (needs dust cover)
https://asvinventions.com/f2-series-off-road-clutch-lever-cdf206sx/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASV-F2-Black-Unbreakable-Folding-Front-Clutch-Lever-Yamaha-Raptor-125/362905918634?hash=item547ee0dcaa:g:OScAAOSwADReO3h3

F2 & F4
https://asvinventions.com/dmsearch/?q=BDC605+BDF205-K+BDF405+CDC606PX+CDF206SX+CDF406PX+CDF406SX

Engine case paint
PJ1 Satin Black Engine and Crank Case Paint

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/910-637/pj1-satin-black-engine-and-crank-case-paint

PJ1 beautiful satin finish from a shaker can anybody can paint with this product and have a factory finish.. all you need to do is spend some time on your prep work...that is the key to a beautiful satin finish from a shaker can. The removal of old paint & lightly wetsand is a must... If you want a great finish pre-heat your oven to 150 degrese and place painted part in oven for (5) minutes with oven OFF.... remove painted part & let cool for (1) hour....

Forums
http://www.honda-elsinore.com/

http://www.vintagemx.us/cgi-bin/swapmeet.cgi

Facebook Groups
Honda CR/Elsinore 2 Strokes
https://www.facebook.com/groups/120373764729960/

Honda Elsinore 73 -80 parts for sale trade or wanted
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1610731349016041/

Mark's Vintage Motocross Swapmeet
https://www.facebook.com/groups/168212026656009/

Pictures for reference
https://www.mecum.com/lots/LV0118-315112/1976-honda-cr125-fmf-racer/

|


3/12/2020 5:43 AM

I race a 74 with a standard '77 9 port cylinder and a 30 mm Mikuni. I turned the carb spigot down to fit the standard manifold. It fixed the loading up and gives it a little more everywhere. I run a T&M cast radial head which has more mass and presmably better cooling than the early small fin unit.

|

If the glass is half full it's twice as big as it needs to be.