1996 CR250 McGrath Replica Rebuild

jtracing6
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Location
Dundalk IE
10/28/2012 11:26am
cavy wrote:
Guys I just finished doing all my suspension/swingarm/linkages bearings and have everything put back together but the spring that mounts to the rear brake lever.I see...
Guys I just finished doing all my suspension/swingarm/linkages bearings and have everything put back together but the spring that mounts to the rear brake lever.I see where it mounts to rear brake pedal underneath it but can't see where the other end of the spring goes to.Help.If someone could post a picture of this it would be cool,Thanks Cavy.
The top end of the brake pedal spring mounts just inside where the swing arm pivot bolt goes.
The pivot bolt hole is quite recessed and you will see the brake pedal spring hole at around the "5 o'clock" position.
cavy
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Ottawa, IL US
10/29/2012 9:38am
Thanks guys for your help.
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
10/30/2012 7:35am
Ok guys,.. had a great weekend here and craigs list has been good to me! :D

Pickup up a set of '99 forks and triples in mind condition as well as a '95 front wheel assembly "Complete" with brakes, axle, and spacers/washers.. I also have a set of '95 triples as well. All this means is that I'm moving that much closer to getting some "Modern" TC Forks on my '93 - YAY!

I've also received all of my new plastic as well as my graphics kit and seat cover from Throttle jockey (Thanks Chris!!!),.. I was even lucky enough to score a PlasticWerks Front number plate as well -wooohoo!

Along with the 99 forks and triples, I also bought the front and rear brake assemblies off of that '99,.. they guy just had the calipers powder coated red and rebuild - and they haddn't been installed yet.

here's a few pics of some of that stuff Smile








I'd really like to get some more input on the Fork mod/conversion - I know CamP and a few others have done this using various methods (96 clamps and Dr.Pepper shims),.. But I think I have enough parts and materials to proceed with this swap and get things done (Thinking of boring out the bottoms of my '95 triples so the stops are correct...)

Also, I'm looking for more specific info on the rear brake up grade since I now have the '99 rear brake set up including Rotor

Thanks again!
Rick
CamP
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10/30/2012 8:02pm
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp, the machinist must get the centerline dead straight or else the forks will bind. I've had enough bad machine work over the last 30 years that I know that doing it right will be easier said than done.

The Shop

WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
10/31/2012 3:13pm
Thanks for the input Smile ... If I want it "Perfect" I'll pursue mounting the whole '99 Front end including the triples,.. just need to address the steering stops (Easily done by welding stops to the steering head on the frame). And the longer "stem" ,... probably have to try and shim the bearings or even possibly press the 99 clamps on the 95 stem,... or even just have a new stem made if they're not compatible ... or buy a set of 96 triples and shim them :D

So,.. who's done the rear brake mod?... Smile
CamP
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Colleyville, TX US
10/31/2012 3:33pm Edited Date/Time 10/31/2012 3:34pm
The perfect solution is a set of custom Emig clamps. He's already made clamps for the steel frame bikes that are machined for the TC Showa's, so he has the CNC program. The downside is they are pricey.
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
10/31/2012 4:04pm
Did I mention that I wasn't looking to break the bank on this project? HAHA!,... I had actually thought about that at one point,.. what's the price for a set of those anyway?

Seems like someone over at the ATM forums had a set of '96 triples that I could basically "have",.. I need to follow up on that I guess. They're cheap enough and that way I'd have "Every" Option here on site to compare and layout to see what works the best - I'm still just in the planning process at this point,.. hoping for a bit more good weather around here to get a couple more rides in,.. then it'll be time to tear down the bike and embark on this great adventure Smile
CamP
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10/31/2012 5:50pm
WERNER1 wrote:
Did I mention that I wasn't looking to break the bank on this project? HAHA!,... I had actually thought about that at one point,.. what's the...
Did I mention that I wasn't looking to break the bank on this project? HAHA!,... I had actually thought about that at one point,.. what's the price for a set of those anyway?

Seems like someone over at the ATM forums had a set of '96 triples that I could basically "have",.. I need to follow up on that I guess. They're cheap enough and that way I'd have "Every" Option here on site to compare and layout to see what works the best - I'm still just in the planning process at this point,.. hoping for a bit more good weather around here to get a couple more rides in,.. then it'll be time to tear down the bike and embark on this great adventure Smile
I talked to Emig about the clamps a while back. I can't remember the number, but it gave me sticker shock. If someone is willing to give you a set of '96 clamps, that's a no-brainer. The aluminum shims work excellently. I've got about 8 hours of racing and practice with the shims and the forks never moved with 15ft/lbs on the bottom and 16ft/lbs on the top clamp.
MCfan4life
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Qld AU
10/31/2012 5:55pm
If you look back through the pages I'm pretty sure I posted the price of the Emig clamps. I went all out and got the stem, bearings and seals all included though. Sorry I'm at work and don't have time to scan the pages, but its in here somewhere.
MCfan4life
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10/31/2012 5:58pm Edited Date/Time 10/31/2012 6:01pm
WERNER1 wrote:
Thanks for the input :) ... If I want it "Perfect" I'll pursue mounting the whole '99 Front end including the triples,.. just need to address...
Thanks for the input Smile ... If I want it "Perfect" I'll pursue mounting the whole '99 Front end including the triples,.. just need to address the steering stops (Easily done by welding stops to the steering head on the frame). And the longer "stem" ,... probably have to try and shim the bearings or even possibly press the 99 clamps on the 95 stem,... or even just have a new stem made if they're not compatible ... or buy a set of 96 triples and shim them :D

So,.. who's done the rear brake mod?... Smile
Rear brake mods are also listed somewhere in the thread - you'll have to scan the pages. But it basically involves a 97-99 CR250 rear disc, 97-99 caliper carrier and a YZ banjo bolt for the caliper as there isn't enough clearance between the swing arm and caliper for the CR banjo bolt.

Make sure you don't go with a 97 CR125 disc and carrier as they are the same as a 96 CR125/250. Also the 2000 and later CR's are a completely different set-up again.
MR. X
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North Tonawanda, NY US
10/31/2012 7:14pm
CamP wrote:
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp...
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp, the machinist must get the centerline dead straight or else the forks will bind. I've had enough bad machine work over the last 30 years that I know that doing it right will be easier said than done.
Sounds like you need to find a machinist with better skills, its the bad ones that give the good ones a bad name.
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
10/31/2012 8:47pm
MR. X wrote:
Sounds like you need to find a machinist with better skills, its the bad ones that give the good ones a bad name.
I'm very optimistic about this statement Smile .... the guy I've got lined up has made more than a few triple's for his own personal "Vintage" motorcycle collection (Older fella, sounds like he knows what he's doing.) I'm hoping he's one of those true old school machinist who could make a swiss watch the size of a dime Smile

MCfan - I did read about that brake mod in this thread,.. I don't recall it going into much detail though,.. I'll have to go back and check,.. But I've got a complete set up from a '99 CR250 for that mod (See the red calipers and brackets :D ) .... I'll sift back through everything this weekend when I have a bit more time,... I know I missed the part about the banjo bolt,.. or at least didn't pick up on it,... I was more concentrating on the material removal from the swing arm to accept the Caliper holder/bracket (???)
MCfan4life
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10/31/2012 10:36pm
WERNER1 wrote:
I'm very optimistic about this statement :) .... the guy I've got lined up has made more than a few triple's for his own personal "Vintage"...
I'm very optimistic about this statement Smile .... the guy I've got lined up has made more than a few triple's for his own personal "Vintage" motorcycle collection (Older fella, sounds like he knows what he's doing.) I'm hoping he's one of those true old school machinist who could make a swiss watch the size of a dime Smile

MCfan - I did read about that brake mod in this thread,.. I don't recall it going into much detail though,.. I'll have to go back and check,.. But I've got a complete set up from a '99 CR250 for that mod (See the red calipers and brackets :D ) .... I'll sift back through everything this weekend when I have a bit more time,... I know I missed the part about the banjo bolt,.. or at least didn't pick up on it,... I was more concentrating on the material removal from the swing arm to accept the Caliper holder/bracket (???)
No need to remove any material. Just bolt on all the bits Cool
MR. X
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11/1/2012 3:23am
WERNER1 wrote:
I'm very optimistic about this statement :) .... the guy I've got lined up has made more than a few triple's for his own personal "Vintage"...
I'm very optimistic about this statement Smile .... the guy I've got lined up has made more than a few triple's for his own personal "Vintage" motorcycle collection (Older fella, sounds like he knows what he's doing.) I'm hoping he's one of those true old school machinist who could make a swiss watch the size of a dime Smile

MCfan - I did read about that brake mod in this thread,.. I don't recall it going into much detail though,.. I'll have to go back and check,.. But I've got a complete set up from a '99 CR250 for that mod (See the red calipers and brackets :D ) .... I'll sift back through everything this weekend when I have a bit more time,... I know I missed the part about the banjo bolt,.. or at least didn't pick up on it,... I was more concentrating on the material removal from the swing arm to accept the Caliper holder/bracket (???)
Cool,nothing better than getting new parts hand made, all these damn rebuild threads is making me wanna knock the barn dust off my 92 kx250 and finally get started.
CamP
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Colleyville, TX US
11/1/2012 7:42am
CamP wrote:
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp...
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp, the machinist must get the centerline dead straight or else the forks will bind. I've had enough bad machine work over the last 30 years that I know that doing it right will be easier said than done.
MR. X wrote:
Sounds like you need to find a machinist with better skills, its the bad ones that give the good ones a bad name.
The problem with boring the lower is maintaining the original centerline of the bore and ensuring that the axis remains parallel to the steering stem. That will be an extremely difficult task because there is no flat and true surface on the lower clamp. When these clamps are machined by the OEM's, all three holes are machined at the same time to ensure that their placement is dead on and all holes are parallel. A local machinist simply can't do that so the best he can do is get it close, even if he goes to the trouble of building an elaborate fixture to hold the clamp perfectly vertical. Getting it close doesn't cut it because if the hole is just .001" off axis, you are going to get an out of alignment fork and it will bind. A line hone would be better than a boring bar for this task because it's easier to maintain the original centerline, but you still have to keep the hole parallel to the stem, and that's going to be difficult to accomplish no matter how good the machinist is.
MR. X
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North Tonawanda, NY US
11/1/2012 9:17am
CamP wrote:
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp...
Personally, I think that shimming the 96 lower clamp is a better option than trying to bore the 95 lower. If you bore the 95 clamp, the machinist must get the centerline dead straight or else the forks will bind. I've had enough bad machine work over the last 30 years that I know that doing it right will be easier said than done.
MR. X wrote:
Sounds like you need to find a machinist with better skills, its the bad ones that give the good ones a bad name.
CamP wrote:
The problem with boring the lower is maintaining the original centerline of the bore and ensuring that the axis remains parallel to the steering stem. That...
The problem with boring the lower is maintaining the original centerline of the bore and ensuring that the axis remains parallel to the steering stem. That will be an extremely difficult task because there is no flat and true surface on the lower clamp. When these clamps are machined by the OEM's, all three holes are machined at the same time to ensure that their placement is dead on and all holes are parallel. A local machinist simply can't do that so the best he can do is get it close, even if he goes to the trouble of building an elaborate fixture to hold the clamp perfectly vertical. Getting it close doesn't cut it because if the hole is just .001" off axis, you are going to get an out of alignment fork and it will bind. A line hone would be better than a boring bar for this task because it's easier to maintain the original centerline, but you still have to keep the hole parallel to the stem, and that's going to be difficult to accomplish no matter how good the machinist is.
I agree about the average machinist not being able to figure it out, trust me I work with some of them. These rebuild threads are damn addicting!
dogger315
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11/22/2010
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CA US
11/1/2012 3:26pm
Any competent machinist can bore the triple clamps. When you mount A-kit forks, the
triple clamps from all the manufacturers have to be bored to accommodate the larger
tube. This process is done to an off the shelf clamp. You can always tell when you
are getting a set of bored clamps if they are anodized, because the anodization will
be bored off. If you look at these two pictures, you can see the clamps that were
bored, and a set that wasn't.

Cam is right about the possibility of screwing it up. That's why I tell everybody, once
you find a good machinist, welder, etc., be good to them (six packs, etc.) - they're worth
it.

If I can determine wether or not there is enough interest, I'm considering in investing in
the necessary equipment to manufacture billet items like, linkages, triple clamps, axle
blocks, clutch and ignition covers, etc. The items I'm looking at would give me the
ability to reverse engineer existing pieces as well as create new ones. For instance,
if I had an OE 96 bottom clamp and an OE 99 bottom clamp, I could computer model
a new clamp that would adapt 99 forks to the stealie CR frames. I already have some
of this gear to use for the CR250 hybrid project I'm working on, but due to the start up
cost for things like a CNC mill, I'm farming the rest out.

dogger



MR. X
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North Tonawanda, NY US
11/1/2012 3:37pm
dogger315 wrote:
Any competent machinist can bore the triple clamps. When you mount A-kit forks, the triple clamps from all the manufacturers have to be bored to accommodate...
Any competent machinist can bore the triple clamps. When you mount A-kit forks, the
triple clamps from all the manufacturers have to be bored to accommodate the larger
tube. This process is done to an off the shelf clamp. You can always tell when you
are getting a set of bored clamps if they are anodized, because the anodization will
be bored off. If you look at these two pictures, you can see the clamps that were
bored, and a set that wasn't.

Cam is right about the possibility of screwing it up. That's why I tell everybody, once
you find a good machinist, welder, etc., be good to them (six packs, etc.) - they're worth
it.

If I can determine wether or not there is enough interest, I'm considering in investing in
the necessary equipment to manufacture billet items like, linkages, triple clamps, axle
blocks, clutch and ignition covers, etc. The items I'm looking at would give me the
ability to reverse engineer existing pieces as well as create new ones. For instance,
if I had an OE 96 bottom clamp and an OE 99 bottom clamp, I could computer model
a new clamp that would adapt 99 forks to the stealie CR frames. I already have some
of this gear to use for the CR250 hybrid project I'm working on, but due to the start up
cost for things like a CNC mill, I'm farming the rest out.

dogger



I learned a while ago to not tell my friends how easy there idea of impossible was when it comes to machining , to many people want stuff done for nothing , hell they dont even want to pay for the material and they always want it yesterday.
CamP
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Location
Colleyville, TX US
11/1/2012 9:14pm
dogger315 wrote:
Any competent machinist can bore the triple clamps. When you mount A-kit forks, the triple clamps from all the manufacturers have to be bored to accommodate...
Any competent machinist can bore the triple clamps. When you mount A-kit forks, the
triple clamps from all the manufacturers have to be bored to accommodate the larger
tube. This process is done to an off the shelf clamp. You can always tell when you
are getting a set of bored clamps if they are anodized, because the anodization will
be bored off. If you look at these two pictures, you can see the clamps that were
bored, and a set that wasn't.

Cam is right about the possibility of screwing it up. That's why I tell everybody, once
you find a good machinist, welder, etc., be good to them (six packs, etc.) - they're worth
it.

If I can determine wether or not there is enough interest, I'm considering in investing in
the necessary equipment to manufacture billet items like, linkages, triple clamps, axle
blocks, clutch and ignition covers, etc. The items I'm looking at would give me the
ability to reverse engineer existing pieces as well as create new ones. For instance,
if I had an OE 96 bottom clamp and an OE 99 bottom clamp, I could computer model
a new clamp that would adapt 99 forks to the stealie CR frames. I already have some
of this gear to use for the CR250 hybrid project I'm working on, but due to the start up
cost for things like a CNC mill, I'm farming the rest out.

dogger



MR. X wrote:
I learned a while ago to not tell my friends how easy there idea of impossible was when it comes to machining , to many people...
I learned a while ago to not tell my friends how easy there idea of impossible was when it comes to machining , to many people want stuff done for nothing , hell they dont even want to pay for the material and they always want it yesterday.
I know the guy y'all are talking about. He's a good friend with 35 years of machining/welding at GD, Vought and Lockheed and he has a new 4 axis CNC machine in his garage. He can do anything you want with metal, including boring out a stock 95 clamp to accept new Showa's. The deal is, if I took him the 95 clamp for bore job , he'd want to CNC one from billet instead and he would use up a day making it happen. I don't want to do that because he won't let me pay him, and it would just a very involved esoteric exercise when considering that the shimmed 96 clamp works perfectly well.
MR. X
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11/2/2012 5:28am
CamP wrote:
I know the guy y'all are talking about. He's a good friend with 35 years of machining/welding at GD, Vought and Lockheed and he has a...
I know the guy y'all are talking about. He's a good friend with 35 years of machining/welding at GD, Vought and Lockheed and he has a new 4 axis CNC machine in his garage. He can do anything you want with metal, including boring out a stock 95 clamp to accept new Showa's. The deal is, if I took him the 95 clamp for bore job , he'd want to CNC one from billet instead and he would use up a day making it happen. I don't want to do that because he won't let me pay him, and it would just a very involved esoteric exercise when considering that the shimmed 96 clamp works perfectly well.
I'm guilty of doing the same thing, minus the cnc machine in garage of course, I spend way to much time reinventing the wheel. The saying "If its worth doing, it worth over doing " has cost me a lot of hours after work for something that has a simple fix.
11/2/2012 7:56am
Cam most of the guys that will do stuff for you and not want much or anything in return just like to know they have some good juju built up in the kharma bank. Plus it is always nice to know a favor can be called in at a later date. Most likely never though, most of my" I owe you one' s" are collecting dust . Maybe someday.......I'll have a need for them. Well maybe it sounds a little God Father esque......may have to rethink that .
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
11/2/2012 8:14am
Hey Dogger :D

I hear you loud n clear Cam,.. it makes perfect sense financially just to do the '96 thing with the shims,.. Depending on how much my guy will charge to do the '95 boring job,.. I may just try it for giggles

I don't have any mic's and calipers here,.. but does anyone know for sure if the Stem dimensions (Diameter) on the 95-96's and the 99's are the "Same",.. From what I gather there is about 3/8" that needs to be taken up on the '99 clamps/stem - Seems like if you could press on the 99 lower onto the 95/96 stem that would be the easiest and most cost effective way to ensure everything is correct,.. .. then it's just a matter of the "stops"... which is pretty basic. (???)

Yamaha Banjo Bolt: Is there a certan year(s) that are typically used for this? (Sorry,... still haven't had a chance to sift back through the previous years yet..)
dogger315
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11/22/2010
Location
CA US
11/2/2012 9:07am
The 95-96 stem takes two different sized bearings. The top bearing is the same for both
the 96 and the 99, but the 96 stem is not as big around at the bottom as the 99, so it
uses a different sized bearing.

The best way to determine if the stems can be swapped is to press them out of the
bottom clamps and measure . If you can use your original stem, that would make
life easier. If you can't, it looks like you'll need to press out the bottom race and
replace it with a bearing/race combo from a 99. Obviously, the head tubes are the
same diameter since both use the same top bearing/race. Another thing you'll
need to compare is the stem length and threads.

Cam and X, Unfortunately I don't have access to a "karma seeking" machinist that
works for free. That's why I'm trying to gear up to do the work myself. Since I started
doing this, I've learned how to paint, polish, powder coat, weld, anodize, plate, and
just about everything other skill needed to build or restore a bike. The more work
I can do "in house", the more money I save and the more control I have over the
results.

By the way, looks like we've done a pretty good job of jacking MCfan4life's thread.

dogger
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
11/2/2012 10:19am
By the way, looks like we've done a pretty good job of jacking MCfan4life's thread.

whoops! .... ah, I think everything here has been mentioned previously,.. we're just going into more detail on it Smile

I believe the lower bearings are the same on the 93 as they are on the 99's (??) ... I guess I'll have to get those '96 clamps and press everything apart on ALL of them and start doing some comparisons .... I also sent an email to David about his lower triple that he used on his '96 conversion,.. he had one made from someone (Emig maybe?).. but according to that thread he was halting that project and selling everything off ... yet another option...

Still hoping to get another ride or two in this year before the weather turns real nasty,.. then it's on to "Tear Down" TIME!
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
11/2/2012 12:49pm
I just got off the phone with Emig Racing,.. those "McGrath" replica "Works" Triples are 600 bucks! ..... way too rich for my blood Smile .... but I read back through this thread and didn't see the price any where so I thought I'd post it Smile

The odd part is I asked them about just the Lower clamp,.. and they said they didn't offer anything like that,.. But I know David purchased one from them.... weird! ...
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
11/2/2012 1:42pm Edited Date/Time 11/2/2012 1:44pm
Dogger - the 99 and 93 share the same exact bearings,.. and I would assume that the stem is the same on both ends as well in terms of OD. ... the length is the kicker here as the 99's clamps are spaced out about 3/8" further apart than the 93's....

Using the complete 99 set up there will need to be that approx. 3/8" taken up some where such as below/above the bearings (3/16th on each end,.. or all one one side..which ever) - I think this is do-able..

One thing I have noticed as I look at my spare set of '93 forks along side the 99's is that the length from the edge of the fork cap to the center line of the axle is about 1/4" or so longer on the 99's - Now I'm not sure how much a 1/4" would matter in the whole scheme of things on the front end, but it doesn't look like there's much room to raise the forks up in the triples either do to where each clamp rides on the outer tube (?) .... and more so the 93's have that fine line about a 1/4" down or so from the fork cap to line up with the top of the clamp,.. so that puts the bike about almost 3/8" or taller stance theoretically using the 99 set up .... (???)

Sorry to beat this dead horse into the ground with this whole fork subject, but it seems like a lot of guys have done this or at least attempted to do this mod with good results, and I'm sure Im super over analyzing things, but I want' things to be as "correct" as possible when it's all said and done...
dogger315
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Location
CA US
11/2/2012 2:47pm
Are you sure about the bearings? The bearings have different part numbers on the 96 (different
bearings). The 99 has the same part number top and bottom which is the same part number as
the top bearing on the 96. Best to take a caliper and measure the OD of both stems, top and bottom.

Like I said earlier, if the 96 stem will fit, that's your best bet. If you have to use the 99 stem, I would
take it to a machine shop and have the threads lengthened and the excess length cut off until it
mimics the 96 stem.

Don't worry about the additional length of the fork if you're only talking about 1/4". First check the lugs on
both forks to see if they are the same. If they are, you can easily move the forks up in the triples 1/4" to
compensate. The important thing is both forks are the same length.

dogger
WERNER1
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Belleville, IL US
11/2/2012 3:01pm
no you are correct,.. the "96" has the different bottom bearing/head pipe,.. but the 93 and 99 share the same bearings/head pipes on both the top and bottom.. .. just the stem and dust seals are different Smile

As today has been pretty much dedicated to getting a game plan and solution to this whole fork episode,.. I found some more info that confirms that the 98/99 triples will work with some minimal shimming and a bit of material removal from the Steering stops on the lower bracket/clamp. Smile .... although I'm still waiting on a call back from Emig Racing as their checking into the lower clamp they made for David back in July this year,.... if that ones not too pricey I may just bite the bullet and have at least one "Works" type part on my bike :D

you been check'n ur email? :D
JIM77
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Location
AU
11/3/2012 2:20am
WERNER1 wrote:
no you are correct,.. the "96" has the different bottom bearing/head pipe,.. but the 93 and 99 share the same bearings/head pipes on both the top...
no you are correct,.. the "96" has the different bottom bearing/head pipe,.. but the 93 and 99 share the same bearings/head pipes on both the top and bottom.. .. just the stem and dust seals are different Smile

As today has been pretty much dedicated to getting a game plan and solution to this whole fork episode,.. I found some more info that confirms that the 98/99 triples will work with some minimal shimming and a bit of material removal from the Steering stops on the lower bracket/clamp. Smile .... although I'm still waiting on a call back from Emig Racing as their checking into the lower clamp they made for David back in July this year,.... if that ones not too pricey I may just bite the bullet and have at least one "Works" type part on my bike :D

you been check'n ur email? :D
David is a thief mate. Long Story short, I was supposed to buy his parts, he took my money, gave me the run around long enough to clear the funds from Paypal and basically disappeared.

I doubt you will get a response.
CamP
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11/3/2012 12:50pm
JIM77 wrote:
David is a thief mate. Long Story short, I was supposed to buy his parts, he took my money, gave me the run around long enough...
David is a thief mate. Long Story short, I was supposed to buy his parts, he took my money, gave me the run around long enough to clear the funds from Paypal and basically disappeared.

I doubt you will get a response.
Sorry to hear that. He seemed like a squirrel from post #1. If he didn't live on the other side of the state, I'd have a face to face talk to him for you.

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