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370
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9/13/2009
Location
Magnolia, TX
US
nine1seven
10/30/2010 6:48pm
10/30/2010 6:48pm
Edited Date/Time
12/27/2019 9:08am
Hey guys, I picked up one of my dream bikes awhile back, a 1987 CR250. I've been saving up some cash and rounding up parts to get it restored.
I bought this bike for $800. It is in pretty good shape except for the right side case which is severely corroded. When I started it up, coolant poured out the weep hole under the water pump. Also, the rear rim has a big flat spot on it. It appears to be a low time bike judging by the original tires and plastic. The only aftermarket parts are an Ohlins shock, Renthal bars and a dented Pro-Circuit pipe.
Disassembled:
I bought this bike for $800. It is in pretty good shape except for the right side case which is severely corroded. When I started it up, coolant poured out the weep hole under the water pump. Also, the rear rim has a big flat spot on it. It appears to be a low time bike judging by the original tires and plastic. The only aftermarket parts are an Ohlins shock, Renthal bars and a dented Pro-Circuit pipe.
Disassembled:
I found an original NOS Mag right side cover at a dealer in NY. Honda no longer makes them so I am lucky to have this one. It is coated inside and out so hopefully it lasts. I'll probably drain the coolant when I put the bike up unless someone knows of a coolant type or method that won't corrode Magnesium.
If anyone out there knows where I could find a new or nearly new OEM seat/cover and Gold DID 18X2.15 36 spoke Rear Rim, please let me know!
The Shop
The top tanks must be cut open and the cores rodded out and re welded.A hot tank will not due..
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/80s-Honda-CR-waterpump-info,1070848
The wheels have two options. You can repair the flat spot (most of the time) in a press with some 2x4's. If there are cracks they may be welded from the inside of the rim. This depends on how much electrolysis has taken place with the rim.
The other option is replacing with a new Excel wheel. You will most likely have to go to a 19inch if you want gold rims. I am pretty sure you can get 18inch silver wheels new. Better tire selection with the 19.
To post pics on here, go to www.photobucket.com and create a free account. Upload your pics, click on one of them, highlight and copy the HTML text and paste it into your post.
A buddy of mine has a set of excel rims but they are mis-matched differing shades of gold. I thought I could re-annodize them so they match. I just need him to sell them to me for a good price.
I'm going to work on getting the frame and motor restored while I keep looking for parts.
Here is my frame sand blasted, metal prepped and ready for paint:
You should be able to see the Honda logo on the back of the seat cover. I made stencils for both sides of the seat cover and the Honda logo.
You will need to go to the auto parts store and get some vinyl paint to paint in the stencils. When you are done it will look just like the factory.
Ceet racing also has the seat foam for these bikes and they have the optional 1 inch taller foam as well. You will have to special order and it takes about 2 weeks time.
As you can see I had to replace my wheels.
Did you ship your seat base to Ceet and have them put the foam and cover on it or did you do it yourself?
I see you used a 19" rear. Assuming that is the stock hub, what spokes did you use?
Thanks for putting those pics up!
The hubs are stock, just powder coated, (new bearings and seals). I think the spokes are Buchanons? I did not lace the wheels, I had a friend lace them.
Money! Yes it takes money. About $3500 in parts. About 120 hours of my time over a years period. It has been enjoyable.
I have since ridden the bike about 20 times and raced it 4 times. I am racing this weekend!
Thanks for the complements!
Here's what it looked like before:
Maybe someone out there can tell me what is up with the forks that came on this bike. These are definitely not stockers. The bike came with an Ohlins shock and the forks are slightly longer and the fork caps have additional adjustments. I am thinking it is preload adjustment. The fork bottoms are different as well. One of the forks is bent slightly so I bought a stock set of 87 forks to replace them. After seeing the differences, maybe I should fix the trick ones that came on it. I just don't know enough about them.
Those forks that the bike came with are junk. They are Showa damping rod forks from an earlier model CR or and XR 600. The cartridge forks have a 17mm hex on top and a 19mm hex on the bottom.
10 weight fork oil set at 115 mm from the top
10mm of preload
I do not know what your weight is but I would surmise .42 fork springs, (180 to 200lbs rider). Try the springs that are in the forks first. They may be sufficient.
Compression 5 out
If you know how to disassemble the compression and rebound valving go ahead and do so. Surface both pistons and blow out and clean the shims. Make sure the check valve on the rebound assemble snaps back.
Check for dented sliders and repair if needed (this is why you should run fork leg protectors), they prevent dented sliders. I would not reccomend painting the sliders. The paint and clear coat will wear off quickly and they will look bad. Instead, hard anodize the sliders This protects them and prevents wear as well as reduces static friction.
Run fork boots. You can still get the stock ones from Honda and they will match your bike.
Pit Row
Bitchen bike! Nice 125. Smart move on the fork combination. As long as the bottoming cones fit in the 83 lower sliders. It sounds like you already figured that out.
Why did you go with yellow backgrounds with your 125?
I appreciate the sharing of your expertise, guys and am definitely going to put those tips to good use on my 87 project.
for 800. I was thinkin' about it for the vintage races that you do (I like how you said they wrap
up before noon, I'm sick of waiting 3 hours between moto's), but my recent medical and
dental bills have me in a bit of a hole at the moment.
I went to the SA Craigslist to look at the '87 CR250 and found this. MC's PC CR250
There are a lot of parts that are sold out and not available any longer so I've been scouring the earth looking for NOS parts.
I made some progress on the engine. The main problem was the water pump was leaking out the weep hole. I suspected the right side case would be corroded but wow...Here is how it looked when I started taking it apart.
I am going for a total rebuild on this motor. I split the cases and inspected everything. Alhough this bike would run when I got it, the cylinder had some scratches and scoring, probably from getting hot due to the plugged radiators and corroded water pump. Also, the clutch plates are completely worn out.
I sent the cylinder to US Chrome for re-plating since new cylinders are no longer available. You have to remove all the fittings, studs and power valve seats, etc before they will accept it. The cylinder head and base studs were frozen. I had a hard time getting them out with out breaking them. I was happy when I got the cylinder back, the bore looks like brand new.
After getting the cylinder I mocked the engine back together and media blasted it. I then took it back apart and painted each piece. I was able to get the engine data tag off and back on without damaging it. Here is what it looks like after paint:
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