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The first-gen Floaters are great years for us Suzuki guys, it will be worth the effort to get the bike set up properly. You can also try FullFloater.com on FB, lots of guys there who race these bikes regularly, you should be able to find a spring for a swap or buy. Or, try RaceTech or Works Performance for springs .. but it is possible that you might have to get one custom wound.
CamP knows a place to get this done, he races an '82 RM250, and he's in your area (Grapevine-Colleyville). He's a regular here and on FullFloater.com FB and is one of the great guys of our hobby.
If you install the proper stiff rear spring, you will need to add a lot more rebound damping. The easiest fix is to run 7wt, rather than experimenting with shim shuffling. If you run modern light shock oil w/ a considerably stiffer spring, the rear will be a pogo stick.
You guys racing Burleson? We'll be camping out Sat night and have the Vegas SX on.
The Shop
I gave David Lux a titanium 5.3kg YZF spring a while back and I don't think he used it. I'll see if he still has it.
CamP, you knew this off the top of your head?!? Seriously amigo you should enter dirt bike Jeopardy or become the next Mr. Know-It-All or something.
That is very, very cool to about the YZ spring. Heck that's close to a pound off the bike right there, and 125s are light anyway, esp compared to modern 4 strokes.
I had an '81 125 and opted for the OEM heavier spring due to my size. It helped an already great setup.
Thanks for the info as I had seen that on Race Tech and I was able to score the spring and the collars for $ 100.00 brand new.
Now if I can figure out why this 83 has a bladder in the reservoir ?? LoL
Currently have an 82 RM250 with this setup 6.8 race tech spring, works real good, also get the complete seal head your bushings are probably worn allowing it to flex the seal.
Do you think a 1986 RM 125 shock will work on the 1983 ? I have replaced the seal head already with new bladder and spring. I believe the shock body is worn and causes the seal head to start leaking. I called race tech and they can anodize the body for $ 250.00 plus new seal head and labor I'm looking at $ 600.00 almost. I have already spent $ 250.00 on the last rebuild w/o even riding.I found a pretty decent shock on ebay for a 1986 that I could put new seals in go with that one if it will work.
Pit Row
Anyhow, if you replace the seal head, tape the shock shaft threads till almost the size of the shaft to protect from cutting the new seals and ride over the shock shaft lip easier.
If you don't have access to nitrogen, go to the local bicycle shop purchase a high pressure pump for forks about 25.00 one time purchase, they pump up to 200psi. used this on all my shocks for years.
Check with Bike Bone Yard he should have a shock you can pickup under 50 bucks, there's tons of these laying around cheap.
So all is new and it just seems to be weeping from the new seal head. I have heard the shock body can expand and blow the seal out if the body is worn. I will check Bike Bone Yard as well and thanks for the info.
Let me know how you make out I think this is an 83 shaft, if you can't find a whole shock you can certainly have this part.
Shaft is in good condition
That might be perfectly what I need. Please let me know what I can send you for price and shipping on it.
I have a feeling I might have somebody rebuilding it again.
Do you know if the 1981 RM 125 shock will work on the 1983 ? I did find a pretty clean one in Germany but was not sure if the 82-83 was different from your post.
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