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If that does not work, start the bike, push off a bit, and snick it in gear. Ride around with the clutch lever pulled in, tapping the rear break a bit, but not enough to stall it. This may also help free the clutch.
If the plates are stuck tight, disassembly and fibers are probably in the future.
I will dig into this weekend when I have a bit more time.
and has made my old clutches smoother and less stick prone. Another tequnique I heard was tie the clutch lever in and let the bike sit over night.
I drained the oil. Looked like oil out of an old bike, some metallic. Pulled the cover, pulled the plates, measured the plates and the springs. Oh, before I pulled the plates, I pulled the lever in and out and watched the pressure plate move in and out. All the plates measured almost new, steel plates look great, clutch springs are in spec. Cleaned everything, oiled the back up, installed them, put oil it and test road. SAME. Clutch has proper free play.
What am I missing?
The Shop
What oil did you put in it?
look at the clutch release lever on the engine to see if someone lengthened it.
Remove all the freeplay and try it again.
I have always uses regular motor oil, 10W30. Clutch worked fine before the ignition system went hay wire.
Clutch release lever is stock
I will give it a try.
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The pic isn’t the best view but you can see the fiber plates fit good on the basket. I put ATF in this time, hopefully that does the trick.
Good luck on your build.
Pit Row
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also, if your fork boots are not stock, you should remove the spring from a fork then collapse it and see if the boot is preventing your forks from compression all the way if you haven't done this already.
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i bought a 465 swingarm for mine and should have it installed tomorrow and will try it out at a vintage race this sunday.
just curious, did you notice much difference in your 250 after you installed the longer arm. it should have made it slightly harder to turn.
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