1979 Honda CR250 Restoration

dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
Edited Date/Time 8/20/2018 1:55pm
For anyone interested, this is a series of post chronicling the frame up
restoration of a 1979 Honda CR250 "Red Rocket".

Here is the bike I started with. I won it on an Ebay auction advertised as a recent
restoration. I could tell from the Ebay pictures it was no where near restored, but
I thought it would make for a decent start.

I started by disassembling the bike and inspecting everything. The engine ran, but
the clutch was locked up. Both rims were dented and ruined, the tank, pipe and
silencers had several large dents, the plastic had been rattle can painted as had
the frame and engine. The suspension was sacked, sprockets hooked. It was
about what you expect from a half baked restoration attempt.

Before I started this project, I had to decide if I was building a rider or a dust collector.
I also decided to restore rather than replace everything possible, and finally, I was
determined to keep the bike as 100% OE as I could.

Here is the frame right out of the curing oven. I soda blasted it to get rid of the
cheasy paint and rust. I commisioned one of the big powder manufacturers to
produce a powder color match for Tahtian Red since nobody made that exact
color.

Frame with swingarm

Next up were the shocks. After a lot of searching, I found two dampers that still had
their charge. I restored the bodies and polished the chrome shafts. The hardware
was sent out for Cadmium plating in the original Gold chromate color. I located a
couple of NOS springs that were a mess from shelf wear. I media blasted them with
glass beads and powder coated them with 40% gloss Black. I replaced the rubber
bushings and ended up with essentially a new pair of shocks. Of course we won't
talk about what crap these stock shocks were.

Shock and airbox hardware cleaned and polished before Cadmium plating.


Restored shock dampers

Finished shocks

Shocks installed

The fuel tank was next. As I said, it had a couple of nice dents and was poorly painted.
I stripped the paint and used a secret method to pop the dents. I spent some time
prepping, blocking, priming over and over until I had it just right. PPG color matched
the Tahitian Red in one of their new water based paints and I sprayed on several coats
of color and one coat of clear. I found a NOS fuel cap and restored the petcock, then
applied NOS Honda decals to the tank.

Tank after paint

Restored petcock

Tank with decals, NOS mounting rubber/collars and fuel cap.

I'll wrap it up here. Next will be the motor build.

dogger
2
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anniebertmojo
Posts
722
Joined
10/12/2008
Location
California, CA US
11/23/2010 11:29am
Great article.... keep it going. Personally I love seeing this stuff.

Thanks...
mosslander
Posts
736
Joined
2/1/2009
Location
Travad SE
11/23/2010 12:39pm
It's good to see some love for an historic dirt sprayer getting reborn,
many tank's.
oldmxracer
Posts
43
Joined
6/29/2009
Location
Benton, IL US
11/23/2010 1:24pm Edited Date/Time 11/23/2010 1:38pm
Good to see you here dogger.....Let it rip.

The Shop

newmann
Posts
24444
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
US
11/23/2010 2:53pm
And they accused me of being "Type A".Smile Good stuff dogger, bring on the rest.
prillernut
Posts
668
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Chapel Hill, NC US
11/23/2010 3:07pm
sweet! that is one beautiful bike!

very nice, like they said, keep 'em comin' Smile
Mini Elsinore
Posts
1968
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
Huntington Beach, CA US
11/23/2010 3:09pm
Slap "102" on those number plates and you will be done!! Nice find!
tydog
Posts
940
Joined
8/26/2007
Location
Monticello, GA US
11/23/2010 3:19pm
Very nice work Mr. Dogger and great attention to detail. That reminds me of Mr. Newmann and his paint guns!
At what point did you decide to make it a dust collector? Just curious because I almost made my Fox RM 370 a garage queen. ALMOST
yzvet426
Posts
862
Joined
5/12/2008
Location
Lake Zurich, IL US
11/23/2010 8:10pm
Amazing work you should be damn proud. I'm jealous. I'd kill to have 1/2 that patience
TerryK
Posts
9899
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
CA
11/24/2010 6:10pm Edited Date/Time 11/24/2010 6:11pm
Wow...just wow. My dream bike....again 31 years later. Need to find one! Amazing job sir!
lostboy819
Posts
11516
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Somewhere, CO US
Fantasy
1342nd
11/26/2010 11:32pm
I thought I did a nice job on my restorations but you and Newman take these things to another level. Very nice job.
elsinor79
Posts
1
Joined
6/5/2016
Location
Roscommon, MI US
6/5/2016 6:37pm
dogger315 wrote:
For anyone interested, this is a series of post chronicling the frame up restoration of a 1979 Honda CR250 "Red Rocket". [IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/dogger315/79CR250RLH.jpg[/IMG] Here is the bike...
For anyone interested, this is a series of post chronicling the frame up
restoration of a 1979 Honda CR250 "Red Rocket".

Here is the bike I started with. I won it on an Ebay auction advertised as a recent
restoration. I could tell from the Ebay pictures it was no where near restored, but
I thought it would make for a decent start.

I started by disassembling the bike and inspecting everything. The engine ran, but
the clutch was locked up. Both rims were dented and ruined, the tank, pipe and
silencers had several large dents, the plastic had been rattle can painted as had
the frame and engine. The suspension was sacked, sprockets hooked. It was
about what you expect from a half baked restoration attempt.

Before I started this project, I had to decide if I was building a rider or a dust collector.
I also decided to restore rather than replace everything possible, and finally, I was
determined to keep the bike as 100% OE as I could.

Here is the frame right out of the curing oven. I soda blasted it to get rid of the
cheasy paint and rust. I commisioned one of the big powder manufacturers to
produce a powder color match for Tahtian Red since nobody made that exact
color.

Frame with swingarm

Next up were the shocks. After a lot of searching, I found two dampers that still had
their charge. I restored the bodies and polished the chrome shafts. The hardware
was sent out for Cadmium plating in the original Gold chromate color. I located a
couple of NOS springs that were a mess from shelf wear. I media blasted them with
glass beads and powder coated them with 40% gloss Black. I replaced the rubber
bushings and ended up with essentially a new pair of shocks. Of course we won't
talk about what crap these stock shocks were.

Shock and airbox hardware cleaned and polished before Cadmium plating.


Restored shock dampers

Finished shocks

Shocks installed

The fuel tank was next. As I said, it had a couple of nice dents and was poorly painted.
I stripped the paint and used a secret method to pop the dents. I spent some time
prepping, blocking, priming over and over until I had it just right. PPG color matched
the Tahitian Red in one of their new water based paints and I sprayed on several coats
of color and one coat of clear. I found a NOS fuel cap and restored the petcock, then
applied NOS Honda decals to the tank.

Tank after paint

Restored petcock

Tank with decals, NOS mounting rubber/collars and fuel cap.

I'll wrap it up here. Next will be the motor build.

dogger
Hello, very nice job, I just purchased a 79 250cr, the Fram is being coated now, could you share your ideas on the gas tank, mine has some larger dents.
Thanks
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
6/5/2016 8:30pm
elsinor79 wrote:
Hello, very nice job, I just purchased a 79 250cr, the Fram is being coated now, could you share your ideas on the gas tank, mine...
Hello, very nice job, I just purchased a 79 250cr, the Fram is being coated now, could you share your ideas on the gas tank, mine has some larger dents.
Thanks
The best way to proceed depends on the size, depth and severity of the dents. I used compressed air on my 79 tank. This technique will
work, but you have to set up a jig to prevent the saddle from expanding. I used two pieces of dom tubing stacked and placed in the
saddle during the process. Once the dents pop out, you'll need to use other techniques to render the surface completely smooth.

By the way, I'm selling most of my restos including this 79 in case anybody wants a turn key showroom Red Rocket.
BS261
Posts
132
Joined
11/4/2015
Location
Rochester, NY US
6/6/2016 2:11am
Like others have said, amazing work.
FreshTopEnd
Posts
12476
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Sacramento, CA US
Fantasy
4254th
6/9/2016 2:36pm
dogger315 wrote:
The best way to proceed depends on the size, depth and severity of the dents. I used compressed air on my 79 tank. This technique will...
The best way to proceed depends on the size, depth and severity of the dents. I used compressed air on my 79 tank. This technique will
work, but you have to set up a jig to prevent the saddle from expanding. I used two pieces of dom tubing stacked and placed in the
saddle during the process. Once the dents pop out, you'll need to use other techniques to render the surface completely smooth.

By the way, I'm selling most of my restos including this 79 in case anybody wants a turn key showroom Red Rocket.
Wow, Don, does "resto's" include the 500? Cheerful The others are a mid 90's 250, 73/4 Elsinore, and 87, right?
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
6/9/2016 4:03pm
Wow, Don, does "resto's" include the 500? Cheerful The others are a mid 90's 250, 73/4 Elsinore, and 87, right?
Yes, including the 500. The others are a 93 CR250, and the 09 CR250. The 87 is already sold and I'm not
selling my Elsie. I also have several A kits left with one on hold. I started with six so they appear to be in
demand. I'm parting the two "AFs". Not to many MXers have the bucks to buy the whole bike.

Thanks for the kudos BS261.
8/9/2018 4:43am
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
newmann
Posts
24444
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
US
8/9/2018 6:01am
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
Are you wanting an aerosol or are you planning on painting them with automotive paint? I've done the aerosol route by grabbing a can of Dupli- Color from Auto Zone. They had one on the shelf that was pretty much on the money. Of course it also helps to mix your own paint in house. I have several hundred gray and black metallic color chip cards to choose from any time I need and can mix it by the ounce. Check out your local auto paint supplier if you plan to go that route. Be warned, it can get expensive as they may not be willing to mix less than a pint. Then you will need everything else to go along with it.
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
8/9/2018 7:51am
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
I didn't paint them. The bars that came with the bike were not OE and managed to get tweaked when the bike "jumped" off the table one time during the restoration.

I replaced them with a NOS pair I managed to find. The color is Black and the gloss level is a mix between satin and semi gloss. They are also a shade lighter than the black on the triple clamps. The new bars had the correct "430" part number for the 78-79 and no paint under the throttle tube.

The closest part I can think of that you might still access to use for a paint match, would be an early 90s CR clutch or brake lever.
newmann
Posts
24444
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
US
8/9/2018 8:19am
The metallic ones I matched were the one's on Lackeys 78 RC500. Not a stocker. I'll look at my RC at home and see if they are solid black or the dark gray metallic.
8/9/2018 1:05pm Edited Date/Time 8/9/2018 1:08pm
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
dogger315 wrote:
I didn't paint them. The bars that came with the bike were not OE and managed to get tweaked when the bike "jumped" off the table...
I didn't paint them. The bars that came with the bike were not OE and managed to get tweaked when the bike "jumped" off the table one time during the restoration.

I replaced them with a NOS pair I managed to find. The color is Black and the gloss level is a mix between satin and semi gloss. They are also a shade lighter than the black on the triple clamps. The new bars had the correct "430" part number for the 78-79 and no paint under the throttle tube.

The closest part I can think of that you might still access to use for a paint match, would be an early 90s CR clutch or brake lever.
Thx Dogger.. my bike has the original bars on them and they are straight as an arrow and in excellent condition, just a few marks where someone had attached metal hooks for tie downs. These bars are definitely not black.. they are a dark grey.

Also.. they are unpainted under the throttle tube.
8/9/2018 1:06pm
newmann wrote:
The metallic ones I matched were the one's on Lackeys 78 RC500. Not a stocker. I'll look at my RC at home and see if they...
The metallic ones I matched were the one's on Lackeys 78 RC500. Not a stocker. I'll look at my RC at home and see if they are solid black or the dark gray metallic.
Thanks Joe.
8/9/2018 10:21pm
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
newmann wrote:
Are you wanting an aerosol or are you planning on painting them with automotive paint? I've done the aerosol route by grabbing a can of Dupli-...
Are you wanting an aerosol or are you planning on painting them with automotive paint? I've done the aerosol route by grabbing a can of Dupli- Color from Auto Zone. They had one on the shelf that was pretty much on the money. Of course it also helps to mix your own paint in house. I have several hundred gray and black metallic color chip cards to choose from any time I need and can mix it by the ounce. Check out your local auto paint supplier if you plan to go that route. Be warned, it can get expensive as they may not be willing to mix less than a pint. Then you will need everything else to go along with it.
I am not painting in the whole bike just parts such as the cylinder, countershaft sprocket and swingarm so was looking at rattle cans first. I have 4 brands of Tahitian red, RAL 3020, and another 6 types of red that people claimed was close to the original color.. I tested them all and none is a great color match. Not only am I trying to avoid painting too many parts, I want to preserve as much of the original paint/ color as possible. If I don't find a reasonable match I will leave it, warts and all, and just polish the original paint as much as possible. I will do a detailed write up in my build thread soon on what I learned about the readily available paint colors for the frame and engine to help the next guy. The Color Rite Tahitian red is so far off the original color, it isn't funny. Many restorations that I see, while they look great, are off the original color. I am also now convinced that the frame and engine colors are not the same.
oldsocalmxr
Posts
135
Joined
2/5/2014
Location
Siloam Springs, AR US
8/10/2018 7:23am
Dogger, did you find a good color paint for the OEM handlebars? Looks to be like a dark metallic grey.

mike
newmann wrote:
Are you wanting an aerosol or are you planning on painting them with automotive paint? I've done the aerosol route by grabbing a can of Dupli-...
Are you wanting an aerosol or are you planning on painting them with automotive paint? I've done the aerosol route by grabbing a can of Dupli- Color from Auto Zone. They had one on the shelf that was pretty much on the money. Of course it also helps to mix your own paint in house. I have several hundred gray and black metallic color chip cards to choose from any time I need and can mix it by the ounce. Check out your local auto paint supplier if you plan to go that route. Be warned, it can get expensive as they may not be willing to mix less than a pint. Then you will need everything else to go along with it.
I am not painting in the whole bike just parts such as the cylinder, countershaft sprocket and swingarm so was looking at rattle cans first. I...
I am not painting in the whole bike just parts such as the cylinder, countershaft sprocket and swingarm so was looking at rattle cans first. I have 4 brands of Tahitian red, RAL 3020, and another 6 types of red that people claimed was close to the original color.. I tested them all and none is a great color match. Not only am I trying to avoid painting too many parts, I want to preserve as much of the original paint/ color as possible. If I don't find a reasonable match I will leave it, warts and all, and just polish the original paint as much as possible. I will do a detailed write up in my build thread soon on what I learned about the readily available paint colors for the frame and engine to help the next guy. The Color Rite Tahitian red is so far off the original color, it isn't funny. Many restorations that I see, while they look great, are off the original color. I am also now convinced that the frame and engine colors are not the same.
I'm doing a '78 at the moment..... had the frame powder coated with RAL3020. Had the tank professionally done using the same code...... tank looks fantastic, but there is a slight variation in color even though the codes are the same. Difficult to have the fenders, tank, side panels, frame, and engine "match". Mine started off to be a rider/racer, then ended up with too much $$ in it to race. So it looks to be a shop ornament.......Wink
8/11/2018 5:12pm Edited Date/Time 8/11/2018 5:17pm
I have bought 11-12 different paints to try and get the closest to the existing color as I am not painting the whole bike. Of all the brands/ colors, The VMX Racing Tahitian red and the RAL 3020 (Traffic Red) are definitely the closest matches. The RAL 3020 is very slightly darker with a little more red than the original Tahitian red. VMX Racing is the best match, but still not exact. Even though engine heat does darken the engine color, I believe that it is not the same paint as the frame color. I have decided to use the VMX Tahitian read to touch up the frame and paint the swing arm and the slightly darker RAL 3020 to touch up the engine and paint the cylinder head
newmann
Posts
24444
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
US
8/11/2018 7:17pm
One of the problems with matching the Tahitian Red is that most people have used aftermarket VMX plastics to match to. It's more red in color while the original is more orange, with a tendency to lean a little to a burnt orange in comparison. The engine color of course requires a flattening base which in itself takes a bit of tinkering to get right.
neverwas
Posts
2579
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
Tucson, AZ US
Fantasy
740th
8/15/2018 4:27pm
Spectacular job! Brings back some very cool memories. Love these threads!
BogMasterR
Posts
227
Joined
2/24/2010
Location
Marysville, WA US
8/20/2018 1:39am

Beautiful example of that particular bike,nicely done!
oldsocalmxr
Posts
135
Joined
2/5/2014
Location
Siloam Springs, AR US
8/20/2018 9:46am
Am about 80% done with this one..... as I said, a close inspection will reveal several flavors of Tahitian Red. As it's not a museum restoration, I took a few "liberties"......
dogger315
Posts
309
Joined
11/22/2010
Location
CA US
8/20/2018 12:27pm
Good to see this old thread revived.

Some observations on some of the comments:

While trying to perfectly match the colors on these bikes is a nice endeavor, it isn't necessary. When these bikes were brand new sitting on the Honda showroom floor, the plastic, frames and engines were all slightly different colors. Honda has never put a lot of effort in quality control for the paint on their dirt bikes. In 1979, your CR250 might be made in Japan or it might have been made in Marysville, OH. I remember seeing bikes from both plants side by side and they were noticeably different in color.

If color matching is important to you, I recommend color matching off of the plastic. If you have the original plastic, you should take that to a paint shop and have them custom match the color. If you are going to use aftermarket plastic like VMX, you're better off going with RAL 3020 as it is a dead ringer as newman pointed out. Also, paint matching powder coat using only a generic code is probelmatic as oldsocalmxr has discovered. There is a lot of quality control problems with powder ever since just about everyone has jumped into the business. If you choose to paint match powder, do the same as paint matching plastic. Take the powder coated part down to the paint shop and have it custom matched.

Finally, the main take away from doing these restos is to have fun and enjoy the process. Obsessing over the minutiae won't make that trip down memory lane any better.

Here are some pictures of my Red Rocket right after I finished it. The bike always took first place at the show and shines and made a bunch of people smile. I don't own it anymore as it is part of somebody's collection, a fitting place for an iconic bike:
















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