Posts
533
Joined
11/30/2010
Location
Marietta, GA
US
Edited Date/Time
8/18/2018 1:55pm
Taking the family on vacation last year we bought a 7'something foamie. It was a blast, but I had trouble with getting spit over the front, "pearling" i think they call it. Im very comfortable with the "pop" to stand, but then the wave just grabs the back of the board shoves it up and the nose plows in. Also, Im a strong pool swimmer (good lap times, flip turns etc) but I would get pulled backwards into the wave as I was trying to get some momentum going. Frustrating. I felt like with a shorter board maybe it wouldnt want to dig the nose is as often?
1) you are too far up on the board when paddling. On a 7' or so board, depending on your height, your feet should be right around the tail of the board or even slightly hanging off the end when you are on your belly paddling.
2) the wave itself is causing you to pearl which is very common for beginners. If you have the pop-up handled then you are ahead of the game. You mentioned you're a good swimmer so you should be a strong paddler. My guess is you are judging the wave wrong and trying to paddle in too late when the wave is steep and starting to break. Those soft tops are very thick and paddle well - allowing you to get into the wave early. Thats the whole advantage of bigger boards allowing you to get into the wave early with plenty of time to stand up.
My advice is to watch how the other more experienced surfers are doing it. Sit on the beach for 20 or so minutes before paddling out and study when people are standing up and how early they are paddling into the wave.
where are you surfing? sometimes the type of wave is the most important part. A slow, gently rolling wave like at a point or a long, gently sloping beach break are best. Beach breaks with steep drop offs that get deep are not good - waves jack up and are generally steeper and not good for beginners.
hope that helps, good luck!
The Shop
You might want to make a trip to Texas for a surf trip. The NLand pool is really easy for beginners, and the BSR pool also has a section for beginners. You will get plenty of waves at both locations.
5-10 years from now there will be amazing wave pools everywhere, so learn to surf now and you will be ripping in the pools they're building.
Soon as we got better we started to go to Sebastian inlet every weekend for more advanced waves. The waves used to barrel so good there and many pros were regulars there like Kelly Slater who dropped in on me many times. He is from Cocoa though. The beach changed but 1st peak used to get perfect backwash off the jetty and if you caught it right it would flare the pocket out and so fun. We used to leave the party Friday at 3am and sleep on beach in board bags and surf till Monday. Good times.
Sebastian is a beautiful place and I spent a huge amount of my young life there. Surfing, diving, fishing, clamming and camping also many times with my parents who loved it there too.
Paddling is critical, if you surf once or twice a year, it isn’t enough to get timing down. If you have a pool, tie your leash to a ladder, get on your board and paddle. It will teach you how to adjust the nose of the board when you need to raise it or lower it while paddling. Most people don’t have the balance down when learning.
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