Posts
311
Joined
3/25/2018
Location
CA
Edited Date/Time
8/30/2019 3:59am
I have never tried it but always wondered about it. I know it would be different than moto, like less intense. I mean if you fall down its just water, right?
I guess I just wonder if it is really hard to learn? I can just imagine being able to ride a wave for a long time would feel pretty sublime.
I guess I just wonder if it is really hard to learn? I can just imagine being able to ride a wave for a long time would feel pretty sublime.
https://youtu.be/WJuE8nQtv1w
Growing up on the far north coast of NSW with about 10 great waves within an hours drive or so, you pretty much had to surf haha
It can be less intense but you should never underestimate the sheer power of the ocean especially in bigger waves (anything bigger than 5-6 feet can get your attention) being held down (under water) is never fun and usually by the time you find your way to the surface there's another wave ready to clean you up haha.. and water, especially 'unbroken' water can be like cement..
Yes it's super hard to learn, well not so much to just stand up, but there's way more to it, like it takes time to just figure out how to paddle out and duckdive properly and shit.. and to do anything that someone would deem impressive it's super hard and really time consuming mainly cause almost every wave is different unless you're livin in a wave paradise like the Maldives or somewhere like that, where the waves can be more consistent..
But all that said a good day of surfing can be of the most amazing experiences a human can aah experience haha I definitely miss it
The Shop
Hardest part is learning to catch the wave itself and standing up on the drop in. Once your standing I find balance easy and turning no problems.
https://youtu.be/6-OMUbxVX-o
One of my favourites.
https://youtu.be/Gu5EwFJMc3E
https://youtu.be/riZQ2qvkIaE
https://youtu.be/uBSPkJ9YRE0
Edit: "The Wounded Seagull" comes from Newcastle (my home town)
https://youtu.be/P4Eo4CtaKWY
Like others have mentioned, just getting to the point where you can navigate the surf while paddling out in the ocean is a challenge. Then, once you can make it to the line up you'll have to learn the timing of catching waves, getting to your feet, and pumping down the line. This will be nearly impossible to learn at a good surf break with a crowd.
You need to find a mushy point break to practice paddling around and catching waves. Anyone should be able to surf "Waikiki" style on a longboard. If this is what you consider surfing then you shouldn't have a problem. But if you are wanting to surf high performance (hollow) waves on a short board it will take you 5-10 years to figure out if it's possible at all based on your coordination.
Surfing's popularity is also making it more difficult due to heavy crowds. 20 years ago I could go to Indonesia and find empty waves to surf with buddies. Nowadays it doesn't matter how far off the beaten path you go, you will always run into crowds unless you are very lucky. Just log onto surfline and watch the surf cams to see if conditions are good...it's that easy so when it gets good everyone is out there. Plus, everyone knows when a good swell will arrive.
Luckily, wave pools are just starting to sprout up. This will revolutionize surfing because you'll have a landlocked surf culture. You will also be able to buy your own waves if you want to pay the price. It will be like Counrty Club surfing soon. It's already happened with the Surf Ranch in Lemoore, Ca. They are renting the pool for 50K per day and they are booked solid. This won't be sustainable but they are raking it in while they can. Two new wave pools are also planned for Palm Springs. Soon they will be everywhere and it will become really easy to learn how to surf the perfect waves in the pools.
The best in the world surf it like this:
https://youtu.be/sUE8AntPJpo
https://youtu.be/p2-Qe2rOwT8
https://youtu.be/N1ohCihKN1M
Pit Row
https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/410943/its-on-day-7-of-the-tahiti…
Bullshit waves! Bullshit surfers! Bullshit arena! Epic day
I'm only just watching finals day now and just saw Owen's 10!
Been a while since we've seen 'true' chopes on the tour event! Good shit
Now onto the wave pool in September.
Sigh the wave pool... haha great technology would love it in my backyard but it's no place for a tour event haha
I hope lowers is all time that day
https://youtu.be/3oedoGT5V2c
Aside from all the skill and physical conditioning required, you have to learn about some aspects of how nature works. Tides, storms, seasons and such. When you really get into it, you begin to get the pulse of how the ocean works at the shoreline. Experienced surfers get to know which waves are worth paddling for and which are not. There is a lot to it but I really enjoyed collaborating with the natural world. Going along for the ride so to speak without changing or destroying anything. You have to play by the ocean's rules.
I can't work out how people survive wipeouts at places like Nazare and Teahupoo when it's monstrous
Post a reply to: Any surfers here?