riddle me this 2t owners

Just send the cylinder and head to eric gorr and have him port it for $220.....its cheaper than a pipe alone!!!!

After the first of the year Im getting my RM DIALED by him........its going to be a beast!

Dont bother porting. The KTMs are killer out of the box in that respect. Try the intelajet carb mod. That is a definite plus for improving top and over rev. Hopefully you wont have mismatched mods as the gnarly pipe is really designed to improve low end for off road guys.

What does the T stand for?

The problem is the Pipe. That is what the Gnarly does. Its a woods pipe.

Set the piston height flush with the top of the cylinder (usually use smaller base gaskets), and run an fmf fatty and shorty combo. THEN..... Find gas that doesn't contain Ethanol..... Boat gas from a marina usually isn't tainted like car gas. It has the same effect on combustion as race gas (longer burn). If you find 91 octane or higher without ethanol and have the deck height set you're good to go. The carb is nice.... But not a nessicity.

MxKing809 wrote:

Set the piston height flush with the top of the cylinder (usually use smaller base gaskets), and run an fmf fatty and shorty combo. THEN..... Find gas that doesn't contain Ethanol..... Boat gas from a marina usually isn't tainted like car gas. It has the same effect on combustion as race gas (longer burn). If you find 91 octane or higher without ethanol and have the deck height set you're good to go. The carb is nice.... But not a nessicity.

VP Leaded 110, C12 or MRX02. I've used both T4 & U4.4 in 2 strokes w/ success, too.

if you didn't buy the bike new make sure the wires for the hardest ignition curve are plugged in if they are not pluged in you will lose top end

T is for two stroke and F is for four stroke

Google "APT Smartcarb".

tomcat wrote:

T is for two stroke and F is for four stroke

Yea, but... then what is the 2 for?

The "t" actually stands for takt, which is german for stroke or revolution. You can have 2t or 4t.

wow, I have a 12 and the engine is pretty bad ass with just a PC silencer and proper jetting (RM 250 needle helps). I put in the softer powervalve spring for woods, seems to have better roll on response and doesn't break the rear wheel loose as much. My buddies 13 does seem to have a more linear power than my 12 though. Getting the suspension right is more important imho. I also bent the crap out of the taffy excel rims, they are not you normal excel's.

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What's the story on the Showa's up front there, yota? A-kit or did you source a pair and retro fit them? Looks beautiful.

I would like more over rev on my 13 as well. I am told by lots of people that the PC pipe will help the most with that. Going to get PC once I decide to throw down some money on that.

My buddies 2012 KTM 250SX had the FMF factory fatty full system. Not only did it look bitchin' but it ran excellent.

tomcat wrote:

T is for two stroke and F is for four stroke

Grizz wrote:

Yea, but... then what is the 2 for?

It means that it is second best to four strokes.

I haven't tried it yet but all the KTM folks rave about the ProCircuit Platinum 2 pipe.

Deck height, make sure you've got enough main jet, good fuel and go.

drop a 300 in that bitch and go with a heavier flywheel bro, you can thank me later

Grizz wrote:

Yea, but... then what is the 2 for?

Haha!

race250r wrote:

What's the story on the Showa's up front there, yota? A-kit or did you source a pair and retro fit them? Looks beautiful.

08 A kit I took off my 500AF. Bought them used in 2010 or 11.

Forget all about those american pipes and get a Doma og HGS system, much better!

Lightning78 wrote:

Just send the cylinder and head to eric gorr and have him port it for $220.....its cheaper than a pipe alone!!!!

After the first of the year Im getting my RM DIALED by him........its going to be a beast!

I wouldn't port a 250 unless you are racing the 250cc class only.

I have Eric's 295cc mid/top kit on my '10 YZ250. I'm very happy with it after a year of racing in the Vet B and Open B classes.

Consider getting a KTM 300cc jug and a PC Platinum pipe. That combo would give you more torque than a 250cc / Gnarly combo and more mid/top than the 250 with porting. From what I understand, the KTM 300 cylinder is a bolt-on deal for the 250SX.

The extra 45cc from the big-bore makes the perfect two stroke. You can run a smaller rear sprocket and it will still pull harder than a 250 out of corners. That means less clutch and less shifting.

peelout wrote:

drop a 300 in that bitch and go with a heavier flywheel bro, you can thank me later

I did the 300kit on my 13 250SX & that along with a straight 38mm Keihin carb & the PC XC 300 pipe with the 304 shorty & my bike is Fn animal!!. It's very important to set the cylinder & powervalve height correctly to get the most out of it especially on top. So in closing & do as Peelout says, drop the 300 kit in it that bitch & you'll thank us both later.

Grizz wrote:

What does the T stand for?

It's for people who don't know how to spell -stroke.

I sometimes try the search option first. Quite a bit of info here on the SX250's.