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I use Galfer lines.
Also, depending on what bike you have, you can go to a 270-280mm oversized rotor...if you just want MORE breaking. For the Baja 500-1000 we run Galfer Tsunami rotors (some riders run the std Galfer Wave rotors -Johnny Campbell)
First bleed the fresh fluid thru the system then with rotor out of the way pump the pads till they clamp a flat screwdriver between them. This makes it easy to pry them apart and push the piston all the way in.
Just be sure you dont pop them out. Fresh pads will touch each other without popping out a piston. Worn out pads may have enuff clearance to let a piston pop out.
When the pistons are all in bleed the fluid out you have pushed up the line. I use a tapered piece of wood wedged in the pads to hold them apart and keep the pistons pushed in.
Repeat that a few times . Just bleeding the line doesn't clean out the caliper which is the reason I cycle the pistons.
I always desired more braking power when I was on honda
in the first place. I mean, I know why (clearance issues) but I just someone would
get on it. I'm actually in the middle of fitting a Magura four piston caliper to the front
of my CRF. When I get it sorted it out, I'll post something.
Find a master cylinder, that when matched with your stock caliper produces the same hydraulic ratio as the Ride caliper and an 11mm master. The hydraulic ratio is key.
Pit Row
I'm no hydraulic engineer, but my understanding is that a larger piston moves more fluid for the same piston travel. So that's less leverage/power but shorter travel to apply the brake, and a firmer feel. Smaller piston gives more leverage/power but longer travel and a softer lever feel. However I guess it's also related to calliper piston size and quantity and of course disc size too.
But as I say, I'm no fluid dynamics guy so happy to be corrected.
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