Posts
4400
Joined
8/15/2006
Location
Fresno, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
1/21/2012 11:47am
I have used several models and have had the best luck with Polar brand but I get cornfused when looking at vast array of models to choose from.
I mainly use mine for cycling and moto but occassionally attempt to "run" as well. I don't mind if it does not have a cycling feature because I use a cyclocomputer on my bike for that (but I wouldn't mind if it does both). I like the idea of having a GPS to measure lap times when riding moto and an altimeter to measure climbs on the bike but it gets REALLY pricey. I'm not exactly training for the olympics here. lol. Any help you can provide is much appreciated.
I mainly use mine for cycling and moto but occassionally attempt to "run" as well. I don't mind if it does not have a cycling feature because I use a cyclocomputer on my bike for that (but I wouldn't mind if it does both). I like the idea of having a GPS to measure lap times when riding moto and an altimeter to measure climbs on the bike but it gets REALLY pricey. I'm not exactly training for the olympics here. lol. Any help you can provide is much appreciated.
Works great and inexpensive.
The Shop
My brother and dad also use Garmins and we all love 'em.
If you're at all serious about training or even just a fan of cool tech you should give a GPS HRM a try. Being able to keep an online profile where you can analyze all your training/progression is awesome.
You can monitor so much stuff... check it out...Garmin Connect
As far as downloading and reviewing the information it could not be easier. The 405 has a key for a USB port and it downloads to computer wireless. I do nothing more than take it off, put it on the charger and view the info on the computer when ever I want. As Skidsteer said, you need to check out Garmin Connect. The info you get is pretty cool and it does add fun to your workout regimen by being able to analyse and compare your effort and progress.
Anyway this faster rider beat me with more than 10 seconds per lap. I guess there's a downside to knowing the truth of lap times as well!
I don't know if all these settings are crucial, but you better have it set up the same to make sure.
Under "General", "data recording" chose "smart recording"
Set the sport to "bike" under "biking", and stick to that since some settings you do are related to the bike settings. If you want to jogg, you can do a diff setup. Then under the "bike settings" you choose mph/kph to see the fastest lap or average speed for each lap.
Then under "training", "training options", "auto lap" use "by position", and also "lap press only". If you choose lap press only you will get the lap times by first press start on the surface of the watch which starts the timer, then you go to the spot on the track where you want your lap times to be calculated, and it's very important that you chose a spot on the track that's isolated from another part of the track, because the watch finds your position with an estimate, and if you are passing close to this point going the opposite direction your lap times will be screwed up by the watch thinking you are doing a lap. Some guy at Garmin said the watch needs a 60 ft zone, but it feels a bit more accurate than that.
If you instead use "start and lap" under "auto lap" and also keep "by position" you lap spot will be calculated at the point where you press the "start button" on the surface of the watch. No need to press "lap" on the surface then. Some have it set up this way, I have it the other way because the next time I go out on the track I have noticed some issues. Before the next session I always reset the lap mark and time by holding down the lap button for 5 seconds, so yesterday when I rode I got 6 sessions with about 7-8 laps each were the first lap and last lap always get's toasted because of the lap settings. If you can press the lap just before the exit of the track (meaning you go almost a complete lap without pressing the lap button), the last lap will be ok, but since I always press the lap button entering the track which is further away from the exit, the last lap newer gets completed....
Anyway, you need to figure some things out for yourself, and there's a lot of questions unanswered but I think with the above settings and my instructions you should get some figures but you have to get a feel for it for yourself. Test it in the parking lot with the car maybe before testing on the track?
Good luck and let me know how it went.
Just attache the HR to wife etc and see how far you can go before loosing signal?
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