Posts
161
Joined
6/14/2014
Location
Northville, MI
US
Kkawi
5/1/2022 6:49am
5/1/2022 6:49am
Edited Date/Time
5/9/2022 10:32am
Just picked up a 22 YZ250F yesterday, I still gotta get a new helmet before I ride so I'm not going out today unfortunately. Just wondering what all do you check on a new bike when you get one from the dealer?
It looks like the air filter has no oil on it, if not just a small amount. My plan was to put a twin air filter in, change the oil (I don't trust dealers) and check all bolts, and spokes.
I know usually the pivot points don't have a lot of grease on them if any so I was gonna grease the shock linkage, axles, steering stem, and swing arm.
Unless that is overkill? And I just wanted to know what else I should be doing to keep this bike in the best race shape I can.
It looks like the air filter has no oil on it, if not just a small amount. My plan was to put a twin air filter in, change the oil (I don't trust dealers) and check all bolts, and spokes.
I know usually the pivot points don't have a lot of grease on them if any so I was gonna grease the shock linkage, axles, steering stem, and swing arm.
Unless that is overkill? And I just wanted to know what else I should be doing to keep this bike in the best race shape I can.
Still remember when the guy in front of me crashed his brains out and destroyed his brand new KX because the bars weren’t tight..
The Shop
Verify the torques of every major outter bolt I can think of. Its amazing how many times I've come across engine mount bolts that felt like they were just hand snugged with a T handle.
Check oil and coolant levels. Check the air filter, normally pretty dry.
I'll usually start riding it from there but I'll add PT Evo bars (KTM bend), ARC unbreakable levers, and PT pillow top grips asap.
Suspension I always have redone for my weight and ability but I'll usually put 20-30 hours on the stock suspension before I do any of that.
My last new Honda was okay, my last Yamaha was almost dry. Been on used bikes lately because I'm poor so everything is fucked anyway haha
BUT after I get a ride or two in, I wash it and as hard as it is to tear a new bike down, I go ahead and take the time to pull it apart and service all the bearing points!
Steering bearings top & bottom, the swing-arm and linkage, axles etc.
(I’ve seen the horror of a seized linkage bolt on a buddies bike (he isn’t exactly into maintenance!) and I never wanna go through that!)
Most of the bikes I’ve had new all the way back to the 80’s usually have about enough grease in them to keep them from rusting on the boat ride over if any at all, so I like to knock it out when the bike is brand new but whether you do it out of the box, a ride or two in or after one ride season is just a matter of personal preference, so long as it gets done when the bike is still “new”!
Congrats on the cool new bike and enjoy all the things that go along with a fresh rig!
I prefer to ride em, but I enjoy the time in the shop caring for them too!
Spending time in my little shop pulling maintenance on my bikes sure beats the heck out of sitting in front of the stupid TV listening to the shit show our world seems to be these days! 🤪😎👍
-Grease all pivots
-loctite on all 6mm thread bolts
-anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster bolts
-oil air filter and grease lip
-send radiators to icw for bracing
-set sag
-copious amounts of sc1
-fork/shock springs for weight and/or speed
-di electric grease on all connections
Optional:
-remove stock tires, plastics, seat cover, clutch cover, and chain and sprockets
-drill steering stem bolt and top clamp for safety wire
-paint marker bolts/nuts to check for movement
I wouldn't change that oil, it is break in oil (or it should be). I typically break it in around the yard for 30-45 minutes shifting through all the gears and what not then I change it. The dealer doesn't put oil in it so its not really a concern for me.
I greased
- steering bearings
- linkage
- shock bearings
- swingarm pivot
- chain roller bearing (yes, even this...)
- wheel bearings
- brake slider (don't know if this is the right word for this part cause I'm german. 😅)
They all needed it. Especially the steering bearing.
Anti seize
- every chassis steel bolt that is screwed into an aluminium part except the ones that need loctite.
Oil change after brake in and then after every five hours.
First suspension service after 8 hours.
Never used the stock air filter. Twin Air right away.
- remove all axles/pivot/steering stem/linkage/shock bolts, grease those items and their bearings. Like really pack it. Then set torque.
- spec torque all major chassis hardware (axles, pivot, linkage, engine mounts, subframe bolts, spokes, triple clamps, bar mounts, steering stem nut, exhaust system) - :edit: add sprockets, rotors and calipers to that list 👍
- T-handle check all plastics and small engine bolts
- stuff EVERY electrical connection with dielectric grease, including battery terminals
Other than set up the controls for your taste, that’s all that comes to mind 👍
I do it all before it sees dirt. No cleaning to do, everything comes apart really well. It only takes a few hours on a clean new bike.
You shouldn't need to do anything to it before riding it, no?
In the UK we dont get a specified 'set-up' fee. But it is said to be 'PDI'd'.
Our local Husqvarna dealer is quoting 14 days from purchase to getting it out of the door. which is ridiculous- id walk and take one I could push out the door today.
Pit Row
-Check oil level
-Check coolant
-Check every nut and bolt(fender bolts are first to come out)
-Check axle nuts
-Check all clickers to make sure they are set equally to stock settings
-Check clutch play
-Check chain adjusters
I wait 5-10 hours to get my suspension broken in to send it in to get setup and that’s when I go through and lube everything.
What happens after the first six pack and spliff is PornHub level stuff.
-Grease Swingarm, Linkage, Steering stem and other bolts that should get it
-Change oil
-Install battery tender
-Dielectric grease all connections.
-Oil air filter (I highly recommend you get the Twinair/GYTR/No Toil for a better sealing setup)
-Check torque specs on all bolts (engine mounts, subframe, etc.)
-Set suspension clickers and set sag (even though sag will change greatly after 1-5 hours of break in)
After that its just the usual stuff. I pull the OEM plastics off and put on aftermarket plastics and graphics. Keep the OEM for the day when I go to sell it.
If nothing else, it allows me to check everything. Over the years, I’ve seen some crazy stuff on bikes that were supposedly subjected to a PDI.
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