What do you do to a brand new bike before riding?

Tumic
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Tumic 5/6/2022 1:54am
5/6/2022 1:54am
Grease all the bearings in: linkage, swing arm and steering stem

Anti seaze: Spoke niples, chain adjuster bolts, triple clamp bolts and the shroud bolts if the tank has brass inserts in it.

Change the tubes to thicker ones.

This is my ”must do” list beside changing grips, bar, seat foam and pegs to prefered ones.

The spokes will hold their tension better when ”greased” and it’s way better to do it while the wheels are new than to do it after a couple of hours. Have bought used bikes where the spokes had started to seaze after just 10 hours.
mbw479
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mbw479 5/6/2022 2:31am
5/6/2022 2:31am
sandtrack315 wrote:
Swap out air filter for twin air powerflow kit. Check oil and coolant levels. Put on a good chain. Check the spokes. Set the sag.
If you get one of the Ktm’s the chains are good stock. Swingarm pivot bearings could use more grease the rest have been fine on my last 3. Just check air filter and fluids.
Top End
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Top End 5/6/2022 2:34am
5/6/2022 2:34am
I used to buy a new bike every year or two. I'd buy aftermarket plastics and install them along with doing the usual pre ride prep. I'd put the OEM plastic back on when I decided to sell the bike. My bikes always sold quickly and for a good price. I'm kind of surprised not one person has mentioned this.
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cwel11
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cwel11 5/7/2022 2:29pm
5/7/2022 2:29pm Edited Date/Time 5/7/2022 2:31pm
Just picked up a 22 FC350 yesterday. Started the process of removing plastic and suspension today. Missing the rubber grommet and bolt holding the fuel tank to the frame and exhaust springs between header and muffler. Next to no oil on the filter and very little grease on the linkage. And that’s only what I’ve found for now. My 21 was perfect. This kind of stuff is why you don’t just go ride em. People suck at their jobs.
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cwel11
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cwel11 5/8/2022 2:38am
5/8/2022 2:38am
Ok so weirdly enough the rubber grommet for the tank and the spring for the exhaust seem to be in short supply online. Backorded. Which now has me thinking (and maybe I’m waaay off here) are the factories low or out of certain parts as well? I’d hate to think Husky or any other manufacturer would ship out a bike knowing parts were missing. Or maybr my dealer had to rob some parts because someone needed them? Either way kinda sucks buying a brand new bike with missing parts. Calling dealer on Monday but I’ll probably have better luck searching online for parts.
cwel11
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cwel11 5/8/2022 4:52am
5/8/2022 4:52am
Ace Dudemeister wrote:
Did you post the required “Spoke To Wallet” topic?
No as it’s my opinion that a proper “spoke with my wallet” should only be for two strokes!
Ace Dudemeister 5/8/2022 12:06pm
5/8/2022 12:06pm Edited Date/Time 5/8/2022 12:06pm
Ace Dudemeister wrote:
Did you post the required “Spoke To Wallet” topic?
cwel11 wrote:
No as it’s my opinion that a proper “spoke with my wallet” should only be for two strokes!
In 1991 a 1990 KTM 300 broke me as a teenager so I agree with your comment.

Go ride.
soggy
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soggy 5/8/2022 8:36pm
5/8/2022 8:36pm
bh wrote:
Must Do's (imo): -Grease all pivots -loctite on all 6mm thread bolts -anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster...
Must Do's (imo):
-Grease all pivots
-loctite on all 6mm thread bolts
-anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster bolts
-oil air filter and grease lip
-send radiators to icw for bracing
-set sag
-copious amounts of sc1
-fork/shock springs for weight and/or speed
-di electric grease on all connections

Optional:
-remove stock tires, plastics, seat cover, clutch cover, and chain and sprockets
-drill steering stem bolt and top clamp for safety wire
-paint marker bolts/nuts to check for movement


I wouldn't change that oil, it is break in oil (or it should be). I typically break it in around the yard for 30-45 minutes shifting through all the gears and what not then I change it. The dealer doesn't put oil in it so its not really a concern for me.
What the heck is’ break in oil’?
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KurtJ99
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KurtJ99 5/8/2022 8:36pm
5/8/2022 8:36pm
quadzrulebro wrote:
The anti seize on the the chain adjuster bolts is a must do. I forgot about that when I put my list together. I had to...
The anti seize on the the chain adjuster bolts is a must do. I forgot about that when I put my list together. I had to drill a bolt out once, too. Never again.
This^^. Time and power washing will work it’s way into places and anti seize is really number highest priority after air filter oil. At least linkage bearings can be replaced if you don’t grease them. Frozen bolts and spokes are make you feel stupid when you can prevent it.
Ace Dudemeister 5/8/2022 10:05pm
5/8/2022 10:05pm
bh wrote:
Must Do's (imo): -Grease all pivots -loctite on all 6mm thread bolts -anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster...
Must Do's (imo):
-Grease all pivots
-loctite on all 6mm thread bolts
-anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster bolts
-oil air filter and grease lip
-send radiators to icw for bracing
-set sag
-copious amounts of sc1
-fork/shock springs for weight and/or speed
-di electric grease on all connections

Optional:
-remove stock tires, plastics, seat cover, clutch cover, and chain and sprockets
-drill steering stem bolt and top clamp for safety wire
-paint marker bolts/nuts to check for movement


I wouldn't change that oil, it is break in oil (or it should be). I typically break it in around the yard for 30-45 minutes shifting through all the gears and what not then I change it. The dealer doesn't put oil in it so its not really a concern for me.
soggy wrote:
What the heck is’ break in oil’?
Are you serious?
Sandusky26
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Sandusky26 5/8/2022 11:33pm
5/8/2022 11:33pm
bh wrote:
Must Do's (imo): -Grease all pivots -loctite on all 6mm thread bolts -anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster...
Must Do's (imo):
-Grease all pivots
-loctite on all 6mm thread bolts
-anti size on pinch bolts for the clamps and lug, and the chain adjuster bolts
-oil air filter and grease lip
-send radiators to icw for bracing
-set sag
-copious amounts of sc1
-fork/shock springs for weight and/or speed
-di electric grease on all connections

Optional:
-remove stock tires, plastics, seat cover, clutch cover, and chain and sprockets
-drill steering stem bolt and top clamp for safety wire
-paint marker bolts/nuts to check for movement


I wouldn't change that oil, it is break in oil (or it should be). I typically break it in around the yard for 30-45 minutes shifting through all the gears and what not then I change it. The dealer doesn't put oil in it so its not really a concern for me.
soggy wrote:
What the heck is’ break in oil’?
Rotella
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rohr397
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rohr397 5/9/2022 10:32am
5/9/2022 10:32am
I haven't had the luxury of buying many brand new bikes, but I did work at a dealer for a brief period of time. Bikes would come out of the crate, be assembled and checked for damage during shipping, and then rolled onto the showroom floor and sold as-is. On the rare occasion there wasn't enough work for the whole service department, a mechanic would be asked to pick out a bike to go through and grease/check bolts. A close friend of mine experienced something similar working in the service department of a dealership, but they would do some free work once a customer bought a bike if they complained about anything related to the "set-up" on the machine.

It really depends on the dealer, service department, and tech that put the bike together. Personally, I have yet to see any new bike with greased pivots, properly torqued bolts, or an air filter with enough oil on it. The safest bet is to assume the work hasn't been done and to go through it all right away. Plus, you'll be immediately familiar with how everything goes together and have the peace of mind that it's done right.

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